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How often is everyone swapping tranny fluid?

Started by Shonuff1140, May 24, 2015, 07:00:44 AM

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JDW1

Quote from: SHOdded on February 23, 2016, 02:45:48 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 01:34:26 PM
Are you guys removing the pan and swapping the filter as part of your DIY procedure? 
No pan and no filter per se in these transmissions.  You have to crack the case to get at the "permanent" screen.

I'll take that as a no, it's not done then.  I thought i read in the owners manual about a filter that was replaced as well tho. 
13 SHO, Unleashed 3bar Tune, 1 step cooler NGK's, MDesign CAI, 170 t-stat and meth.

pmezo33

Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 03:09:51 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on February 23, 2016, 02:45:48 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 01:34:26 PM
Are you guys removing the pan and swapping the filter as part of your DIY procedure? 
No pan and no filter per se in these transmissions.  You have to crack the case to get at the "permanent" screen.

I'll take that as a no, it's not done then.  I thought i read in the owners manual about a filter that was replaced as well tho.

You've got to drop and open up the transmission to remove the filter.  It's not serviceable.  Just keep the fluid fresh.  I like to do 3x drain and fills every 60k miles or so.

AJP turbo

Quote from: pmezo33 on February 23, 2016, 04:34:10 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 03:09:51 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on February 23, 2016, 02:45:48 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 01:34:26 PM
Are you guys removing the pan and swapping the filter as part of your DIY procedure? 
No pan and no filter per se in these transmissions.  You have to crack the case to get at the "permanent" screen.

I'll take that as a no, it's not done then.  I thought i read in the owners manual about a filter that was replaced as well tho.

You've got to drop and open up the transmission to remove the filter.  It's not serviceable.  Just keep the fluid fresh.  I like to do 3x drain and fills every 60k miles or so.

Ur wasting too much fluid...i would want to do that with the cost of amsoils signature fluid....just drain the fluid from pan, then refill, then open a tranny cooler line place it in bucket then start the car until 2-3 qts pump out....then refill again....and if more fluid from the converter and cooler needs to come out start the car again for a few seconds until the fliud is the color of new...then refill to the proper amount....no wasted fluid and the lines and converter are flushed and no mixing of old and new
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

JDW1

Quote from: ajpturbo on February 23, 2016, 04:54:53 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on February 23, 2016, 04:34:10 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 03:09:51 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on February 23, 2016, 02:45:48 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 01:34:26 PM
Are you guys removing the pan and swapping the filter as part of your DIY procedure? 
No pan and no filter per se in these transmissions.  You have to crack the case to get at the "permanent" screen.

I'll take that as a no, it's not done then.  I thought i read in the owners manual about a filter that was replaced as well tho.

You've got to drop and open up the transmission to remove the filter.  It's not serviceable.  Just keep the fluid fresh.  I like to do 3x drain and fills every 60k miles or so.

Ur wasting too much fluid...i would want to do that with the cost of amsoils signature fluid....just drain the fluid from pan, then refill, then open a tranny cooler line place it in bucket then start the car until 2-3 qts pump out....then refill again....and if more fluid from the converter and cooler needs to come out start the car again for a few seconds until the fliud is the color of new...then refill to the proper amount....no wasted fluid and the lines and converter are flushed and no mixing of old and new

What if you has non PP and no tranny cooler?
13 SHO, Unleashed 3bar Tune, 1 step cooler NGK's, MDesign CAI, 170 t-stat and meth.

AJP turbo

Then ur screwed lol....i dont know for sure but i think there has to be lines somewhere going to the built in cooler that is the radiator
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

SHOdded

3x drain and fill works fine for most people.  The other method mentioned by AJ does yield better results (more like a flush), but is a bit more complicated, and should only be attempted if you are clear about which line does what.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

FoMoCoSHO

I started last year with a fresh car. I'm just going to drain and fill every year. I'm sure it will be OK with the whole 6K I've put on the car this year.

66 Galaxie

Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 05:25:43 PM
Quote from: ajpturbo on February 23, 2016, 04:54:53 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on February 23, 2016, 04:34:10 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 03:09:51 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on February 23, 2016, 02:45:48 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 01:34:26 PM
Are you guys removing the pan and swapping the filter as part of your DIY procedure? 
No pan and no filter per se in these transmissions.  You have to crack the case to get at the "permanent" screen.

I'll take that as a no, it's not done then.  I thought i read in the owners manual about a filter that was replaced as well tho.

You've got to drop and open up the transmission to remove the filter.  It's not serviceable.  Just keep the fluid fresh.  I like to do 3x drain and fills every 60k miles or so.

Ur wasting too much fluid...i would want to do that with the cost of amsoils signature fluid....just drain the fluid from pan, then refill, then open a tranny cooler line place it in bucket then start the car until 2-3 qts pump out....then refill again....and if more fluid from the converter and cooler needs to come out start the car again for a few seconds until the fliud is the color of new...then refill to the proper amount....no wasted fluid and the lines and converter are flushed and no mixing of old and new

What if you has non PP and no tranny cooler?
Tranny cooler is top section of a/c condenser lines leave trans and connect on drivers side in front of the air filter box
'14 Flex Tuxedo Black ecoboost

66 Galaxie

Back to the OP, I'm doing it every 30k on my Flex EB.
'14 Flex Tuxedo Black ecoboost

Dxlnt1

Quote from: ajpturbo on February 23, 2016, 04:54:53 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on February 23, 2016, 04:34:10 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 03:09:51 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on February 23, 2016, 02:45:48 PM
Quote from: JDW1 on February 23, 2016, 01:34:26 PM
Are you guys removing the pan and swapping the filter as part of your DIY procedure? 
No pan and no filter per se in these transmissions.  You have to crack the case to get at the "permanent" screen.

I'll take that as a no, it's not done then.  I thought i read in the owners manual about a filter that was replaced as well tho.

You've got to drop and open up the transmission to remove the filter.  It's not serviceable.  Just keep the fluid fresh.  I like to do 3x drain and fills every 60k miles or so.

Ur wasting too much fluid...i would want to do that with the cost of amsoils signature fluid....just drain the fluid from pan, then refill, then open a tranny cooler line place it in bucket then start the car until 2-3 qts pump out....then refill again....and if more fluid from the converter and cooler needs to come out start the car again for a few seconds until the fliud is the color of new...then refill to the proper amount....no wasted fluid and the lines and converter are flushed and no mixing of old and new

Seems to me that almost ANY attempt to change trans oil is basically a waste of time and money. The bulk of the fluid lies in the converter and unless you drop the trans you don't get to the fluid in there. Those fluids spin faster for longer yet rarely fail. Even when using the "cheap" oem fluid.

That being said, I found a temperature chart....
http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm
Non PP cars run roughly 200 degrees. Per the chart, fluid change at roughly 80k miles. Factor in 160 thermostat that a lot of folks run, then the trans is also 5-10 degrees cooler.

But I do change my muffler bearings at EVERY oil change!
But for me, unless I have transmission problems I anticipate that I will NOT be adding fluid for the sake of draining it out when no real benefit. Unless I was switching to a synthetic or sort fancy hybrid blend. (ACES)
2011 SHO, 3 Bar, AJP Turbo-Tune, ACES IV, Boostane 170 T-stat, PPE Catted DP's, Alpine Sound system, Touch screen HVAC controls, full window tint

AJP turbo

#25
Thats why you start the car and pump the fluid out through the cooler lines...converter cleared ...simple...damn dx, u would wait for there to be a problem before you change the trans fluid?
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

Dxlnt1

Most transmissions from away back did not fail due to fluid failure. But lack of fluid circulation. i.e. dirty filter, valve body and lack of fluid. If you use the newer synthetic fluids, generally speaking you don't need to change the fluid for 100k miles or so. The same used to hold true with rear differentials. 100k miles before oil recommended for change out. Just my two cents. Not into un necessary maintenance for the sake of putting a wrench on something. If I was leaking fluid or was having problems then definitely look into more maintenance. Otherwise, I let it ride!
2011 SHO, 3 Bar, AJP Turbo-Tune, ACES IV, Boostane 170 T-stat, PPE Catted DP's, Alpine Sound system, Touch screen HVAC controls, full window tint