• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

2010-13 Black Headlight Housing

Started by BDayks, May 11, 2014, 09:21:37 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

BDayks

Okay before I start, this project is not for people who do not like running risks or want things done quickly.It took around 18-25 hours to complete due to work and issues I ran into so make sure you have enough time to do this. PLEASE PLEASE read all the step and do some research yourself, again this is a lot of work!.

*Its very possible and easy to damage and or ruin your headlights doing this, you have been warned.

**Before you start make sure you have an oven that will fit your headlights, if you don't you'll need a heat gun and a lot of patience. I would almost say that without the oven it is close to impossible to get the headlights separated

You will need
- socket set
- flat head and a small philips screwdrivers 
- large oven
- possibly silicone caulking
- razor utility knife
and patience !

Step 1
First things first you need to remove your bumper to get to your headlights. Mike has a great how to on this so just follow his post  http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,521.msg3154.html#msg3154 

Step 2
So now you have no bumper! Good luck, figure the rest out!....:)

Alright so set your bumper of to the side in a safe place or prep for other work you want to do with it, time for the lights!
There are 3 bolts and one plastic tab/fastener that holds these bad boys in.


Remove the lights careful to not pull them out too far (you need to remove the 3 light harnesses).
*The headlights may need a slight tug and pull to come off, I find it best to grab the headlight and kinda of shimmy it out side to side

here is a pic with the light out showing the bolt holes



Step 3

Time for the prep! remove all bulbs from the housing and set off to the side.
Remove the single (ONLY) small screw on the side of the light

Tape off the holes so no contaminates can get in it will also prevent you from putting your fingers in when you separate the housing from the lens (you dont want to grab any fragile plastic inside)
also tape off the lens to avoid heat damage to the lens (* wont stop if it is baked too long)



Okay so here we are at the point of no return once you start this step you should be fully committed to this mod. Again you can seriously mess things up here which may result in you needing to buy new headlights 



Step 4

Baking time.
Now there are different ways you can do this
1. 220-235'F for 15-20min (I choose this option because I was unsure of the heat on the plastic)

2. 260-270'F for 5-7min ( Probably would do this option if i had to do it again BUT DO TAPE THE LENS)

3. Heat gun for Forever ( wouldn't recommend)

once you have chosen you're method of baking throw your headlight in!

Here is a couple of videos to see what your trying to do 
TRS Tips: Baking and Opening Headlight Assemblies (sealed with Butyl Rubber) How to Open & Paint Headlights by DECALFX.COM

Notes
I found that the butyl rubber (glue that is sealing the lights) was very heat resistant and was not very flexible so I had to do a lot of pulling it didn't become gooey like in the videos still, managed to separate them though just made it a bit harder to seal them later.
Also, Our lights have a "stem" on the end for alignment be sure to not melt or brake them as I did with both :(
if you do you will have to remake them or the headlight will sink into the side of the fender and look like s***

Step 5

Get some gloves!
remove the headlights from the heat use a Flathead and or butter knife to pry and separate the lens from the housing. Start in the corner were the signal light is, there large amount of plastic that is not visible when the headlight is on the car so if scratches or cracks a little you cant see it.
Once you have a good separation started get your fingers in there and pull apart (make sure the tabs holding the lens in are pulled away *they should be soft from the heat and easily flexible)
You will hear some popping and cracking noises just be cautious not to pull to fast or hard, slowly pull and separate with as much force as you need.
If you cant separate them or they are still sealed really well you can repeat Step 4 just be careful to not over bake your lights and damage them.

Step 6

Once your lights are apart you will see that the projector and turning signal are attached to the housing and the plastic and faux chrome are attached to the lens there are about 8 small screws holding them into the lens un-screw them to remove the plastic

* keep the lens clean, you dont want to seal it and have dog/cat/human hair or dust in it!

Step 7

Paint! so choose your colour (I'm Canadian!) and what you want to do and paint away

I used plastidip because I could then remove the faux chrome parts of the light without having to tape them off, but doing this can lead to its own problems.
I had to repaint the parts twice because when I was removing the plastidip it would catch and pull the parts I didn't want off . This is where the very sharp razor and steady hand comes in to make the cut/line of where you want the paint to separate.



once painting is complete resemble the lens and painted plastic 
 

Step 7

Time to re-seal and weather proof
If you managed to get the buytl glue to become stringy and melt this will be easy for you all you have to do is bake your housing again and press the lens in exact opposite of the way you removed them (start by placing the end in where the screw is and then move your way down to the end you pried open first) then once your confident of the alignment and fitment clamp them closed or use ratchet straps to put pressure on them you can also you vise grips . Make sure the glue has resealed all edges around the lens and housing "essentially air and water tight"

If your headlights are like mine, the glue will have stayed in shape and not become stringy just flexible. so you need to go get yourself some shower/bath grade silicone caulk (clear or black your choice) to reseal and weather proof them. follow the same steps above and try to get the best fit. you may have to remove and or cut away some of the glue for a better fitment once the alignment and fitment is good clamp them closed. silicone the edges all around to create a seal and let them dry

Step 8

Reinstall lights and bumper get a chair with your favorite beverage and look at the fine work you just completed!





I hope this is easy to follow, first how-to! Good luck with your projects!





     

ford4thot

Looks beautiful..nice writeup too

Fired from the other forum

BiGMaC


•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

SHOdded

Thanks for the writeup!  An IPA (isopropyl alcohol, 70%) wipedown just before putting the lights back together should help get rid of stray debris and fingerprints/oils.  Hairnet or shower cap and nitrile gloves wouldn't hurt either :)
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

n8rfastback

Oh man. I really want to do this but I don't know how bad I really want to bake my lights... Lol. Maybe if I had a spare set of lights I would try it.
2010 SHO

BDayks

Quote from: n8rfastback on May 12, 2014, 04:43:47 PM
Oh man. I really want to do this but I don't know how bad I really want to bake my lights... Lol. Maybe if I had a spare set of lights I would try it.

I thought the same thing before I started so what I did was put a little money aside and had the headlights in my shopping cart online just incase!. But if you take your time and just be cautious you should be good!.

If you do want to do this or anyone else wants to and you have any question pm and I'll try to help out as best I can!

68_GT

I baked abd disassembled my previous G35 hedlights to split the housings to convert the halogens to factory HID's. It's no big deal really.

Personally I'd buy some used headlughts and get them psinted up then take my car apart to put the new ones in. Plus you have a secomd set to keep just in case and a time saving on down time. Just sell or keep your original headlights.

you converts to HID while youre at it ?
2013 PP SHO LMS 93V10 tune, 170* T stat, 3bar, K&N drop in, plugs re-gapped, 4in exhaust tips.
UPDATE - 130K miles =blown engine. Unleashed tune and EBPP upgrade turbo billet wheels / Turbo Smart WGA's on a bran new long block. Let's get this SHO on the road !

2013 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB daily driver ;) - LMS 93 tune and CPE intercooler

BDayks

Quote from: 68_GT on May 14, 2014, 10:35:58 AM
I baked abd disassembled my previous G35 hedlights to split the housings to convert the halogens to factory HID's. It's no big deal really.

Personally I'd buy some used headlughts and get them psinted up then take my car apart to put the new ones in. Plus you have a secomd set to keep just in case and a time saving on down time. Just sell or keep your original headlights.

you converts to HID while your at it ?

Yeah, i just didn't want to spend the money unless I had to im saving for a few things like rims, downpipes, exhaust, tune etc. But your right its not so bad I just want people to appreciate that yes it may not be that hard to do but a lot can go wrong. And yep for some reason the Canadian SHO didn't come with HID!  :dunno:
so I installed some before this project but it was a PITA and my big ape hands couldn't mount the bulb properly so I did it all when I took the head lights out


 

explorergotoluvit

I found that the butyl rubber (glue that is sealing the lights) was very heat resistant and was not very flexible so I had to do a lot of pulling it didn't become gooey like in the videos still, managed to separate them though just made it a bit harder to seal them later.

YES the company lightwerkz that did my lights said that newer fords like ours are one of these hardest to get apart. I have taken apart many Subaru lights and to me it was hard so can't imagine doing these headlights
2013 explorer sport
LMS tuner stat 160 3 bar magna flow v8 91 map
k&n H&R spring
retrofit FXR bi-xenon projectors done by lightwerkz 
all lights replaced with leds from daytimebrightlites