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Paint or plastidip?

Started by FracaSHO, April 20, 2014, 10:34:02 AM

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FracaSHO

So I am planning some exterior work on my front grille, maybe the door and deck lid trim, and maybe the lower bumpers and side skirts (the black plastic pieces around the lower parts of the car).  I have 2 options:

1) Plastidip black with glossifier. 
Pros: easy to apply, removable, can be easily fixed.
Cons: doesn't look as nice, doesn't last forever.

2) Paint with gloss black rustoleum, or dupli color. I know the trim would need to be prepped, what about the plastic pieces?
Pros: Probably look much better, last longer.
Cons: harder to apply, can't remove, not as easy to fix.

I am not a painter but I don't have the money to pay a professional to do it.  If I did paint, should I do a layer or 2 of clear when finished?  What does everyone think?  Thanks.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone
Brad
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO w/ PP

BiGMaC

Quote from: FracaSHO on April 20, 2014, 10:34:02 AM
So I am planning some exterior work on my front grille, maybe the door and deck lid trim, and maybe the lower bumpers and side skirts (the black plastic pieces around the lower parts of the car).  I have 2 options:

1) Plastidip black with glossifier. 
Pros: easy to apply, removable, can be easily fixed.
Cons: doesn't look as nice, doesn't last forever.

2) Paint with gloss black rustoleum, or dupli color. I know the trim would need to be prepped, what about the plastic pieces?
Pros: Probably look much better, last longer.
Cons: harder to apply, can't remove, not as easy to fix.

I am not a painter but I don't have the money to pay a professional to do it.  If I did paint, should I do a layer or 2 of clear when finished?  What does everyone think?  Thanks.

Brad... Depends on you level of certainty... I personally sweat blood deciding on a mod (looks like you do too, LOL)  I'd plastipdip first to see if I really liked it (the second time I sweat blood over aesthetic mods)... you could even like it but want it a little different that what your first try was.... plastidip is easier to modify.
In this event do plastidip.

If I were going to paint I would use OEM paint and not rattle-can it for the best appearance...and I would definitely remove the parts, paint... and replace. This approach is a bit more costly than plastidip.

Personal opinion... plastidip for now... once you decide you like it convert to paint at your leisure.

Just my 2 cents.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

K4U2LUZ2

PLASTI-DIP!!!  I did mine a year ago and its perfect and i drive fast and hard in very harsh Michigan conditions.  On another car I had a body shop paint a grille and it was trashed in less than a year under the same conditions. 

In fact I am so impressed with the plasti-dip I may do the whole car since Ford's paint is terrible.

bigmoneycloser

How do you clean/maintain the plasti dip?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2014 Explorer Sport 401A
22x10.5 Vossen CVT- powder coated Matte Graphite
Pirelli Scorpion Zero Asimmetrico 285/35/22
H & R lowering springs/LMS 93 high boost/AirAid CAI/170* thermostat/3 Bar Map Sensor/Full LED interior /HID head and fog lights/weather tech digital floor mats/SharkFin antena/custom Billet foot pedals/Wilwood big brake kit/ LMS-Corsa CatBack Exhaust/LMS Catted Downpipes

K4U2LUZ2

Just like you wash the rest of the car. Once the plastic-dip is hardened in the sun for a few days it's solid and durable.

SHO-TYM

Go Plasti Dip.  I have had it on so many cars I lost count.  Lasts a really long time..... worst case scenario peel it off and respray.  Here are a couple pictures of plasti dip on my 2011 SHO.  Took an hour to do all 4 wheels and grille.  AND it doesn't ruin the wheels by turning them "forever" black.  When I go to sell the vehicle in the future, I can just peel and take it back to stock to expand my sales market.  Think further into the future, and nothing else makes much sense but plasti dip.  I chose not to use the Glossifier on mine just to see if I liked it as flat black. I like it for now, but either way, I can always change it quickly in the future.  Let me know if you have any questions about applying it.  I have found some good techniques to keep the orange peel out of the Plasti Dip.  I learned a lot of the techniques by watching the guys over at www.dipyourcar.com  They are really good at what they do.
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP, Livernois Motorsports Windstorm Intake, LME Stage 4+X Meth Tune, 160* thermostat, new motorcraft plugs gapped at .028. 3 Bar Map Sensor, LMS non-catted down pipes, Corsa Catback System, ALKY Methanol Injection, LED Puddle Lights, and (ATP upgraded turbos on the way)
Road & Track Article
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a25497/this-is-what-a-550-hp-ford-taurus-sho-looks-like/

steve142857

Quote from: bigmoneycloser on April 25, 2014, 10:06:19 PM
How do you clean/maintain the plasti dip?


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You should not use wax or bug removers on plastidip. Just water and light soap, preferably ones sold especially for plastidip.

To answer the OP question, definitely plastidip... But I'd still hire a pro to do it. It will look much better if shooted with a paint gun than from the can. Smoother and more homogene finish.

Good luck!
2010 blue wrapped SHO 12.09 at 117.9mph - SOLD
2013 SHO PP 12.08 at 113.83mph...
Alky control, LMS tuned, custom exhaust, LMS catted downpipes, H&R springs, Tstat170, 3bar map, Airaid

elund126

On your picture of the wheels, is that just flat black, or does it have glossifier on top?
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO
Windows Tinted, SP-534, 3-bar, Unleashed Tuning

SHO-TYM

Quote from: elund126 on July 08, 2014, 12:32:31 AM
On your picture of the wheels, is that just flat black, or does it have glossifier on top?

That is with flat black Plasti Dip ONLY.  I chose not to use any glossifier on any of it.  Super smooth finish, and people think they were professionally "painted".
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP, Livernois Motorsports Windstorm Intake, LME Stage 4+X Meth Tune, 160* thermostat, new motorcraft plugs gapped at .028. 3 Bar Map Sensor, LMS non-catted down pipes, Corsa Catback System, ALKY Methanol Injection, LED Puddle Lights, and (ATP upgraded turbos on the way)
Road & Track Article
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a25497/this-is-what-a-550-hp-ford-taurus-sho-looks-like/

elund126

Quote from: SHO-TYM on July 08, 2014, 08:22:25 AM
Quote from: elund126 on July 08, 2014, 12:32:31 AM
On your picture of the wheels, is that just flat black, or does it have glossifier on top?

That is with flat black Plasti Dip ONLY.  I chose not to use any glossifier on any of it.  Super smooth finish, and people think they were professionally "painted".

I did the chrome trim around my tail lights with the flat black. It turned out good. I have a couple of spots that are peeling off now, so I will have to shoot it again. The picture of your wheels looks alot shinier then the trim on my car. I like it!
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO
Windows Tinted, SP-534, 3-bar, Unleashed Tuning

SHO-TYM

Quote from: elund126 on July 08, 2014, 10:20:03 AM
Quote from: SHO-TYM on July 08, 2014, 08:22:25 AM
Quote from: elund126 on July 08, 2014, 12:32:31 AM
On your picture of the wheels, is that just flat black, or does it have glossifier on top?

That is with flat black Plasti Dip ONLY.  I chose not to use any glossifier on any of it.  Super smooth finish, and people think they were professionally "painted".

I did the chrome trim around my tail lights with the flat black. It turned out good. I have a couple of spots that are peeling off now, so I will have to shoot it again. The picture of your wheels looks alot shinier then the trim on my car. I like it!

Thanks! I thought they were going to need to glossifier, but I put down a thin 1st coat of flat black, and then I laid 4 heavy coats on top of that, and it turned out AMAZING. The wheels already had a great look from the factory, but then to be able to change the color without ruining the wheels is priceless. Feel free to email me anytime if you have questions. curt7448@gmail.com  that will be the quickest way to get a hold of me.  Good luck!
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP, Livernois Motorsports Windstorm Intake, LME Stage 4+X Meth Tune, 160* thermostat, new motorcraft plugs gapped at .028. 3 Bar Map Sensor, LMS non-catted down pipes, Corsa Catback System, ALKY Methanol Injection, LED Puddle Lights, and (ATP upgraded turbos on the way)
Road & Track Article
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a25497/this-is-what-a-550-hp-ford-taurus-sho-looks-like/

steve142857

Quote from: elund126 on July 08, 2014, 12:32:31 AM
On your picture of the wheels, is that just flat black, or does it have glossifier on top?
I had my OEM 20" wheels plastidipped on my 2010. You can apply tire shine on it once cleaned and they will shine and look amazing. Plastidip on wheels can be removed, but a lite more difficult because of the heat from the brakes, they cook on the wheels. It took about one hour per wheel.
I kept those wheels for my 2013 and now they are painted in tuxedo black and they look better than ever... But it came more expensive than plastidip (660$ for the 4 mags including sand paper for repair, 3 coats of tuxedo black, 2 clears and baked 2 times). Not to shabby imo.
2010 blue wrapped SHO 12.09 at 117.9mph - SOLD
2013 SHO PP 12.08 at 113.83mph...
Alky control, LMS tuned, custom exhaust, LMS catted downpipes, H&R springs, Tstat170, 3bar map, Airaid