Hi have anyone had break warp from using the breaks and then running into cold water on any of the newer Ford vehicles.
Curious of how worried I should be I've ruined 3 sets of rotors on a 98 expedition till i realized probably what was happening. Don't think I was over using the breaks but these were the days I'd go 100 every where.
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That has the ability to ruin any rotor...
Yes just curious how often it's happened.
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More likely than not, the problem lies with the pads not the rotors. Unless people have the runout numbers handy to quote from. If only the pads are replaced, the rotors need to be turned and the pads/rotors bedded in. Both replaced, then pads/rotors need bedded in.
I would have thought since your SHO has the perf pack, this would be much less of an issue ... Any rust buildup issues on the brakes?
It's my understanding that the rotors don't actually misshapen. It's actually from getting to brakes too hot then sitting still at a light. The hot resin from the pad then transfer to the rotor, making a high spot. After reading a lot on how that happens, I have yet to warp another set of rotors. If you have to come to a complete stop from high speed braking, make sure the vehicle rolls a little to not give the resin time to transfer to one spot.
I have not had break issues yet I'm just curious how common it's happened. But it's nice to get some other info about the breaks also.
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Quote from: Quinid on April 25, 2017, 12:01:49 AM
It's my understanding that the rotors don't actually misshapen. It's actually from getting to brakes too hot then sitting still at a light. The hot resin from the pad then transfer to the rotor, making a high spot. After reading a lot on how that happens, I have yet to warp another set of rotors. If you have to come to a complete stop from high speed braking, make sure the vehicle rolls a little to not give the resin time to transfer to one spot.
^This... you need to let your brakes cool for several minutes after those 100MPH runs WITHOUT stopping completely.
Paragraph 4 under Myth 1: http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths (http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths)
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Quote from: MiWiAu on April 25, 2017, 07:19:18 AM
Quote from: Quinid on April 25, 2017, 12:01:49 AM
It's my understanding that the rotors don't actually misshapen. It's actually from getting to brakes too hot then sitting still at a light. The hot resin from the pad then transfer to the rotor, making a high spot. After reading a lot on how that happens, I have yet to warp another set of rotors. If you have to come to a complete stop from high speed braking, make sure the vehicle rolls a little to not give the resin time to transfer to one spot.
^This... you need to let your brakes cool for several minutes after those 100MPH runs WITHOUT stopping completely.
Paragraph 4 under Myth 1: http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths (http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths)
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I also agree with this.
I road race and #1 thing is to never leave your foot on the brake when stopped when the brakes are hot. The pad material transfers to the rotor creating a slightly different friction coefficient causing brake shutter. Water rarely causes it, especially on the street.
I have a habit of putting my car in "neutral" especially when the need to brake abruptly which gives me a bit of roll time when coming to a full stop similar to a stick. Z
I've been down shifting but most driving in city wish I could get into first a little sooner then 2k
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Quote from: ZSHO on April 25, 2017, 11:00:51 PM
I have a habit of putting my car in "neutral" especially when the need to brake abruptly which gives me a bit of roll time when coming to a full stop similar to a stick. Z
Why?...you dont have a stick...but i still dont even know what you are talking about
Someone please fix the title already
People need to stop driving automatics like they are something else....like the hyper milers that shift to neutral when they coast, you actually use more fuel when you do that...if its an auto just leave it in auto
how about putting it in neutral after a hard stop and (let's say if your on a hill) putting the e brake on? will that have the same effect as holding the brake pads to the hot rotors?
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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on April 25, 2017, 11:39:22 PM
how about putting it in neutral after a hard stop and (let's say if your on a hill) putting the e brake on? will that have the same effect as holding the brake pads to the hot rotors?
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I think you have to define "hard stop". If you're tooling around on the street doing normal DD stuff and you have to make an emergency stop, I don't think you will build enough heat to imprint.
If you are out road racing and running sustained heavy breaking (just to torque AJP ;), I think you would still imprint the front with your suggested method, and probably the rear (from using the ebrake). Even when you're not applying the brake, there's still slight contact between the pads and discs.
For reference, I had no issues with imprinting during my autocross. There's just not enough time at speed to build a ton of heat. I'd run HARD for 50 seconds, then stop in a line (no room for a cool down lap), but there's several minutes between runs to let things cool completely, so things never get super hot.
Hauling a 5200+ lb Excursion down from 100MPH under moderate/aggressive braking will generate a lot of heat, and I could certainly see sitting stationary waiting out a light at the end of an off ramp causing some issues.
I thought I "warped" rotors on my Altima SE-R 13k miles after I bought it new. Same thing on a F150. I'm fairly certain my issue was actually imprinting from parking shortly after spirited driving without allowing things to cool down first. Once I educated myself and allowed things to cool after hard driving, I've not experienced an issue.
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Quote from: AJP turbo on April 25, 2017, 11:38:17 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on April 25, 2017, 11:00:51 PM
I have a habit of putting my car in "neutral" especially when the need to brake abruptly which gives me a bit of roll time when coming to a full stop similar to a stick. Z
Why?...you dont have a stick...but i still dont even know what you are talking about
Someone please fix the title already
People need to stop driving automatics like they are something else....like the hyper milers that shift to neutral when they coast, you actually use more fuel when you do that...if its an auto just leave it in auto
AJP Fix what title? I kinda liked Break warp lol but if it makes you sleep better consider it done. Z :)
Quote from: ZSHO on April 26, 2017, 09:37:24 AM
Quote from: AJP turbo on April 25, 2017, 11:38:17 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on April 25, 2017, 11:00:51 PM
I have a habit of putting my car in "neutral" especially when the need to brake abruptly which gives me a bit of roll time when coming to a full stop similar to a stick. Z
Why?...you dont have a stick...but i still dont even know what you are talking about
Someone please fix the title already
People need to stop driving automatics like they are something else....like the hyper milers that shift to neutral when they coast, you actually use more fuel when you do that...if its an auto just leave it in auto
AJP Fix what title? still don't know what your talking about. Z
Brake warp not "break warp"
I only have one word in response ... "Transwarp"
Quote from: MiWiAu on April 26, 2017, 12:06:34 AM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on April 25, 2017, 11:39:22 PM
how about putting it in neutral after a hard stop and (let's say if your on a hill) putting the e brake on? will that have the same effect as holding the brake pads to the hot rotors?
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I think you have to define "hard stop". If you're tooling around on the street doing normal DD stuff and you have to make an emergency stop, I don't think you will build enough heat to imprint.
If you are out road racing and running sustained heavy breaking (just to torque AJP ;), I think you would still imprint the front with your suggested method, and probably the rear (from using the ebrake). Even when you're not applying the brake, there's still slight contact between the pads and discs.
For reference, I had no issues with imprinting during my autocross. There's just not enough time at speed to build a ton of heat. I'd run HARD for 50 seconds, then stop in a line (no room for a cool down lap), but there's several minutes between runs to let things cool completely, so things never get super hot.
Hauling a 5200+ lb Excursion down from 100MPH under moderate/aggressive braking will generate a lot of heat, and I could certainly see sitting stationary waiting out a light at the end of an off ramp causing some issues.
I thought I "warped" rotors on my Altima SE-R 13k miles after I bought it new. Same thing on a F150. I'm fairly certain my issue was actually imprinting from parking shortly after spirited driving without allowing things to cool down first. Once I educated myself and allowed things to cool after hard driving, I've not experienced an issue.
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in any event you get the brakes hot i would imagine putting the car in neutral with foot off the pedal and ,if you had to keep the car from rolling, applying a small amount of E brake. my thinking is that the fronts do much more of the work and reach higher temps so just applying the e brake on the rears may prevent the warp scenario.
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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on April 26, 2017, 10:30:49 AM
in any event you get the brakes hot i would imagine putting the car in neutral with foot off the pedal and ,if you had to keep the car from rolling, applying a small amount of E brake. my thinking is that the fronts do much more of the work and reach higher temps so just applying the e brake on the rears may prevent the warp scenario.
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This might work just fine as a SHO parking brake isn't the same set of friction material as the service brakes (lil shoes inside the rear rotor). They wouldn't be seriously effected by being applied when stopped like a caliper based parking brake would.
Quote from: Half-Fast on April 26, 2017, 10:45:23 AM
This might work just fine as a SHO parking brake isn't the same set of friction material as the service brakes (lil shoes inside the rear rotor). They wouldn't be seriously effected by being applied when stopped like a caliper based parking brake would.
Is that true of all model years? My XSport (2013) doesn't use internal shoes. It's a caliper based parking brake using the same friction material as primary braking. I'm fairly certain my rear rotors and caliper part numbers are the same as 2013+ SHO (not sure if PP vs non-PP matters, as I'm not all that familiar with SHO options/configurations).
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Quote from: MiWiAu on April 27, 2017, 08:50:37 AM
Quote from: Half-Fast on April 26, 2017, 10:45:23 AM
This might work just fine as a SHO parking brake isn't the same set of friction material as the service brakes (lil shoes inside the rear rotor). They wouldn't be seriously effected by being applied when stopped like a caliper based parking brake would.
Is that true of all model years? My XSport (2013) doesn't use internal shoes. It's a caliper based parking brake using the same friction material as primary braking. I'm fairly certain my rear rotors and caliper part numbers are the same as 2013+ SHO (not sure if PP vs non-PP matters, as I'm not all that familiar with SHO options/configurations).
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