2010 SHO. Detonation... maybe

[91hybrid]

Sounds like oil induced detonation to me...as the load on the engine is highest right at up shift (especially 3,4,5...due to converter lock up) as the boost is highest there as well. The knock can only pull 7.5 degrees of timing so if the oil ingestion requires the engine to pull 10 degrees but the computer can only pull 7.5 the engine will start pinging.

Your .25" of oil in your innercooler comes from two places... Pcv front clean side vent / suction under boost...and the turbo seals in each turbo.

On my car, I've found that I was able to cut my knock (7.5 to 4.0) by removing the pcv front clean side vent. To run a trial, I just plumbed the port next to the oil fill cap with a 5/8" hose to a small water bottle that I wedged behind the coolant fill/reservior.  Then capped the front turbo intake tube with a 1/2 heater hose cap that I got from advance auto. This does two things: one stops the ingestion back to the intake to see if blow by is responsible for your oil ingestion and secondly, use of the water bottle, you can see if the engine blow by is pumping oil....ie excessive blow by. I ran my car like that for two weeks. It reduced my knock but I still had oil in my innercooler so part of my oil ingestion problems are due to turbo compressor seal leaks.

I'm now working on an rx catch can setup...not the kit they sell though...my own rendition of plumbing and check valves using there can.

Just my experiences.

[RagingPenguin]

I'll take a look into that when I get my Bluetooth obd2 reader. I'll certainly use the suggestion!

Should also mention that the 2-3 shift the car completely failed to go into gear.

[RagingPenguin]

Dealer is under impression that car is fine. They didn't even look at the transmission. Assuming they did their job oil in intercooler should have been cleaned up.
If not I will remove oil from intercooler to remove that possibility and see if transmission makes any more noise.

[SHOdded]

Did they try to replicate the symptoms, or just look for codes?

[RagingPenguin]

Had a tech on a drive with me. Sounds like all they check was piping and sensors.

[RagingPenguin]

Well, I feel like a real heel. It's looking like detonation still.

Got my OBD2 scanner and downloaded torque.
Input PID parameters for KR.

Car is under normal conditions -2.2/0.0
3/4 throttle was 5-6 degrees
WOT was 7 degrees.


Going to check both knock sensors and test them also.

Is there any chance my exhaust and cold air could cause this on a untuned car?

Have also heard that if the oil is a bit old it can cause issues, oil life still shows 37% on car. On dipstick it still looks ok, changing it tomorrow regardless.

[SHOdded]

Putting in fresh oil/filter is a good idea.  Then monitor consumption.  May need to Seafoam or AutoRX to free up piston rings.

Some good tips in this post.  Stock turbo seals have been known to leak in the absence of sufficient backpressure, such as when installing freeflowing downpipes/catbacks.  Sometimes even when all stock/OEM.  In an extreme case, the bearings may be starting to fail.

Does the coolant/coolant level look OK?  It can be tested for the existence of combustion gases.

Now that you have the equipment, you should do a log of basic parameters including RPM, throttle position, vacuum, timing advance, FRP, AFR, and KR.  Does Oil Pressure or Oil Temperature show up on the list of available PIDs?  That would be good too.  The possible drawback being that Torque's fastest sampling is 0.1 seconds, while a tuner device can log much, much faster than that.  Post your results as a spreadsheet/CSV (minus any identifying data of course).

If you can go one step further and get a USB boroscope to look down the plug wells at the cylinder walls/pistons, that would be a good idea.  Or have a mechanic do that for you.  No scoring/pitting/etc.

Still not comfortable with not knowing the PCM status.  If it is tuned, that could open up a whole new can of worms.  Table the thought for now, but keep it in mind.

[RagingPenguin]

Still working on data log, drove car with to grab breakfast this am and noticed 16psi on vac gauge at wot. Is that normal, I always though 12 was normal

[SHOdded]

16 lbs of boost?  That is beyond the reach of the 2 bar MAP (14.7), so unlikely to be accurate.    Could certainly be over boosting trying to compensate for a boost leak from loose/split piping for example.

[RagingPenguin]

Should I consider changing the MAP? It showed 14-16 psi a few times.

[SHOdded]

Car would not be happy at all without a tune for the 3 bar.  It would be better time invested checking the piping, IMHO.

[RagingPenguin]

I meant with another 2 bar, I picked up some MAF cleaner and will try cleaning MAP, IAT and TCBP sensors

[RagingPenguin]

Will also check all piping also

[RagingPenguin]

Piping all seemed fine, cleaned MAP sensors etc, knock sensor wiring was ok.
Noticed a oil collecting at fittings on throttle body gear clamp, however sensors were clean. If I swabbed my finger in pipe before throttle body I could get some oil on my finger. Will do a data log and am going to try another dealer to look at car.
At this point its beyond my ability and what I have access to as far as equipment.

[SHOnUup]

Torque is known to register higher boost #'s than actual.