Three questions about using the throttle/turbos?

[purebe]

I'm driving a taurus sho 2015 non-pp. 

1. If I immediately go WOT from either a stop or a rolling start I get about 0.3-0.5 seconds of slowish acceleration followed by a few seconds of push you into your seat acceleration.  I assume that's because the turbos take that long to kick in.  Is it better to go easy on the throttle during the first half sec or just WOT all the way?

2. Is it "bad" (as in, confuse the ecu, "shock" the turbos, or something else) to WOT till you get to speed and then let off completely until you need to reapply to maintain speed?  Or should you WOT and then back off slowly as you get close to speed?

3. If I go WOT into a turn and then let off/possibly apply some brake, and then try to WOT again as I am leaving the turn, especially from a stop (some weird on ramp designs), it feels like I have no power at all for what feels like ever the second time I WOT.  Is this the nature of the turbos lagging or the doing of the ECU?  I know that might sound like a reckless thing to do on a public road but it's not as crazy as it sounds, it's usually like WOT from stop for 0.5-1.5 seconds, let off completely / light braking depending on the angle, and then WOT again until at highway speed.

I'm assuming, again because it's drive by wire, going WOT is just telling the computer I want to accelerate quickly and isn't really an issue, but I'm not sure how things work with turbos in the mix, because perhaps that kind of driving is just confusing it and giving me less power or disengaging the turbos or something.

Basically, beyond the simple "turbos turn exhaust into extra power" I have no idea how they work or how the ECU works around/with them.  I assume they probably take a few tenths of a second to "spool" up but again not really sure.

[AnotherGreenFusion]

The SHO owners will have more detail but you can't really "shock" the turbos that I am aware. You are correct that the ECU controls everything including the throttle. Your foot on the pedal is just requesting more power, the computer makes sure it is done correctly and will not allow the engine/trans to be damaged.

[SHOdded]

More than likely the PCM is protecting itself via torque management.  Hard to truly test this on a non-PP where they won't let you turn controls all the way off, but that is what I believe to be happening.  If you do this around a curve, it will only be worse.

So I'd say, par for the course for a stock tune.  An aftermarket tune could narrow or even eliminate those "gaps" you are experiencing.

The turbos are purposely a small size in order to facilitate very quick spoolup, I do not think that is an issue.  If you however have not warmed up the engine and trans prior to going WOT, I'd say you are inviting problems.  Also, absolutely run Top Tier fuel whenever you can.  Cheap fuel is a no-no with these engines.

[Vortech347]

Turbo's have lag. 

[purebe]

Ok thanks for the info.  Should I be concerned about damaging the PCM when I am tuned?  I don't think I've read about any failures so far, but I suppose it makes sense stock is playing on the safer end.

BTW, has anyone ever managed to get the non PP models to disable things like advantrack or whatever it is?  Entirely out of curiosity as these tires are expensive

I always let the engine warm up before I do more than 3-4k rpm, although I may not wait long enough (usually wait till around 2 minutes after the engine gauge has hit where it normally sits.)

@Vortech347: Yeah, but I'm curious as to how much lag?  I've read that there are systems that try to reduce the lag, although I'm not sure how they work, and perhaps they take time to "be ready" again or something, so maybe the best thing to do in the third scenario I posted would be to go as fast as I can without "engaging" the turbos (I don't even know if what I'm writing makes sense) and then going WOT after the turn, so that I don't have to wait for the turbos possibly?  I really don't know.

[SHOdded]

Yes, the PCM can be "bricked" when updating tunes, but this is fairly rare.  To avoid this happening to you:
a) choose a proven tuner for your vehicle
b) understand the instructions for installing a tune, and if you have questions, ask
c) make sure the vehicle's battery is solid condition before beginning the update process (worthwhile investing in a digital load tester like the Solar BA5/7 if really not sure)

The engine warms up pretty quickly, I am sure.  The trans warmup will depend much more on ambient temperatures.  In spring/summer/fall, not so much an issue.  Winter time, it can take 10 minutes or more to reach a good temperature (say 140F or more) in colder areas.  Your tuner may tell you not to go WOT in winter anyway LOL.

[AJP turbo]

Its a short response but i would get a tune and then make another assessment....there is a ridiculous amount of tq management and reductions at play in the stock tune in the name of smoothness and drivetrain preservation.

Turbo lag can be nonexistent in the sho...the turbos are tiny and are able to make 20 psi at 2000 rpm.

If you want more power its all in pedal position....more pedal more power with dbw cars

[purebe]

Thanks for the info's again.  Definitely excited about getting the tune, just gotta wait until I'm sure the transmission/etc aren't having issues (car is going in for service soon for jerking, fingers crossed it's nothing major.)

I wonder how much a tune reduces the life of the drivetrain, I guess it can't be too much or these forums would be full of exploded drivetrain posts by now

[StealBlueSho]

Thanks for the info's again.  Definitely excited about getting the tune, just gotta wait until I'm sure the transmission/etc aren't having issues (car is going in for service soon for jerking, fingers crossed it's nothing major.)

I wonder how much a tune reduces the life of the drivetrain, I guess it can't be too much or these forums would be full of exploded drivetrain posts by now

There a lot of guys on here that have been running tunes for a long time.... longevity is probably more reliant on how your drive your car... if you drive it like you stole it all the time its not going to last as long... if you drive it like old man rivers then it will probably last a long time...

plus you have the WTF factor... like a turbo going out.. trans dropping.. etc that all model cars have at some percentage that is just due to variance in build quality...

I don't think I have read anything about anyone being able to directly relate a standard tune to a major failure...

[salsathe4th]

I have heard some but their name is not welcome here. Just stick to trustworthy tuners and you'll be plenty happy!