Ok:
Doing my Weekly 1/4 Mile Run, From a Light, A LARGE CLOUD of Smoke (oil and Or White)
at the the End of it, Engine Light Came on, Running Rough, limped back to the Shop, and
the Following Codes (stored Codes) From my dash command App...
Cylinder 2 misfire Detected (2 Times)
Intake (A) Camshaft Positioning Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 2) (2 Times)
Intake (A) Camshaft Positioning Timing - Over Advanced (Bank 1) (2 Times)
my initial thought is Coil Pack (to Start), but i believe there is more,
as the oil indication light is ON, or came on one or twice...
Direction from Here, thanks :(
Start it (a couple Times, and it Smokes like it is on Fire,
yea my MECH said, "sounds like it Jumped a Tooth"
Codes are all Stored... Will get to No 2 Tomor, Never checked the
intercooler or Tubing at all 39K Miles on it... Hope it Did not Jump..
I would check cylinder 2 plug to see if it's damaged, or has excessive fuel on it.
The camshaft position sensor may have tried to over compensate for the bad plug/injector.
Maybe check compression while you have the plug out? I would feel a whole lot better about it if I knew the compression was good.
Did you restart the car after reaching the shop? Sometimes codes will show up during a run, but then the car will recover after a restart. Error codes for both sensors means that we should be looking for a common source, such as perhaps oil starvation/foaming. The phasers are pretty sensitive parts. The filters could be clogged. Or in a worse case scenario, the timing chain could have jumped a tooth.
You have a 2011, so it is less likely, but still worth checking for a valve cover leak, which you will find during the course of checking Cyl 2 as suggested by glock & scott.
Have you ever had issues with pooling oil in the intake tubing or in the intercooler? Do you monitor and clean those parts regularly?
What oil/filter have you been using in the SHO? Check the oil to make sure there is no debris (dirt or metal, eg).
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0011 (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0011)
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0014 (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0014)
http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/1s538-check-engine-codes-p0011-p0014-mean.html (http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/1s538-check-engine-codes-p0011-p0014-mean.html)
Not quite the same, but this thread may help:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2463 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2463)
Were you having a rattle on start up?
Do not Know,
However i may have heard one (1) one Time, thought it was exhaust
and if soo.... ?
Ok Changed out Plug, Swapped Coils, Same Condition,
P0302 Code
P052C Code
lots of Smoke
what Fun
A quick 1-2 second rattle is "normal" (though it can be eliminated with oil/filter combination), an extended rattle is not, and would be indicative of timing chain slack.
I would do a compression test. What did the removed plug look like? A pic of that would help. I would have said disconnect the neg batt cable after swapping those things out but the smoke is whats concerning. Any unusual engine noise?
I second this,a compression and blow by test will tell if you did any piston or valve damage. If the car is not making a bunch of noise then maybe it could be a blown turbo.
Quote from: JDW1 on June 14, 2016, 12:58:32 PM
I would do a compression test. What did the removed plug look like? A pic of that would help. I would have said disconnect the neg batt cable after swapping those things out but the smoke is whats concerning. Any unusual engine noise?
OK:
Pic of Oil infused Plug attached, Oil
was Changed 4K Miles Ago...
Nothing special about oil and Filter,
Compression test Tomorrow....
Yea my first thought was Blown Turbo
Oil Smoke For Sure - both Sides AND
no noise to speak of.....
"Well" may be time for the turbo Upgrade
OK: the car has been Put in the Back of the Shop, Were all Things Broken End UP
Check out the Oil Haze, and Blowing Smoke, No Mosquito Fogger Required.. :(
I was not logging at the time, so lost until the Mech Brings his tester..
Did you get a chance to check compression? I want it to be a turbo but I am leaning the other way. Maybe someone with more experience on blowing up turbos can say but I wouldn't expect to see a plug that oiled from a bad turbo. I suppose depending on how the turbo failed it could blow smoke/oil through the intake track and oil the plugs causing smoke out both tail pipes from one bad turbo??? I would think that to be unlikely and there is a better chance of a blown head gasket or rings. Just spit balling here.
x2 ^^^
You'll get her fixed! Any chance you were logging when this happened?
If you had the rattle at startup, then you probably have had your cam phasers going bad. The startup rattle fix and tsb now show that you get new chains, guides, and phasers. With your codes, sounds like this is what let loose. Now, you will have to tear down to see the extent of damage.
OK
Boys and Girls 170 PSI Cyl no 2
165 PSI Next to it
Plug next also Oil Soaked....
So off in another direction, 6 MONTHS LATER? OK to bring this to a Close:
Front Turbo is Gone, and i mean it lost a few pieces, Some of which we found in the Oil Filter
rear Turbo is as well, but no Pieces Missing, Both had a ton of play in the rotors, SO 19 PSI and 35K Miles, Yea I know how to break it...SO ATP install is done, Waiting on Oil Cooler Parts, and a
call to the Dyno Guy (i will be yelling just a bit) hoping the next round lasts more than a year...!
That's good news assuming that is what they should be at. On to the turbo/s I would say. One idea I have is to check the air moving through pipe from the IC to the TB. If its smoking out both tail pipes then either there are bad rings on both banks "unlikely due to compression test", 2 bad turbos "unlikely" or one bad turbo that is pumping smoke down the cold side through the IC and into the TB and combustion chamber. I'm not even sure that is possible but one way to know is if you can somehow check that air. You can get a $15 endoscope off Amazon. I would be using that to check all the cylinders and I would check the compression on all the cylinders as well.
Good news on compression! Still thinking valve cover gasket/plug well seals as probable culprit.
Hey:
We are thinking VCT (variable cam timing) solenoids stuck closed (and maybe PCV)..???
Mechanic had to run, but when we Disconnected both Solenoids It Stopped Blowing about 80%,
Connected Back up Smokes like a Fogger, BUT, more than one Issue...
Still Cyl #2 Code But that plug may be shot as well..
On the way in the AM to see the folks for FathersDay, So Back AT it Next Week....
As long as the solution is simple and doesn't burn a crater in your back pocket :) Have fun on Father's Day!
OK:
Picking up where we let off:
Oil Oil Every Where, Oil In CAC, about 1/4" to 3/8",
Oil Coating In CAC inlet to First MAF Sensor & Piping (cleaned It)
Oil Coated HEAVY 2ND MAF Sensor (Cleaned it) on intake manifold, PCV valve?
Oil Came Out Of the Front Turbo outlet hose (heavy) and Some on my Head
A ton of stuff Going On, Not enough time for the Car, But we keep trying...
"Yea Stainless Works DP (No Cats) and Exhaust (Common Muffler) out to the Dual Tips"
Those turbos leak oil through the seal with low back pressure from the downpipes/exhaust sometimes. Can't see your mods on Tapatalk, but might have bad turbo seals.
I had about that much oil before I installed my rx occ in my intercooler and pipes though.
Sorry for the long delay, and at this stage of the Game...
We and the "Gearhead Automotive" i finally took it to
Believe that the Front turbo is the Main problem
along with a Few others (yet to be determined)..
A) SO new FORD OEM for the Front Only...?
B) replace them Both....?
C) Upgrade to Better And Or Bigger (Stronger than OEM) would be my First Choice
any input or Suggestions from this Forum and you Folks, thanks in advance, Jim
and if "C" anyone brand Versus the other...?
option C if you have the money
If you plan on keeping the car for awhile, I like this option...
http://www.ecopowerparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=26&zenid=xoOaR2900cjCh48kKNMBb1 (http://www.ecopowerparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=26&zenid=xoOaR2900cjCh48kKNMBb1)
I would just contact Mike first to make sure that your turbo's are acceptable core returns even if one has blown seals. I can't tell from the listing description, but would guess that these are rebuilt units which would make yours fine for the core return.
I would go with option A depending on the current mileage,the oem front turbo is fairly cheap to purchase and also the easiest to change out of the two and the rear turbo is just a pita,might also want to change the upper and lower pipes while your in that area and certainly dont want any leaks down the road and might as well kill two birds with one stone,lol. Z http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682f/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=left (http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682f/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=left) http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z9t516af/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=upper-pipe&position=left (http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z9t516af/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=upper-pipe&position=left) BTW might also need a Banjo bolt and best of luck to ya. (http://i.imgur.com/MtP0v7Ul.jpg?1)
Quote from: ZSHO on July 14, 2016, 03:30:05 PM
I would go with option A depending on the current mileage,the oem front turbo is fairly cheap to purchase and also the easiest to change out of the two and the rear turbo is just a pita,might also want to change the upper and lower pipes while your in that area and certainly dont want any leaks down the road. Z http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682f/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=left (http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682f/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=left) http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z9t516af/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=upper-pipe&position=left (http://www.levittownfordoemparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z9t516af/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=upper-pipe&position=left) BTW might also need a Banjo bolt and best of luck to ya. (http://i.imgur.com/MtP0v7Um.jpg)
Have to agree...$409 does make that option really tempting!
Sorry about not going to the bottom:
8 Months Later, a great new Car lift, 2 ATP turbos (the Right way to Go) AND
Front Turbo is Gone, and i mean it lost a few pieces, Some of which we found in the Oil Filter
rear Turbo is as well, but no Pieces Missing, Both had a ton of play in the rotors, SO 19 PSI and 35K Miles, Yea I know how to break it...SO ATP install is done, Waiting on Oil Cooler Parts, and a
call to the Dyno Guy (i will be yelling just a bit) hoping the next round lasts more than a year...!