December 09, 2018, 11:09:03 PM
collapse
collapse

Author Topic: "How-To" Rearrange Your Trunk Lid Badging / Emblems....  (Read 65334 times)

Offline bpd1151

  • RotM Winner
  • Elite Member
  • *
  • : SHOcago S/W 'Burbs
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 1872
  • -Received: 1665
  • Posts: 3258
  • SHOGAZM
"How-To" Rearrange Your Trunk Lid Badging / Emblems....
« on: July 05, 2013, 11:05:45 AM »
The following step-by-step "How-To" details the measurements I came up with to re-position the TAURUS trunk badge lettering.

I opted to perform this mod because I thought that the final outcome was more much complimentary to the SHO's overly large rear end.

You should compile the following tools to assist you in completing this project:

1 Grease "Stabilo" Type Pencil
1 X-acto knife / razor
1 Measuring Tape
1 Roll of Blue Painter's Masking Tape
1 Heat Gun (Hair Dryer Good Substitute)
1 Small Plastic Putty Knife
1 Bottle of Professional Grade Wax/Tar Remover
1 Bottle (of your choice) Rubbing Compound
1 Roll of 3M Automotive Grade Double Sided "Red Tape"


Here's some images of the above noted items:



I've always used a heat gun to warm up the adhesive on the emblems themselves to aid in removal.

Don't over cook them mind you by applying to much heat, but definitely warm them up.

I've always used a plastic putty knife to lift, dislodge, wiggle around and then remove each emblem.

I've heard others using fishing line, but I myself have never tried that.

Once your remove the emblem, there will be some leftover adhesive still stuck to the surface of the car.

This is where the wax/tar/adhesive remover works well. Using a small washcloth or what have you, dab or soak the cloth with the remover and apply it to the where the adhesive is at on the car. Wet it up pretty good (not dripping down the car mind you) but wet.

After letting the liquid break down the adhesive a little bit, start rubbing it off of the car. Turn your cloth as needed since the adhesive has a tendency of getting pretty gooey.

Repeat the process until ALL of the adhesive has been removed.

Inspect your clear coat for any fine scratches. If present, use the rubbing compound / scratch remover and buff them out.

Prior to re-installation of the letters / emblems, you must once again wipe down the entire area where you plan on placing the emblems with the wax/tar/adhesive remover. FAILURE to do so will inevitably cause your emblems to not adhere well.

If your asking yourself why would you apply wax/rubbing compound 1st, and then wipe it all off again prior to emblem reinstallation..... well, if you have minor surface scratches it will be a real PITA trying to manuever around each letter to buff them out, so it's just easier to do this step 1st while the trunk lid is free of all emblems.

As far as the measurements:

To locate the center line, 1st, I popped open the trunk lid and lifted it slightly. There is a small drain hole punched/formed into the underside of the trunk lid (toward's the bottom of the trunk lid). I then used this hole and the exact middle of the rear mounted camera (under the spoiler) as a guide to locate my center line/mark.

The total width of your emblem will be: 21.5"

Using the grease pencil to make all of your marks, 1st mark your center line.

Then, dividing the total width noted above in half (10 3/4") make secondary marks on either side of the center line, at 10 3/4".

To find the proper heigth for each letter, I followed the fold/crease in the bottom portion of the trunk lid itself.

I measured up from this crease, 2 1/8".

I noticed that this crease is not perfectly horizontal and that there's actually a slight upward curve to it as it relates to the over all width of the entire trunk lid. Weird huh?

All the more reason since it's a visual anomaly, to use that fold/crease line as your guide for your measurements.

Next, in order to line up each letter properly (since your expanding them considerably) I ran a strip of that blue painter's tape along the upper edge of the letters, using my 2 1/8" marks as a guide.

Doing this step will assure that you place each individual letter "level" in relation to the fold/crease line.

Next as far as the spacing between each letter, I 1st started with the 'T'. After placing the 'T' on the far left side, lined up with my far left mark, left of center, I then measured 2 3/8" from the FAR RIGHT EDGE of each letter, to the beginning FAR LEFT EDGE of the next letter.

I then placed the 'A', and the 'U' using these same marks of 2 3/8" apart.

Wanting to make sure my measurements were spot on, I then went to the far right side and placed the 'S' using the farthest most right hand mark.

I then began working my way from right to left, this time using the FAR LEFT EDGE of the 'S' and measuring 2 3/8" (to the left) and then placed the FAR RIGHT EDGE of the 'U'.

I then only had the 'R' left to place onto the trunk lid.

Again just as a means of double checking all of my measurements, I measured 2 3/8" to the right of the 1st letter 'U' and made a mark.

I then made a mark 2 3/8" to the left of the 2nd 'U'.

I then had my exact placement of the letter 'R' which I'll add was spot on as it relates to it's width.

Here is a picture of my measurements and letter placement, along with the tape and grease pencil marks.

If you notice the only letter that has two marks (on either side of it) is the letter 'R'. That was a result of me following the steps I detailed above to double check all of my measurements.



Once you've exposed the backing of the double sided tape and placed ALL of your letters, then remove the blue painter's tape, wipe off your grease pencil marks and re-wax your trunk lid using any commercial wax product of your choice.

I always use Meguiar's products.

I didn't explain how to apply the 3M double sided tape to the back of each letter, but I figured that would be self explanatory.

I did not "clean off" the back side of each letter, opting rather to leave on whatever factory applied adhesive was left on them after removing them from the car.

The X-acto knife is used to aid in cutting and trimming of the 3M tape that you apply to each letter.

I suppose some people will ask why not just go and buy a new set of letters from Ford, which I suppose some would prefer to do, however, that 5' roll of 3M tape only cost me like $7 w/ tax, so a far cry from what I'm sure Ford would be charging for a replacement set of letters don't ya think?

I hope this is of some help to those in the Taurus / SHO community that may be considering doing this, and/or some variation of this mod.

Kudos and please be sure to post pics and/or let me know how it worked out for those of you do actually do this.

If any of you have any other questions, feel free to ask away.

Mike :beer:

A couple of final pics of the finished look:

« Last Edit: November 15, 2017, 02:55:13 PM by ZSHO »


World's Highest AWHP SHO (Aug. 2014 - June 2016) & World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO to date! Details Here: http://www.dragtimes.com/Ford-Taurus-Timeslip-27985.html

Offline bpd1151

  • RotM Winner
  • Elite Member
  • *
  • : SHOcago S/W 'Burbs
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 1872
  • -Received: 1665
  • Posts: 3258
  • SHOGAZM
Re: "How-To" Rearrange Your Trunk Lid Badging / Emblems....
« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2013, 11:12:03 AM »
Since this original write up.....

I have chosen to whack off the "Ecoboost" emblem from the "SHO" lettering.

I also have opted to rattle can spray all of my letters in black, which required me to remove ALL of the lettering (yet again) and then subsequently reinstall them.

As of the Summer of 2013, this is how my trunk lid appears:


« Last Edit: November 15, 2017, 02:58:26 PM by ZSHO »


World's Highest AWHP SHO (Aug. 2014 - June 2016) & World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO to date! Details Here: http://www.dragtimes.com/Ford-Taurus-Timeslip-27985.html

Offline ZSHO

  • Forum Supporter
  • RotM Winner
  • Elite Member
  • *
  • : New York SHO
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 1104
  • -Received: 2556
  • Posts: 1733
  • Trap Speed of almost 116 mph.
Re: "How-To" Rearrange Your Trunk Lid Badging / Emblems....
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2017, 03:02:08 PM »
I must admit restoring these PB PICS manually one by one is certainly a Tall order as my patience is running thin,but as the days go by we should have the majority of the Main PICS of PB up and running soon.
FYI -if there are any PICS that need to be restored you can always feel free ask and will do our best to get it up and running in no time. TIA. Z  :)
« Last Edit: November 15, 2017, 03:13:02 PM by ZSHO »

2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|Airaid-Dry-flow-CAI|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Offline Macgyver

  • Sr. Member
  • : Reading, Pa.......
  • Thank You
  • -Given: 40
  • -Received: 154
  • Posts: 467
  • Ecobooster
Re: "How-To" Rearrange Your Trunk Lid Badging / Emblems....
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2017, 04:20:58 PM »
Nice how to.

I think I might just remove the TAURUS and Ecoboost and save myself a lot of work. Just relocate the SHO under the Ford.

 

* Featured Topics

* Recent Topics

Re: What have you done to your Ecoboosted vehicle today?
by SHOdded | Today at 10:50:04 PM
Proves there is room for old-school tech in these new tech cars yet.&n...
Re: Splash blending e85 to 93
by SHOdded | Today at 10:48:21 PM
Should be able to attach the logs to your posts also to get multiple s...
Re: Random thoughts for the day
by SHOdded | Today at 05:12:57 PM
Too bad, the 850 was a solid alternative.  You can get 720-750 CC...
Re: Livernois Firestorm HPFP Installed
by StealBlueSho | Today at 04:27:53 PM
Ok Thanks... Quite the price jump between the two.Yes there is... and ...
Re: H&R Springs,Motorcraft,Strut,Shocks Install!!
by 18SHO | Today at 10:12:29 AM
I have never been to Lebanon valley but we might cross paths one day! ...
Re: Stutter at WOT when cold.... Flashing CEL and Limp Mode...
by ToMang07 | December 08, 2018, 02:06:01 PM
What fuel setup are you running on stock vs tuned?I'm running sto...
Re: New to Tuner
by ZSHO | December 08, 2018, 09:46:12 AM
:alkashi: :alkashi:Not sure what that means.Sent from my Pixel 2 XL u...
Re: Battery charge?
by ZSHO | December 08, 2018, 08:53:19 AM
FWIW if your having issues with your Battery not holding a charge prop...
Re: Meguiars ultimate waterless wash/wax
by ToMang07 | December 08, 2018, 08:47:12 AM
The Meguiars spray wax I use beads the water like that. Bigger issue f...
Re: PTU Failing??
by sub_ETCS_ret | December 08, 2018, 08:05:15 AM
I'm hoping it's something simple as rust buildup around the ...
Re: LMS TouchScreen MyCalibrator PIDS List as 10/20/2018 *UPDATED
by StealBlueSho | December 08, 2018, 03:39:47 AM
I just want to see boost and temp gauges.Sent from my SM-G960U using T...
Re: Picked up a Tremor, lots of fun going to be happening soon
by SHOdded | December 07, 2018, 04:55:18 PM
Good things are worth the wait :D...
Re: Dyno
by FearlessAZ | December 07, 2018, 10:05:24 AM
Just google an AWD dyno in your area. There is usually at least a few ...
Re: Rock Auto Closeout
by Macgyver | December 06, 2018, 04:20:31 PM
Good reviews.https://www.amazon.com/CF11176-Fresh-Breeze-Filter-Hammer...
Re: BoostfoSHO 2015 SHO Build thread!
by BoostfoSHO | December 06, 2018, 09:24:03 AM
His email is tonyuep@aol.comSent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk...

Back to top