DRL Switchbacks.

[dalum]

Maybe I can get my damn Tritons working with Jake's help :/

[ShoBoat]

Maybe I can get my damn Tritons working with Jake's help :/

I would give him a call, but what seems to be the issue with yours?

[dalum]

2013 with factory HID and rear leds.  DRL programmed off (stock)
The long story...
I have learned that the bcm monitors these circuits very closely.  If it senses too much current draw it will temporarily disable the output until the turn signal is turned off then on again and set a code in bcm.  If this happens too fast it will kill the output before it can shut itself off. 

I first had the revision 1 of the v3 tritons.  It came with little light bulbs for the load barrel connectors:
The first few tests it blew the parking lamp circuit fuse.  Then testing the turns I would get 1 or 2 flashes of amber then the bcm would switch off its output to that socket (rears still worked), it would go white, and switch to hyperflash.  It would do this with the load bulbs hooked up or not.  I bench tested the units and they weren't pulling anywhere close to the current of the original bulb (even with their load bulbs) so that didn't seem to be the problem.  The socket adapter also seemed correctly wired for the car.  I had the bright idea to turn the turn signal on and off rapidly to try to get it to stay using amber.  This had the wonderful effect of blowing the bcm's output to that socket.  After a fiasco including the dealership installing the wrong bcm for my car I gave up on the idea.

Revision 2 came out with new connectors, a new control unit, and a built in load resistor.  I emailed them and they exchanged me the old version for the new.  The same thing happened but this time it might flash a few times before going into hyperflash and turning solid white.  It did this with the built in load resistor on or off.  I gave up again.

I then found on this forum they had new socket adapters for the newer Fords.  I emailed them and they sent me the new adapters.  They worked much better sitting in my garage for a short test so I fully installed them.  But when I went for a test drive they would randomly switch to hyper flash after being on for several seconds or would hyperflash with solid white when first turned on then work when I switched the signal off then back on (while holding my breath) once.  I don't know if I didn't test them long enough or if the difference between battery or alternator voltage made a difference.  They would do this with the built in load resistor on or off as well.

I learned Forscan can read the bcm codes with my with my obd2 adapter. I  need to see if the bcm sets a code when they go white and the rears hyperflash so I can see if it thinks there's no bulb there or if its shutting down from "over current" protection.  When ever it starts hyperflashing the led's always go white so I presume the output is being turned off.

I've considered making my own control circuit thinking it was just screwing with the bcm tricking it somehow.  I've also read where other brands of cars had to ground the load resistor to chassis and not the sockets ground or the bcm would go crazy.  Using relays like you did would isolate the control circuit from the bcm as well.  How did they have you wire them?

[SwampRat]

2013 with factory HID and rear leds.  DRL programmed off (stock)
The long story...
I have learned that the bcm monitors these circuits very closely.  If it senses too much current draw it will temporarily disable the output until the turn signal is turned off then on again and set a code in bcm.  If this happens too fast it will kill the output before it can shut itself off. 

I first had the revision 1 of the v3 tritons.  It came with little light bulbs for the load barrel connectors:
The first few tests it blew the parking lamp circuit fuse.  Then testing the turns I would get 1 or 2 flashes of amber then the bcm would switch off its output to that socket (rears still worked), it would go white, and switch to hyperflash.  It would do this with the load bulbs hooked up or not.  I bench tested the units and they weren't pulling anywhere close to the current of the original bulb (even with their load bulbs) so that didn't seem to be the problem.  The socket adapter also seemed correctly wired for the car.  I had the bright idea to turn the turn signal on and off rapidly to try to get it to stay using amber.  This had the wonderful effect of blowing the bcm's output to that socket.  After a fiasco including the dealership installing the wrong bcm for my car I gave up on the idea.

Revision 2 came out with new connectors, a new control unit, and a built in load resistor.  I emailed them and they exchanged me the old version for the new.  The same thing happened but this time it might flash a few times before going into hyperflash and turning solid white.  It did this with the built in load resistor on or off.  I gave up again.

I then found on this forum they had new socket adapters for the newer Fords.  I emailed them and they sent me the new adapters.  They worked much better sitting in my garage for a short test so I fully installed them.  But when I went for a test drive they would randomly switch to hyper flash after being on for several seconds or would hyperflash with solid white when first turned on then work when I switched the signal off then back on (while holding my breath) once.  I don't know if I didn't test them long enough or if the difference between battery or alternator voltage made a difference.  They would do this with the built in load resistor on or off as well.

I learned Forscan can read the bcm codes with my with my obd2 adapter. I  need to see if the bcm sets a code when they go white and the rears hyperflash so I can see if it thinks there's no bulb there or if its shutting down from "over current" protection.  When ever it starts hyperflashing the led's always go white so I presume the output is being turned off.

I've considered making my own control circuit thinking it was just screwing with the bcm tricking it somehow.  I've also read where other brands of cars had to ground the load resistor to chassis and not the sockets ground or the bcm would go crazy.  Using relays like you did would isolate the control circuit from the bcm as well.  How did they have you wire them?

Dalum if you have checked ALL of the pins on ALL of the socket connectors on both sides to make SURE they are fully seated and all are OK I can only say one of the control modules is defective .

Both BigMac and my  installs are working fine and we have 2013 models and have not done any extra wiring or relays  .

[dalum]

Dalum if you have checked ALL of the pins on ALL of the socket connectors on both sides to make SURE they are fully seated and all are OK I can only say one of the control modules is defective .

Both BigMac and my  installs are working fine and we have 2013 models and have not done any extra wiring or relays  .

I only checked all of the the pins on one "side" so far but both sides were doing it so I assume they both would have to have bad control units unless the sides aren't isolated very well in the bcm.  I grabbed each pin with needle nose pliers and tried to pull them out of the connector face or push them back into the connector and nothing budged. 

I know your two cars are working perfectly and its the only reason I've kept trying.  Its making me want to cry and I'm always afraid the bcm's protections will fail and I'll blow the bcm output again.  I presume something was messed up in the original socket adapter.  This is actually the 3rd adapter I've tried.  The first was socket-> barrel connector(v1), second was socket-> weather proof connector(v2), third was "new ford" socket-> weather proof connector(v2). 

Maybe I should test them on my mothers SHO 

[ShoBoat]

Holy crap Dalum, you have had it all happen to you. Do you have access to a 12v battery or a 12v power supply. I am with SwampRat something is fishy, I only started having issues when I had the car reprogrammed for the DRL function. Even then I didn't get a hyper flash issue. With the new ford adapters the amber will be dim at resting voltage, thats about it. You shouldn't really need the relays unless you are using the V3's as DRLs. When I did my first switchbacks (before the v3) I had the load resistors run across from the turn signal to the ground on the wiring harness (I still do with the relay setup). Not to the body and never had any issues. I am guessing you don't get hyper flash when you have a regular bulb in the socket? Could you tell me the actual current draw of the v3's with the builtin load resistors in place and are both units the same? There are also several different 3157 adapters (including the CK base) where the wiring is backwards to what ours should be and for obvious reasons can really mess with the car. I will be honest with you the relay is a PITA because of the external load resistors, if you are running DRL it's worth it. If there is no other way with your particular car I will be happy to help you set it up. But I would like to trouble shoot this a bit more before I would suggest you go that route. One last question was it happening on both units? Can you post pics of the adapters that Jake sent you? And your control boxes?

In the symptoms you have described above with the change from no hyper flash to hyper flash, the current draw sounds like it's dropping after the first few flashes. That to me would indicate that the V3s are disabling the internal load resistors for what ever reason. Again they should only do this while in DRL mode, Constant power to the amber part of the control unit. If you can bench test the units off the car, that would be a start. Give the turn signal input a constant 12V (without the adapter attached) You should get a reading, then after a second or so it should drop to about 1/2 of that. Then try pulsing the input and see if after a few pulses it changes. You could do this on the car, but with your history I would be cautious just in case you have a (or 2) defective control units.  I would try to eliminate the control boxes first and then move onto the adapters.

I also have Forscan and I don't believe that the car throws a code when in hyper flash. It does throw a code when one of you headlights is out or in my case before the recent HID retrofit I was running some cheap HIDs. I had to run Canbus ballasts in order not to throw a code. I now run the Morimoto Canbus adapters to fool the car into thinking I have the halogen bulbs still in place. 

I wish you were closer, I would be happy to give you a hand.

[SwampRat]

Dalum if you have checked ALL of the pins on ALL of the socket connectors on both sides to make SURE they are fully seated and all are OK I can only say one of the control modules is defective .

Both BigMac and my  installs are working fine and we have 2013 models and have not done any extra wiring or relays  .

I only checked all of the the pins on one "side" so far but both sides were doing it so I assume they both would have to have bad control units unless the sides aren't isolated very well in the bcm.  I grabbed each pin with needle nose pliers and tried to pull them out of the connector face or push them back into the connector and nothing budged. 

I know your two cars are working perfectly and its the only reason I've kept trying.  Its making me want to cry and I'm always afraid the bcm's protections will fail and I'll blow the bcm output again.  I presume something was messed up in the original socket adapter.  This is actually the 3rd adapter I've tried.  The first was socket-> barrel connector(v1), second was socket-> weather proof connector(v2), third was "new ford" socket-> weather proof connector(v2). 

Maybe I should test them on my mothers SHO 

It only takes one sides wiring or pins to not be connecting properly to Make one or both sides to not function or hyper flash so you need to check all pin connectors and sockets on both sides .... trust me I was pullin my hair out to trying get mine to work ... VLEDS are awesome when properly working but the harness connectors are a little on the cheap side .

[dalum]

I have a bench power supply and nice meters so I can go through everything and test again.  I don't remember if I did it with the revision 2 control boxes or not.  I have the shop manual for the car and that's where I read about the bcm setting temporary codes, one each, for temporary disabled output due to high load and permanently disabled output.  Its only readable through fords bus and not through a normal odb2 "code check".  The weather is actually getting nice now so I won't freeze in the garage testing stuff.

Factory bulbs work perfectly.  Sometimes when I would test stuff it would be only 1 side with the factory bulb in the other side.  I have tried every combination of all led, switched sides all led, swapped components of led sets between sides, you could think of.

What changed between the "new ford" socket adapter and the previous one?  You mentioned that the amber will always be on dim with it.  You mentioned testing without the adapter.  Which pins are turn, park, ground going into the control box?

Assuming everything is ok with the car and the socket adapters I would guess the load resistors are turning off prematurely or not coming on at all some times.  This makes the car think there is no bulb so it disables the output until the signal is called for again.

OHHH I just remembered something else.  One time while testing the newest config the car was currently hyperflashing and the led was solid white.  I turned on the parking lights and it started flashing amber without hyper flash.  The 2 shouldn't have anything to do with each other besides sharing a ground but it obviously changed something.

[ShoBoat]

It really sounds like the pins are not correct. Can you post pics of the adapters and control boxes?


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[BiGMaC]

Dalum... I have a dumb question...

Why haven't you just done a warranty claim with vLEDs... get a whole new kit that works instead of trying to diagnose a piece of equipment that has never worked?

[dalum]

Old socket adapters


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[dalum]

New socket adapters. Notice the F that was scratched into them when I received them.


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[dalum]

Rest of the system


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[ShoBoat]

Dalum, I'm going to put in a call to Jake, I need to speak to him anyway. I'll ask him about your issue and maybe he can get on here to provide some support to the guys running vleds stuff in their cars. I know if the product is defective, which from the sounds of it something is he will send you whatever you need. He has done so with me.  I will get you the pin assignment later today so you can bench test the control boxes without the adapters.

[dalum]

Dalum... I have a dumb question...

Why haven't you just done a warranty claim with vLEDs... get a whole new kit that works instead of trying to diagnose a piece of equipment that has never worked?

Well I was one of the first people to get the original revision. They did exchange the revision 1 for the revision 2. They then sent the new socket adapters.  Then they exchanged a led that the amber wasn't working in.  I guess a full exchange is the next step. Up until both of the other 13's were working perfect with the new ford adapters I thought the problem was with my car because they seemed to work perfectly on the bench.  It was super cold after that and I didn't feel like working on the car at all.


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