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Best Upgrade for Sony Audio '10 SHO

Started by yowen, January 21, 2014, 11:43:16 AM

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yowen

Hey guys, I thought I'd be very happy with the audio in my SHO, given that it's a "premium" system, but it just doesn't have that wow-factor in my opinion. What is the best bang-for-buck upgrade? In other words, what's the equivalent of getting a Stage 4+ upgrade, haha. I don't want to spend a whole lot, I can live with it as it is, but if there is an upgrade I can do for ~300 - 500 dollars, I'd definitely consider it if it'll net me a significant improvement.

Should I be looking into DSP's possible? Or should I, on a limited budget, be looking to replace perhaps the speakers in my doors?

I am mainly interested in improving clarity/crispness of the music. The level of bass in this car is just fine for me.
2010 Taurus SHO, Tuxedo Black
Awaiting Installation: Catless Downpipes, LMS Tune, 3Bar Map Sensor

SRT82ECOBOOST

I have no personal experience with the product, but I bet the JBL MS-8 processor is going to be highly recommended by most for your price range.
2013 SHO PP in White Platinum Metallic Tricoat, PPE Downpipes, Livernois Stage V8/3 Bar, Custom 2.5" Catback, 170 T-stat, Airaid CAI, H+R Springs and debadged
Boston Acoustics 2.1 Audio Upgrade

yowen

Quote from: SRT82ECOBOOST on January 21, 2014, 12:49:58 PM
I have no personal experience with the product, but I bet the JBL MS-8 processor is going to be highly recommended by most for your price range.

I thought there'd be a good chance that would happen, haha. I was just wondering, with all else left stock, if this is a worthwhile upgrade. Or if there is another cost effective way to increase quality/clarity.
2010 Taurus SHO, Tuxedo Black
Awaiting Installation: Catless Downpipes, LMS Tune, 3Bar Map Sensor

Kolk1

Id say if you only have 3-500$, best bang for the buck would be a sub setup. Get the bass off the speakers, and let them only have to worry about mids/highs.

yowen

Quote from: Kolk1 on January 21, 2014, 02:52:21 PM
Id say if you only have 3-500$, best bang for the buck would be a sub setup. Get the bass off the speakers, and let them only have to worry about mids/highs.

Yeah, after reading SRT8ECO's thread it sounds like tuning the bass out of the car-speakers really worked out for him.

Should I be using the Amp just to power the sub, or also possible the front door speakers?

It's mind boggling what all the options are and on top of that we have an already-processed-signal to deal with. Making my head spin sometimes, haha.
2010 Taurus SHO, Tuxedo Black
Awaiting Installation: Catless Downpipes, LMS Tune, 3Bar Map Sensor

Kolk1

Sky is the limit.

Unless you are planning on replacing the fronts, id just start with a sub/amp combo.

If you plan on doing new front components, and some type of signal processor, then yes id amp them. lol

yowen

Quote from: Kolk1 on January 23, 2014, 04:27:42 PM
Sky is the limit.

Unless you are planning on replacing the fronts, id just start with a sub/amp combo.

If you plan on doing new front components, and some type of signal processor, then yes id amp them. lol

So I should get an AMP that can handle more channels when I decide to add front components.

I thought I would need some sort of signal processing to offload the bass off the rest of the system, or is this accomplished just by not letting the signal get to the speakers because it is now going to the AMP?

And thank you for your valuable insight on this.
2010 Taurus SHO, Tuxedo Black
Awaiting Installation: Catless Downpipes, LMS Tune, 3Bar Map Sensor

Lanson

What I like about the MS8 (and I've used it a LOT in builds) is that it is a mild 8ch amp on top of being a very easy to install, calibrate, and use processor.  Channels that don't need major power like center, and rear speakers for instance, can run off the MS8 just fine.  Saves space, money, and all that.

The single largest thing you can do, IMO, is to heavily deaden and seal your car up.  The 2nd is to put the MS8 in.  :)
I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

Kolk1

#8
Quote from: yowen on January 23, 2014, 04:31:57 PM


So I should get an AMP that can handle more channels when I decide to add front components.

I thought I would need some sort of signal processing to offload the bass off the rest of the system, or is this accomplished just by not letting the signal get to the speakers because it is now going to the AMP?

And thank you for your valuable insight on this.

You can get a single multi channel amp that can do everything in one, but they are typically more expensive, and depending on what sub you are planning on doing, hard to find one with enough RMS at the ohm load you need it for it.

IF you added a signal processor it would be after the factory amp, and before your new aftermarket amp. Im sure the signal processor and the Amp will both have some type of High Pass Filter that you can adjust to stop bass from getting to your doors.

Lets back track and say you only did a sub/amp, thats it. What I meant by keeping bass off the doors, was basically instead of having the bass on +4 or +6 like you might have it now, you can turn it down to 0, since the doors no longer have to provide the bass, and you can just adjust the gain on the sub amp to bring the bass back up to your liking.

Sound deadening is great, and I use a ton of it, but once again, until I was pulling the doors and other panels off for speakers, or some other reason, I would hold off on it. No reason to do the same work twice. This is assuming you plan on doing speakers, then id wait and do it all at once. If you never plan on upgrading the speakers, then yes, do it now.

Adding sound deadening, is almost like being able to roll up the windows more. LOL. By lowering the sound floor, and making the panels solid, everything becomes better.

BiGMaC

Quote from: Lanson on January 23, 2014, 05:05:48 PM

The single largest thing you can do, IMO, is to heavily deaden and seal your car up.  The 2nd is to put the MS8 in.  :)

Echo That!!!   :clap2:  ...cut the ambient noise and keep your music in the ride!

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock