Hey all!
anyone ever had the air conditioning blow cold while idling.. but as soon as you hit highway speeds it switches to outside air? I have had it it 3 different times at a dealership.. one time they even kept it 3 weeks and gave me a truck to drive.. but to this day it is not fixed because it is intermittent.. ya.. on hot days it quits. great!
I was told they changed condensor.. some temp switch that controls the engine fans and changed the pressure.. only thing I ended up with was turbo tubes not hooked up after leaving the dealership and no power because of it..
so ya! anyone ran into this non cold AC?
Typically, coolant level is low or the condensor in front of the radiator is plugged. If you rev the engine while idling, does it switch to outside air?
That's all assuming there isn't an actual fault with some part of the HVAC system or the CCM itself.
How soon long does it shut down for?
Does it come back if you turn off a/c for a minute or two and turn it back on?
Only on really hot days?
Only on hiway or also in stop and go traffic when hot?
When idling and parked is it draining water out the bottom as it should?
Do you have torque or forscan?
funny I test drove a 2013 PWhite pp this weekend asking 23k with 40k on it... clean car fax..
so I thought everything was going to be ok with it,,
after having the car idle for about 15min before my test drive.
the passenger and rear ac was blowing cold while the drivers side had no cooling affect. like out side air..
messed with the settings and no change... the Freon line in the engine was not cold ...im thinking its low on Freon.. ac compressor was working checked it twice to see if it would kick on..
If only drivers was warm and passenger/rear was nice and cold then it probably just had a bad blend door actuator.
Quote from: 66 Galaxie on August 17, 2015, 05:10:00 PM
If only drivers was warm and passenger/rear was nice and cold then it probably just had a bad blend door actuator.
i bet 66 Galaxie is correct.
Very common problem with these cars. Though the passenger side seems to more common.
I thought the same thing but.
The freon line not being cold... something off..
Also it's a pp and the brakes felt alil spongy.. I know it's a great price but too buy it and already invest money on none performance parts kills...
Quote from: whitltng on August 17, 2015, 06:55:19 PM
I thought the same thing but.
The freon line not being cold... something off..
Also it's a pp and the brakes felt alil spongy.. I know it's a great price but too buy it and already invest money on none performance parts kills...
Have them fix what is almost certainly a blend door problem, check/top off the refrigerant level (it won't be freon), and inspect/ repair brakes as part of the deal... Or reduce the price.... Just saying
Funny I spoke with the manager he said all cars are as is...
It's a big used car dealer down her it's like carmax..
Sho still has power train warranty..
No accidents reported but the front bumper was removed for some reason and the head light has markings from like a lkq yard...
The car is in really great shape I'm just alil picky
Quote from: whitltng on August 17, 2015, 08:32:29 PM
Funny I spoke with the manager he said all cars are as is...
It's a big used car dealer down her it's like carmax..
Sho still has power train warranty..
No accidents reported but the front bumper was removed for some reason and the head light has markings from like a lkq yard...
The car is in really great shape I'm just alil picky
How many miles on it?
40.444 ...carfax accounted for... meaning millage reported every year..
Quote from: whitltng on August 17, 2015, 08:32:29 PM
Funny I spoke with the manager he said all cars are as is...
It's a big used car dealer down her it's like carmax..
Sho still has power train warranty..
No accidents reported but the front bumper was removed for some reason and the head light has markings from like a lkq yard...
The car is in really great shape I'm just alil picky
I would be very suspicious and walk away from it too with signs of a possible collision, no warranty and existing problems that are easy and inexpensive for any kind of dealer to fix...
Interesting, I had the same thing happen to mine last year. No cold air. Turns out it was low on refrigerant. They topped it up and it's been fine ever since.
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in love with the car.. I was looking at a fusion T but this white sho would match my lightning so well.... both are very nice.
66.. the car wasn't in a big car accident or anything crazy..
s*** might be just a new head light because the paint on the front bumper matches everything perfect. I might track down the original owner and ask him a few questions
Have a good mechanic do a pre purchase inspection and thorough inspection of the body/chassis when it is up on a lift.
Bumper may have been removed for something simple like the a/c condensor or?
Good luck!
Quote from: 66 Galaxie on August 17, 2015, 04:41:14 PM
How soon long does it shut down for?
Does it come back if you turn off a/c for a minute or two and turn it back on?
Only on really hot days?
Only on hiway or also in stop and go traffic when hot?
When idling and parked is it draining water out the bottom as it should?
Do you have torque or forscan?
always comes back to cold when back to what seems to be almost engine idle speed or under 1500 rpm.. get up over 60km/h speed and anything other than light throttle and it is instant blowing warm.. you can smell the change in air coming then the warm hits you.. very frustrating! my 1997 f350 blows ice cold on low fan speed even in 33 celcius!! haha sorry about all the metric stuff
but if I lived in the hot states this car would kill you with interior temps.
went to the dealer again and of course idling in the driveway it blows cold.. he comes out with his little vent thermometer and says all is good.. I said get in and lets drive.. they would only do that on customer pay if no problem is found.. gotta a love the warranty/lack thereof.
love the car.. but since day one of ordering this thing and dealing with them and other shops is painful.
Quote from: shotime99 on August 18, 2015, 05:43:45 PM
Quote from: 66 Galaxie on August 17, 2015, 04:41:14 PM
How soon long does it shut down for?
Does it come back if you turn off a/c for a minute or two and turn it back on?
Only on really hot days?
Only on hiway or also in stop and go traffic when hot?
When idling and parked is it draining water out the bottom as it should?
Do you have torque or forscan?
always comes back to cold when back to what seems to be almost engine idle speed or under 1500 rpm.. get up over 60km/h speed and anything other than light throttle and it is instant blowing warm.. you can smell the change in air coming then the warm hits you.. very frustrating! my 1997 f350 blows ice cold on low fan speed even in 33 celcius!! haha sorry about all the metric stuff
but if I lived in the hot states this car would kill you with interior temps.
went to the dealer again and of course idling in the driveway it blows cold.. he comes out with his little vent thermometer and says all is good.. I said get in and lets drive.. they would only do that on customer pay if no problem is found.. gotta a love the warranty/lack thereof.
love the car.. but since day one of ordering this thing and dealing with them and other shops is painful.
Get a new dealer, talk to the shop foreman and dealership manager. BURN them on the FMC satisfaction survey and tell Ford why.
Check your coolant level? should be at full mark with engine cold/turned off and parked on level ground. Wouldn't hurt to add an inch or two of the correct coolant even so, to see if the level goes down any and if the problem resolves.
They ran dye through the HVAC, and nothing was found? Is it assumable that the refrigerant level is OK? You can track AC status & pressures with Forscan, haven't checked with Torque. I see refrigerant pressures around 600 kPa when off and up to 1700 kPa when on full blast.
Sometimes the AC pressure switch does fail. Or the Schrader valve in the ports for the Hi and/or Lo sides gets stuck, so a fill/fill level indication is incorrect.
Newer cars are getting more sensitive to incorrect refrigerant levels and too much or too little can cause all sorts of cold air challenges.
If you have access to a set of gauges check the low and high side pressure in the system.
When parked I would see if it stops blowing cold when you hold the engine speed around d 2000rpm (above the 1500rpm where you have seen it stay cold. If so you have a way of showing the tech what it is doing.
If you have Forscan or Forscan or know someone who does I would look at a/c high pressure sensor data (compressor shuts down if too high), engine temp (compressor shuts down if engine is too hot), a/c voltage (shows you what the compressor is getting to tell it to be engaged)