unfortunately i do not seem to have torque datalogs, so i have attached a datalog from an sct x4 i believe. you can clearly see the pids they are using, need to find similar vehicle specific, not ford generic, pids in torque.

fuel pressures are in MPa, approx 14.5 psi conversion.

it is possible the pcm is throttling boost until it is satisfied the vehicle will respond. i do not recall what the max oem fuel pressure is (untuned), i will see if i have member logs to verify. curious that there are no fuel pump duty cycle datapoints tho, maybe wrong PID. seems like generic pids for that and knock sensor count? torque pro provides every 100ms resolution capability iirc. what adapter are you using. i highly recommend the obdlink mx+ not a "generic" for these purposes. a tuning device affords 10ms resolution.

one of the reasons that the pcm will throttle is due to torque management kicking in, but since you have not mentioned any wheel slip or tire buckling type feeling, probably not the case.

the system is awd, but it still should not throttle that long. it should switch to fwd mode if the rdu is malfunctioning, and of course it will impact 0-60 times, just not sure how much.

I sort of figured out how to log in torque.
I have 2 idle to ~beyond 70 mph runs on here.
I hope this shows up okay.

I added custom scripts, then imported .csv file to torque from ecoboostsho from this forum back in '14.

When I connected torque to my car "fast connection was disabled".
I've not had that happen before. Data corruption, fast communication disabled, OBD device may be faulty.

I'll keep researching how to log so I can post some information that is actually helpful.

Both runs had 0-2 psi of boost until the top of first gear, hence the 7.1/ 6.9 0-60 times.


Thanks,  Joe.

everything looks good except maybe for fuel pressure, assuming max is truly commanded. at this point it seems like an intermittent problem since it is only on the first pull.

i believe in 2013 the max hpfp pressure was raised to 3000 psi. 2400 is correct for 2010-2012 MYs.

would log both fuel pump duty cycle as well as fuel pressures from idle to wot to idle. see if you spot a difference between pull 1 and any run thereafter.

could be as simple as a fuel pump control module, or not.

I have the pcv valve, vacuum pump and the gaskets
I replaced the pcv valve (numbers match), I think the old one is okay, but...

I checked the canister purge valve. It holds 30 psi for more than a minute.
Any more and the connection blows apart.

The throttle body and rear turbo are completely dry, I will continue to keep an eye on the rear turbo.

I found a video "legit street cars". He bought an sho at auction and is doing a Gearhead tune/intercooler and a PPE exhaust. He checks his turbo and states a small amount of movement is okay. I don't know for sure, but he seems knowledgeable.
Start at 14:34 if the video doesn't.

I may not check the rear turbo as the video looks worse than the small amount of play I have in my 97,000 mi front turbo.

So far things look pretty good to me.
I'm a bit afraid of what I'll see if I put the bore scope down the map sensor hole to look at the intake valves. I'm not sure if it'll fit.

If the timing advance is correct (~19° @ WOT, Ive only put 93 octane in the car), I'm getting 10 psi of pressure from the turbos, the hpfp is @ 2,400 psi and I have no misfires (plugs/coils/injectors are okay) I'm not sure why the car is so slow.
I also still have the random time I see boost the first time I go WOT.
The times I got from torque were with a full tank of gas.

I'm still working on the engine mount.

What else should I check next?
Thanks, SHOdded.

yes the f150 and sho engines are different variants. the sho engine is based on the transverse 3.5 cyclone engine and retains the vct configuration. the f150 is a longitudinal ti-vct engine thus the 2 solenoids per bank. the sho engine was never updated in this regard.

I'm not sure either. Ill watch it and try to check the bolts holding the halves together.
The only place that i could see a possible leak would be the break between the compressor/turbine side where the 4 or 5 bolts keep the center section together.
I doubt the turbo was built incorrectly.
This is a link to the video I was referring to.
Those/his truck turbosseem to be water cooled. Mine look like there is a plug

This fordtechmakuloco shows the screens you linked me to starting at 3:45 sec if the video doesn't start there.

I don't know if the truck version or year or what is different, but I only have 1 solenoid (cam phaser?) n each bank. Most of the videos seem to have 2 per bank?

Thanks, SHOdded.  I may not have much of anything until this weekend.

not sure where the oil is coming from unless it is from the oil filter, engine oil pressure switch, etc. if  you don't see any oil elsewhere, i would clean it off and keep an eye. possibly ptu venting but the oil would have "that smell", an axle seal leak, or the front main cover (timing cover) leak.

as for turbo videos, ones specific to the ecoboost turbos of your style should be the pertinent ones. these are smaller turbos than normal to allow faster spoolup i imagine less room for "slop" as well. but idk.

not sure where the screens are on the oil feeds, but i would hope at the end closest to the turbo to provide max filtering. will have to see if i can find this info.

I took all the turbo piping off either friday or today. I found no significant amount of oil anywhere.
The bottom of the new (rear turbo) has some  dirty oil droplets on the bottom. I have no idea where it is coming from. I shot it down with brake cleaner and wiped it off. I'll check it again in a few days. The oil return line is new and clean. The discharge hose has a flex connection which was covered with oil. It was never cleaned when they did the turbo. I cleaned that with brake cleaner as well.

I did vacuum out the CAC. I might have got a teaspoon of fluid out.

I was not able to get to the last clamp on the inlet of the rear turbo. I was afraid I would not be able to get it back on without removing the rear cat. I assume i would need to replace the gaskets. I could order them and try again next weekend.

I did put the scope down the last elbow to the inlet and everything looks clean and dry, as well as the outlet to the CAC.
I want to feel if there is any play in the shaft on the new turbo, it would give me some direction.

The purge valve does sound like it's popping while the car is running and the line is disconnected. I will get a vacuum pump to test it properly.

I also watched a makeuloco video that shows the oil filter screens for the turbo.
I don't know which end of the line they are at. Engine side?

I also watched a video of a guy rebuilding a turbo for his f150, the channel was "evil fate industries" he said there should be no slop (side to side) and a search on the internet says there will be some play and the oil will fill the gap.
So I don't know which to believe is correct.

I'm having issue geting pics to my pc to post today or I show you more.

I'll keep working at it.
Thanks SHOdded.

the purge valve should hold vacuum with it disconnected. you won't realize it with momentary tests like blowing through it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvLOLXf2HfE

if the impeller looks good, probably is good. not sure how it spins with engine not running/spun by hand. you can always change the oil feed tubes w filter baskets/gaskets (on both turbos) if concerned. the oil feed tubes are a known leak point on the turbos.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yeeugv6eEq27TP1vZ49RVXuFI2L6TqLR/view?usp=drive_link

yes it is entirely possible there has been oil starvation on that turbo and you are seeing the results in the slower impeller response. good catch there. assuming the turbos are identically matched otherwise.

watch for any irregularities along impeller blade edges that indicate impact from the airstream.