• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

"How To" Replace HPFP.

Started by StealBlueSho, July 22, 2016, 10:07:57 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

StealBlueSho

Yup... sooo... couldn't find a thread that explained how to do this.. I googled(Maybe should have altavista'd? or Yahooed? dunno) and found one a VW... which is surprising similar or not so... but here ya go for a 2010 Taurus... I apologize if someone already did a write up....

You will need:

18MM Wrench
T45 Torx Bit or Socket
Flat Head Screw Driver
Smaller wrench to depress schrader valve.. or finger nail..
Eyeballs... hands... etc..
Maybe gloves if you are paranoid like me..

Turn the car off... sorry.. I work with really dumb people sometimes.. myself included..

Pop hood.. etc...

Remove the really spiffy SHO engine cover...

On a COLD engine disconnect the battery...

On the passenger side right right under the cowl there is a grey schrader valve cap... remove it.. It is circled in red... and yes.. thats a diaper under it to catch any gas coming out... most absorbent material known to man.. if you have kids... you understand...



Using a smaller wrench or a finger nail, depress the valve to release pressure...I recommend a wrench or philips head screw driver...

On bank 2 (which is the one close to the radiator) there is a silencer made of foam.. just pull it off with you hands (see required tools above.. and yes.. that includes you)...

You will see the HPFP sitting right under it...



Disconnect the wiring going to it by using a flat blade to lift the tab over the catch..

Loosen and slide the nut down holding the fuel line going to the fuel rail using the 18MMM wrench, its circled in green...

Using the 45T Torx bit/socket alternate loosing the screws on either side circled in red... this is spring loaded, so make sure you alternate sides... you do not want to damage it or cam shaft follower inside...

Once those screws are removed, lift the HPFP gently.. it should pop up, and you can rotate it a bit...

Circled in yellow is the quick disconnect fuel line, press the black tab into the line, you should feel or maybe hear a click.. then pull the HPFP away...

Set the HPFP to the side or toss it to the side.. I am assuming you are replacing it...

Using your fingers slide the cam shaft follower out.. it should be fairly easy. You are doing this for two reasons... to make sure the follower is not grooved and to make sure the cam shaft is
not grooved.





If they are then shame on you for not doing regular oil changes... but I digress...

Once checked, you can slide it back in, its keyed with a notch so you can't mess it up... align the notch with the dimple and you are good to go..



To install the new HPFP follow in reverse...

NOTE: The nut on the fuel line to the rails, start it before tightening to the fuel pump all the way.. it may not line up correctly otherwise... at least for me...

NOTE: There are two posts to help you alight the HPFP... this is where your eyes comes into play... and also short term memory... if you try to put it in upside.. you should not be tackling this project IMHO...




***Livernois Motorsports Firestorm HPFP Addendum****


Follow the above instructions to remove the stock HPFP...

The installation of the new pump is fairly simple, follow the instructions to install the HPFP as outlined in this HOW TO but with the following exceptions..

1: This is a two piece pump, so the base plate is help down using the stock T45 bolts. The actual pump is held down by the two allen screws on the stop. To screw the base plate down you will need to twist the stop portion of the pump so allow access to the screws.

2: Bend the HPFP outlet line out of the way but bending it up slightly.

3: Once the base plate has been screwed down, twist the pump back and drop the allen screws back into the top. This will lock the pump in place where it needs to be. Slowly tighten down the allen screws alternating back and for until its tight. This is a spring loaded pump so you will HAVE to alternate back and forth slowly... or you can damage the pump/screws/etc...

This video is for the XDI, but the install is very similar minus the replacement fuel line and pig tail
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqnewM691Fs

4: In the following picture is the silver high pressure fuel line. It will need to be bent it to align with the new outlet for the Firestorm pump. It wont need to be moved much, just a hair to get it to line up.




5: This picture illustrates the low pressure feed line, you just connect it to the low pressure inlet on the pump..




6: This part is a bit annoying and I mentioned to LMS that the pig tail connector to extend the stock connector should be included in this kit. But you will need to peel back the tape on the wiring harness that houses the electrical connector for the HPFP and pull the wiring out. This is needed to give you enough room to connect the plug. Do NOT run it over the HPFP as I had initially did, the pump gets too hot and will melt the wiring. 



SHOdded

#1
Great writeup!  You already replaced the LPFP, right?  Why the HPFP?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

StealBlueSho

Still seeing lower than I like rail pressure... this may not fix it... but based on the gummy crappy stuff caked into my old strainer on the LPFP... it wouldn't surprise me if my HPFP is weak as well. I am not 100% that the HPFP is at fault... just eliminating possible sources..

In all respect however, I do believe I might be jumping the gun with this.. we will see...

ZSHO

#3
Great write up indeed.. :thumb:....but the Diaper theory was some funny s*** though,lol :rofl2:  StealBlueSho Due update your signature accordingly,thanks.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

sholxgt

Current - 2019 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5 EB
Formerly -2013 MKS Ecoboost Premium
PPE Catted DP's, 170 Reische TS, K&N Drop In, AJP Tune only at track - 12.87@106

SHOdded

Quote from: StealBlueSho on July 22, 2016, 10:23:38 PM
it wouldn't surprise me if my HPFP is weak as well.
Might want to send it to Scott4957 for analysis :D  He pulled apart his methanol pump, maybe he can do a breakdown on this for us!
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

StealBlueSho

Good deal, I wouldn't mind.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


StealBlueSho

#7
Quote from: SHOdded on July 22, 2016, 10:18:12 PM
Great writeup!  You already replaced the LPFP, right?  Why the HPFP?

Sooo do you have an article that has the timing marks on a crank pulley? That shows where BDC for the cam lobe is?

I am curious as I did not set the BDC on mine.. being as it is a spring loaded mechanical pump that goes up and down to create pressure..and the cam lobe that the pump rides on is symmetrical..not sure what that would buy you? I am not an auto engineer however so maybe there is some timing I am unaware of?

My thought is that the new pumps comes with the spring fully extended.. and if the lobe is not BDC then you will have to compress the spring as you tighten it down which may damage it if you just try to tighten one side down at a time.

Finding BDC might just be an added step to decrease chances of damaging the spring/rod on the pump...and LIST PRICE on that little bugger is $432.. so much for my downpipes this month..

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

bpd1151

Nice write up btw.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: StealBlueSho on July 22, 2016, 10:23:38 PM
Still seeing lower than I like rail pressure... this may not fix it... but based on the gummy crappy stuff caked into my old strainer on the LPFP... it wouldn't surprise me if my HPFP is weak as well. I am not 100% that the HPFP is at fault... just eliminating possible sources..

In all respect however, I do believe I might be jumping the gun with this.. we will see...
What rail pressure are you seeing?

StealBlueSho

#11
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on July 23, 2016, 02:17:45 PM
Quote from: StealBlueSho on July 22, 2016, 10:23:38 PM
Still seeing lower than I like rail pressure... this may not fix it... but based on the gummy crappy stuff caked into my old strainer on the LPFP... it wouldn't surprise me if my HPFP is weak as well. I am not 100% that the HPFP is at fault... just eliminating possible sources..

In all respect however, I do believe I might be jumping the gun with this.. we will see...
What rail pressure are you seeing?

I saw it drop down to 800PSI underload consistently with a 3rd gear WOT pull... plus in first gear in WOT pressure would routinely drop to 1300 psi... sometimes 1250psi... pretty low.. and that is with ambient temps 70-80...

I have had fuel system problems since I started tuning this car... I have replaced the LPFP, FPDM, and now HPFP... injectors appear to be fine as I am holding AFR's... Preliminary data logging looks better... but its also 100F outside today... FML...

FoMoCoSHO

#12
Quote from: StealBlueSho on July 23, 2016, 02:45:34 PM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on July 23, 2016, 02:17:45 PM
Quote from: StealBlueSho on July 22, 2016, 10:23:38 PM
Still seeing lower than I like rail pressure... this may not fix it... but based on the gummy crappy stuff caked into my old strainer on the LPFP... it wouldn't surprise me if my HPFP is weak as well. I am not 100% that the HPFP is at fault... just eliminating possible sources..

In all respect however, I do believe I might be jumping the gun with this.. we will see...
What rail pressure are you seeing?

I saw it drop down to 800PSI underload consistently with a 3rd gear WOT pull... plus in first gear in WOT pressure would routinely drop to 1300 psi... sometimes 1250psi... pretty low.. and that is with ambient temps 70-80...

I have had fuel system problems since I started tuning this car... I have replaced the LPFP, FPDM, and now HPFP... injectors appear to be fine as I am holding AFR's... Preliminary data logging looks better... but its also 100F outside today... FML...
Have you considered that its the tune, not a hardware problem?

And yeah, you will hold AFR's at low pressure but I guarantee you're running a high pulsewidth and atomization is crap which can cause its own problems and completely defeats the purpose of DI.

I know that because I used to have low pressure on my hot corn tunes. Thought it was OK cause because the car held AFR but I also had random knock spikes which I found troubling. This is why I dug into lots of research on the fuel system and I didn't like what I found so I went a different direction.

I've been saying all along that the fuel system is plenty capable and luckily I found a tuner willing to listen to me and get to the bottom of the issue.

Now I have full fuel pressure at all times when commanded. No more anxiety watching commanded and actual fuel pressure go different directions. Now I'm getting the full benefits of the corn as well and it is really paying off, next stop E30!

StealBlueSho

PM'd you..

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


FoMoCoSHO