Hey guys,
When I lowered my sho the shop couldnt get it aligned in the rear 100% and now that I am about to get new wheels with tires Id like to fix this issue so I dont ruin the tires too quickly... I have seen someone talk about a part from the mustang that lets us get the rear of the car aligned correctly, anyone know what the part is and where I can get it?
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did they loosen the top bolt on the hub assembly and pull the top out as far as it would go and then tighten it down? Or did you when you installed the coils? I believe what you are referring to would be a hub centric bolt that would replace the bolt that I am asking about you loosening.
Was it the camber that was out of tolerance? Then maybe this kit will help:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,611.msg71623.html#msg71623 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,611.msg71623.html#msg71623)
I'm actually doing the opposite. removing the h&r and installing new stock springs. alignment should be a piece of cake in theory!
Why are you reverting to "stock"?
Quote from: cseverens on February 26, 2016, 02:35:10 PM
I'm actually doing the opposite. removing the h&r and installing new stock springs. alignment should be a piece of cake in theory!
PP or non PP?
PP
Quote from: SHOdded on February 26, 2016, 02:51:26 PM
Why are you reverting to "stock"?
I don't like the ride of the h&r's. roads up here are awful.
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on February 26, 2016, 03:14:25 PM
Quote from: cseverens on February 26, 2016, 03:13:45 PM
PP
Are you going to cut the rear coil?
I'm not doing anything. bringing to a shop to do the work. I have a potential buyer for the h&r's.
Can't depend on road quality anymore :( Good luck with the H&R sale!
Quote from: SHOdded on February 26, 2016, 03:54:44 PM
Can't depend on road quality anymore :( Good luck with the H&R sale!
I have 2 people waiting already. :)
I'm someone that likes stiff rides, cough. In sense for as long as the road quality is good, as bumpy roads create more stress on the suspension and the rest of the car. For example, after a certain amount of time, rattling might come to existence, be it from exterior or interior, such as dash, doors, roof, consul, and etc. Nevertheless, I hate taking a turn in a car at low or high speeds and have/feel body roll as the car turns. So there exists the tradeoff. Further, I will also say that for me, the PP springs are soft.
I guess nobody knows about the part from the mustang that helps us stay 100% aligned.
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Camber bolts in the strut?
My H&R springs did not go 100% either. I had to buy camber bolts by Specialty products Co. #81280. The top bolt in the rear does not adjust enough to get the 0.5 to 1.5 deg camber in the rear.
Quote from: JasonoftheRugar on March 02, 2016, 09:39:56 PM
My H&R springs did not go 100% either. I had to buy camber bolts by Specialty products Co. #81280. The top bolt in the rear does not adjust enough to get the 0.5 to 1.5 deg camber in the rear.
Thanks this is what I needed!
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Quote from: JasonoftheRugar on March 02, 2016, 09:39:56 PM
My H&R springs did not go 100% either. I had to buy camber bolts by Specialty products Co. #81280. The top bolt in the rear does not adjust enough to get the 0.5 to 1.5 deg camber in the rear.
I got this part but the shop is telling me the bolt is too short. Can you please tell me how you installed it or maybe show a picture which bolt it replaces? Thanks
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Sorry I don't have any pics. My mechanic flips off the camera every time I try to take a pic. I'm curious why they said the bolt was short? When I removed the stock springe the tag on them showed SHO/PP. Did yours?
Quote from: JasonoftheRugar on March 15, 2016, 07:07:34 PM
Sorry I don't have any pics. My mechanic flips off the camera every time I try to take a pic. I'm curious why they said the bolt was short? When I removed the stock springe the tag on them showed SHO/PP. Did yours?
Mine is a non-pp but it should be the same I would thing. Do u remember which bolt they replaced? There is like 3 different ones.
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I'm not 100% but I believe Mike (EPP) mentioned in one of his suspension posts early on that you have to use a shallow/thinner nut.
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Quote from: slurppie on March 15, 2016, 07:32:14 PM
I'm not 100% but I believe Mike mentioned in one of his suspension posts early on that you have to use a shallow/thinner nut.
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That makes sense because the nut is too thick to grab on and tighten it. Do you know which thread it was.
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I believe it's in here, http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=611.msg4249.msg#4249
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Quote from: slurppie on March 15, 2016, 07:39:11 PM
I believe it's in here, http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=611.msg4249.msg#4249 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=611.msg4249.msg#4249)
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Good find Slurppie. Z :)
The nut used must be shallower.
I authored that "How-To" quite a few years ago.
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Why must the nut be shallower?..i looked at the pics?
Mind you it's been 5yrs, but from what I recall, the nut supplied by Specialty Products with their adjustable rear camber bolt, was hitting on something.
It forced me to research/purchase a shallower in height nut.
No problems whatsoever since I originally performed this mod.
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