3 bar, tstat guys-- How's your driveability?

[SHOnUup]

Gotcha....but I'm sticking with..."I'm in the sweet spot"...lol


Rich

[SHOdded]

Kinda hard to argue with the results you have gotten with your SHO, Rich!

[SHOnUup]

Thanks for noticing pal...

I fully stand behind Livernois and their great tuning abilities. But with that said, I route for everyone out there to go fast regardless of who's tuning it. Competition is great, friendly competition even better. I always refer people to both LME and Torrie, will be great to add Eric (LET) to that list after some time in the ring.

The #'s are great bragging points and proof that it's working good for "you", but in my limited experience, the real fun just comes from lining em up at the strip and running them. We're all so close, any race could go either way. Makes a bracket racing trip at the convention sound like great fun.

Rich

[Larrylu]

In regards to the 3BAR... The car is smoother in performance, and Dan Millen confirmed this in a conversation with him. He explained that it allows more incremental tuning of response due to data sent to the ECU.  I noticed the difference immediately compared to the LME 2BAR version of  the v8 tune. No matter what you do the 3.5 GDI in the SHO doesn't like to lug... It will pull timing unless you can be brisk on the throttle or get a downshift.... IMHO it's a great mod for $50-$60 bucks... Regardless of whether you use more boost.

Not really true at all, bad information. YOU LOSE RESOLUTION with a 3 bar sensor installed where the 2 bar sensor was. The stock 2 bar sensor is 0-5 volt. Meaning that 0 Bar is 0 volts and 2 Bar is 5 volts. When you run the 3 bar, then 0 Bar is 0 volts and if you are at 3 Bar then the sensor is putting out 5 volts.

When resolution goes down then you have LESS INCREMENTS per volt. THink of it like this. A speedo gauge that goes to 200mph and another that goes to 100mph and both gauges are the same size. The spaces in between the 200mph speedo will be smaller and harder to read than the 100mph gauge.

Resolution I can understand but what happens to resolution when your boost exceeds the upper measurement range of the 2BAR sensor?

[AJP turbo]

In regards to the 3BAR... The car is smoother in performance, and Dan Millen confirmed this in a conversation with him. He explained that it allows more incremental tuning of response due to data sent to the ECU.  I noticed the difference immediately compared to the LME 2BAR version of  the v8 tune. No matter what you do the 3.5 GDI in the SHO doesn't like to lug... It will pull timing unless you can be brisk on the throttle or get a downshift.... IMHO it's a great mod for $50-$60 bucks... Regardless of whether you use more boost.

Not really true at all, bad information. YOU LOSE RESOLUTION with a 3 bar sensor installed where the 2 bar sensor was. The stock 2 bar sensor is 0-5 volt. Meaning that 0 Bar is 0 volts and 2 Bar is 5 volts. When you run the 3 bar, then 0 Bar is 0 volts and if you are at 3 Bar then the sensor is putting out 5 volts.

When resolution goes down then you have LESS INCREMENTS per volt. THink of it like this. A speedo gauge that goes to 200mph and another that goes to 100mph and both gauges are the same size. The spaces in between the 200mph speedo will be smaller and harder to read than the 100mph gauge.

Resolution I can understand but what happens to resolution when your boost exceeds the upper measurement range of the 2BAR sensor?

Then you are screwed lol...there actually is a little headroom because you will see your stft rise but that will only help so much because the ecu has a limit of how much the stft can be and u would get a check engine light once it exceeds the fault threshold...but that's why you need the 3 bar, you have to have the ability to measure the elevated boost to properly fuel for it

[ZSHO]

We can debate this all day long to the functionality of a 3-bar or 2-bar map,or engine load being the highest right at up shift,3,4,5 cause the boost is highest there,,so many variables to take into consideration over the entire spectrum,such as AFR,TDC,PING,KNOCK,RETARD,IAT,VE,TIMING,etc,but have to aggree with Rich,SHOnUuP because buy the end of the day what really matters is how fast you can cross that finishing line at the track,Z.                   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGuIiuXgNbI

[AJP turbo]

Not sure what you are trying to say?..but having a 3 bar sensor is the way to go ....actually it's essential if running high boost levels...I'm just saying resolution of that sensor is down

[SHOnUup]

Ajturbo...it's just that quite a few of us noticed what seemed to be a better all around feel when driving our cars when switching to 3bar tunes. Along with that also came the waste gate "honk".  Along with those, albeit only monitoring boost with torque, I've only saw boost over 14 psi once in the cold and is usually mid to low 13's at best under wot. Seems we're pulling better power with less boost now.

Any speculation on that would be appreciated.

Rich

[AJP turbo]

Honk?

I know you won't like me saying this but would say you just think you feel a smoother running car...maybe I'm wrong but I'd have to see/feel it for myself ....I had 2 and 3 bar tunes...sometimes I leave the 3 bar sensor in and just run stock boost for the cold weather. Car feels stock no better or no worse.

I'm guessing you spike higher than 14 psi which is why it's good to have the 3 bar. The 3 bar sensor is simply a measuring device.

Tell me more about that honk?

[ZSHO]

Honk?

I know you won't like me saying this but would say you just think you feel a smoother running car...maybe I'm wrong but I'd have to see/feel it for myself ....I had 2 and 3 bar tunes...sometimes I leave the 3 bar sensor in and just run stock boost for the cold weather. Car feels stock no better or no worse.

I'm guessing you spike higher than 14 psi which is why it's good to have the 3 bar. The 3 bar sensor is simply a measuring device.

Tell me more about that honk?

Based on your last post,thought the 3-bar was the way to go!!i am not fully understanding your finding,if you take the time and read the whole thread you will know exactly what the honk is is in relations to!!!.

[SHOnUup]

The "honk" comes when getting off the throttle in light boost, say 3-7 psi give or take a bit. Sounds like plastic rubbing, maybe metal to plastic type noise?

Rich

[SHOnUup]

You could be totally right that we just feel this way, tendencies are to swim in a school.

Rich

[jtoddk98]

I am really happy with the current tune in every aspect,the only thing i would change in perspective is the Reische 170stat to the LME 160stat which i believe is better for performance and provides better longevity twards the fans.

what's the difference between the 160 and 170? It's only 10 degrees. I'm pretty sure the stock one is 190 degrees.


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[jtoddk98]

I am really happy with the current tune in every aspect,the only thing i would change in perspective is the Reische 170stat to the LME 160stat which i believe is better for performance and provides better longevity twards the fans.

what's the difference between the 160 and 170? It's only 10 degrees. I'm pretty sure the stock one is 190 degrees.


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[Larrylu]

I am really happy with the current tune in every aspect,the only thing i would change in perspective is the Reische 170stat to the LME 160stat which i believe is better for performance and provides better longevity twards the fans.

what's the difference between the 160 and 170? It's only 10 degrees. I'm pretty sure the stock one is 190 degrees.


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The stock one is a 180 degree. The coolant temps are in the 190's running it however.