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Latest run logs, questions

Started by AnotherGreenFusion, July 18, 2016, 11:09:57 AM

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AnotherGreenFusion

So starting to learn to read these logs. Are there any decent primers out there on fuel trim, pressure and boost commanded relationships? What is important to look at here anyway?

Also I have been considering a T-Stat and possibly colder plugs. Is this even needed yet?

Best run is #6 for anyone kind enough to take a peek.
'15 Fusion SE 2.0 AWD
CP-E Cold Side, Hot Side, αIntake, QKspl DP & RMM | Boomba Can | Cordova TB | Synapse Gen III BOV | Levels FMIC | 160* T-Stat | Steeda STB, Sway | Flatout 5700 | SCT by Unleashed/LMS 93v11

PM me for AMSOil @ Cost

SHOdded

You can find plenty of tutorials on YouTube regarding these parameters.  Note that, per AJ, HOW these parameters are used are very different on the Ecoboost platform, so use the tutorials to gain a foundation.

Look up these channels:  ScannerDanner, DelphiAutoParts, TSTseminars, among others.  For general Ford repair info, FordTechMakuloco is a great channel, tho not yet heavily into the EB platform.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

FoMoCoSHO

Plugs-make sure they're gapped properly, I have no idea what that is on the Fusion, just ask your tuner.

As far as the heat range...probably another conversation to have with your tuner. You can have plugs that are too cold though

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/tech-talk/spark-plug-basics

Tstat-keeping things cooler is always good and I haven't heard of any issues with either the 160 or 170.

Fuel trims- In SCT when you're looking at fuel trims 1=0, anything over or below one is percent added or subtracted. 1.04 would equal 4% added. .96 would be 4% subtracted.

Fuel pressure- Less than 2K at WOT is not desirable. As fuel pressure drops atomization drops and as droplet size increases the fuels ability to absorb heat decreases as well which can hurt knock resistance especially as IAT's climb. Bigger droplets can also cause wall wetting which leads to hot spots in the cylinder and preignition. As FRP drops, injector pulsewidth increases which in turn keeps pressure from building in the rail.

Commanded vs actual boost- Look at commanded boost as max amount of boost available to hit your torque target. Due to environmental conditions you can see more or less boost needed to hit those targets. Hot temps will need more and colds temps less generally. Running hot spark can also result in less boost needed to hit that target as well

AnotherGreenFusion

Thanks for the starting points.

I worked with HPT a bit over 10 years ago now tuning GM NA and SC V6s so I remember much of the base stuff. Its what is special about the Ecoboost (like fuel rail pressure bounds, thanks for that) that I mainly need to understand.

I will spend some time reviewing the channels posted and looking at my logs, then I will likely have more basic questions.
'15 Fusion SE 2.0 AWD
CP-E Cold Side, Hot Side, αIntake, QKspl DP & RMM | Boomba Can | Cordova TB | Synapse Gen III BOV | Levels FMIC | 160* T-Stat | Steeda STB, Sway | Flatout 5700 | SCT by Unleashed/LMS 93v11

PM me for AMSOil @ Cost

SHOdded

Torque management is a key philosophy behind the way the Ecoboost is tuned.  Should also watch the wastegate duty cycle, should not hit 100% regularly.  Basically if you search for AJPturbo's tune-related posts on the forum, you can learn quite a bit.  From what I understand from your logs, all looks well, but what can be improved, IDK.

Some of the info regarding value ranges can be found in the OBD manuals put out by Motorcraft, so pick the one for your particular MY:
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/freeresources/obd
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/OBDSM1505.pdf
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

StealBlueSho

Yea, looking at the logs, it appears your are running pretty conservative spark advance but maxing out the turbo... 100% WGDC in short means you have either reached or surpassed the efficiency of that turbo... and being that your desired TIP PRS BOOST is so much higher than what you are actually getting I would suspect you are demanding more boost than that turbo is able to produce...

One thing I find interesting in that you are getting no readings from the knock sensor... like its flat-lined... I would expect some kind of reading from it... negative or positive.. not just 0 even when not in WOT...

Fuel pressure wise, it looks OK... combined LTFT and STFT's are at 1 which is good.. your rail pressure looks good too...

Your IAT2 is reading a constant -40 which is not correct... that should fluctuate as well...

On a 2.0 liter ecoboost I wouldn't know what exactly to look for besides the normal stuff... but I would say that tune is going to run your turbo really hot.. I would personally back off the boost a bit...




AnotherGreenFusion


Thanks for taking a look.

Got some of that fixed, Ford actually disables the Knock sensor stock. Apparently I have an F1 car! Torrie leaves it disabled so I am watching timing changes mainly which is not ideal IMO but don't have a bunch of options there ATM.


IAT2 is an option but reads no data on my car, instead i have a value for CAC temp that shows my charge air temps.


You are correct in that the turbo is pushed to its limit (as was the plan, big turbo next year), I could upgrade the actuator but I fear it would cause problems further down the line @24-25psi. I might still do it and back the boost down to 22psi as a consistent lower boost would be better than a peak at 25psi that drops off after a few hundred RPM.


Once I get the boost portion figured out and stable I plan to get more aggressive with the timing.
'15 Fusion SE 2.0 AWD
CP-E Cold Side, Hot Side, αIntake, QKspl DP & RMM | Boomba Can | Cordova TB | Synapse Gen III BOV | Levels FMIC | 160* T-Stat | Steeda STB, Sway | Flatout 5700 | SCT by Unleashed/LMS 93v11

PM me for AMSOil @ Cost