What have you done to your Ecoboosted vehicle today?

[SHOdded]

I think it would tell us how many miles likely left under the POs driving style LOL.  Never heard of Daytona, but have heard of Coastal.  Have a friend in the Midwest whose servicing center uses Coastal regularly.

[sholxgt]

I think it would tell us how many miles likely left under the POs driving style LOL.  Never heard of Daytona, but have heard of Coastal.  Have a friend in the Midwest whose servicing center uses Coastal regularly.

Both are made by Warren Oil.  They make quite a few brands and specialize in supplying smaller shops with higher quality fluids that they back with big warranties.  Their transmission fluids even come with a 10,000 mile guarantee on the transmission not failing.  Or something like that.  They supplied me with 3 gallons of a full synthetic universal transmission fluid, but I didn't feel safe using it for this car.  I gave it to the driveline tech.  He will find a good use for it I'm sure.

I'm normally a brand name snob when it comes to fluids, but a few of the mechanics I respect within my wife's dealer network swear by Daytona/Coastal and use it in their personal stuff.  I would not have considered it if it weren't full synthetic. 

Here's the PDS on the gear lube... http://www.warrenoil.com/MSDS-Spec/PDS/Coastal/PDS%20-%20Coastal%20Full%20Synthetic%20GL-5%20Gear%20Oils.pdf

[SHOdded]

Motorcraft 75W90:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%20Full%20Synthetic%20Manual%20Transmission%20Fluid.pdf
Motorcraft 75W140:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%2075W140%20High%20Performance%20Rear%20Axle%20Lubricant.pdf

for comparison.

Look at the Motorcraft 75W90 VI, holy cow, that's good!  But yeah, looks like good specs on the Warren stuff.

[sholxgt]

I am not an oil expert, but I think those show that the Coastal gear oil probably uses a better base stock since it has a higher flash point and lower Viscosity Index, but the Motorcraft seems to be better in regards to pour point temperatures.  I also see that Motorcraft's 75-90 is a GL-4 fluid where Coastal is a GL-5.  The specs seem to show that the Motorcraft 75-90 is not as good of a fluid as their 75-140.  I had the parts guy at the dealership once tell me that the Motorcraft 75-90 is not a true synthetic despite what it says on the bottle, but I blew it off.

Looking at Amsoil to compare as well, it seems closer to the specs of Coastal.  http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2043.pdf

SHOdded, do you have a better interpretation?  As I said, I'm no expert.

[SHOdded]

Right on, the one thing being a higher VI is a good thing.  Means more resistance to change in viscosity properties, which generally means a longer service life for the fluid in question.  RDU fluid in these cars is rarely ever an issue, it's been the PTU for some reason (yes, many have speculated ...) and that too primarily in the SHO (could be skewed statistically by production numbers).

[J_C]

Just did an oil change and made the switch from Motorcraft over to Amsoil Signature series. I was only at 2400 miles this interval but hard miles with track time and datalogging.

[SHOdded]

Cool   Look forward to results!

[sholxgt]

Just finished doing the passenger side front brakes.  PP caliper, Raybestos police rotor, and Bendix Police pads installed.  Time to spend time with the family now.  Will do the drivers side tomorrow and then pray that I can get the system bled easily.  Have 2 liters of ATE Typ200.  Hopefully it goes smoothly and that will be enough to fully flush and fill.

[L1gerZero]

Is the police equipment better than the PP standard equipment? I have brakes coming up soon and if i can upgrade i would like to

[sholxgt]

Is the police equipment better than the PP standard equipment? I have brakes coming up soon and if i can upgrade i would like to

I truly do not know.  I'm sure that the factory Motorcraft PP stuff is excellent.  I'm generally pretty happy with Motorcraft.  My primary reason for trying the Police stuff is that we've had several Panther chassis (crown vic, grand marquis, town car) cars in the family and the Crown Vic Police Interceptor brakes were amazing as far as fade resistance and ability to handle abuse over 30,000 plus miles.  The others were horrible.

In the case of the SHO with PP, I think that you already have the same equipment as the Interceptor Sedan.  I think that's the most important, is to run the PP or Interceptor parts. 

[SHOdded]

PP pads have usually proven themselves to be trackworthy, so they are definitely a good product.  But if you/your drive are hard on the brakes, police pads should be at least as good, if not better.  In theory.

[hawkeye93]

Installed the NGK 6510 plugs, 170* thermostat, and Lockpick that I took off my ExSport.  Datalogging tonight, first logs with the SHO & Torrie's tune.

[sholxgt]

Finished the brake job.  The car stops well and they are now quiet, but the pedal is still really spongy.  Was hoping it would improve, but it didn't.  I bled the heck out of all four corners.

Does everyone have a spongy pedal?  I'd really like more initial bite.  If I pump the brakes like it's an old fashioned car, they firm up, but in normal driving the pedal does little for the first 1/4 and then has little feel or effect to about half way.  They then work well.



Side note...the factory rotors weighed 25.5 lbs and the Raybestos Police rotors weighed 29.5 lbs.

[L1gerZero]

Yeah mines pretty spongy too. I went and had ford to a flush a fill of the fluid for me and it didn't change much.

[SHOdded]

Installed the NGK 6510 plugs, 170* thermostat, and Lockpick that I took off my ExSport.  Datalogging tonight, first logs with the SHO & Torrie's tune.

Good luck!

Finished the brake job.  The car stops well and they are now quiet, but the pedal is still really spongy.

Brakes look good, interesting rotors, never seen that setup before.  May have to go to stainless brake lines before pedal feel improves.

MC Testing:
Brake Master Cylinder — Bypass Condition

Inspect the master cylinder. Refer to Brake System Inspection in this section.
Disconnect the brake tubes from the master cylinder.
Plug the outlet ports of the master cylinder.
NOTE: Make sure that the outlet port plugs do not show signs of leakage.

Lightly apply the brakes and hold for 10 seconds. Release the brakes and then reapply with heavy force. If brake pedal height cannot be maintained, the brake master cylinder has an internal leak and a new brake master cylinder must be installed.
If brake pedal height is maintained, reinstall brake tubes and tighten to specifications. Refer to Specifications in this section. After installation, bleed the brake system. Refer to Brake System Bleeding in this section.
 
Brake Master Cylinder — Compensator Port

Inspect the master cylinder. Refer to Brake System Inspection in this section.
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. Refer to Section 100-02 .
Apply and release the brakes.
With the brakes released, attempt to rotate each wheel and check for any brake drag.
If an excessive amount of brake drag exists at multiple wheels, continue to Step 5.
If an excessive amount of brake drag exists at only one wheel, it indicates a possible seized brake caliper, brake wheel cylinder or parking brake component. Repair or install new components as necessary.
Check the brake stoplamp switch and the brake pedal free play to verify that the brake pedal is not partially applied.
Loosen the brake master cylinder nuts and position the brake master cylinder away from the brake booster.
With the brakes released, attempt to rotate each wheel and check for any brake drag.
If the brake drag is no longer present, install a new brake booster. Refer to Section 206-07 .
If the brake drag is still present, install a new master cylinder. Refer to Section 206-06 .