Ecoboost Performance Forum

Here is a very brief "How To" as mentioned earlier as my patients isnt what it once was. LOL.  Z
BIG :thankyou: to Mike.B over @ www.ecopowerparts.com (http://www.ecopowerparts.com) for the silicone hose which fit like a glove which made the process of installing the FRONT CAC TO FRONT TURBO HOSE that much easier as compared to the previous version which was a pita.

The overall Silicone hose appears to be made of high quality as compared to the OEM Rubber hose which in overtime can be prone to cracking and lead to hard to find boost leaks especially in higher temp climates.
1.5" To 2" ID hose .
I believe its a 4mm Thickness 3-Ply Nylon for Strong Reinforcement
Withstands Operating Temperatures from -65F to 500F Degrees Fahrenheit Working pressure 80 psi / Burst pressure 245 psi
Inlet / Outlet: 1.5" / 2" based on my research.

FYI -the hose did not come with hose clamps and just used my previous T-bolt clamps which came since purchasing the Hotpipes.
I found Ebay to have the best price on the T-Bolt clamps,link below.
2.25" and 1.75" inch T-bolt clamps

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mishimoto-Stainless-Steel-T-Bolt-Coupler-Clamp-2-25-MMCLAMP-225-/272678956431?hash=item3f7ceead8f:g:vR0AAOSw7GRZCqZF&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mishimoto-Stainless-Steel-T-Bolt-Coupler-Clamp-2-25-MMCLAMP-225-/272678956431?hash=item3f7ceead8f:g:vR0AAOSw7GRZCqZF&vxp=mtr)


The procedure is basically very straight forward and took me roughly 30 min for the entire install.
The Hose is located towards the front drivers side underneath the bumper.

If you have a lift you can certainly do it much quicker but in my case used an old set of Rhino ramps .

1)Remove the Under Radiator/Engine-Cover Splash Shield and the front
Engine Splash Shield while removing the retainer nuts.

2)I found using an 8mm socket + 1/4 socket wrench to be ideal for removing the OEM Hose especially for tight spaces.

3)10mm socket and 1/4th socket wrench to install new silicone hose with Heavy Duty T-Bolt clamps using 11ft- Ibs torque.

I also found very minimal amounts of oil on the original hose which leads me to believe the CAC(intercooler) is working efficiently and as designed IMO.

If you have any questions as always please feel free to ask.  Z  :)

Previous rubber Hose


New Silicone Hose

This is a BRIEF howto?  My goodness, man, you have way more patience than I!

You mentioned you found minimal oil in the original house which leads you to think the CAC is working efficiently.  I don't understand.  How does the house going from the turbo to CAC indicate CAC function?  Since that air hasn't passed through the CAC yet, right?  Or am I misunderstanding completely lol.

Quote from: Agentlongwood on August 18, 2017, 10:09:35 PM
You mentioned you found minimal oil in the original house which leads you to think the CAC is working efficiently.  I don't understand.  How does the house going from the turbo to CAC indicate CAC function?  Since that air hasn't passed through the CAC yet, right?  Or am I misunderstanding completely lol.

I should of been more clear! Upon inspection of the CAC and the front hose there was very minimal oil present and you certainly dont want your CAC pooled in oil,gas,water which explains the shop rags.
Check your front intake charge pipe my friend!!!!. Z

It looks like the new hose is bent on the left side causing a fold/ crease. Is the the case, or just the pic? If there is a hard fold, are you concerned with impeding the air flow?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Quote from: J-Will on August 19, 2017, 08:24:43 AM
It looks like the new hose is bent on the left side causing a fold/ crease. Is the the case, or just the pic? If there is a hard fold, are you concerned with impeding the air flow?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

The hose is not creased!! brake cleaner was dripping on top while cleaning the area,thanks though . Z  :)