How many amps is our alternator?

jtoddk98 · January 21, 2015, 10:20:53 PM

I am thinking about upgrading my sub amp from a Pioneer GMD 8601 (24A continual power) to a Pioneer GMD 9601 (39A continual power). Can our stock alternator/power system handle this load? Currently, on the GMD 8601 amp, everything is good, no voltage drops etc. I have 2 runs of 6ga wire going to the amp if that makes a difference.

Thanks

BiGMaC · January 21, 2015, 10:33:36 PM

Quote from: jtoddk98 on January 21, 2015, 10:20:53 PM
I am thinking about upgrading my sub amp from a Pioneer GMD 8601 (24A continual power) to a Pioneer GMD 9601 (39A continual power). Can our stock alternator/power system handle this load? Currently, on the GMD 8601 amp, everything is good, no voltage drops etc. I have 2 runs of 6ga wire going to the amp if that makes a difference.

Thanks

Dunno the amperage. 39 amps is not much load. You should be fine. I personally would use larger wire for cleaner power. Maybe 3 or 4 gauge. If the lights dim (doubtful) add a 2-4 farad cap.

Josephm · January 21, 2015, 11:03:05 PM

You will be fine. If you do dim, buy bigger wire. More like 2 awg and stay away from capacitors. You would be 10x better buying a battery. A slow release battery.

Cliff note: change wire, if still dim check your ground. If still buy battery.

jtoddk98 · January 21, 2015, 11:24:27 PM

2 runs of 6ga isn't enough? I put the ends together into the amp. Almost a 2-3ga wire when put together. Each has an 80A inline fuse

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Josephm · January 21, 2015, 11:31:52 PM

Your about to find out. If it dims, start with the wire.

BiGMaC · January 21, 2015, 11:33:58 PM

Quote from: jtoddk98 on January 21, 2015, 11:24:27 PM
2 runs of 6ga isn't enough? I put the ends together into the amp. Almost a 2-3ga wire when put together. Each has an 80A inline fuse

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More than the gauge get wire braided fom the smallest wire fiber you can. Only surface electrons conduct electricity. IMHO, a single 2 gauge with 1000+ strands is vastly superior. Power will be cleaner (less non-music noise) and with a sub the conductors are their for those instantaneous needs of the sub when it needs to hit a really low note. Also I recommend going oxygen free wire.

SHOdded · January 21, 2015, 11:34:50 PM

Bigger ga wire + second battery can't hurt! Battery = giant capacitor

If you have the stock-sized battery (650 CCA), I would definitely consider a second, trunk-mounted battery. You can PM Lanson see what he thinks (haven't seen him around here much lately).

The alternator (2010-12) looks to be 150 amps (that's what's listed for lower trim levels), 175 amps with heated/cooled seats, and 200 amps with the SHO. Not so clear on the 2013+ ...
http://allusedparts.com/ford/taurus/2010/alternator/

BTW, any updates from the dealer visit?

jtoddk98 · January 21, 2015, 11:41:10 PM

Quote from: SHOdded on January 21, 2015, 11:34:50 PM
Bigger ga wire + second battery can't hurt! Battery = giant capacitor If you have the stock-sized battery (650 CCA), I would definitely consider a second, trunk-mounted battery. You can PM Lanson see what he thinks (haven't seen him around here much lately).

The alternator (2010-12) looks to be 150 amps (that's what's listed for lower trim levels), 175 amps with heated/cooled seats, and 200 amps with the SHO. Not so clear on the 2013+ ...
http://allusedparts.com/ford/taurus/2010/alternator/

BTW, any updates from the dealer visit?

im going to try out my 8601 amp first, got a good deal on 2 sundown audio 10s. They are rated at 500w rms and the amp currently puts out 800 rms(400 per sub). If I got the 9601 amp, it would put out 1200w rms(600 per sub) don't know if it would be a huge difference. And about the dealer, I'm going back in the morning because the sunroof is still leaking and they managed to break the driver side window switch panel out of the door. They now have to put in a whole new door panel because the tab that the switches go into is broken.

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SHOdded · January 21, 2015, 11:50:21 PM

Ugh! Hope they get it buttoned up properly on the next visit.

As far as batteries & alternators & capacitors go, here are a couple of articles that sum up what you want to do & why:
http://cartech.about.com/od/Power/fl/High-Output-Alternator-Car-Audio-Questions.htm
http://cartech.about.com/od/Car-Audio/f/Do-I-Need-An-Extra-Battery-For-My-High-End-Car-Audio-System.htm
http://cartech.about.com/od/Car-Audio/a/Car-Audio-Capacitors.htm

jtoddk98 · January 22, 2015, 12:16:00 AM

Good reading! I wonder if I'll even notice the difference between 400 and 600 rms per sub. The new sundowns are rated at 500rms but sundown is famous for underrating.

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Josephm · January 22, 2015, 12:26:20 AM

Sundown under rates everything. I remember seeing the sa-8 on 1k watts and it still sohnding good. I had there saz-3000d and it was rated at 3k@1ohm and it clamped close to 3400 at 1 ohm and almost 4k at .5 ohm. Thing was a beast

wasinger3000 · January 22, 2015, 01:02:04 AM

On my truck I used 1/0 gauge wire going to a dry cell battery I put behind the seat next to the amp. That's the correct way to supply a large amount of amps. But I was pulling a lot more than 39.

Try the larger wire first.

jtoddk98 · January 22, 2015, 08:15:55 AM

Would I see a big difference between 400 and 600w per sub?

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EcoPowerParts · January 22, 2015, 08:22:34 AM

Quote from: jtoddk98 on January 22, 2015, 08:15:55 AM
Would I see a big difference between 400 and 600w per sub?

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Double your power, increase output by 3db = doubling of sound output.
50% increase would be 1.5db, big difference to your ears/sound pressure.

jtoddk98 · January 28, 2015, 08:32:15 AM

Current consumption for the amp is 39A and the average current drawn at 1ohm is 7.5A. So wouldn't 6 ga wire work since it is rated at 55A. Also, I am only running 10.5Ft of cable, not much.

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