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Dome light LED issue

Started by futat2, January 07, 2014, 05:01:28 PM

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futat2

So I am replacing all my interior lights with LED bulbs on my 2013 SHO. I got them all replaced but the problem i am having is every time i pull the oem center bulb from the rear dome light the two map lights next to it turns on and will not turn off unless I put the oem bulb back in. all the other lights are fine with the LEDs including the two map lights. Am I missing something? Do I need a particular style for the center bulb? Thanks for any help.
2013 SHO PP, Sparkly Black
bone stock (for now)
Got the windows tinted, 15% all around

SHOdded

I think you have run into the same problem that geswek did during his LED upgrade.  This thread is a summarization of his travails:

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=945.0
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

BiGMaC

Quote from: futat2 on January 07, 2014, 05:01:28 PM
So I am replacing all my interior lights with LED bulbs on my 2013 SHO. I got them all replaced but the problem i am having is every time i pull the oem center bulb from the rear dome light the two map lights next to it turns on and will not turn off unless I put the oem bulb back in. all the other lights are fine with the LEDs including the two map lights. Am I missing something? Do I need a particular style for the center bulb? Thanks for any help.
Quote from: SHOdded on January 07, 2014, 05:11:45 PM
I think you have run into the same problem that geswek did during his LED upgrade.  This thread is a summarization of his travails:

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=945.0

I simply replaced mine... all of them... never had problem in my 2013. 
I did use Hi output CREE chip LEDs ...and interesting enough in mine (bought new, manufacture was 9/2012) there were only two lateral bulbs in the rear dome light in "eyeball" sockets that I had to remove and open to change the bulb. 

There was no center bulb in mine or an apparent place for one. I did not have to remove the entire light... just the eyeballs. 

Wonder if there changes made to the design? Did you try just changing the bulbs and then closing the doors for the delayed turn-off?

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

QwikSHO

Someone didn't read the How-to article did they?  LOL

you have to put in a resistor in the circuit.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=945.0

futat2

Quote from: BiGMaC on January 07, 2014, 05:38:14 PM
Quote from: futat2 on January 07, 2014, 05:01:28 PM
So I am replacing all my interior lights with LED bulbs on my 2013 SHO. I got them all replaced but the problem i am having is every time i pull the oem center bulb from the rear dome light the two map lights next to it turns on and will not turn off unless I put the oem bulb back in. all the other lights are fine with the LEDs including the two map lights. Am I missing something? Do I need a particular style for the center bulb? Thanks for any help.
Quote from: SHOdded on January 07, 2014, 05:11:45 PM
I think you have run into the same problem that geswek did during his LED upgrade.  This thread is a summarization of his travails:

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=945.0

I simply replaced mine... all of them... never had problem in my 2013. 
I did use Hi output CREE chip LEDs ...and interesting enough in mine (bought new, manufacture was 9/2012) there were only two lateral bulbs in the rear dome light in "eyeball" sockets that I had to remove and open to change the bulb. 

There was no center bulb in mine or an apparent place for one. I did not have to remove the entire light... just the eyeballs. 

Wonder if there changes made to the design? Did you try just changing the bulbs and then closing the doors for the delayed turn-off?
Thank you all for the replies and help. I will need to go pick me up some resistors this week.
2013 SHO PP, Sparkly Black
bone stock (for now)
Got the windows tinted, 15% all around

BiGMaC

The definitive solution!... Your SHO just didn't know the lights were on.... LOL

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

dalum

Quote from: QwikSHO on January 07, 2014, 07:22:35 PM
Someone didn't read the How-to article did they?  LOL

you have to put in a resistor in the circuit.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=945.0

I didn't put any resistors in mine.
2013 Non-PP SHO

metroplex

The How-To for this was locked, but I was wondering if anyone has tried a CANBUS style 194 in the center to achieve the same results?

Does the resistor, that's supposed to be added, see any current when the interior lights are off?
Previously: 2014 SHO
12.4 @ 110.9 mph

Current: 2017 Fusion Sport

metroplex

I ended up by slipping in a 1.5k ohm 3W power resistor with the center dome light, so it's not a permanent solder but it shouldn't pop out.

It looks like the BCM shuts off power to the dome light assembly after a certain amount of time, and even before then the power resistor just loads it down enough to shut off the map lights but not much current (if any) is passing through the load resistor when there is power to the dome light.

I chose this resistor because it's what I had from a previous DVD install (part of the kit that disables the DVD display lock when the car is moving), and it is a 3W power resistor so it's beefy, not like the 1/4W or 1/2W resistors from Radio Shack. That being said, I think the 3W might be overkill since many people here are using the smaller 1/2W resistors without causing any issues.
Previously: 2014 SHO
12.4 @ 110.9 mph

Current: 2017 Fusion Sport

Macgyver

Old thread but still postable as a lot of old tip pics are not in the thread anymore.

I just did my lights. Did not use the push in method resistor. I soldered. I found the Youtube video helpful.

A few tips:

Tin your resistor leads.

Use a wooden skinny chop stick to push out the old bulbs utilizing the small hold on the reverse side of the socket.

Use Care in taking out the whole assembly from the headliner. Mine was a bear to come out. Tilt from the Rear towards the front to pop it out.