This was originally written up by
First SHOThis was his first post when he was engineering it:First of, these are in the experimental stage and before I offer up all details, I need to make sure these will work without failure as I had to change a few things from the units I purchased.
There were some bolt changes, spacers that I made and welding will need to be done for the installation. I am just showing the parts and temporary install as the welding will be done later this week.
I have not worked on the rear end links yet until the front is complete, so there may be modifications that need to be made from the photos shown.
I hope this works out good for us and will give more details later.
Front End Link
Traction Bar
Rear End Link
Front End Link Comparo
The front hole on the lower control arm is the location of the traction bar mount.
Front End Link Installed
Traction Bar Temp Install
This is his post with all the parts and items required to build the setup:OK, so here is my writeup.
Traction Bars
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=77&idcategory=21Must replace control arm bolt with ½-13 x 4" bolt. I used stainless.
Mount front helm joint with bushings to control arm first. Align traction bar attached to bracket for proper weld point and then weld bracket to frame. Adjust traction bar with suspension in the ride position. Do not over tighten.
Front End Links
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=81&idcategory=21Must replace bolts with
http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6774I also had to make some bushings for the strut mount and the sway-bar mount. I have extras, for those who take on the project.
Rear End Links – No Modification, just mount, adjust and tighten
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=85&idcategory=21Limit Straps – For use ONLY at the track and must be attached at the track.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/RA18114.html Straps
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC510050&Store_Code=PC&search=clevis&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high= Clevis
The clevis is the only thing you will use, as room will not allow the use of a pin with retainer. I made two new pins to be tack welded within the clevis. Purchase kit below and cut two pieces 3" long and heat wrap clevis to strap. Be sure to cover entire clevis. This will protect springs from rub damage.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202204318?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cpgi-hs-splice-kit-1%2F0&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202204318#.USjW0qX_SaoDrill out the upper hole to allow some play, about 5/8" as you want the strap to give when turning. Apply dip coat to the hole to minimize clevis thread damage.
Replace the factory lower strut bolt with a modified 10.9 M14 x 2.0 120 long
https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=11113742 The threads need to be ¾ longer, so you will need to take a thread die and do that yourself.
Use the same stock lock nut to secure bolt. Add a M14 x 2.0 nut for space, washer then limit strap, washer and new lock nut.
Bolt the lower limit strap into position, then feed the clevis through the new hole. Add harden washer and nut. At this time mount wheels and let rest on tires. Tighten nut until desired squat is achieved, then add second lock nut. Note, the clevis will have to be cut in order to shut the hood. You have 5/8" clearance from the top of the strut mount to the hood shock support. If you remove the hood shock support you have 1 5/8" clearance, so cut for your needs.
