Was on my way to lunch and the car started bucking hard and then died at an intersection. Pulled codes via torque and all that showed up was cylinder 3 misfire. Plugs are Motorcraft Sp534s and have 3k on them. Always run 93 octane on my 4 plus tune. What are the cylinder numbers for the front and rear bank. Will pull plugs after class. Also before this happened the ac got warm and its only 85 degrees and I was just crusing real slow like a grandma.
Is there a strong gas smell? Could be an injector stuck on...
No gas smell at all, I have noticed at idle that the car would have some white smoke or condensation for the last month or so in the morning even when it was 70 degrees outside. I also noticed that torque is showing the coolant temp to be 145 degrees, and the coolant temp gauge is below it snormal operating area, and prior to this happening the gauge was in the middle between c and h. The factory 02's are reading an A/F ratio of 9.8 to 1 and calling for 14.7.
Quote from: racingmason23 on July 21, 2014, 01:13:35 PM
No gas smell at all, I have noticed at idle that the car would have some white smoke or condensation for the last month or so in the morning even when it was 70 degrees outside. I also noticed that torque is showing the coolant temp to be 145 degrees, and the coolant temp gauge is below it snormal operating area, and prior to this happening the gauge was in the middle between c and h. The factory 02's are reading an A/F ratio of 9.8 to 1 and calling for 14.7.
9.8 to 1 is ridiculously rich at idle. That would seem to indicate a lot of gas is present...
Weird on the coolant gauge though. Are you saying it's at 145 right now? The car doesn't run correct? I'm trying to figure out if it just cooled down to that temp or if you are running it and it won't warm up?
Sorry I got it started but it runs real rough. I drove it slow back to school. Max temp was 145 degrees. Its 85 out right now, and it always runs around 179 to 189 driving the same way. Where is cylinder number 3?
Could this be from keeping the obdlink plugged in?
Does it light up dash warnings when started?
Great question. I searched but only found it for the F150 - not sure what the "front" would be in the Transverse application. I will keep looking...perhaps someone else will chime in that knows.
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 01:29:32 PM
Could this be from keeping the obdlink plugged in?
I don't see how. I still think it sounds like an injector given the insane A/F ratio and other symptoms he's got.
That ratio is crazy...first call would be to tuner...then back to stock to see if you can duplicate.
As you stand in front of the engine bay I 'think' it's the back right one (drivers side farthest away from the front). Don't hold me to that though. If it isn't that one then it should be the closest left standing in front of the car and facing it.
How is your coolant level?
Hope it's closest left...as the back right is hardest to get to I think.
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 01:29:32 PM
Could this be from keeping the obdlink plugged in?
are we not supposed to leave the OBD plugged in?
i used to leave mine in the port all the time and one day the car wouldn't turn over intially and then kept scrolling thru the menus once it did start...
Quote from: MeanKS on July 21, 2014, 03:15:48 PM
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 01:29:32 PM
Could this be from keeping the obdlink plugged in?
are we not supposed to leave the OBD plugged in?
i used to leave mine in the port all the time and one day the car wouldn't turn over intially and then kept scrolling thru the menus once it did start...
I guess if you have link in and don't shut torque down it will throw all kinds of dash warnings at you when starting. Had this happen the other day. I just unplug to be sure now.
I keep mine plugged in all the time and Torque just goes to sleep. I have never had an issue.
Does this happen in stock set up? Or just while running tune?
Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 21, 2014, 03:23:14 PM
I keep mine plugged in all the time and Torque just goes to sleep. I have never had an issue.
Lucky you, twice it's happened now as the wife informed it did it to her also.
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 03:25:13 PM
Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 21, 2014, 03:23:14 PM
I keep mine plugged in all the time and Torque just goes to sleep. I have never had an issue.
Lucky you, twice it's happened now as the wife informed it did it to her also.
Weird...I could see why that would be unnerving...
like someone else suggested/ asked.... return to stock tune. Clear codes (even if none are showing on dash) and see if problem persists.
And I would disconnect the OBDII dongle ether way. Doesn't matter if people don't experience probs with it in all the time. Their cars are also working right now. Eliminate as many variables as possible when diagnosing. ;)
Running that rich may have fouled plugs though.
Quote from: kinder on July 21, 2014, 03:57:16 PM
like someone else suggested/ asked.... return to stock tune. Clear codes (even if none are showing on dash) and see if problem persists.
And I would disconnect the OBDII dongle ether way. Doesn't matter if people don't experience probs with it in all the time. Their cars are also working right now. Eliminate as many variables as possible when diagnosing. ;)
Running that rich may have fouled plugs though.
As soon as I get done with class I will swap out MAP sensors, change tune back to stock, and then see if the problem persists. I do not leave the bluetooth OBDII plugged in unless I am datalogging. If it is still acting up I will swap coil 3 with another coil and see if it still throws a code. It is my understanding that it is based off the crank sensor determing that when that cylinder should be firing it is not seeing an increase in rotational speed, therefore it can determine what cylinder is misfiring. Just my luck it is on the backside of the engine. :?
I believe #3 is on the backside, closest to the driver. Copying the diagram from elsewhere on the 'net, as you stand in front of the SHO, looking towards the windshield:
1 2 3
O O O
----------
O O O
4 5 6
#1-3 are on the backside, #4-6 are on the front, easiest to access. I believe BiGMaC's SHO had a valve cover leak in that location, could have shorted out the coil, possibly causing the spark not to fire properly even though fuel is spraying.
Quote from: SHOdded on July 21, 2014, 04:38:18 PM
I believe #3 is on the backside, closest to the driver. Copying the diagram from elsewhere on the 'net, as you stand in front of the SHO, looking towards the windshield:
1 2 3
O O O
----------
O O O
4 5 6
#1-3 are on the backside, #4-6 are on the front, easiest to access. I believe BiGMaC's SHO had a valve cover leak in that location, could have shorted out the coil, possibly causing the spark not to fire properly even though fuel is spraying.
Swapped 3 and 6s coil and reset ecu. Get the same cylinder 3 misfire. Once engine cools down I will pull plug. A friend followed me hime and said the car smelled of fuel bad and had blue smoke babying it.
Here is a link to the cylinder numbering. I knew I posted it up a while back when I was having some issues with misfire codes. I change to plug and all has been well since.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2208.msg31602.html#msg31602 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2208.msg31602.html#msg31602)
So I swapped the coils around and reset the tune to factory and swapped back to a two bar map sensor. Still takes 15 seconds to fire and runs like poop. Smells like gas out the exhaust and when a load is put on it I get bluish smoke, and the cylinder 3 misfire comes back along with the P00C6. Has anyone changed out injectors before? It looks like I have to pull the intake manifold to get to them, and I have no clue what it looks like under there. I'm guessing Ford will charge about a grand, and my extended warranty on the powertrain won't cover it. I guess I will have to do it my self if the extended warranty doesn't cover it.
Edit: Drove it down the block and just smells like gas horribly. Also am getting bank one rich codes and showing almost 1v on bank 1 02 sensor. its also calling for bank one to goto -30% on fuel trim.
Highly inadvisable to drive the car in this condition, risk ruining your cats with the excess fuel. Try this free Chilton's resource online referred to in this post:
http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/#entry103079 (http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/#entry103079)
Click this link "http://infotrac.galegroup.com/itweb/hunt35713?db=CHLL" at the bottom of the page to bring up the library page. Then click on Proceed to redirect to the Chilton Library homepage.
How many miles are on the car?
Hate to see a car down like this. If i was close I'd help you swap the injector.
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 22, 2014, 01:00:23 AM
How many miles are on the car?
Hate to see a car down like this. If i was close I'd help you swap the injector.
61k. It doesn't look to bad just pull the intake and then 6 bolts on the rail along with the fuel line. The chilton link was awesome let me pull up the sho manual. It says I need a injector puller to get it out of the cylinder head and a tool to put the orings on the new injector.
My local dealer has the injector listed at 196 and tasca has them listed at 90. I was debating towing it to the dealer for a fuel fliw test where the measure fuel pressure and turn on and of each injector but I don't think the $75 is needed.
A real test of the injectors can only be done on the bench, unfortunately. And I believe that would cost just a wee bit more than $75 all said and done, AFTER you pulled the injectors yourself!
http://clean.injectorrx.com/ (http://clean.injectorrx.com/)
http://witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php/ (http://witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php/)
The cost for shipping back and forth and time lost here can be ofset by new injectors. The ford tech said he can have them cycle in the car one by one and read the fuel pressure. The one that is open will show more pressure than the other two on the same bank due more flow with 1.5 injectors open.
Screw it. Just called the local dealer and he thinks he can get it today for $197. hopefully it will be a quick swap
If they can fix it for $200, it will be the best $200 you've spent in a long time. Let them handle it.
I remember this post of a '10 guy having a stuck injector. Another member posts at the end he had to pay $1,100 to fix same thing: http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16665 (http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16665)
Go for it. Good luck!
Just to throw this out there, but my misfire ended up being a cracked piston. Car would shudder and surge when starting up and the exhaust definitely had a very rich smell. Never had a chance to hook my Torque up to see what my ratio was...
Dealer replaced plugs, swapped coils, did a contribution balance test on the injectors, and finally a compression test showed #2 was down 19% vs the other cylinders.
If this is the case for him wouldn't there be excessive blow by and fuel contaminated oil? You could check for these things first.
I had excess oil on the CCV system caused by blowby, but I didn't magically gain oil in the pan. Haven't had a chance to really go over the details with my service adviser, but I'm pretty sure there wasn't any oil dilution beyond "spec".
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 22, 2014, 12:03:08 PM
If this is the case for him wouldn't there be excessive blow by and fuel contaminated oil? You could check for these things first.
I had just changed the oil a week ago. It still looks like it did when it was poured in. There was minimal condesation/oil in the CAC at the same time when I checked/cleaned it.
Quote from: PokerMunkee on July 22, 2014, 10:04:57 AM
If they can fix it for $200, it will be the best $200 you've spent in a long time. Let them handle it.
I remember this post of a '10 guy having a stuck injector. Another member posts at the end he had to pay $1,100 to fix same thing: http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16665 (http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16665)
Thanks. Went to pick up injector and decided to see how much money i would save by doing it myself. It came back to $426 installed. The fact it is hot outside and I don't have a garage sold me to just have them swap it for $200 in labor and $200 for the injector and they will fill the coolant and bleed it for me.