• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

Surging Power under Moderate Acceleration

Started by sweetair, March 31, 2014, 06:57:59 AM

Previous topic - Next topic
Print
Go Down Pages1
User actions

sweetair

March 31, 2014, 06:57:59 AM
I have noticed recently that my 2013 SHO w/PP has done just that. Under moderate acceleration there is a surging of power. Power is there, hesitates, more power, hesitates again and doesn't even get over 3500 rpm. If I put it in S she will wind out to 5K but there still is a hesitation.

Is there a TSB for this?  Might it be clogged fuel injectors, throttle body, or an issue with the turbos?  The car has 12700 mikes or so.

Really hate bringing her into the dealer but kinda want this to go away.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

SHOdded

#1
March 31, 2014, 07:26:53 AM
Could be a dirty throttle body from a leaking turbo (oil).  Check that all hose clamps in the engine bay are firmly tightened.

No smoke/smells/visual indicators etc?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Needmoreboost

#2
March 31, 2014, 09:43:25 AM
May pull and check/change factory plugs.  I believe everyone that has done this has reported widely varying plug gaps.  .030 is what you want.  Also check that knock sensor wire for any chaffing.
2014 Mustang GT/CS: white
Auto with custom Unleashed Tuning
Past honorable mentions: 13 SHO, 08 SRT4, 07 350Z, 03 Cobra, 03 Focus SVT, 00 GT Mustang, 91 LX Notch, etc.

BiGMaC

#3
March 31, 2014, 10:05:26 AM Last Edit: March 31, 2014, 11:37:28 AM by BiGMaC
Quote from: Needmoreboost on March 31, 2014, 09:43:25 AM
May pull and check/change factory plugs.  I believe everyone that has done this has reported widely varying plug gaps.  .030 is what you want.  Also check that knock sensor wire for any chaffing.

My thoughts exactly! If you're not tuned I'd stay with the .035 OEM gap... but definitely check the plugs

If it's not a mechanical cause, like plug failure/, then I would consider something creating knock as timing advances or similar issue that would cause the ECU to cut power as engine protection.... If you don't have a way to look for DTCs, maybe go by an Autozone (or other parts house with the service) and let them hook up the OBDII and look.  (free)

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

MDesign Performance

#4
March 31, 2014, 11:00:03 AM
Could be water in the intercooler, there's a lawsuit about that currently.

http://www.gelaw.com/ford/ecoboost.php
2011 MKS EcoBoost: MDesign Carbon Cold Air Intake; SP-534 Plugs; Power Stop C/S Rotors

sales@mdesignperformance.com
www.mdesignperformance.com
www.facebook.com/MDesignPerformance

BiGMaC

#5
March 31, 2014, 11:43:52 AM
Quote from: Spartn27 on March 31, 2014, 11:00:03 AM
Could be water in the intercooler, there's a lawsuit about that currently.

http://www.gelaw.com/ford/ecoboost.php

Possible, but haven't personally heard of this in the SHO, only F150 EB.... and if it goes into limp home mode it won't really surge... just "limp" from ECU detecting water in the air intake.

IMHO... Check the plugs first for function and gap, check the knock sensor wires for chaffing/short below the T-stat housing, and get an OBDII reading for DTCs before you worry about water in the IC.  It could also be an early failure of a coil or a loose wire in the ignition circuit.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

sweetair

#6
March 31, 2014, 02:05:08 PM
Thank you all for the replies. I have set up a visit for this Thursday at my dealer.  I am hoping they can come up with something. 

She runs fine.  No odd smells like burning oil, no extra noises, and under driving conditions like you are trying to get the best possible mileage, ie:keeping your right foot out of it, she drives normal.  Give her a little gas to get into it and then there is the surging.

I'll keep the group updated.

Thanks again.

Bill

SeriousFrank

#7
March 31, 2014, 03:35:48 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on March 31, 2014, 10:05:26 AM
Quote from: Needmoreboost on March 31, 2014, 09:43:25 AM
May pull and check/change factory plugs.  I believe everyone that has done this has reported widely varying plug gaps.  .030 is what you want.  Also check that knock sensor wire for any chaffing.

My thoughts exactly! If you're not tuned I'd stay with the .035 OEM gap... but definitely check the plugs

If it's not a mechanical cause, like plug failure/, then I would consider something creating knock as timing advances or similar issue that would cause the ECU to cut power as engine protection.... If you don't have a way to look for DTCs, maybe go by an Autozone (or other parts house with the service) and let them hook up the OBDII and look.  (free)

This... ^

Actually  I have a different car, but I have had the same similar issue that you are describing. The stuttering right? Trying to accelerate, but it doesn't feel like the car is letting you , but eventually it will get up to speed again and stutter ?

Dealer told me the first time it happened to my car ( SRT-4 05 ) had a part in the manifold sucked in  , like a gasket.. ( I think it was bull ) - That fixed it temporally, until it started happening  again...

Turned out I had a loose sensor issue which could have been caused by vibrations  other than the engine itself...

sometimes its the little things .
Print
Go Up Pages1
User actions