ACES IV - An effective octane booster and anti-wear additive?

[FoMoCoSHO]

Will be an interesting evolution to watch, FoMoCo!  Mid 12's or better without going to eth/meth would be nice

Mid 12's?

Don't forget I still have Catted DP's and Mike's boost actuated cutout to add to the mix that were never installed on the 13. (And possibly another item or 2  )

11.9999999999999

[SHOdded]

Whatever makes ya happy LOL!

[BND 370 Hemi]

Has anyone been able speak with LMS, L.E.T. and/or Unleashed and get their input? Would be awesome for if THE ecoboost tuners had something to say on this topic as well.

Since fuel delivery one of the biggest hinderances with these engine platform, a better fuel with more timing has to mean more power right? And IF that holds true, some of our cravings for more power can be addressed seemingly. If all of our tunes can be made to say run on an equivalent 96 octane fuel, that would seemingly add 10-25 hp? Im guessing but my 91 octane tune vs some you guys 93 octane fuel is yielding almost half second better track times and higher trap speeds.

I think the best case scenario, after reading 6 pages (and truly understanding a smaller portion of the big picture BND is very carefully laying out) is that this could take the place of meth.

You are correct that it can and should replace Methanol.  There really isn't any btu value to Methanol in that it has 65,000 btu per gallon, Ethanol at 87,500 btu per gallon while gasoline has 126,000 btu per gallon.  The cooling effect is what you are after with Methanol.  Being able to utilize the energy more effectively with greater expansion of gasses during combustion, the pressure wave acceleration will produce more effective power and torque while not only cooling it off with better potential to kinetic energy release but also copious lubricity that really will greatly increase the life of the rings and cylinder components in these engines!  Doing this without eating your bearings.....and everything else like corrosive Methanol!


Therefore, I doubt the tunes will be improved using any of the boosters (BND, is 'booster' the correct term since you explicitly stated ACES IV is not considered an additive).

I would term it a catalyst in function and reaction.  Think of additives like Elmers Glue and ACES IV more like Epoxy.  Once the reaction happens, it is going to harden up.  Same with ACES IV.  Once it is in the fuel it becomes part of it and then responds to the combustion as I stated earlier.

  Let me be clear- my opinion at this point is that the best we are looking at is a choice between installing a meth kit, or using ACES IV booster.  As far as tunes go, I would assume they would be the same as a typical meth setup. 

If this is the case, I think this is a pretty fantastic scenario.  The difference (I think) would be that you must use the booster at every fillup, where meth usage could be controlled.

Yes, you would use ACES IV in every tankful.  The real advantage here is that at worse case scenario, you will have your rings, bores and valves last significantly longer since they are clean, cooler, and copiously lubricated from burning ACES IV.  Not only no damage but serious reduction of wear....6 times less ring and bore wear, 4 times less stem and guide wear and 5 times less valve impact face and seat damage too.  Provides the opportunity to have integrity of the componentry much longer than what FORD would have designed into this platform.  The oil analysis also bares this out as well with little or no nickel in the sample from Jacks truck with 16,328 miles on it!

BND- Thank you for joining the site.

Your welcome. When I commit to a platform after being invited to do so, we bring all our expertise to the forefront to assist our customers in the best way possible....whether engine, transmission, PTU, differential, steering or coolant.....along with fuel.


  This product went from snakeoil that I disregarded when the post was originally made, to a set of products I am keeping on my radar.  You have piece-mailed throughout your posts what you would recommend for our cars, which is great info.  Could you flat out spell it out in one post that we can reference to better make a decision?   

Glad to hear that you have read what we wrote with an open mind and with interest.

Simply put, a combination of ACES IV in the fuel to control combustion and lubricate the cylinders and keep everything clean is the first leg of a 3 legged stool.

QuantumBlue Custom Blends for the engine to give more cushion between the parts, absorb more heat, maintain integrity of the design so that you can push it to the limit safely.  Leg 2

QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolants that evaporate heat up to 4 times faster with out sodium or sulfates that are just about as efficient as water yet has a -43 deg below freeze and a 286 degree boil over at 15 psi for upper end.  Leg 3

Put these together and you have the best chance to get rid of the dreaded heat in the intake manifold that is the bane of any turbo or supercharged car while protecting the systems as best as is possible with true custom designed and augmented materials that truly perform which are head and shoulders above anything else you can buy off the shelf.....period!

I hope this answers what you were asking.  ACES IV, QB Custom Blends, and QB Gold Coolant.....done!

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

[J-Will]

Just the response I was hoping for.  I am excited to see outcomes from the first adopters.  The ACES IV product seems the most appealing at this point in time for me, though I certainly do not mind swapping out oil and coolant. 

[BigPelo]

I bought ACES IV and ACES Diesel for the 3 cars, the SHO, the WRX and my wife's 2011 VW TDI. I will keep you inform of how it goes.

[Dxlnt1]

Since I was overdue for fluid change in truck, I ordered all oils for trans and both differentials in GMC Yukon and the ACES IV. My upcoming road trip will alow the ACES IV to show its head

[SHOdded]

Nice!  Best of luck with these products, Dxlint1, and have fun on the road trip!

[J-Will]

BND- what is the longevity and utility for your products in a vehicle that is not a daily driver, or performance oriented?  I have a 95 Mustang GT convertible that  only comes out a handful of times during the spring-fall weather.  It has 29k miles on it.  I currently use OEM products in it, though several years ago switched from using the Ford recommended blended oil to full synthetic. 

My thought is that anything that provides added lubricity is a good thing, however the products needs sticking power to be able to last without circulating throughout as frequently as most would prefer.  Cleaning the internal engine is less of a concern, but who would actually turn that down?  Though, using the product like ACES IV at every fill up might not be possible long term. 

I bring this up because a few years ago the transmission was acting up- having trouble shifting, the shifts were prolonged, stuttered, and overly harsh.  Took it to the mechanic, who advised a flush.  After a double flush, and some minor driving it was determined that the cause was torque converter chatter due to simply not allowing the fluids to circulate.  It was believed that gravity had pulled the fluids down, and without driving the vehicle to recirculate them, they stayed, going to waste until I started the car and drove it which while did start to circulate the fluid, was still catching up on lubricating everything.  I also got a quick lesson in how fluids work to absorb water regardless of if the car is running or not, and why all fluid changes are based on mileage and time duration.

That experience is now always in the back of my mind.  Sure I start the car more often during the off months now.  But anything that can assist in the long term protection is going to get my attention.  You mentioned that your oils surpass SAE standards.  I'd like to see if that is something I could take advantage of in a garage queen for the engine and trans.

[FoMoCoSHO]

I just spent a nice chunk of my kids inheritance on lubricants from top to bottom for the BBG!

[BiGMaC]

I just spent a nice chunk of my kids inheritance on lubricants from top to bottom for the BBG!

Looking forward to your review.

[glock-coma]

I just spent a nice chunk of my kids inheritance on lubricants from top to bottom for the BBG!

Looking forward to your review.

x2^^^^^^

[BND 370 Hemi]

Just the response I was hoping for.  I am excited to see outcomes from the first adopters.  The ACES IV product seems the most appealing at this point in time for me, though I certainly do not mind swapping out oil and coolant.

Glad to hear you agree with what we do.  Looking forward to working with you once you feel confident in our product offerings.  Doing the 3 legs of the stool .......gives the car palpable performance and increased durability.

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com 

[BND 370 Hemi]

BND- what is the longevity and utility for your products in a vehicle that is not a daily driver, or performance oriented?

Good question!!  I have 5 vehicles that I store and have for many years.  1969 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl, 1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z, 2000 Chrysler 300M 3.5L SOHC, 2006 Dodge Charger 6.1L SRT8 and a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan R/T.   These sit over the winter and even part of the summer as I spend most of my time providing materials for everyone else to use and drive.  The 06 Charger SRT8 I bought brand new and just turned 11,000 miles last Saturday.  The 69 Charger has really sat for 7 years but will start up and run and drive fine when I do take it out....just did last Friday/Saturday.   

Anyway, these materials we make are tailor made to the applications we are given.   Think of Lowes or Home Depot buying paint.  You go to them for a specific interior latex semi-gloss and you hand the paint guy a color swatch for the exact color you want paint for.  Once he makes that paint, it is your paint for your application and at this time.   We see our products in the same venue.  Not only what do you have, but what mods do you have, is it stock, how is it used and where does it live.  Is it driven every day or sit 6 to 9 months of the year.  Is it in the sands of Arizona or the salted streets of Cleveland.   Not only cast block, aluminum head, injected, but sits in the garage with still a relative humidity of 40%.   We have to add tackifiers, demulsifiers to keep water from damaging and emulsifying the oils.  When we make a lubricant it is good for at least 10k miles between changes or 2 years....whichever comes first.  This is the reason for the increased amount of zinc, phosphorous and calcium.  The magnesium detergents are diesel locomotive quality so that it will get clean and keep clean any engine it is put in.   This is what custom blended lubricants are all about.  Specifically for you and not trying to be everything to everyone everywhere all the time.  That is the definition of mediocrity! 

  I have a 95 Mustang GT convertible that  only comes out a handful of times during the spring-fall weather.  It has 29k miles on it.  I currently use OEM products in it, though several years ago switched from using the Ford recommended blended oil to full synthetic.

The bad thing about the Group IV oils is that their characteristics are very small molecule oils and tend to be aggressive on the seals as well as very bad at dropping their additive packages in the pans. This is accentuated by long term storage where they never whip back up into the oil and end up being gummy and sticky....not a good characteristic for storing a car!  We go an opposite direction in not using any PAO based oils at all and design our own larger molecule structure.....that is still synthetic but by mineral stocks and not condensed natural gas or GTL!

With what you have there on the GT, it would do well with a 12.5w32 HP Competition Formula designed for your 5.0L HO engine.  I know it is supposed to have a 5w20 but you aren't driving the car in -47 degrees below 0 weather so a 12.5 is good for -7 below 0 but much better to 140 degrees ambient temperatures.  Also plenty of additives designed specifically for storage use.  Same can be done for steering system, transmission...AOD-E automatic, and the differential.  Remember these all have vents that bring in and expel atmosphere.  Designing them right up front cost a little more than off the shelf but contain significant protection that a price oil off the shelf just doesnt' have frankly!

My thought is that anything that provides added lubricity is a good thing, however the products needs sticking power to be able to last without circulating throughout as frequently as most would prefer.  Cleaning the internal engine is less of a concern, but who would actually turn that down?

Right. This is why we add tackifiers to the oils so that there are no dry starts and the compound have integrity so that no storage problems can occur.  You want the cleanliness and the purity to be tantamount in a storage car because they do not get circulated like an every day to and from work and weekend project vehicle.....like a minivan etc.  Design becomes significant to the health of the vehicle. 

Though, using the product like ACES IV at every fill up might not be possible long term.

Depends on what your goals are for the car.  I have 238,000 miles on my 2005 Grand Caravan SXT 3.8L (and was supposed to be run on 5w20...yet has been running a 12.5w35 for 11 years) and have used ACES IV in every tank of fuel over the last 11 years....bought it in 2004.
At 168,200 miles we broke an intake spring and an exhaust spring.  Had to pull the head and do a water test on the head.....not a single valve leaked water....and it should have been a sprinkling can by that many miles.  Van was put back together with new springs, valve locks and valve seals and is driven every day.  Doens't burn oil and gets 25 mpg on the highway still to this day.  With the ethanol fuels and no lubricity left as there is no sulfur either....starting and running your car with these fuels is detrimental.  Buying a gallon of ACES IV and using 15 gallons per week, a gallon would last you a year.  Is .74 cents per day worth 6 times less ring and bore wear, 4 times less stem and guide wear and 5 times less valve face and seat damage......I think so and 12,000 other customers agree with that so far.  Treated just at 5 billion gallons of fuel...(including diesel) and 100 million Miles + on our lubricants.  Presently we have a 99% reorder rate on ACES IV and a 98.7% reorder rate on everything else we do.

I bring this up because a few years ago the transmission was acting up- having trouble shifting, the shifts were prolonged, stuttered, and overly harsh.  Took it to the mechanic, who advised a flush.  After a double flush, and some minor driving it was determined that the cause was torque converter chatter due to simply not allowing the fluids to circulate.  It was believed that gravity had pulled the fluids down, and without driving the vehicle to recirculate them, they stayed, going to waste until I started the car and drove it which while did start to circulate the fluid, was still catching up on lubricating everything.  I also got a quick lesson in how fluids work to absorb water regardless of if the car is running or not, and why all fluid changes are based on mileage and time duration.

I have this discussion with people every week as they believe that going to a "synthetic" oil is somehow going to save them because they spent a little more for it and it is supposed to be better especially when they have heard stories of mineral oils damaging things in storage.  Both will damage a stored car if they do not contain the materials necessary for protection.  There is very little thought to longevity in an off the shelf oil because it is assumed they will do the 3,000 to 5,000 mile drain interval and or do it every 6 months.  Remember too that what you buy off the shelf at any local store or dealer comes from a distribution network. 

Manufacturer to wholesaler to sub-wholesaler to retailer to you.   So in this scenario...you buy a $7.80 quart of Mobil 1 that cost the retailer $4.68 (40% profit) that purchased it from their supplier (sub-wholesaler) which buys a single pallet of oil who makes 30% profit who paid $3.28 who got it from a wholesaler who makes 30% profit that paid $2.29 for that lubricant who bought it in truck loads from Mobil which had a total cost of $1.72.  So when the tribologist....like me is told to make the best lubricant you can BUT you need to do it for no more than $1.72.......Wrong way to make a lubricant and certainly not designed for any kind of time or storage in mind!!  But this is what I mean by a price oil.  Ending price point dictates what initial cost has to be.  This is why our lubricants are more expensive on the front end.  Because we have a much larger molecule structure, still synthetic, but with significantly more and better materials designed for a specific customer each and every time because our customer base demands performance in all aspects....not just a good price.  We have the best price if you consider not having to change out your engine oil on a stored car every 6 months and changing all the other fluids every 2 years.  How many people really change their differential, transmission and steering system fluids every 2 years while in storage!?   I still talk to people to this day that don't realize that they have to flush their brake fluid every 2 years or it will eventually come out of the calipers like mayonnaise.  Price is a one time thing but cost is a lifetime thing. 

That experience is now always in the back of my mind.  Sure I start the car more often during the off months now.  But anything that can assist in the long term protection is going to get my attention.

Depending on the situation, starting it every month or so....if it brings the temps above dew point and then is cooled down at or below dew point will actually promote MORE moisture retention than just leaving it sit and assimilate the ambient temps during storage.  We have to think of everything here to protect the vehicles we love so much. 


You mentioned that your oils surpass SAE standards.  I'd like to see if that is something I could take advantage of in a garage queen for the engine and trans.

Yes, they are much more robust in their design, contents and in performance.  Whether it is a fire breathing vehicle that you tear pavement with or just a nice factory vehicle you want to take care of, we take that into consideration and make a specific material for you....as you are a person living in a certain place and driving a specific vehicle and not just a number on an SAE chart!

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

[FoMoCoSHO]

I gave Brian my credit card number yesterday around 2, my order showed up on my doorstep at 1130 am today.

Thanks for the lightening fast service!

[SHOdded]

Let the games begin!