• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

What have you done to your Ecoboosted vehicle today?

Started by EcoPowerParts, January 14, 2013, 08:56:36 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Jordan

World's Fastest SHO Ecoboost July 2019 - Current

2020 Power Numbers - 536AWHP/647Torque

SM105K

Quote from: Jordan on February 21, 2019, 12:18:29 PM
I used my fiancee's tiny hands lol

Lucky, oh and your install video was quite helpful.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |


ZSHO

#6093
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 09:34:19 AM
New o2's are in the car.  What a pain in the ass for the front two.  It tried my patience but I got it done.  Couple of things to help you if you decide to change yours.

You will need a 7/8 or 22 mm combo wrench, dikes, and 3 foot shoe string.

The front sensor is easier to get too if you loosen the 3 bolts on the turbo heat shield.  I actually cut the wires on the my old ones so I could get my box end around the sensor itself.  You will not be able to remove the shield completely, I just worked around it.

For the rear sensor, it is accessible by removing the passenger side tire.  Use a jack stand, safety first.  I cut the wires again and got my box end around the sensor and removed it.  I lowered the car on the jack, and took off the engine cover. I reached into the engine bay and un-clipped the wiring harness from the stud on the engine and then un-clipped the o2 connector clips from the mount.  If you look at your new o2 sensor you will see the clips for the mount. Since the wires were cut, I pulled the harness up and unplugged it.

I installed the new o2 sensor.  This is where the shoe string comes to play.  I made a slipknot (not the band) and fed it down through the engine compartment to where the o2 sensor connector is.  I looped it around the connector and pulled it up to where it connected and tied it off so it couldn't fall back down.  From there I connected the harness and 02 connector and mounted them in the correct place.  I unloooped the shoe string and it was done. Two hours later mixed with some colorful language,  I am pretty sure my neighbor thinks I have tourettes.

Hope this helps.
I can do it with my hands tied behind my back! Lol. I should created a "How To". The Front wide-band sensors can be a bit pain in the ass and found the best method is to access from the TOP of the engine and while the other 02 sensor can be accessed through the passenger side wheel well cover by removing the wheel + cover. Z
How's she running! Noticeable difference before and after install! Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SM105K

Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2019, 01:05:38 PM
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 09:34:19 AM
New o2's are in the car.  What a pain in the ass for the front two.  It tried my patience but I got it done.  Couple of things to help you if you decide to change yours.

You will need a 7/8 or 22 mm combo wrench, dikes, and 3 foot shoe string.

The front sensor is easier to get too if you loosen the 3 bolts on the turbo heat shield.  I actually cut the wires on the my old ones so I could get my box end around the sensor itself.  You will not be able to remove the shield completely, I just worked around it.

For the rear sensor, it is accessible by removing the passenger side tire.  Use a jack stand, safety first.  I cut the wires again and got my box end around the sensor and removed it.  I lowered the car on the jack, and took off the engine cover. I reached into the engine bay and un-clipped the wiring harness from the stud on the engine and then un-clipped the o2 connector clips from the mount.  If you look at your new o2 sensor you will see the clips for the mount. Since the wires were cut, I pulled the harness up and unplugged it.

I installed the new o2 sensor.  This is where the shoe string comes to play.  I made a slipknot (not the band) and fed it down through the engine compartment to where the o2 sensor connector is.  I looped it around the connector and pulled it up to where it connected and tied it off so it couldn't fall back down.  From there I connected the harness and 02 connector and mounted them in the correct place.  I unloooped the shoe string and it was done. Two hours later mixed with some colorful language,  I am pretty sure my neighbor thinks I have tourettes.

Hope this helps.
I can do it with my hands tied  behind my back!Lol. I should created a "How To"! The front wide-band sensors can be a bit pain in the ass and found the best method is to access from the TOP of the engine and while the other 02 sensor can be accessed through the passenger side wheel well by removing the wheel.
How's she running! Notable difference before and after install! Z

She has never run better. 

I then went and ran some logs for Brad for some finalized tuning for the dyno. On my 1st-4th gear pull she was riding! At the top of 4th gear (yeah I know, save it for someone who cares) I heard an interesting sound. Sounded like something let loose and was dragging. I instantly thought side skirting...but nope. Damn skid plate/splash cover came undone. Grr....now I need to go buy some new set screws, spacers, mounts and reinstall it. So yeah. Fun.

Intercooler works damn good. I am seeing 20 to 25 degrees over ambient at the manifold. Also my car is having trouble holding more then 15 psi of boost. It keeps tampering off in the high rpms, even with the gates at 100%. So maybe the turbos are getting tired. Going to talk to my turbo guy and see if rebuilding them and adding a set of billet wheels is worth the money. Dyno runs tomorrow at 9 am.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

Gjkrisa

Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 01:22:04 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2019, 01:05:38 PM
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 09:34:19 AM
New o2's are in the car.  What a pain in the ass for the front two.  It tried my patience but I got it done.  Couple of things to help you if you decide to change yours.

You will need a 7/8 or 22 mm combo wrench, dikes, and 3 foot shoe string.

The front sensor is easier to get too if you loosen the 3 bolts on the turbo heat shield.  I actually cut the wires on the my old ones so I could get my box end around the sensor itself.  You will not be able to remove the shield completely, I just worked around it.

For the rear sensor, it is accessible by removing the passenger side tire.  Use a jack stand, safety first.  I cut the wires again and got my box end around the sensor and removed it.  I lowered the car on the jack, and took off the engine cover. I reached into the engine bay and un-clipped the wiring harness from the stud on the engine and then un-clipped the o2 connector clips from the mount.  If you look at your new o2 sensor you will see the clips for the mount. Since the wires were cut, I pulled the harness up and unplugged it.

I installed the new o2 sensor.  This is where the shoe string comes to play.  I made a slipknot (not the band) and fed it down through the engine compartment to where the o2 sensor connector is.  I looped it around the connector and pulled it up to where it connected and tied it off so it couldn't fall back down.  From there I connected the harness and 02 connector and mounted them in the correct place.  I unloooped the shoe string and it was done. Two hours later mixed with some colorful language,  I am pretty sure my neighbor thinks I have tourettes.

Hope this helps.
I can do it with my hands tied  behind my back!Lol. I should created a "How To"! The front wide-band sensors can be a bit pain in the ass and found the best method is to access from the TOP of the engine and while the other 02 sensor can be accessed through the passenger side wheel well by removing the wheel.
How's she running! Notable difference before and after install! Z

She has never run better. 

I then went and ran some logs for Brad for some finalized tuning for the dyno. On my 1st-4th gear pull she was riding! At the top of 4th gear (yeah I know, save it for someone who cares) I heard an interesting sound. Sounded like something let loose and was dragging. I instantly thought side skirting...but nope. Damn skid plate/splash cover came undone. Grr....now I need to go buy some new set screws, spacers, mounts and reinstall it. So yeah. Fun.

Intercooler works damn good. I am seeing 20 to 25 degrees over ambient at the manifold. Also my car is having trouble holding more then 15 psi of boost. It keeps tampering off in the high rpms, even with the gates at 100%. So maybe the turbos are getting tired. Going to talk to my turbo guy and see if rebuilding them and adding a set of billet wheels is worth the money. Dyno runs tomorrow at 9 am.
Yeah I noticed every time I go to 140 that cover breaks have only done it twice so haven't done it since last time replacing it
Planning on making a fiber glass one with large washers.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

SM105K

#6096
^ Gjkrisa that is interesting that you said that.  The seems the rear driver side came undone around that speed for me as well.  I know they weren't loose.  I was under the car earlier and always check them.  I have noticed some play in them however. So all new hardware is on the docket for the skid plate.
"M" 2013 SHO PP | AJPTurbo E30 Tune | FS HPFP | Stock IC with Ice Water DIY Sprayer | PPE Downpipes | Custom Magnaflow Resonator | 3rd Cat Delete | Derale Upgraded Trans Cooler | Dicunzolo Gen2 Trans Mounts| EPP Noisemaker Eliminator | MSD Coil Over Plugs | SP-542's | UPR Dual Valve Catch Can | K&N Drop In | Power Stop Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Stock PP Pads | H&R Springs  | AVS Flush Deflector | 802SHO Custom Splitter | Duraflex Chin Spoiler | Curva Concept C7's | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber | 411 HP and 546 TQ |

"The Fukus" 2013 Focus ST | Boomba BOV | FSWerks Short Shifter | Power Stop Brakes | Continental DWS06 Extreme Contact Rubber |

Gjkrisa

Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 01:58:50 PM
^ Gjkrisa that is interesting that you said that.  The seems the rear driver side came undone around that speed for me as well.  I know they weren't loose.  I was under the car earlier and always check them.  I have noticed some play in them however. So all new hardware is on the docket for the skid plate.
Yeah after my 2nd oil change I noticed they had replaced all the hardware I thought it was because they found the quick connects were not staying screwed in but I think it's really because there is to much down force on that panel at higher speeds.
I wounded what just getting out the vent would do?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

ZSHO

#6098
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 01:22:04 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2019, 01:05:38 PM
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 09:34:19 AM
New o2's are in the car.  What a pain in the ass for the front two.  It tried my patience but I got it done.  Couple of things to help you if you decide to change yours.

You will need a 7/8 or 22 mm combo wrench, dikes, and 3 foot shoe string.

The front sensor is easier to get too if you loosen the 3 bolts on the turbo heat shield.  I actually cut the wires on the my old ones so I could get my box end around the sensor itself.  You will not be able to remove the shield completely, I just worked around it.

For the rear sensor, it is accessible by removing the passenger side tire.  Use a jack stand, safety first.  I cut the wires again and got my box end around the sensor and removed it.  I lowered the car on the jack, and took off the engine cover. I reached into the engine bay and un-clipped the wiring harness from the stud on the engine and then un-clipped the o2 connector clips from the mount.  If you look at your new o2 sensor you will see the clips for the mount. Since the wires were cut, I pulled the harness up and unplugged it.

I installed the new o2 sensor.  This is where the shoe string comes to play.  I made a slipknot (not the band) and fed it down through the engine compartment to where the o2 sensor connector is.  I looped it around the connector and pulled it up to where it connected and tied it off so it couldn't fall back down.  From there I connected the harness and 02 connector and mounted them in the correct place.  I unloooped the shoe string and it was done. Two hours later mixed with some colorful language,  I am pretty sure my neighbor thinks I have tourettes.

Hope this helps.
I can do it with my hands tied  behind my back!Lol. I should created a "How To"! The front wide-band sensors can be a bit pain in the ass and found the best method is to access from the TOP of the engine and while the other 02 sensor can be accessed through the passenger side wheel well by removing the wheel.
How's she running! Notable difference before and after install! Z

She has never run better. 

I then went and ran some logs for Brad for some finalized tuning for the dyno. On my 1st-4th gear pull she was riding! At the top of 4th gear (yeah I know, save it for someone who cares) I heard an interesting sound. Sounded like something let loose and was dragging. I instantly thought side skirting...but nope. Damn skid plate/splash cover came undone. Grr....now I need to go buy some new set screws, spacers, mounts and reinstall it. So yeah. Fun.

Intercooler works damn good. I am seeing 20 to 25 degrees over ambient at the manifold. Also my car is having trouble holding more then 15 psi of boost. It keeps tampering off in the high rpms, even with the gates at 100%. So maybe the turbos are getting tired. Going to talk to my turbo guy and see if rebuilding them and adding a set of billet wheels is worth the money. Dyno runs tomorrow at 9 am.
Hmm. Did you notice issues holding boost Prior to the IC install! Glad it was only the cover and NO one was hurt and due stay safe my fellow ecoboosters. Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

802SHO

Just wanted to add that when I installed my front chin spoiler I no longer had any where to reattach my splash guard.  I was still able to attach to the fender liner and the rear with the push clips but nothing in the front.  I used zip ties and it came off over 100 and damn near ruined the splash guard from dragging it attached to the fender liner.  I bought some stainless steel zip ties from Home Depot.  It does not come off period.  Pretty cool, I never knew that stainless steel zip ties even existed prior.  So anyway, if you guys ever need some additional support of means of attaching it...drill a couple small holes and use stainless steel zip ties.  They will not break. 
IG @802SHO 2010 SHO non PP, Tuned by AJP Turbo, 109 Octane + VP C85 for E30, Ported GH Gen 3 upgraded turbos, Ported 13+ Exhaust Manifolds, Custom FM IC TreadStone TR10C, EPP Hot Pipes, EPP Dual CAI, XDI35 HPFP, Deatschwerks 300C LPFP, Alky Control Methonal Injection, Alky dual nozzle upgrade, Zex Nitrous dual dry shots, Dicunzolo Gen2 torque mounts, MSD Coils, SP542 .026, 160 T, 3bar, Phenolic Spacer, Braille Lightweight Battery, Kirky Lightweight Racing Driver Seat, Catless Downpipes, custom stainless 2.5" double xpipe w/muffler deletes 4" quad tips, UPR Dual Valve Catch Can, 13+ PP Trans Cooler, Econoaid throttle Body Booster, Bravado Tribute 20x9.5 + 32 offset Wheels, Nitto NT555R Front Tires, Continental Extreme Contact DW Rear Tires and all are 275/35/20, H&R Springs all around w/rear cut 1/2", 1" hubcentric wheel spacers m14 1.5 stud/lug conversion, R1 Concepts Geomet slotted/drilled rotors with Heavy Duty Semi Metallic pads, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge.
Currently World's Fastest Ecoboost SHO
11.063 @ 123.17 MPH!  NED 10/10/20

StealBlueSho

I have had no problems holding more than 15psi at redline with my GH tune after the IC install...

With my GH tune I hold 17ish psi and it drops to 15ish at redline...

With my LMS tune I hold 15psi and drop to about 14psi at redline..

All post IC install.

ZSHO

Quote from: Gjkrisa on February 21, 2019, 02:12:58 PM
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 01:58:50 PM
^ Gjkrisa that is interesting that you said that.  The seems the rear driver side came undone around that speed for me as well.  I know they weren't loose.  I was under the car earlier and always check them.  I have noticed some play in them however. So all new hardware is on the docket for the skid plate.
Yeah after my 2nd oil change I noticed they had replaced all the hardware I thought it was because they found the quick connects were not staying screwed in but I think it's really because there is to much down force on that panel at higher speeds.
I wounded what just getting out the vent would do?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
The shield cover acts as an aerodynamic feature and without that cover ON it will indeed push (air) Force up towards the Hood causing it to shake and vibration @ highway speeds. Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Gjkrisa

Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2019, 03:23:09 PM
Quote from: Gjkrisa on February 21, 2019, 02:12:58 PM
Quote from: sm105k on February 21, 2019, 01:58:50 PM
^ Gjkrisa that is interesting that you said that.  The seems the rear driver side came undone around that speed for me as well.  I know they weren't loose.  I was under the car earlier and always check them.  I have noticed some play in them however. So all new hardware is on the docket for the skid plate.
Yeah after my 2nd oil change I noticed they had replaced all the hardware I thought it was because they found the quick connects were not staying screwed in but I think it's really because there is to much down force on that panel at higher speeds.
I wounded what just getting out the vent would do?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
The shield cover acts as an aerodynamic feature and without that cover ON it will indeed push (air) Force up towards the Hood causing it to shake and vibration @ highway speeds. Z
Not talking about removing the cover but they designed an air vent into it that that left covered wonder what would happen if that was cut out.
It's open on the flex I believe.
I was going to open that spot on my fiberglass one but it may be best to leave it closed and maybe just make it more flat. Except add some wooden dowls or honey comb mesh to make it stronger.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

2016 Taurus SHO pp Shadow Black
diy emblems,jms boost max, FORscan modder

ClearwaterSHO

I installed the GH IC today!! YAY! I would say my 93 tune from AJP feels the same as my E30 tune did before the IC. Only way to really tell is to take her to the track. She will be running in Street Wars this weekend Domestic vs Imports at Bradenton Motorsports Park.
2013 NON-PP SHO Tuxedo Black
Unleashed 3 Bar Tune -12.865 @ 106.5
AJP POWERED Tune - 12.59 @ 108.?

Mods: GH Intercooler, E30 Tune by AJPTurbo, SW Catless DP's, H&R Springs, MSD Coils (Is this a mod?)

Jordan

When I bought my sho it didn't have the cover. Oops plenty of high speed runs in Mexico. I really want to buy a flex one with the ventilation
World's Fastest SHO Ecoboost July 2019 - Current

2020 Power Numbers - 536AWHP/647Torque