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Anybody with P0172 and P0175 codes

Started by BigPelo, June 18, 2014, 03:31:09 PM

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BigPelo

I have been having CEL for some time now always P0172 and P0175. On colder temperature, the car idles rough at startup but it gets OK after warmup. CEL appears after several minutes idling (like when remote started in winter).

After some research, I am thinking that the throttle body might be the problem. Not sure how to clean/check it... Or maybe the 3bar MAP sensor is causing this... Any help would be appreciated!

Here are some information I found on the interwebz:

A code P0172 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

1.   The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters (K&N, etc.) can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled
2.   There could be a vacuum leak.
3.   There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem
Possible solutions include:

1.   Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
2.   Clean the MAF sensor. Consult a service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
3.   Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
4.   Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
5.   Check the fuel injectors, they may be dirty. Use fuel injector cleaner or get them professionally cleaned/replaced.
6.   Check for an exhaust leak before the first oxygen sensor (this is unlikely to cause the problem, but it is possible)


P0172 and P0175 - OBD-II Trouble Codes
Auto Systems and Repair
Fuel System Too Rich (Bank 1 or 2)
Our emissions expert has put together the following information about the P0172 and P0175 fault code. We have also included diagnostic procedures you can take to your repair shop if the mechanic is having difficulty analyzing the code.
OBD II Fault Code
•   OBD II P0172
•   OBD II P0175
Fault Code Definition
•   OBD II P0172 Fuel System Too Rich (Bank 1)
•   OBD II P0175 Fuel System Too Rich (Bank 2)
Symptoms
•   Check Engine Light will illuminate
•   In some cases, no adverse conditions may be noticed by the driver
•   In other cases, there may be performance problems, such as a lack of power on acceleration and some "coughing" or misfiring. The vehicle may have trouble idling, especially when warm or when sitting at a stoplight.
•   Other codes may be set, such as P0300 (random, multiple misfires)
Common Problems That Trigger the P0172 and P0175 Code
•   PCM software needs to be updated
•   Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF)
•   Defective Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)
•   Engine mechanical problems
•   Defective Oxygen Sensor
•   Defective Fuel Pressure Regulator
•   Defective Coolant and/or Air Temperature Sensor
•   Thermostat is stuck open
•   Ignition Misfires
•   Defective Throttle Position Sensor
•   Defective or restricted fuel return line
•   Defective Fuel Injectors
Common Misdiagnoses
•   Oxygen Sensors
•   Fuel Pump
•   Fuel Injectors
•   Fuel Pressure Regulator
Polluting Gases Expelled
•   HCs (Hydrocarbons): Unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, affect breathing, and contribute to smog
•   CO (Carbon Monoxide): Partially burned fuel that is an odorless and deadly poisonous gas
The Basics
Combustion engines operate by burning an air/fuel mixture of about 14.7 to 1—14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. When the air ratio goes below 14.7 parts, this is called a "rich" mixture. If the air rises above 14.7 parts, it is called a "lean" mixture.

Rich Mixture = Too much fuel, not enough air
Lean Mixture = Too much air, not enough fuel

To keep the engine running properly, the Engine Control Module measures the oxygen content in the exhaust with oxygen sensors and makes adjustments to the mixture by injecting more or less fuel.

The control module operates within specific parameters and under normal conditions, it will make minor adjustments to the air/fuel mixture. When these adjustments become too large, a fault code is set. When the P0172/P0175 code sets, the oxygen sensors are detecting too little oxygen in the exhaust and the control module is removing the maximum amount of fuel in its effort to maintain the proper air/fuel mixture.
P0172/P0175 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
When a vehicle has the fault code P0172 and or P0175, it means that computer can no longer automatically adjust the mixture between air and fuel. Code P0172 applies to Bank 1 and P0175 applies to Bank 2. Code P0175 mainly applies to V6 or V8 engines because 4-cylinder engines generally have only one bank, though there are a few exceptions. Some of the high performance 4-cylinder and straight 6-cylinder engines (such as those in BMW and Lexus) split the cylinders into groups of two or three and call them separate banks.
When the code says that the Fuel System is "too rich," it means that the computer has been subtracting more and more fuel, which is called Long Term Fuel Trim. Ideally, the Long Term Fuel Trim should be close to 1 to 2 percent. When a code P0172 is set, it means that the Fuel Trim is anywhere from -15 percent to as low as -30 percent compensated. When this happens, the computer knows that there is an improper condition in the control of the Fuel System.
The first step in the diagnosis of a code P0172 and/or P0175 is to look at a minimum of three ranges of the Long Term Fuel Trim numbers on a scanner. Check the idle reading—3000 RPM unloaded and 3000 RPM with at least 50 percent load. Then check the freeze frame information for the code to see which range(s) failed and what the operating conditions were.
Before we get into the main causes of P0172, let's explore why this code matters.

Why Does a P0172/P0175 Code and Running "Too Rich" Matter?
"Rich" running cars and trucks are highly polluting vehicles. CO pollution, which is poisonous and helps create ozone, is caused by vehicles that are running too rich. A rich condition can also cause misfires from "overfueling" (too much fuel for the Ignition Spark to burn), which puts raw fuel (HCs) into the atmosphere. When inhaled, these raw fuel droplets are very poisonous to living beings and contribute to the yellow/brown color in a polluted sky. When you are driving behind a "rich" running car or truck, it can smell very bad, somewhat like rotten eggs, and make you feel dizzy. This is caused by the Catalytic Converter consuming too much sulfur (part of vehicle fuel). However, it should be noted that a "rich" running engine can also have little or no smell, since CO itself is odorless.
   
P0172 is not an Oxygen Sensor problem. Before a P0172 code is possible, the computer first ran a series of tests to validate the readings from the oxygen sensors. Since the oxygen sensors passed their readiness tests and didn't set any codes, the computer then looked to the Fuel Trim adjustment. When the computer determined the air-to-fuel mixture to be too rich, it then set the P0172 code.
What Are Some Common Causes of Code P0172/P0175?
Always check to make sure that there is not a PCM software update due or available. Often, as the vehicle's engine wears, the PCM's Fuel Map software inaccurately compensates for this condition. The fuel mixture grows rich and eventually, the code sets.
An "over reporting" Mass Air Flow Sensor can be a common cause of a code P0172 and P0175. Essentially, this means that the Air Flow Sensor is telling the computer that much more air is entering the engine than actually is. Based on this large amount of air entering the engine, the engine computer or PCM sprays more fuel into the combustion chambers.
Since the oxygen sensors are telling the computer that less fuel is needed, this causes confusion in the computer because the Mass Air Flow Sensor is still saying there is too much air and the Oxygen Sensor is reporting that the mixture is still too rich. The computer tried to compensate, but since resolution is impossible, it sets the code. It is important to restate that the Oxygen Sensors are accurate—the fuel mixture is too rich. In this case, the Air Flow Meter or Sensor is inaccurately reporting the real amount of air entering the engine.
How Do I Know if the Problem Is the Mass Air Flow Sensor?
There is a very effective "truth test" for any Mass Air Flow Sensor. Start the engine, let it idle, and then check the Barometric Pressure reading on the scan tool data. If the reading is about 34.5 Hg and you are close to sea level, you know that you have a defective Air Flow Meter because it is telling you that you are at about 4000 feetbelow sea level. (These conversion tables will help.) When the Mass Air Flow Sensor sees this Barometric reading, it adjusts its Air Density table and then "over reports" the actual amount of air entering the engine. It does this because the Barometric Pressure Sensor is actually part of the Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Sometimes the Air Flow Sensor and the sensing wire get covered with dirt, dust, or oil residue, which can also set a P0172. Cleaning the sensor might hold off problems for a while, but eventually, the MAF sensor should be replaced. Always make sure the Air Filter and its enclosure are dirt-, dust-, and oil-free. If you clean and replace the filter and its enclosure as needed, you will prevent the new MAF from failing.
Additional Causes of Code P0172/P0175
•   Defective Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor and/or its vacuum line. Check the MAP reading and then do a manual vacuum reading. An engine needs to have at least 17 to 18 inches of vacuum in order to run properly. When the MAP reading is low, the PCM thinks that the vehicle is under heavy load and increases the fuel supply.
•   Mechanical engine problems will cause a low MAP sensor reading because engine vacuum is low or erratic. A slipped or inaccurately installed Timing Chain or Timing Belt and/or leaking Head Gasket can cause poor vacuum and MAP readings. If the engine has a mechanical misfire from valve train problems or weak cylinder compression, it will send puffs of oxygen into the exhaust system. This will cause the Oxygen Sensors to receive false "lean" readings (high exhaust oxygen content).
•   A defective Oxygen Sensor can sometimes cause a P0172. If the Oxygen Sensor heater element only works intermittently—well enough to pass the readiness test, but fails once the car has been driven for a while—the vehicle will go into "open loop."
•   A stuck Fuel Pressure Regulator can cause a rich condition since the Fuel Pressure will be too high, causing an "over fueling" condition. Be sure to verify proper Fuel Pressure under various driving conditions.
•   An inaccurate Coolant Temperature or Air Temperature Sensor can cause a rich condition because they will report that the engine is still cold, which will cause the PCM to keep the mixture rich long after the engine is at proper operating temperature.
•   A Thermostat stuck in the open position can mechanically cause a code P0172, especially in cold climates. The engine won't warm up, preventing it from going into "closed loop" fuel control.
•   Ignition misfires, like mechanical misfires, cause puffs of oxygen to keep hitting the Oxygen Sensors. Since the sensors will think the mixture is running lean, the PCM will add fuel to the mixture.
•   A worn or stuck wiper in the Throttle Position Sensor will tell the PCM that more power is being requested by the operator. The PCM will add fuel to accommodate this false TPS reading.
•   If the vehicle is not hoisted properly, the fuel return line can be pinched, causing a high Fuel Pressure condition. Always verify Fuel Pressure for any code P0172.
•   Shorted Fuel Injector windings can cause the injectors to spray too much fuel, causing a rich condition. Be sure to verify the Pulse Width (the PCM "on" time) with the Labscope Injector Firing pattern. Be sure to "Ohm check" the injector winding resistance as well in order to verify that it's within specification.
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

ZSHO

I would personally start with some basic cleaning,get some MAF cleaner and clean the IAT sensor by the air filter,did you overoil the filter?clean the 3 bar senors with maf cleaner and try swapin them around same part#.add some chevron fuel cleaner,when did you start getting the codes after the 3-bar install/


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

BigPelo

Yes it started after 3bar install and new tune for it. But car runs great and hold 16.5 psi anyday. The IAT is 1st on the list and 3bar MAP sensor will take no time cleaning so I will start with these.
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

BigPelo

And my air filter is the non oil version.
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

ShoBoat

Hey BigPelo, there was a video on here about buildup on the back of the valves causing a similar issue to what you are describing. Does it idle rough when it's cold?


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2012 Pearl White CTS-V Stock
2016 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB Stock
2013 SHO Black on Black (Gone) PP, Unleashed Custom Tune, 170 TStat, SP534 Plugs, 3 Bar, Airaid Intake, PPE catted downpipes, Corsa Cat-back, H&R Springs. Focal 165KR Front Stage,2 JL W6 10 with Focal 800.1. 12.62 @ 110 mph.

BigPelo

Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

ShoBoat

Have a look at this, it might be helpful. I have taken to cleaning mine from time to time with seafoam. The BG fuel treatment is also a good way to go. Other than a manual cleaning. If you have access to a snake cam you can have a look at the valve land see if they are actually bad.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=3021


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2012 Pearl White CTS-V Stock
2016 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB Stock
2013 SHO Black on Black (Gone) PP, Unleashed Custom Tune, 170 TStat, SP534 Plugs, 3 Bar, Airaid Intake, PPE catted downpipes, Corsa Cat-back, H&R Springs. Focal 165KR Front Stage,2 JL W6 10 with Focal 800.1. 12.62 @ 110 mph.

ShoBoat

Btw have you done the retro yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2012 Pearl White CTS-V Stock
2016 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB Stock
2013 SHO Black on Black (Gone) PP, Unleashed Custom Tune, 170 TStat, SP534 Plugs, 3 Bar, Airaid Intake, PPE catted downpipes, Corsa Cat-back, H&R Springs. Focal 165KR Front Stage,2 JL W6 10 with Focal 800.1. 12.62 @ 110 mph.

BigPelo

Installation july 3rd if shop isn't shut down for maintenance.
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

ShoBoat

Quote from: BigPelo on June 18, 2014, 05:15:12 PM
Installation july 3rd if shop isn't shut down for maintenance.

Awesome, post pics!
2012 Pearl White CTS-V Stock
2016 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB Stock
2013 SHO Black on Black (Gone) PP, Unleashed Custom Tune, 170 TStat, SP534 Plugs, 3 Bar, Airaid Intake, PPE catted downpipes, Corsa Cat-back, H&R Springs. Focal 165KR Front Stage,2 JL W6 10 with Focal 800.1. 12.62 @ 110 mph.

BigPelo

Quote from: ShoBoat on June 18, 2014, 05:11:22 PM
Have a look at this, it might be helpful. I have taken to cleaning mine from time to time with seafoam. The BG fuel treatment is also a good way to go. Other than a manual cleaning. If you have access to a snake cam you can have a look at the valve land see if they are actually bad.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=3021


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You used SeaFoam motor treatment directly into your fuel tank? Does it cleaned the intake valves?
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

BigPelo

Quote from: ShoBoat on June 18, 2014, 05:35:58 PM
Quote from: BigPelo on June 18, 2014, 05:15:12 PM
Installation july 3rd if shop isn't shut down for maintenance.

Awesome, post pics!

Postponed to July 4th because of major maintenance shut down at my job.
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

ShoBoat


Quote from: BigPelo on June 19, 2014, 11:41:02 AM
Quote from: ShoBoat on June 18, 2014, 05:11:22 PM
Have a look at this, it might be helpful. I have taken to cleaning mine from time to time with seafoam. The BG fuel treatment is also a good way to go. Other than a manual cleaning. If you have access to a snake cam you can have a look at the valve land see if they are actually bad.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=3021


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You used SeaFoam motor treatment directly into your fuel tank? Does it cleaned the intake valves?

No I used this stuff



Just go easy with it, I did multiple small treatments.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2012 Pearl White CTS-V Stock
2016 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB Stock
2013 SHO Black on Black (Gone) PP, Unleashed Custom Tune, 170 TStat, SP534 Plugs, 3 Bar, Airaid Intake, PPE catted downpipes, Corsa Cat-back, H&R Springs. Focal 165KR Front Stage,2 JL W6 10 with Focal 800.1. 12.62 @ 110 mph.

BigPelo

Quote from: ShoBoat on June 19, 2014, 12:50:14 PM

No I used this stuff



Just go easy with it, I did multiple small treatments.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thanks!
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd

BigPelo

Quote from: ShoBoat on June 19, 2014, 12:50:14 PM
No I used this stuff



Just go easy with it, I did multiple small treatments.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you spray it after the throttle body? Did you had to disconnect anything?
Week-end family transporter: 2013 SHO tuxedo black, performance package, unleashed custom 94 octane tune, K&N Typhoon intake, 170F thermostat, 3 bar MAP sensor, SP534 spark plugs, 5000K HID Morimoto mini D2S projectors retrofit, tinted windows, Full LED lighting in and out, Eibach springs
Daily beater: 2002 WRX wagon swap JDM STi v7 20G'd