My mod list with ?'s

[FracaSHO]

So I have an envelope full of cash locked in my desk at work that's slowly accumulating.  When I have time I am going to make improvements to the exterior look of my SHO care of plasti-dip and my creative, if you can call me creative, touch.  I will post pics when I get to that.  For now, I have made up a list of performance minded mods and I would like your input, advice, suggestions, etc.  I do not plan on purchasing everything at once, so I will start at the top and work my way down as I have the fund$.

1) Tune - I figure this is the best place to start, even on an otherwise stock SHO.  I know Livernois is highly recommended.  I will probably start with a mail order tune, and upgrade as I add mods.  Eventually I am going to do a custom dyno tune. 

2)  Gauges - I recently purchased one of the center gauge pods.  I want to add a Ford Racing boost gauge, and Ford Racing oil pressure gauge.  I am leaning toward an air/fuel gauge for the third, but FR does not have one.  What would you recommend that might go well with the other 2 gauges?  Recommendations for the third gauge other than air/fuel?  Where around Chicago can I have the pod and gauges installed?

3)  Oil/Trans Cooler - I have the How-To's on this courtesy of BPD.  I plan on doing this myself, but if there's someone in the area that could do the install at a reasonable price, I'd probably go that route. 

4)  Exhaust - I will do the install on this myself since I have access to a lift and all the tools needed.  I am torn between the Corsa and Stainless Works.  Pros/cons for both?

5)  Lowering springs - Eaibach or HR seem to be the best options.  The HR's have a little more drop, probably more than I would like, so I am leaning toward the Eibach's.  Again, anyone know a place I can have installed and aligned?

6)  Downpipes - It's between Livernois and Stainless Works, catted.  If I go with the SW exhaust, I would assume go with the SW downpipe.  But what does everyone think?  Are downpipes a PITA to install?  Could I install them with the exhaust with the car on the lift?  If not, where could I go for the install?  Is it better to do the downpipes and exhaust at the same time?

7)  Water Meth Kit - MAYBE.  I am still on the fence with this.

  Turbo upgrades - Here's where the real fun begins.  ATP, of course.  What intercooler and fuel upgrades should go along with upgrading the turbo?  Will I benefit from upgrading intercooler and/or fuel system with the stock turbos?  Seems like water to air intercooler is the only viable option?  What about air to air?  I just like the way they look from the front end of the car.

So that's the list.  Notice I am looking for trustworthy shops to do most of the work.  I am not opposed to making a trip, or shipping my SHO, out to Livernois.  I just don't want to go that far too much.  I also left out a CAI, since the best option seems to be dropping in a K&N air filter.  Anything I have left off?  Thanks.       

[EcoPowerParts]

I can talk about these two things specifically:
6)  Downpipes - It's between Livernois and Stainless Works, catted.  If I go with the SW exhaust, I would assume go with the SW downpipe.  But what does everyone think?  Are downpipes a PITA to install?  Could I install them with the exhaust with the car on the lift?  If not, where could I go for the install?  Is it better to do the downpipes and exhaust at the same time?

Don't use Livernois or SW catted, used their catless. If you want catted downpipes go PPE only because they're "real" cats and will pass emissions and not throw a code. Catless, take your pick whatever is cheapest.

  Turbo upgrades - Here's where the real fun begins.  ATP, of course.  What intercooler and fuel upgrades should go along with upgrading the turbo?  Will I benefit from upgrading intercooler and/or fuel system with the stock turbos?  Seems like water to air intercooler is the only viable option?  What about air to air?  I just like the way they look from the front end of the car.

No intercooler is available for the car, I'll be working on a water to air soon but it will probably be a one off due to costs. You can't fit an air to air in your bumper, just no room there unfortunately that I've seen. The benefit of upgrading the fuel system is running E85 and tuning for it but it's expensive. Cheapest route would be ATP + meth to augment the stock fueling system.

[DJE624]

Great list.  The K&N panel, tune and springs are a must.  That is what I have done and I an very happy with the results.  I might like to get down pipes to use with the stock exhaust someday.  I probably won't go with Methanol.  Just too much trouble for me. 

[bpd1151]

I have a good friend who owns his own shop and has worked with me hand in hand to perform all of the upgrades to my car thus far (minus the tuning).

He's located in Manhattan, IL. and is very reasonably priced.

Everyone I've sent his way, has always been quite complimentary, and thankful for the referral.

Added bonus here is, is that because he's worked on my SHO, as well as a few others in the area, it's becoming old hat to him.

DJE624 went to him for the spring install recently. He can attest to his own experience(s).

But anyhow, of you'd like the contact info, LMK, I'll shoot it over to you via PM.

Regards,

Mike

[bpd1151]

I probably won't go with Methanol.  Just too much trouble for me. 

It's really not "trouble" by any means. That's certainly a stretch.

Install the Alky Controls kit (which unlike other kits, has everything you will need to run it safely i.e. boost controller, etc.) and then make sure you never run out of actual methanol.

There's naysayers to every mod out there, but there's plenty of people on this forum who've been running it, day in, day out, without any issues whatsoever.

No worrying about mixing, no worrying about diluting, just fill and go. Easy as that.

[DJE624]

Yes, Mike's guy Matt in Manhattan is highly recommended.

I don't have any real objections to Methanol.  It's just not for me. 

[FracaSHO]

Don't use Livernois or SW catted, used their catless. If you want catted downpipes go PPE only because they're "real" cats and will pass emissions and not throw a code. Catless, take your pick whatever is cheapest.

If I go catless, will I have any problems passing emissions in IL?


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[EcoPowerParts]

Don't use Livernois or SW catted, used their catless. If you want catted downpipes go PPE only because they're "real" cats and will pass emissions and not throw a code. Catless, take your pick whatever is cheapest.

If I go catless, will I have any problems passing emissions in IL?


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You'll fail according to the IL emissions site.
or when more than one non-continuous readiness monitor is "not ready" for 2001 and newer model year vehicles. Additionally, the catalyst monitor must be "ready" at the time of any re-test after a vehicle failed an initial test for any catalyst code.

[bpd1151]

4DR is absolutely spot on with the IL emissions thing.

I will be facing this dilemma myself in 2014, and as such, since LMS has not been able to find a "work around" yet (right now, my rear 02's, and two other set of sensors although programmed off, so as not to throw a DTC, are not marked as being "ready").

I would STRONGLY recommend you go with hi-flow catted downpipes.

I am lucky in my case, because my mechanic friend is already aware of this, and is willing to put up with the entire nonsense of having to swap out my current catless downpipes, for the OEM factory catted ones.

I'll also have to dump the stock tune file back in, drive around for a while (a few drive cycles) etc etc before going in for testing. Then swap all the crap back around yet again.

Major draw back, but as I was literally THE 1st to have a set of catless downpipes, which were completely hand fab'd, and no other mfg'ers or options were available to me at that the time, that's what I had to roll with.

It's been reported the catless verison is only worth another 3-5whp anyhow.

So, pick the easy, more sane route, and go catted.

[EcoPowerParts]

Just to reiterate only PPE catted pipes will pass emissions, the others will not, they throw a code. I wouldn't care who has them as long as I pass emissions, LMS, PPE or whoever, it just so happens that PPE do pass and others don't.

[FracaSHO]

Just to reiterate only PPE catted pipes will pass emissions, the others will not, they throw a code. I wouldn't care who has them as long as I pass emissions, LMS, PPE or whoever, it just so happens that PPE do pass and others don't.

That's why I ask these questions.  So I can get answers from actual users of products. They are more expensive, but a couple hundred bucks more will be worth it. I had a problem with my 04 F150. Had long tube headers. At first they burned out the O2 sensors, passenger side, then the other. Ford warranted the first 2. I paid for the third at which point the tech fixed the heat shield so it wouldn't happen again. Then the wrench light came on. Catalyst system inefficiency or something like that. I had turn turn off engine light with my Diablo sport, and drive long enough to reset but not too long for the light to come back on to pass emissions. PITA every 2 years.


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[EcoPowerParts]

I agree definitely with the extra couple hundred to save the hassle.

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[FracaSHO]

4DR is absolutely spot on with the IL emissions thing.

I will be facing this dilemma myself in 2014, and as such, since LMS has not been able to find a "work around" yet (right now, my rear 02's, and two other set of sensors although programmed off, so as not to throw a DTC, are not marked as being "ready").

I would STRONGLY recommend you go with hi-flow catted downpipes.

I am lucky in my case, because my mechanic friend is already aware of this, and is willing to put up with the entire nonsense of having to swap out my current catless downpipes, for the OEM factory catted ones.

I'll also have to dump the stock tune file back in, drive around for a while (a few drive cycles) etc etc before going in for testing. Then swap all the crap back around yet again.

Major draw back, but as I was literally THE 1st to have a set of catless downpipes, which were completely hand fab'd, and no other mfg'ers or options were available to me at that the time, that's what I had to roll with.

It's been reported the catless verison is only worth another 3-5whp anyhow.

So, pick the easy, more sane route, and go catted.

My plate renewal comes up in January so I need to get emissions test before that. I got the notice a month ago. So when I do start tuning and playing around, I'll have a good year, year and a half to sort out any bugs before emissions again. The first car I ever owned was and 89 mustang. I always wanted to get another one. Next year it would be 25 years old which means antique plates and NO emissions!


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[EcoBrick Bob]

a PLUS 1 on BPD's "never run out of methanol comment!".    There are other systems that come complete with controller and with options of braided lines, like Devils Own kits.  Only issue is that you have to determine what length braided lines you will need, depending on where you mount your pump. Unless you're a "Methanol Hog" like BPD!!!!!, the hard plastic lines are fine and much cheaper and easier to install... all push in connections.

Commenting on controllers vs simple on/off boost switch for pump....  Controllers are more accurate in amount of methanol sprayed at lower RPM and boost levels vs a on/off switch that comes on at a specific boost level, usually 6 - 8 PSI. When it comes on full blast, at first at mid-range RPM you may see slightly rich conditions of your tune is perfect above 4K to shift point.  However, controllers can also fail, and are much more complex than a simple boost activated on/off boost switch.  If your boost controller fails in ON position, it won't shut off the methanol spray from the pump, which will cause all sorts of issues. (possibly similar to my experience...)  Not sure exactly what happens if you are spraying methanol full tilt when throttle shuts off gasoline to injectors... ??

[bykr]

I was wondering about FracaSHO's comment on the CAI vs. adding a K&N filter.Nothing to be gained with the CAI? I've also heard some negative comments about the K&N filters possible causing issues with the MAF.I have a K&N on my F-150 for years with no issues,anyone have any issues?Thanks,Tim