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Seafoam or similar intake cleaning

Started by jtoddk98, October 20, 2014, 10:50:23 PM

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jtoddk98

Does anyone have a write up on how to to a proper seafoam intake cleaning on a SHO? My car has 46k and when I get to 50k I have decided to save the money and not do the bg service. Instead, I want my transmission flushed. Seafoam looks to do a pretty good job of cleaning.


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2011 Taurus SHO Performance Package. EBC Stage 4 Brakes. Blacked out chrome. #130 of 602 in Ingot Silver

BiGMaC

As long as you go in with eyes open and realize that only manual cleaning will get the intake valves clean.... Even the BG website explains it in their testing with a SHO over 60k miles total... Just the way gas GDI engines are. 

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

jtoddk98


Quote from: BiGMaC on October 20, 2014, 11:02:12 PM
As long as you go in with eyes open and realize that only manual cleaning will get the intake valves clean.... Even the BG website explains it in their testing with a SHO over 60k miles total... Just the way gas GDI engines are.
I wonder if a independent euro car shop would walnut blast my calves like they do with the DI BMWs. I really don't baby the car and it has run synthetic oil from new. The buildup shouldn't be that bad. I don't think ford has an approved cleaning process yet. A ford tech in a YouTube video said that the heat or carbon chunks kill the turbos.


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2011 Taurus SHO Performance Package. EBC Stage 4 Brakes. Blacked out chrome. #130 of 602 in Ingot Silver

BiGMaC

Quote from: jtoddk98 on October 20, 2014, 11:13:31 PM

Quote from: BiGMaC on October 20, 2014, 11:02:12 PM
As long as you go in with eyes open and realize that only manual cleaning will get the intake valves clean.... Even the BG website explains it in their testing with a SHO over 60k miles total... Just the way gas GDI engines are.
I wonder if a independent euro car shop would walnut blast my calves like they do with the DI BMWs. I really don't baby the car and it has run synthetic oil from new. The buildup shouldn't be that bad. I don't think ford has an approved cleaning process yet. A ford tech in a YouTube video said that the heat or carbon chunks kill the turbos.


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Maybe the Bimini boys have the tool... Their problem is reported as one of the worst.  From what I read keeping the solids out of the turbos is a key... YouTube has some vids on manual cleaning... Looks like a job I want someone else to do!

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

SHOdded

Personally, I'd save FOR a GDI cleaning service BG or Walnut etc (see this discussion), and not a transmission flush.  The transmissions are pretty sturdy, but the PTU is another story.

You can approximate a transmission flush by draining the fluid multiple times through the drain plug.


  • Before starting this process, get the transmission up to operating temp with a good run 10-20 miles non-city, then park it. 
  • With your foot on the brake, run through the gears each time before starting the drain process.
  • Drain the transmission fluid into a graduated pan.
  • Fill new transmission fluid (same quantity as drained).
  • Start the engine, let it run for 3 minutes.
  • Repeat from step 2 until in total you have put in 15 new quarts or more.

Once you have equaled or exceeded the stated transmission fluid capacity with the drain & fills, you should be good.  The manual says 10 quarts, but probably does not include the fluid held in the torque converter, not sure on what that amount is.  On the Edge (6F50), a total of 15 new quarts is recommended with this procedure, so I would think the same with the SHO (6F55).

Some people even set up a container of new fluid with tubing that goes into the fill tube (sealed of course) to gravity/vacuum draw new fluid into the transmission as the old fluid drains.  If you haven't done this before, avoid it for now, to be on the safe side.

You can tap into the cooler lines and do a flush yourself that way, but I don't recommend that for folks without significant experience in automotive servicing.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

J-Will

I use SeaFoam in all my vehicles, though I have yet to use it on the SHO (only 3k miles).  When I do it, I will dump it in the fuel take, crankcase via oil fill (just before an oil change) and find the brake booster line to feed a mist into.  I will probably even try to feed a mist of it through the intake/ throttle body though based on BIGMaC's reply this is a waste of product... perhaps preventative? Perhaps it just gives piece of mind. 

I was thinking about waiting for the 10k mark to perform the first SeaFoam treatment, though since I am using the vehicle far less than anticipated, I may do it around the next oil change.
2014 Factory Order SHO (non pp) Deep Impact Blue
Gearhead Automotive Performance Tune
3-bar
SP-542 plugs w/ GH gap

mrpositraction


Quote from: J-Will on October 21, 2014, 08:08:11 AM
I use SeaFoam in all my vehicles, though I have yet to use it on the SHO (only 3k miles).  When I do it, I will dump it in the fuel take, crankcase via oil fill (just before an oil change) and find the brake booster line to feed a mist into.  I will probably even try to feed a mist of it through the intake/ throttle body though based on BIGMaC's reply this is a waste of product... perhaps preventative? Perhaps it just gives piece of mind. 

I was thinking about waiting for the 10k mark to perform the first SeaFoam treatment, though since I am using the vehicle far less than anticipated, I may do it around the next oil change.

Make sure the brake boost line goes to the I take. I did this in my 2011 F150 with no problem. Then on my 2013 F150 that same brake booster line went to the passenger valve cover.

I haven't looked at my 2015 SHO yet to see where this could be done.


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SHOdded

Be sure to only MIST the fluid, whatever you use, taking a cue from the methanol injection setups.  The GDI system isn't accounting for fluids through that route, so whatever comes through should be well vaporized.  I don't know if hydrolock could be a problem in an extreme situation, maybe somebody could speak to that.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

wasinger3000

I would just buy the seafoam aerosol can that comes with the induction spray hose. It's made for this and you won't overdo it.
13' SHO, Non-PP, Tuned by Torrie, Meth injection, 3 bar, 170* stat, custom axle back exhaust, Prosport Boost gauge.
15' F150 Lariat Sport, all the options, 3.5L Eco. (fiancée ride.)
13' GTCS, will be missed.

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

J-Will

Quote from: SHOdded on October 21, 2014, 10:33:59 AM
This one?  http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/


Yes, thats for spraying.  I also use the larger can to dump into the fuel tank and crankcase. 
2014 Factory Order SHO (non pp) Deep Impact Blue
Gearhead Automotive Performance Tune
3-bar
SP-542 plugs w/ GH gap

wasinger3000

Quote from: SHOdded on October 21, 2014, 10:33:59 AM
This one?  http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/

That's the one! I took it a step further and sprayed seafoam's "deep creep" through the intake and let it sit for 12 hours. I had wonderful results. Tops of my pistons became quite "purdy".
13' SHO, Non-PP, Tuned by Torrie, Meth injection, 3 bar, 170* stat, custom axle back exhaust, Prosport Boost gauge.
15' F150 Lariat Sport, all the options, 3.5L Eco. (fiancée ride.)
13' GTCS, will be missed.

SHOdded

Did you suction out the deep creep after letting it sit, or burn it off?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

IHeartGroceries

Your pistons stand a chance. Deposits are less severe there. If deposits are bad on your pistons, it'd be a good idea to correct the issue, to prevent hot spotting. It's the backs of your intake valves that don't stand a chance. And seafoam will absolutely not cut through that stuff, after so long. If you want to pay, the media blasting is a good service. If you're DIY guy, a manual cleaning IS possible. Use a solvent and a trusty brush. Don't lose bristles. Vacuum out what's left behind.

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2013 SHO PP

SHOdded

#14
Bristle brush attached to a power drill, after solvent soak?  Also, do you have to have piston TDC before you do the manual cleaning for that port, or anything like that?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!