2010 SHO Suspension and Engine Ticks

[Wardog692]

I have a 2010 SHO with about 81,000 miles on it that I just got back in February. I have a 1 year powertrain warranty still on it from the Honda dealership I bought it from, so I can take it back there if necessary. I'm having a few separate issues that I hope are only minor.

First, when at idle and in park, my engine ticks kinda loudly. It sounds like valve tick, but I just wanted to see if this was a common issue/noise with these engines.

Second and more worryingly, is a ticking sound in my suspension. I noticed it while blasting up some mountain roads with the windows down. It seems speed related (i.e. faster the tires spin, faster the ticking noise), and I can only hear it when my wheels aren't straight. I can't particularly tell specifically what side it's coming from, so it might be both. I have no access to a lift, and can barely fit my head under the car to do a visual check, but I plan to do that when I get a chance. Honestly it could be something as simple as a stick stuck in the wheel or something, that's kinda what the noise sounds like.

Last but not least, my front suspension hisses when I hit speedbumps, and I'm not sure if that's normal (especially considering my rear suspension doesn't). I'm not a suspension expert by any means, so it could just be the normal sound of the struts, but I didn't think you were supposed to hear a distinct hiss each time the shock is put under load and released.

Thanks in advance for helping a young car guy learn more! I can try and provide more information if y'all have a specific question.

[sholxgt]

I would return the car to the way it was purchased and give the dealership a shot at diagnosing.  Here's my guesses...

1. Did you hear the tick at idle before the CAI?  The injection system in these cars is loud, so you may just be hearing it in operation more with the CAI.

2. Ticking sound that is speed related when the steering wheel is turned is usually a CV joint issue.  Best to have the dealer inspect.

3. Hissing when hitting speed bumps is likely the sound of the struts compressing.  Could be standard sound or may be a sign they are in need of replacement.  Have you noticed a deterioration in ride quality?

[ZSHO]

I think it will be best to post a video/audio of the noises your hearing,the front end could be your wheel hub's,stabilizer links,strut tower etc and hopefully the esp will cover the repair work and keep us updated.  Z

[SHOdded]

^  All great advice above.

If you want us to examine a sound you are hearing, Internet diagnosis prefers audio/video evidence if possible

1. That said, what oil/filter are you running?  Is the appearance cover off the engine?  Is the cover on the HPFP?  Those two items make regular ticking noises, the HPFP is much more annoying.  Nobody wants to hear cams, they prefer to hear exhaust

2. Axle and or wheel/hubs/bearings would also be my first guess.  Gen 4.1 had much less issues with wheel/hubs, so it might be axle/CV more likely.  However, could still be an AWD/PTU issue, so don't discount that.  Clicking can also be from strut mounts/bearings, esp. if you have lowering springs installed.

3. Struts go bad at various mileages.  If there are any signs of fluid leaks, there's the culprit.  You can also try the bumper bounce test, but I don't know how well that works on these cars.

[Wardog692]

Thank you all for your suggestions so far, I'll try to answer all questions.

sholxgt: I first noticed it as I was installing my CAI (just put it on Memorial Day Weekend), because I had the car running with the engine cover off and the hood open, but I believe it was occurring before the install as well. As for the struts, I don't think there has been a decrease in ride quality, then again I've only had the car since February. It does seem to ride a bit rougher than I was expecting for a full size car, but that may just be due to the sport suspension.

ZSHO & SHOdded: I'll try my best to get a video of the noises, the suspension ticking noise will be the most difficult, as I only can hear it when the sound reflects off of a solid surface like a wall or a mountain. I can't tell you exactly what oil/filter I'm running as I haven't changed it for the first time yet, so Honda dealership synthetic is about the best I can do. Both the engine cover and HPFP cover are still on, although taking them off makes it louder obviously. I have not checked or changed my PTU fluid, but I hope it's not that. I had an issue with the CV boots on my last car (Mazda 6) so I'll see if I can get under the car with a flashlight and have a look around for grease or fluid leaks from the struts.

All in all, I hope that I'm just being overly paranoid about my new car. I just want to make sure everything is right before I start tweaking too much. I'm thinking Unleashed tune, tstat, 3-bar sensor, and plugs soon

[SHOdded]

Check receipts to see what weight oil and what brand filter they are putting on, or ask them to show you next time.  These engines are very sensitive to oil flow, and having a Motorcraft filter in place minimizes startup rattles and other noises.  If they are not installing a quality filter, that would cause issues down the road.  And all synthetics are not created equal.  If they are using bulk bins, kinda hard to know.

But you are right, if you are not used to DI engines, the noise level will seem quite loud   Paranoia is good nonetheless, preparation never hurts!

[Crazyeights]

I was using the Mobile 1 oil filter and increasingly noticed a start up rattle. This last oil change I went with Motorcraft FL-500S filter and the rattle has ceased. I had remembered in a previous post that the the Motorcraft filter has a anti-drain back valve that prevents the oil from draining out of the filter. So for right now, there must be something to it.

[SHOdded]

The location of the ADBV is believed to be the secret of the MC filter, preventing dry starts.

[Wardog692]

I will definitely have to make sure of that on my next oil change which is coming up soon. If I just take it to a local mechanic, would I have to order my own filter and bring it to them, or can I just tell them ahead of time to use a motorcraft filter?

[sholxgt]

I find it safest to pick up the Motorcraft filter at Wal-mart and supply them the filter.  That way you don't have to wonder as much.

Other option would be to get it changed at a Ford dealer.  Many Ford dealers have Quick Lane's that operate independent of the dealers standard service department.  My local Quick Lane provides good service and has great specials.  They are price competitive with the Jiffy Lube type places, but I generally trust them more as many of their tech's are Ford Certified mechanics.

Edited to add...you could also use that as an opportunity to ask them if the motor sounds normal.

[ZSHO]

I noticed you only have the front bov vta based on your signature,not quite sure about any long term effects from it but definitely return everything back to stock.  Z

[SHOdded]

You can buy the Motorcraft filter online (RockAuto) in singles or 12 packs (!), or at larger auto stores like Advance Auto, AutoZone, O'Reilly's etc in addition to Wal-Mart.  Advance Auto often has coupons (check out retailmenot.com) that you can apply if you order online/pickup in store that will bring prices close to RockAuto or Wal-Mart.

[Wardog692]

It might take me 6 years to use 12 oil filters! I think I'll do that though, and while they're doing the oil change just have them check the suspension/shocks as the car is up in the air. Thanks y'all!

[BiGMaC]

The location of the ADBV is believed to be the secret of the MC filter, preventing dry starts.

The ADBV is why I stay with the MC oil filter.... Wonder how much, if anything, this has to do with the development of the dreaded startup rattle?