• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

Aeroforce Gauges for your Ecoboost vehicle

Started by EcoPowerParts, February 19, 2014, 01:37:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

forcefedjunkie

Quote from: Brucelinc on March 21, 2014, 10:24:42 AM
Quote from: TSS on March 21, 2014, 10:04:15 AM
Okay, new duh question:  I removed the "jumper" on the back of mine (because I thought it was a mounting bracket and I did not need it). And I wanted the gauge to be as light and compact as possible.   Duh.  Anyway I have only ONE gauge and it is functioning as it should.  Any reason for me to add the Jumper/bracket back at this point? "

Todd, what are you calling a jumper/bracket?  The U shaped thing that goes over the 2 studs on the back is only for mounting purposes unless I am crazy.  You shouldn't need that for your installation - I hope.  I don't plan on using it.  I made a mounting bracket out of aluminum angle.

The bracket and electrical jumper are two different things.  The 2 pin jumper is a small black "Connector" that attached to the two small pins next to the OBD2 connector on the back of the gauge.  The bracket is the silver metal pieced that can be used for mounting the gauge.

Todd
2013 SHO

Brucelinc

I am really enjoying this gauge and am continuing to learn more about how to use some of the features.  I wouldn't say that the manual is the best I have ever seen but with trial and error, I am getting all the information that I could hope for.

Although there is no glare from the sun, I have found that with sunglasses on, I can't see the numbers on the gauge.  I should also say that with sunglasses on, I cannot read the car's message center, either, so that probably says more about my sunglasses or my eyes than it does the gauge.

One puzzling thing for me:  Sometimes, when I start the car, the gauge boots up within a couple of seconds.  Other times, it might take as long as a minute or even more to come alive.  Any idea why the inconsistency?

TSS

#152
on startup, I have the same exact situation Bruce. Most of the time it comes on almost instantly but sometimes it can take up to 60 seconds. As far as the glare, if your sunglasses are polarized, you can encounter those types of issues.

I have non polarized Ray Bans and never have issues.   Also have polarized Maui Jims, and sometimes have issues with the Tint in my car (its called the rainbow effect) and screens.
2010 Steel Blue Metallic MKS Ecoboost: LME 3-Bar Tuned; tint; 20" Factory rims Permachromed

2017 Summit White Buick Envision Premium AWD 2.0 Turbo
2017 Silver Cadillac XTS V-Sport Platinum  3.6 Twin Turbo; LME tuned.

ayerse07

In regards to the startup time of the gauges:

I was having the same problem when I was trying to power my gauges via the obd port. What I learned from Todd, however, if you hard power it via the red cable to a 12volt source they will start up instantaneous and simultaneously when you turn the ignition. The one thing you do have to make sure of is to re-set up the gauges and DO-NOT select ecoboost when it asks. If you select ecoboost then you will not see a difference in the startup time and sequence. All of the features still worked for me.

forcefedjunkie

On a typical installation the gauges are powered by the OBD2 port which has constant battery power.  Thus the gauge must "go to sleep" and "wake up" when the car is turned off/on.  When it gets no response from the car is goes into sleep mode, when it sees data on the bus again it wakes up.  Without getting into too many details this is why the turn on time is not always the same.  Bus traffic can change if the car was recently turned off and back on, plus we have delays to prevent start-ups when miscellaneous security messages are transmitted when car is locked.  It's very complicated actually.  Ayerse07 gave the solution to this if you want immediate startup every time. 

Todd
2013 SHO

Brucelinc

Thanks, Todd, for the explanation.  I am fine with the inconsistent start-up now that I know it is normal.

For those who want a column mount that is more solid than the mounting shown in the video, it is pretty easy to make a mounting bracket that is attached with 3M tape.  A piece of 1.5 inch aluminum angle from a building materials store, 1/8 inch thickness works well.  All you need is a hack saw and drill.  A dremel tool is nice to have, too.  You only need 2 inches of the angle.  Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the back for the wire to come through.  The dremel tool is nice to square up the hole a bit.  Also drill two holes for the screws on the back of the gauge to come though.  Spray paint the bracket to match the gauge.  The result is a mount with a 1 1/2 by 2 inch mounting surface.  A couple of pieces of 3M  mounting tape gives you a very solid set-up.

Here is what it looks like prior to installing.  Note that you can easily remove the gauge after installation if you need to just be unscrewing the nuts on the back.


You can mount in the center or offset to one side.  If you choose to offset, you will want to use the dremel tool to slot out the mounting holes so the gauge will be horizontal.  (The column tapers on the sides.)





TSS

I predict folks will be asking you to build these for them. 
2010 Steel Blue Metallic MKS Ecoboost: LME 3-Bar Tuned; tint; 20" Factory rims Permachromed

2017 Summit White Buick Envision Premium AWD 2.0 Turbo
2017 Silver Cadillac XTS V-Sport Platinum  3.6 Twin Turbo; LME tuned.

Brucelinc

Quote from: TSS on March 25, 2014, 12:57:54 PM
I predict folks will be asking you to build these for them.

LOL.  No, they will be asking you how the heck you got the cable between the instrument panel lens and the black plastic bezel.  Only YOU could put a 1/4 inch wire through a 1/16 inch space without damaging something.  :)

forcefedjunkie

2013 SHO

BiGMaC


•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

Jake360

Finally got mine in and working great.. Even installed the 2 LEDs from the Alky kit into the POD.. Really happy with how it all came together..




Mods :

2014 Non PP
LMS 91 3 bar Meth tune
LMS Down pipes
Air raid CAI
Corsa Catback (Black Tips)
Alky Meth Kit
3 Bar
H&R Spings
Even Flo Thermostat
20" TSW Nurburgring

2Canches

#161
mines in my vent.  Cause I don't live in Texas or Phoenix ha. 

SHO-TYM

Quote from: forcefedjunkie on March 27, 2014, 05:52:33 PM
New SHO power up screens:



Todd

I like the placement of these Gauges!  What products did you buy? and how do you have them attached?
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP, Livernois Motorsports Windstorm Intake, LME Stage 4+X Meth Tune, 160* thermostat, new motorcraft plugs gapped at .028. 3 Bar Map Sensor, LMS non-catted down pipes, Corsa Catback System, ALKY Methanol Injection, LED Puddle Lights, and (ATP upgraded turbos on the way)
Road & Track Article
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a25497/this-is-what-a-550-hp-ford-taurus-sho-looks-like/

Jake360


Quote from: SHO-TYM on August 15, 2014, 03:06:18 PM
Quote from: forcefedjunkie on March 27, 2014, 05:52:33 PM
New SHO power up screens:



Todd

I like the placement of these Gauges!  What products did you buy? and how do you have them attached?

I like that placement as well but didn't want to drill any holes..

I basically used a dremel and cleared out a slot for the wires to fit thru the back side... It sits so far up against the windshield you can't even see them.. I actually used Loctite Mounting puddy to keep the pod down flush.. It seems to be holding and doesn't damage the dash if you decide to remove it..


Mods :

2014 Non PP
LMS 91 3 bar Meth tune
LMS Down pipes
Air raid CAI
Corsa Catback (Black Tips)
Alky Meth Kit
3 Bar
H&R Spings
Even Flo Thermostat
20" TSW Nurburgring

CroR1

I am bringing this thread back to life, I just received my aeroforce gauges with their duel pod, and not really sure how the gauges secure in the pod. Silly question, but when i slide the gauges in, nothing holds them in the pod, and the metal silver shims provided with the gauges, do not fit into the pod. Any instructions?