Looks like I am heading to the dealer AGAIN with cracking leather seats. I just had these replaced last year and the driver side outer edge is cracking again
That sucks. I would be very unhappy
My is doing the same thing. It's not cracking, it's getting cut from the edge of the plastic.
It's extremely sharp.
Any luck with warranty on this sort of thing? Just curious I guess. My drivers seat has the symptoms glock described. Otherwise, any clue on the cost of a new seat cover? Do I want to know lol...
I'll offer an opinion. The area that's cracking is vinyl. The leather seats are always a combo of leather and matching vinyl. Vinyl is usually placed where no body contact will occur. The sharp edge I don't think is cutting the vinyl I think it's from extreme repeated flexing. Every time you get in or out of the seat body weight bends and pinches the vinyl between leg/butt and hard plastic trim. Leather flexes better long term than vinyl so if they had leather in that spot, it would hold up better but the bean counters have to find places to save money so for as long as I've been involved with car trim (50 years), all manufacturers put matching vinyl in that spot....and it cracks. Mine is getting worse and I'm watching it. At some point it will bug me bad enough to yank out the seat, pull the upholstery off and put some new material in to replace the cracked. When I do you can bet I'll use leather. I'm dragging my feet cause it's such a PITA job and oh yeah I'm not as young as I used to be. LOL Bucket seat weighs a ton!
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Larry....... I was totally unaware of your position in the interior industry, and for as many years as you report! :bowdown:
Very cool! :ok:
IDK if you could offer any opinion on the following, however, having seen other owner's complaints (about the cracking "leather") just as the OP reports here..... I have been religious about routinely applying a leather conditioning product.
My choice thus far has been Meguiar's Leather Conditioner.
It has held up pretty well thus far, and it's advertised to replenish the moisture content molecularly within the "leather" itself, that ultimately not only protects the material, but also allows it remain moist/pliable/flexible, and thus in turn...... preventing the cracking issue so many others have experienced.
Based on my usage alone, and knowing I haven't had any issues to date, what are your thoughts on these types of products?
I had the 1992 Fox body Mustang seats I bought for my 68 recoved completely custom for $400 total.
I did just drop off the seats but it should cost too much to get that small seciont replaced with something better if needed. Looks like it creasing from constant flexing there or possibly from something pushing out on it from the inside ???
My drivers seat was like this when I bought the car. Ford covered it under warranty while I was under the factory 3-36. Now I am OCD about keeping it conditioned to prolong the life. I had been using Meg's but I switched to Adams leather conditioner this year.
I have been using Meguire's Gold Class leather cleaner and conditioner religiously too ... dried out vinyl is not the issue here and I am hardly a heavy weight at 240 lbs so I doubt I am crushing or pinching the sides that much.
Mine did it too... replaced under warranty this past January.
Now im much more careful about putting weight on the edge of the seat.
And I also use Gold Class
I have been using lexol products on all of my cars I have had. One Guy I read even used some hand conditioner that's in the blue round jars on his cars leather
http://www.lexol.com/ (http://www.lexol.com/)
Quote from: panther427 on April 24, 2014, 10:17:28 PM
I have been using lexol products on all of my cars I have had. One Guy I read even used some hand conditioner that's in the blue round jars on his cars leather
http://www.lexol.com/ (http://www.lexol.com/)
I love Lexol! I have 30 year old saddles that look almost as good as new! Never tried it on the car... feel a little dumb
:homer:
Quote from: bpd1151 on April 24, 2014, 08:11:36 PM
Larry....... I was totally unaware of your position in the interior industry, and for as many years as you report! :bowdown:
Very cool! :ok:
IDK if you could offer any opinion on the following, however, having seen other owner's complaints (about the cracking "leather") just as the OP reports here..... I have been religious about routinely applying a leather conditioning product.
My choice thus far has been Meguiar's Leather Conditioner.
It has held up pretty well thus far, and it's advertised to replenish the moisture content molecularly within the "leather" itself, that ultimately not only protects the material, but also allows it remain moist/pliable/flexible, and thus in turn...... preventing the cracking issue so many others have experienced.
Based on my usage alone, and knowing I haven't had any issues to date, what are your thoughts on these types of products?
Hey Mike I have been retired for long enough that some of my firmly held beliefs may now be turned upside down and not be worth diddly but since you are asking, here is what I used to preach. Look at the label on your product and if you see any kind of oil as an ingredient, get suspicious. The OP's crack is in vinyl not leather. So is leather conditioner good for vinyl, and vice-versa? Hard to believe one product is good for both. Vinyls are a petroleum product. As they age they give up there oils (plasticizers) and get more brittle. The old sales pitch of adding oils and emollients to replenish or slow down aging was I felt pretty reliably BS. My rule was that adding any oil...petroleum based, body oil, sun tan oil, mink oil, would speed plasticizer migration not slow it. Hence the finding that shining up the vinyl with ArmorAll ages not rejuvenates. On the other hand I do LOVE 303 which acts like sun glasses for your vinyl.
I installed a leather kit on my brother's new car. He loved that car and he put some Canadian leather preservative on it every week. Inside of one year the feel of the upholstery was on a par with aging 6 or 7 year old interior. I got Katzkin to give him a reduced price on a replacement and redid his car. His instructions per Katzkin for clean & maintenance was to damp wipe or sparingly use mild soap & water then buff dry. No emollients.
Maybe chemists have come up with some new great miracle product but until I know better I'm a doubting Thomas and I consider them snake oil.
My wife knows me well and she considers me a low credibility source ....so there you go. LOL
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Irregardless of the ravages of time... 303 is my go to interior surface product... and for just the two reasons you site Larry... water-based... and SPF80 UV protection!
I would say Larry, although retired, would be spot on! Excellent information.
Thanks Larry, you confirm what I've always thought...Aerospace 303 (discovered by wife) sold me after the first time I used it, because it does such an awesome job, and leaves the area used looking natural not shiney as all get out. Also I'm surprised how many people aren't aware that the only leather is the seating surfaces, I know it's been that way since I got my F-150 back in 97 and was that way long before that time. I've also thought if I had my seats redo, I would go with Katskin since they seem to make a quality product. In the F-150 I used a Roush kit for front and rear (I got it for $300.00-which was crazy cheap for full leather front and rear) but even that leather showed wear after a year on the driver's seat, on the left bottom panel from me sliding out of the truck because I'm short. Anyway, I appreciate your advice! Thanks!
Quote from: mjhpadi on April 25, 2014, 01:21:43 PM
Thanks Larry, you confirm what I've always thought...Aerospace 303 (discovered by wife) sold me after the first time I used it, because it does such an awesome job, and leaves the area used looking natural not shiney as all get out. Also I'm surprised how many people aren't aware that the only leather is the seating surfaces, I know it's been that way since I got my F-150 back in 97 and was that way long before that time. I've also thought if I had my seats redo, I would go with Katskin since they seem to make a quality product. In the F-150 I used a Roush kit for front and rear (I got it for $300.00-which was crazy cheap for full leather front and rear) but even that leather showed wear after a year on the driver's seat, on the left bottom panel from me sliding out of the truck because I'm short. Anyway, I appreciate your advice! Thanks!
Mark you might be interested to know that kits from Katzkin can be ordered in 3 levels (at least they used to be). The most common and popular and I'm sure the usual default is the standard mix of leather on the body contact seating areas and matching vinyl trim for perimeter and backs/sides. For a really pretty reasonable up charge you could have your kit made up using 100% leather. That's really great where the seat design has a flex cracking issue (most cars do). The leather holds up better to the repeated pinch bends than vinyl. The cheapest and probably the least popular choice is an all vinyl upholstery. Weird how they all look the same. It's really hard to tell the difference just by feel.
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Thanks, I didn't know that Katzkin had that many offerings. I know I changed the leather in my F-150, I did it by myself, and I kinda wish I would have had someone with more knowledge help, I think they could have done something with the padding, since the truck had over 100K miles, but I really didn't know much about the correct installation. Put locally the upholstery guy wanted $500.00 just to install the leathers, which I thought was a bit high since I was providing the leather. Anyway, if I would do the SHO I would get it done professionally by someone who knows what the heck they are doing!
that what's great about internet forum's. you get a lot of junk or misleading info, but also valuable info from experts even though they are aged!!!!!!!!
larry, just hopped on the net & got me some 303 on the way. i always thought seats where all leather. i have not noticed anything in that area of seats but now will doing the leather & vinyl portions of seats using different products.
thanks again
mikev
Mike... on the 303... read the directions... you gotta rub it off too
Words of wisdom from the tomb, LOL
just thought about the console, is it vinyl or leather. mine looks fine but!!!
Quote from: mval on April 25, 2014, 04:59:02 PM
that what's great about internet forum's. you get a lot of junk or misleading info, but also valuable info from experts even though they are aged!!!!!!!!
larry, just hopped on the net & got me some 303 on the way. i always thought seats where all leather. i have not noticed anything in that area of seats but now will doing the leather & vinyl portions of seats using different products.
thanks again
mikev
Just make sure you are not putting something oily on the vinyl. Be suspicious. Much safer to not put anything on at all!!! When you park outdoors in the summer try to vent somehow or find shade to keep inside heat to reasonable temps. Use 303 to minimize sun damage. If good quality material was used, you should not have to do much more than that. Better to omit than to add a harmful product. Remember they always say their product is good.
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Only thing I've put on my seats are the nozzle of the vaccum and a damp microfiber. Other thing is I'd have no idea what to use on the suede of my seats that wouldn't harm it.
I worry about the alcantra inserts in mine (the recycled plastic pop bottles) myself... but if I got full leather seats I had to have sueded steering wheel and shift handle.... i decided my hands would ruin those pretty quick
What do you think of periodically steam cleaning the seats, Larry, regardless of material involved? Would that help keep the suppleness intact?
When I look on parts list it appears you can buy a new seat cushion for couple hundred bucks but would it match? I have same crack its for sure from the sharp edge and the getting in and out. Im thinking of placing felt or some sort of black fabric to the edge of the plastic.
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
Quote from: BiGMaC on April 25, 2014, 10:31:59 PM
I worry about the alcantra inserts in mine (the recycled plastic pop bottles) myself... but if I got full leather seats I had to have sueded steering wheel and shift handle.... i decided my hands would ruin those pretty quick
I don't know what would be good for that material. On the other hand it's probably indestructible. You really don't have to do so much. Less is really more. A soft cloth dampened with a mild soap and water once in a while if needed. Spot clean as needed for stains.
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Quote from: SHOdded on April 25, 2014, 11:10:45 PM
What do you think of periodically steam cleaning the seats, Larry, regardless of material involved? Would that help keep the suppleness intact?
Do you have some really heavy dirt/soil to remove? If not then it might be a little overkill. If it's an effort to prolong the lifespan....IDK. Sun is a killer. Heat buildup in the parked car is a killer. Body oil from body contact (arm on the armrest, oily hair on the headrest, etc.) should be periodically removed with soft cloth dampened with mild soap and water. Watch out for additives/treatments, they can hurt you. No magic pro active treatment that I know of so best not to shoot oneself in the foot chasing one. The mfg. didn't give us materials designed to last for 20 years in normal use and you probably are not going to find something in a $15 dollar bottle that's going to magically extend that lifespan. My opinion only. Based solely on observations of what I have seen around me over the years. Probably find plenty who disagree.
Kinda like if you wanted to live to be a hundred years old. Taking vitamins......probably not going to help much. Over the long haul if you don't eat junk and you don't start smoking ....just might give yourself the most years possible.
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Quote from: Larrylu on April 26, 2014, 12:28:34 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on April 25, 2014, 11:10:45 PM
What do you think of periodically steam cleaning the seats, Larry, regardless of material involved? Would that help keep the suppleness intact?
Do you have some really heavy dirt/soil to remove? If not then it might be a little overkill. If it's an effort to prolong the lifespan....IDK. Sun is a killer. Heat buildup in the parked car is a killer. Body oil from body contact (arm on the armrest, oily hair on the headrest, etc.) should be periodically removed with soft cloth dampened with mild soap and water. Watch out for additives/treatments, they can hurt you. No magic pro active treatment that I know of so best not to shoot oneself in the foot chasing one. The mfg. didn't give us materials designed to last for 20 years in normal use and you probably are not going to find something in a $15 dollar bottle that's going to magically extend that lifespan. My opinion only. Based solely on observations of what I have seen around me over the years. Probably find plenty who disagree.
Kinda like if you wanted to live to be a hundred years old. Taking vitamins......probably not going to help much. Over the long haul if you don't eat junk and you don't start smoking ....just might give yourself the most years possible.
My detail guy is after me to do the CarPro interior protection... kinda like CQuart finest for dash, seats, carpet, etc... I worry most about the inserts as I said.... Phx summer is inside car >250
o every day when it's out for more than 45-50 minutes mid-day..vaporizes all the liquids out of the leather/plastic/etc.... he thinks sealing it will prolong the life.... dunno :dunno:
But ... but ... it's a DRY heat :D No possibility of solar-active ventilation, Tom? They used to sell these devices you stick between the top of the window and frame to ventilate the interior.
Quote from: SHOdded on April 26, 2014, 07:06:10 AM
But ... but ... it's a DRY heat :D No possibility of solar-active ventilation, Tom? They used to sell these devices you stick between the top of the window and frame to ventilate the interior.
Never saw that. Sounds interesting. How about popping the sunroof?
2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Victsing-Solar-Cooler-Ventilation-System/dp/B00DNXJYOY (http://www.amazon.com/Victsing-Solar-Cooler-Ventilation-System/dp/B00DNXJYOY) or this http://www.dx.com/p/solar-powered-window-mount-air-vent-cooling-fans-for-vehicles-14722 (http://www.dx.com/p/solar-powered-window-mount-air-vent-cooling-fans-for-vehicles-14722)
Don't know how well it would work with tinted windows though. Ideally, the car's interior venting system could be powered by aux solar power to provide filtered I/O, but have not see this yet. Everyone assumes car to be under cover all the time.
Thanks guys... I worry about vandalism/theft.... but maybe a fan is the idea
I'm a computer nerd... so I found this at NewEgg. This is more expensive, but 10 year warranty, has 2 fans... and puts the solar panel outside, and has a website with testing, etc..... still I'm baking it all at 130-140o
What do you think?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0FB-00N8-00001 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0FB-00N8-00001)
I've always felt that the sun did more damage than rain/snow to a vehicle...I've used a sunshade in the windshield and keep the rear sunshade up every time I park the SHO...I don't know if it helps, but I don't think it hurts to keep the direct sun from beating in the car all day. I see that Weathertech makes a car cover, and lately I've been given serious consideration to a cover...I think that would also help keep both interior and exterior protected from sun damage.
Quote from: BiGMaC on April 26, 2014, 10:24:49 AM
Thanks guys... I worry about vandalism/theft.... but maybe a fan is the idea
I'm a computer nerd... so I found this at NewEgg. This is more expensive, but 10 year warranty, has 2 fans... and puts the solar panel outside, and has a website with testing, etc..... still I'm baking it all at 130-140o
What do you think?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0FB-00N8-00001 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0FB-00N8-00001)
Good find, Tom. But yeah, coz of security concerns, I was going for an integrated solar solution, avoids all the hassles with a DD.
Just took a look at that, good find Tom! I will have to show to the wife, maybe she would want one to0 for her cars...since while she's at work, it's in the hot sun all day during the summer months...not much shade around her prison.
I have the same issue with my 11 at only 28k miles. I'm not a heavyweight at 160-170 lbs. I noticed that the vinyl there is a bit brittle. That's surprising at only a couple years old.
The dealer didn't do anything under my ESP warranty. When it bugs me enough, I think I'll look at other options like the full leather cover mentioned above.
I found this post and saw I have the same problem. . And I only have 16,000 mi. I found this company that has a shop real close to me in Wixom.MI that I will maybe use to repair that section with real leather or something..http://www.classicsofttrim.com (http://www.classicsofttrim.com)