Does anyone know the torque specs for the spark plugs on a 2014 SHO? Should I use anti seize on the threads? I got my pre-gapped plugs in the mail and I'm curious.
IMO, anti seize is smart to use between any two dissimilar metals.
IIRC, tq spec is 11 lbs. Though, I'd bet anywhere between 10 and 14 is suitable.
thank you!
Doesn't anti seize impact torque rating? I was always taught that you should lower the torque when the threads are "wet".
Quote from: slurppie on March 30, 2015, 09:30:34 PM
Doesn't anti seize impact torque rating? I was always taught that you should lower the torque when the threads are "wet".
It does, and that's why you should not be too strict on torque rating, rather fit the plugs in snugly by feel, not force it to meet an absolute spec. I've seen recommendations of reduction in torque from 1/4 to 1/3, but again, going by feel is key.
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html (http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html)
http://www.bostik-us.com/sites/default/files/N1%20NeverSeez%20Brochure%202011.pdf (http://www.bostik-us.com/sites/default/files/N1%20NeverSeez%20Brochure%202011.pdf)
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf)
Make sure your NGK plugs don't already have antisieze coating as it is not recommended to mix'n'match coatings.
I've heard that before, yeah. But, I wonder is that more of a concern in an iron head, where you're applying quite a bit more torque.
If you factor in a 10 or 15 percent increase in torque from anti sieze, at 11 pounds, I still think you're in a safe zone with an aluminum head.
Just apply conservatively. It only takes a dab. Or, use none at all. Assuming you intend to change plugs regularly, it's likely seizure wouldn't ever be an issue.
Also related, any of you do the rear plugs recently? Should I take out the intlet tube to get to the plug closest to the driver seat?
I have changed out my plugs three times aleady at 22k on her,there is no need to remove anything,just when your removing cylinder #6 coil just try pulling the intake tube twards the passenger side,so it gives you a little more room to work with,there is one bolt by the intake manifold,you can loosen that up a bit in order to maneuver it just a bit if you want to.Z
Z,
Did you use anti-seize and dielectric grease?
I made a how-to once. Can't recall if I made pipe removal apart of it or not. Ha
You can do it with out removing or loosen things. But sometimes one or two extra bolts really help. I did remove the bolt that holds the tube across the top of the motor and separated at the front of the motor to allow it to move out of the way easier. But it's a simple job
Quote from: PokerMunkee on March 31, 2015, 04:30:22 PM
Z,
Did you use anti-seize and dielectric grease?
I would put just a tiny tab of antiseize around the threads and apply liberally some dielectric grease around the inside of the boots and you can loosen up the piping to make it a little easier removing #6 cylinder boot,pics of it below,and make sure to swap the correct 3-bar in top of the intake manifold.Z
Quote from: ZSHO on April 02, 2015, 09:25:56 AM
I would put just a tiny tab of antiseize around the threads and apply liberally some dielectric grease around the inside of the boots and you can loosen up the piping to make it a little easier removing #6 cylinder boot,pics of it below,and make sure to swap the correct 3-bar in top of the intake manifold.Z
ZSHO-- rock solid advice. That back plug was a beeeaaaaaaatch to get to. I had to hand tighten the plug as there was no good way to get the torque wrench under that charge pipe. ( I even have a 3 piece set extender set and no combination would work :/ )
I took a time lapsed video of the front plugs.. I'll be posting it up to you tube eventually.
Quote from: 14SHOCAR on April 03, 2015, 09:21:10 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on April 02, 2015, 09:25:56 AM
I would put just a tiny tab of antiseize around the threads and apply liberally some dielectric grease around the inside of the boots and you can loosen up the piping to make it a little easier removing #6 cylinder boot,pics of it below,and make sure to swap the correct 3-bar in top of the intake manifold.Z
ZSHO-- rock solid advice. That back plug was a beeeaaaaaaatch to get to. I had to hand tighten the plug as there was no good way to get the torque wrench under that charge pipe. ( I even have a 3 piece set extender set and no combination would work :/ )
I took a time lapsed video of the front plugs.. I'll be posting it up to you tube eventually.
I posted this a little while back,next time you do the plugs if you have a 3/8 ratchet with a swivel socket it will make it alot easier and usually they recommend changing the plugs every 12k,especially with a tune(enjoy).Z