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SHO misfire

Started by bully60, October 15, 2014, 12:28:43 PM

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bully60


Hello everyone.  I'm new to this site and I'm hoping you guys have some info related to my issue.  I recently purchased a 2010 SHO in april with 44K on it.  The car is in bone stock form.  The issue that i have is after the car is driven for about 20min, then i go to WOT, the car has a horrible misfire.  The check engine light will start flashing and everything.  Once that happens, if I drive the car normally for 30-60 seconds, i will clear right up and the light will go out.  If I go to WOT again, the process will start all over.  Ive pulled codes P0300-P0306.  I've replaced all 6 spark plugs with the iridium ones that Ford offers for it and had the latest reflash done with no change what so ever.  Whenever the motor is cold, it will never misfire and runs great.  The problem happens about 20 mins after you drive it.  It doesnt matter if its city or highway.  I can get the car to do this on a daily basis.  When driving normally, the car runs great until you go to WOT.  Any info or advice related to this issue would be great.  Thankyou!

EcoPowerParts

I moved your post to the new troubleshooting board:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,141.0.html

Also removed the other one in the build thread board.
Thanks for joining BTW!
Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
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please use my website for any price quotes and to submit any orders.
Please email me via info@ecopowerparts.com if you have any questions on new or existing orders, PM's via the forum are hard to track your purchase as I can't relate user name to actual name.
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ZSHO

Did you try removing the ground on the battery for a good hour so it resets the ECU,and then perform the adaptive relearn process to ensure correct idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum performance.


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

crash712us

Possible dirty or bad inhector or sludged valves.

2011 tuxedo black non pp, LMS stage 5, Corsa cat back, LMS down pipes, Airaid, Alky control meth injection, Megan Racing coil overs, EBC rotor&pads, Mobsteel grill, 2013 trans cooler. 403whp 417wtq 12.25 @ 110

EcoPowerParts

Another vote for injectors as I said on facebook :)
Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
www.ecopowerparts.com -
please use my website for any price quotes and to submit any orders.
Please email me via info@ecopowerparts.com if you have any questions on new or existing orders, PM's via the forum are hard to track your purchase as I can't relate user name to actual name.
https://www.facebook.com/ecopowerparts

SHOnUup

Welcome to the neighborhood!  You have come to the right place, the wizards here are the best around IMO.

Good luck on the fix.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

SHOdded

Welcome to bully60 & his 2010 SHO :D  Back the vote for an injector related problem, possibly fuel pump under load.  Rarely will it be wires/coils/PCM.  Also since you are gen 4.1, I would check for chafing knock sensor wires.  There is a HOW TO on here to do just that.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=554
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

BiGMaC

My thoughts are:
Sensor failure... Especially if it only append after warmed up and not in open loop before O2 sensors warm up.

Failing coil... Problem under load or chaffed knock sensor wire as Manu suggests.

An electrical connection in the ignition... Problem under load... Try putting dielectric grease in connections outside computer and check for corrosion.

Bad/dirty injector.

Do you data log or can you read OBD2 codes? Is it always the same cylinder?

There have been numerous reports of stretched timing chains on rear bank... This one usually sounds like it is knocking at startup.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

bully60

UPDATE: I did check my knock sensor wiring and it is in fact chaffed.  I wrapped some foam tape around it.  Coming home from work today, I went to WOT and it was much better.  It had some hesitation to it but nothing like its been doing.  No check engine light came on either.  As far as the fuel injectors, wouldn't the misfire be at all engine operating conditions instead of just WOT?  And like I said, the car runs great when the engine is cold.  To my knowledge, engines require more fuel when cold.  I've never once had any issues on a cold engine.  I do get a knocking sound on startup whether the engine is hot or cold.  The noise is gone in 1-2 sec.  As per the Ford dealership, this is a normal noise.  Once again, any advice would be great.  You guys seem to know more than anybody else. 

SHOdded

If the fuel injectors are not operating optimally, you could see them "fail" when maximum load is demanded, i.e., WOT.  I don't know if the injectors are balanced as a set when issued with the car from the factory, but you can bet that after use, they won't have equal threshholds where an event is triggered.  Simplest thing to try first is to run some Techron or BG or similar quality FI cleaner through the gas tank, see if that helps the hesitation issue.  Keep an eye on the spark plugs to see if the engine is running lean/rich.  Don't want any plug wet with fuel for sure!

Valves could also be carboned, as Crash pointed out earlier.  Common problem with GDI engines.  There are solutions from various aftermarket providers to clean up the carbon, or you could have the valves blasted with walnut shell media.  If you (or a trusted mechanic) have access to a boroscope, you can check to see if this problem exists in your SHO.

The 1-2 second knock could be insufficient oil pressure at engine start.  Sometimes it can be resolved by changing oil filter brands.  Most have had good luck with the Motorcraft "OEM" filter, some have had to use another brand to stop the noise.  In an extreme/more advanced case, as BiGMaC pointed out, you could have a loose timing chain issue.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

bully60

I went back and checked my records, and the last 11 times the check engine light came on it was P0302.  I've swapped the #2 coil and plug to #5 and still get the same P0302.  Any advice would be great.

SHOnUup


You've probably seen this but figured this may help in the troubleshooting if not.

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

EcoPowerParts

Quote from: bully60 on October 16, 2014, 08:34:51 AM
I went back and checked my records, and the last 11 times the check engine light came on it was P0302.  I've swapped the #2 coil and plug to #5 and still get the same P0302.  Any advice would be great.
Buy a new injector and replace that one :)
Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
www.ecopowerparts.com -
please use my website for any price quotes and to submit any orders.
Please email me via info@ecopowerparts.com if you have any questions on new or existing orders, PM's via the forum are hard to track your purchase as I can't relate user name to actual name.
https://www.facebook.com/ecopowerparts

bully60

I'm going to order a new injector.  Thanks for all of the advice guys.  This site is amazing.   I will post back with my results.

MDesign Performance

Just a heads up, if you did not already make sure you use dielectric grease liberally on both the plug and coil as Tom suggested. If you do not you will get misfires and arching, also I would make sure the plugs are properly gapped at this time.
2011 MKS EcoBoost: MDesign Carbon Cold Air Intake; SP-534 Plugs; Power Stop C/S Rotors

sales@mdesignperformance.com
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