Misfire on cylinder 6 and this code also. Should I be checking #6 more closely?
http://www.dtcsearch.com/P0150/?from=Torque (http://www.dtcsearch.com/P0150/?from=Torque)
Initial diagnosis would be bad upstream bank 2 sensor (and/or wiring). Worth checking the valve cover for leak and spark plug condition. Fuel injector COULD be a possibility, but not first line. So could coils/PCM if you get bad misfires/sputtering later on.
Dash lit up like Christmas.
ABS LIGHT
TCS LIGHT
EMERGENCY BRAKE LIGHT
solid with collision warning disabled message.
Collision is flashing on and off. Car is clean. Wife had led bar in dash light up at random also.
Really feeling a lemon all of a sudden. No warranty either. Ha. Great.
What obd adapter are you using? I had a cheaper adapter randomly cause the computer to "freak out" and it will scare the you know what out of you..
Try disconnecting the battery and doing a kam reset.
http://youtu.be/hZAsoqmqhdM
Maybe check ground cables.
I had some crazy things happen with bad loose grounds.
Good thought ecoboostsho. I was using the elm327 adapter and had this happen.
Elm327 was the cause. Wouldn't have ever considered that.
Next week it's going on to a hoist and getting Transmission service and PTU looked at. Hoping it's the cause of my noise.
I'm back at square one with it. We've more or less ruled out the motor as there's no drop in power when sound occurs.
So far it occurs more often on hills than flat road, is barely audiable on flat road actually. I've had success making it occur while accelerating where before it only occured after a shift. Still a hit and miss noise but much more frequent with a warm car. Also going have #6 scoped just to see if things are ok in there. Seeing as that's been my most consistent CEL.
Did you try to swap the coils around,if its a random misfire could be low fuel pressure,do you have any idea if she is running lean? Z
Swapped #6 coil with #5. We're also going to check injectors. The fellow doing the work was saying if my car was knocking that bad I'd be having the knock sensors drop power, and it would throw more codes.
Still going to investigate throughly as we can. Hoping to check top end stuff before we start into the drive line just to make very sure.
I can clear the code and it be gone for 2 weeks or more then it comes back. Will replace plug to eliminate that possibility.