I am basically in the process of installing the Rx catch can,but on a side note and prior to getting the RX,i basically modified the front oil seperator hose and attached a K&N filter to one side and plugged the intake port,after a couple of months this is how my red filter looked like and filled up with oil.
Wow, nice "catch", Z! Where are you planning to locate the catch can?
Thanks MANU,basically trying to do get an idea where to mount the catch can,found a convenient spot right next to the washer fuid reservoir,will proceed with results as soon it gets a little warmer,just to darn cold for know.
You should remote mount the washer fluid reservoir and leave that whole area free for the catch can lol. Make a cooling duct from the fender for it too ;)
That is where I mounted mine. I wanted to mount it in the fender area but the can just was a bit too big
I know the catch cans arent being mentioned or a hot topic as when they first came available,quick question is it safe to only use the front side RX clean side seperator for know until it gets warmer out to complete the install,cause installed the front only and noticed the car to be a bit smoother than before,especially the idle,if any of the gurus can chime in greatly appreciate it.Z.
I believe it works independently of the "dirty" side separator. 95% of the bad stuff comes out of the dirty side. Even sold separately as a stand alone product from RX.
I received an email from RX extreme stating that the cleanside will help,but without correcting the lack of evacuation during boost,it will push alot through it,cant hurt though,they responde pretty quickly and mentioned let us know if we can be more of an assistance the RX team. :thumb: :thumb:
Sweet!
I have a JLT on the PCV side, is the UPR available just for the cleanside? Also, anyone try the CFM breather for the oil fill cap?
Quote from: metroplex on December 19, 2016, 04:16:22 AM
I have a JLT on the PCV side, is the UPR available just for the cleanside? Also, anyone try the CFM breather for the oil fill cap?
Try giving UPR a call, they have amazing customer service (I have bought all of my mustang suspension from them). Even if they don't typically offer something as a kit, since they make most parts in house, they usually will make you a custom kit.
Quote from: ZSHO on February 26, 2015, 11:13:41 AM
I received an email from RX extreme stating that the cleanside will help,but without correcting the lack of evacuation during boost,it will push alot through it,cant hurt though,they responde pretty quickly and mentioned let us know if we can be more of an assistance the RX team. :thumb: :thumb:
Yeah, I got a similar response from them regarding the CSS, because I wanted to vent mine to atmosphere. They said the system will sometimes "burp" and push oil out, but in reality, that's what the CSS is designed to prevent - it separates the oil from the air (or most of it).
I would see no harm in just running the CSS without the rest of your can installed. In fact, this would actually help a little, since you are removing the connection to the charge piping. Any oil burped would migrate to your filter instead of into the intake. Anything you can do to prevent recirculation of oil into the intake (BOV VTA, CSS) is good in my book. :)
Quote from: metroplex on December 19, 2016, 04:16:22 AM
I have a JLT on the PCV side, is the UPR available just for the cleanside? Also, anyone try the CFM breather for the oil fill cap?
You don't need a catch can for the clean side. The clean side is primarily a fresh air intake for crank case ventilation. Even on the RX can, the clean side is routed to the filtered side of the airbox (to keep a closed loop system) or to atmosphere (zero vacuum).
The CSS (clean side separator) is just to keep the oil from migrating down your plumbing for the occasional "burps". Primary direction of flow on the clean side is IN to the valve cover.
QuoteYou don't need a catch can for the clean side. The clean side is primarily a fresh air intake for crank case ventilation. Even on the RX can, the clean side is routed to the filtered side of the airbox (to keep a closed loop system) or to atmosphere (zero vacuum).
The CSS (clean side separator) is just to keep the oil from migrating down your plumbing for the occasional "burps". Primary direction of flow on the clean side is IN to the valve cover.
That's true in theory, just like the PCV valve is a one-way valve so you don't really need an oil separator. But reality seems to be the PCV system allows a lot of oil/vapors to enter the intake manifold, and the cleanside crankcase ventilation does allow fresh air to enter the crankcase, but it can also send a lot of oil vapors into the air tract as shown by ZSHO's photos, and the fact when you look in your air intake tract and intercooler, it is an oily mess.
Quote from: metroplex on December 22, 2016, 04:37:51 AM
QuoteYou don't need a catch can for the clean side. The clean side is primarily a fresh air intake for crank case ventilation. Even on the RX can, the clean side is routed to the filtered side of the airbox (to keep a closed loop system) or to atmosphere (zero vacuum).
The CSS (clean side separator) is just to keep the oil from migrating down your plumbing for the occasional "burps". Primary direction of flow on the clean side is IN to the valve cover.
That's true in theory, just like the PCV valve is a one-way valve so you don't really need an oil separator. But reality seems to be the PCV system allows a lot of oil/vapors to enter the intake manifold, and the cleanside crankcase ventilation does allow fresh air to enter the crankcase, but it can also send a lot of oil vapors into the air tract as shown by ZSHO's photos, and the fact when you look in your air intake tract and intercooler, it is an oily mess.
You are absolutely right. It's hard to tell in ZSHO's photos exactly where the CSS routing is terminating, but the RX instructions say to install a hose barb in the air box lid (filtered side) for the CSS. In theory, this has low vacuum and shouldn't draw much vapor under boost. As you pointed out, theory can be different from reality. I can't remember who now, but someone in JimiJak's XSport write up mentioned they saw some oil seeping into the air box as well when plumbed per RX instructions. This was resolved with a check valve and rerouting the hose, but I'm not sure if this held up long term.
Personally, I resolved this by venting the CSS to atmosphere and removed it from the intake a circuit completely. However, WI is a non-inspection (OBD2 only) state so this was an acceptable solution to me which may not work for others.
Blow off valves are also a source of oil vapors getting back into the intake, and can be resolved by VTA, if you can tolerate the noise. :)
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How would the blow off valves reintroduce vapors in the intake tract? Do you know what size K&N filters and vacuum plugs I need to do the VTA BOV on the SHO or Xsport?
Quote from: metroplex on December 22, 2016, 08:00:53 AM
How would the blow off valves reintroduce vapors in the intake tract? Do you know what size K&N filters and vacuum plugs I need to do the VTA BOV on the SHO or Xsport?
Sorry for the unclear statement. It doesn't re-introduce crankcase vapors, but it can reintroduce oil already in the system.
I love this graphic.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/c27ee10871f3a7b1afbc1105d93182ff.png)
The BOVs are on the cool side discharge piping (charge pipes), which run to the CAC. In the OE configuration, when the BOV is actuated, air pressure is released from the charge pipes back to the cool side ambient inlet piping (the same piping the clean side tube runs).
Any oil/vapors in the charged air go along for the ride back to the turbo inlet when the BOV opens. The VTA mod blows out into the air instead of back into the intake side.
The only sources of oil/water vapor in the intake (I think) is from the OE clean side tubing, blow by from the turbos, humidity in the ambient intake air, and/or filter oil from an over oiled filter (if in use). The OE BOV plumbing just helps the oil continue to circulate in the intake.
If you don't have a lot of turbo blow by, then resolving the cleanside tubing (and not over oiling a filter) should keep most new oil from being introduced. VTA breaks the cycle as well by not blowing back to the intake piping. Somewhere on this forum there is a picture of someone who did the VTA mod that has oil drips on the BOV. I don't believe an OCC was in service.
When I installed my OCC, I cleaned all my charge/intake piping, and the BOVs are still bone dry approx 4200 miles later. Shortly after, I flushed my CAC.
Technically, a filter isn't necessary on the BOV since air doesn't flow back in, but it might help catch residual oil if you can't clean your plumbing.
Somebody was playing with filters to try and lessen the sound, I think, but I'm not sure the part numbers. I'll see if I can dig up the thread later today.
@derfdog15 is selling some extra charge pipe caps for VTA while supplies last.
Sorry for the long explanation. I know you probably grasp most or all of this, but lurking and reading these types of posts helped me learn when I was first starting out. :)
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Quote from: MiWiAu on December 22, 2016, 08:57:24 AM
Quote from: metroplex on December 22, 2016, 08:00:53 AM
How would the blow off valves reintroduce vapors in the intake tract? Do you know what size K&N filters and vacuum plugs I need to do the VTA BOV on the SHO or Xsport?
Sorry for the unclear statement. It doesn't re-introduce crankcase vapors, but it can reintroduce oil already in the system.
I love this graphic.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/c27ee10871f3a7b1afbc1105d93182ff.png)
The BOVs are on the cool side discharge piping (charge pipes), which run to the CAC. In the OE configuration, when the BOV is actuated, air pressure is released from the charge pipes back to the cool side ambient inlet piping (the same piping the clean side tube runs).
Any oil/vapors in the charged air go along for the ride back to the turbo inlet when the BOV opens. The VTA mod blows out into the air instead of back into the intake side.
The only sources of oil/water vapor in the intake (I think) is from the OE clean side tubing, blow by from the turbos, humidity in the ambient intake air, and/or filter oil from an over oiled filter (if in use). The OE BOV plumbing just helps the oil continue to circulate in the intake.
If you don't have a lot of turbo blow by, then resolving the cleanside tubing (and not over oiling a filter) should keep most new oil from being introduced. VTA breaks the cycle as well by not blowing back to the intake piping. Somewhere on this forum there is a picture of someone who did the VTA mod that has oil drips on the BOV. I don't believe an OCC was in service.
When I installed my OCC, I cleaned all my charge/intake piping, and the BOVs are still bone dry approx 4200 miles later. Shortly after, I flushed my CAC.
Technically, a filter isn't necessary on the BOV since air doesn't flow back in, but it might help catch residual oil if you can't clean your plumbing.
Somebody was playing with filters to try and lessen the sound, I think, but I'm not sure the part numbers. I'll see if I can dig up the thread later today.
@derfdog15 is selling some extra charge pipe caps for VTA while supplies last.
Sorry for the long explanation. I know you probably grasp most or all of this, but lurking and reading these types of posts helped me learn when I was first starting out. :)
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MiWiAu is correct.....you will need a 1in silicone cap offered by Derfdog
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7164.0.html. (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7164.0.html.)
I recall using a 3/4 I.D to cap the port for VTA. Z https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ERXXF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ERXXF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
In respect to the K&N breather filter you can use a 5/8 Flange I.D for the elbow . Z
http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm (http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm)
Good explanation! I was just wondering if there's any negative aspects, like more turbo lag that some speculated would happen. I think I measured the air intake tract nipples at one point and they are just under 1 inch if I recall correctly. Any tips on removing the rear BOV clamps/plumbing?
I noticed K&N is now using non-woven synthetic fiber media instead of cotton gauze for most of their crankcase filters, and they only recommend using their new synthetic filter cleaner without oiling the filters.
I noticed that on my 2014 SHO, any breather installed on the valve cover prevents me from using the engine cover. Maybe I'm missing something, or the 2010-2011's were different, or the new K&N filters are different?
Quote from: metroplex on December 23, 2016, 09:29:16 AM
Good explanation! I was just wondering if there's any negative aspects, like more turbo lag that some speculated would happen. I think I measured the air intake tract nipples at one point and they are just under 1 inch if I recall correctly. Any tips on removing the rear BOV clamps/plumbing?
I noticed K&N is now using non-woven synthetic fiber media instead of cotton gauze for most of their crankcase filters, and they only recommend using their new synthetic filter cleaner without oiling the filters.
I noticed that on my 2014 SHO, any breather installed on the valve cover prevents me from using the engine cover. Maybe I'm missing something, or the 2010-2011's were different, or the new K&N filters are different?
I couldn't feel any difference after doing VTA. I was on a stock tune and did not data log before/after, but I can't imagine a huge difference either way from a performance standpoint.
For the rear BOV clamps, hose clamp pliers are a life saver!! https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9409A-Hose-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B003D3N7YW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482507837&sr=8-4&keywords=spring+clamp+pliers (https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9409A-Hose-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B003D3N7YW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482507837&sr=8-4&keywords=spring+clamp+pliers). There are some cheaper options out there, but with these, you'll have the rear tube off in less than 3 minutes. :)
I've not researched K&N filters, so I'm not sure the size options. I just posted in your cleanside solutions thread with some other possible options for the breather, like maybe using an elbow and remote locating a filter, so you could still install your cover.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7178.0/topicseen.html (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7178.0/topicseen.html)
Hope it helps! :)
Awesome tip about the tool! I've never heard of those type of pliers, but I ordered the OTC version. Are the vacuum caps about 1" or less in diameter? I recall my notes saying 15/16" would work better but that was in February when I was recovering from major surgery and it was bitterly cold outside.
I used to think the VTA BOV was merely for a bit more sound, but I will definitely try it just to help reduce the amount of heated air going back into the air intake tract. The SHO desperately needs better intercoolers. Even at 30F ambient at the track the IAT2/MCT spikes big time with any amount of boost over stock. My Cobalt SS Turbo can race at 90F ambient and the factory front mounted intercooler has a charge temp that is only like 20-30 degrees more than ambient, and quickly drops (but it also uses a K04 running 22 psi, with a diverter valve and MAF system).
Quote from: metroplex on December 23, 2016, 09:04:20 PM
Awesome tip about the tool! I've never heard of those type of pliers, but I ordered the OTC version. Are the vacuum caps about 1" or less in diameter? I recall my notes saying 15/16" would work better but that was in February when I was recovering from major surgery and it was bitterly cold outside.
I had never heard of that tool either, but got the tip either here or explorerforums. I wish I could remember the original tipper, so I could give him credit. But yeah, totally worth it for that back clamp. I actually elected to re-use the spring clamp on my rear BOV port (I used it for an OCC vacuum source). You can lock the spring clamp open with the tool and re-install using the same process in reverse. :)
I used a cap for mine for 1" OD tube. Looking at derdog's caps, he is also using 1 to 1-1/16" OD caps. You might be able to squeeze on a 15/16" cap if you can find one. Count on using a hose clamp regardless to seal it up.
Good luck!
The caps I bought are 1"-1 1/6" OD Caps and fit perfect IMO. Pretty snug, but able to be taken off if needed without a lot of extra work.
I bought 1-1/16" a long time ago based on what everyone wrote, but they basically fit like Magnum condoms on baby carrots. I currently have 15/16" that are very snug (needed some lube to slide on).
BTW - what brand caps did you use? I see MOCAP lists 1.6mm wall thickness for their 1.06" caps, but it is 1.4mm thickness for smaller caps. I got my 15/16" from McMaster and the wall thickness is about 0.060" nominal. They seem rather thin. My caps are domed at the top, so I wonder if the dome would cave in under vacuum.
Quote from: metroplex on December 24, 2016, 07:23:12 PM
I bought 1-1/16" a long time ago based on what everyone wrote, but they basically fit like Magnum condoms on baby carrots. I currently have 15/16" that are very snug (needed some lube to slide on).
BTW - what brand caps did you use? I see MOCAP lists 1.6mm wall thickness for their 1.06" caps, but it is 1.4mm thickness for smaller caps. I got my 15/16" from McMaster and the wall thickness is about 0.060" nominal. They seem rather thin. My caps are domed at the top, so I wonder if the dome would cave in under vacuum.
I'm not sure what brand mine were. I actually bought some scuff caps for a chair at the local True Value. I think they came in a two pack. I may have tossed the other one. I just capped the front one. I use the rear charge pipe BOV port as a vacuum source for my OCC.
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