Firstly, this is a very simple job. Definitely don't feel intimidated by it. If I had to rate it on a difficulty index, I'd place it at a 3 or 4.
I'll start off by saying there's plenty of info to reference WHICH plugs you might select to run in your engine. I won't touch on that here. Additionally, there's a ton of info out there on HOW to gap your plugs, for the appropriate application. Chances are, you'll be running an iridium plug. So, I'll just offer a couple of tips - use a feeler gauge, or other less evasive means to gauge, and be very careful not to damage the electrode, as it is very delicate.
Gather a few tools. Here is what I used:
-Basic mechanics tools set should do it, namely, a 3/8" and a 1/4" drive ratchet, various sized extensions for both, a plug socket, a deep or shallow 10mm and a deep or shallow 8mm socket.
-Pair of needle nosed pliers (likely necessary, but optional)
-Torque wrench (preferred, but optional)
-Dielectric grease (optional)
-Anti-sieze (optional)
To begin, situate the car, pop the hood, and remove the engine cover. Do so by pulling straight up. Comes off in a snap.
Next, you'll see the uncovered engine. There is a foam cap nestled over the fuel pump, below the intake manifold and above the front bank valve cover. You can remove it by pulling it straight upward. It is not fastened in any way. Only wedged.
(https://i.imgur.com/6yQ4Wqch.jpg)
I started off with the hardest cylinders, which are those against the firewall.
There's is little workspace to reach them, especially with the tower brace which runs along below the cowl. Getting these out of the way first will make the three on the front bank that much more of a breeze.
To begin, you'll have to displace the EVAP/purge apparatus, which is plumbed into the valve cover. This is on the passenger side cylinder (forgive me, as I am not sure how the cylinders are numbered). It is fastened to the valve. cover with three 8mm bolts. They are circled in red. The front two come easy. For the rear, it is buried under the wire harness. You will have to push the harness aside, in order to get to this one. It may be a little stubborn, as the harness is anchored on this valve cover vent apparatus.
(https://i.imgur.com/iYwEdmah.jpg)
Once the bolts are out, you can dislodge the apparatus by again, pulling it upward. It is plumbed into the cover with two short pipes which are gromitted into the valve cover. The pipes pop right out.
Once it is dislodged from the VC, rotate the apparatus in any direction, which will enable you to reach the coil pack.
Here is what it looks like bolts removed, rotated, and with a socket and wrench on the 8mm coil pack bolt.
(https://i.imgur.com/2VjvIJ9h.jpg)
Once you've removed the coil pack bolt, you can unplug the ignition wire. It is a simple connector. Pull the red keeper tab downward, press the retainer tab in, and pull it out of the coil pack connector.
Once this is done, the coil pack/boot assembly is ready to remove. Just pull it out.
Now, you're ready to begin removing the spark plug for this cylinder. Here is how I did it - with limited work space, as opposed to trying to shimmy the extension and socket together into the head, I simply dropped the spark plug socket down into the head first, then came down into the head with the 3/8" extention, and plugged it into the socket inside the tube. From here, once you're grabbing the hex on the plug with the socket, attach the wrench, and remove the plug.
Your new pre-gapped plugs should be ready to go. It is up to your disgression to use dielectric grease or anti-sieze. Install the new plug. Because of space limitations, again, I dropped the plug/socket down into the head, then followed up with the extension. If you want to do it right, use a torque wrench, and tighten to spec. You don't HAVE to have a torque wrench. If you do it by hand, do not He-man the plug into the head. It doesn't require much torque.
**NOTE
If you're like me, the plug socket will NOT leg go of the plug. There is a little rubber grommet in the plug which holds the plug firmly. If you're using grease, this probably won't be a problem for you. And if you're good, you can get it out with just using the extension. However, I use a pair of needle noise pliers to persuade them out (grab and pull) . That's why the pliers are listed as optional to the tools list.
Moving along, once the new plug is in, the EVAP apparatus just drops right back into the grommets. Press down firmly, to ensure the seal is restored. Replace the three bolts, and fasten securely. Move along to the the next cylinder.
This one is easy, and other than limited space, doesn't have any obstacles. Just do with this one as you did with the previous. Remove and replace.
The next cylinder in the rear bank is also easy. However, you have an obstacle again. This time, it is the intake piping which snakes over the engine and drops in front of the firewall. You don't need to remove it, similarly to the EVAP device, just need to displace it a little.
(https://i.imgur.com/CULba91h.jpg)
Sorry for the poor image. Looking at it, I didn't get one of the nuts you'll need to remove all of the way in-frame. There is one nut, which I believe is the only 10mm, which anchors the pipe to the VC. Remove it.
Secondly, you'll need to loosen the worm clamp which clamps the rigid pipe in the photo, to the rubber portion below.
Loosen it enough to completely dislodge and pull out the rigid pipe. It just pulls right out.
Now that that is done, it should give you enough leverage to shimmy and hold the pipe in whichever direction needed to get to the coil pack and bolt. Like the two cylinders before this one, remove bolt, pull the coil, replace the plug.
Here it is, with the coil removed.
(https://i.imgur.com/fcKzW0Uh.jpg)
And again...
(https://i.imgur.com/2aOLRLSh.jpg)
At this point, once the new plug is in, and the coil pack is reattached, you can go ahead and put the intake piping back together, tighten the worm clamp firmly, and re-anchor it to the VC with the 10mm nut.
The hard part is done. In fact, I think if you've got the rear bank knocked out, you'll already know how to take care of the front bank from here. There are no real obstacles for the front cylinders. The ONLY thing you'll have to work around is a few wire bundles, which have plenty of leverage to be nudged and held out of the way, so you can work.
Here is the front bank, with the bolts you'll need to remove.
(https://i.imgur.com/JbyvCtrh.jpg)
Once the fronts are replaced, you're finished. Just make a once over, to make certain your tools are picked up. Make sure all of your ignition wires are terminated back onto the coil packs, and with the red retainers clasped in, that the intake is good, your EVAP device is good, and everything is fastened and torqued securely. Replace the foam cap onto the pump. There is designation on the foam cap, which shows you how it should be oriented (up arrow). Press it down and wedge it in. Replace your engine cover by snapping it back on to the ball fasteners. And that's it. If you were successful, she will fire right up and run like a champ. Enjoy the fruit of your labor!
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Very concise and helpful information .....
Nice write up and thanks for your effort..
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Very detailed writeup, great read, and sure to get more folks to take ownership of the process :thumb:
Great write up! This exactly what I did the 1st I had done, however I have done a few times since and I was able to work around breather and did not have to remove it. Thanks again for your efforts as this will be highly useful to the forum.
Nice job! Thanks!
Super write-up... Great work iHeart! Thanks
I guess mine is totally different. I didnt remove anything, just the 6 bolts, the 6 coils, and 6 plugs. I didnt unbolt the EVAP, or charge pipe, just worked around it.
Im used to working on motorcycles though, so I thought it felt like tons of room. lol
Quote from: Kolk1 on February 01, 2014, 08:54:29 PM
I guess mine is totally different. I didnt remove anything, just the 6 bolts, the 6 coils, and 6 plugs. I didnt unbolt the EVAP, or charge pipe, just worked around it.
Im used to working on motorcycles though, so I thought it felt like tons of room. lol
Good info! I'm an old scooter guy myself (Aspencade, the old 10:1 compression... touring, not a rocket)
When I started to dig in, I figured I'd just work around the items in the way. I'm sure it is possible to work around the various obstacles. But with the ease of unfastening both the valve cover vent device and the intake piping, I figured why not. It takes perhaps an additional 5 minutes for the vent device and another 4 or 5 minutes for the piping. Displacing them simply makes it easier to remove the coil pack, and gives a little more space with which to work in.
If you guys would like, I can amend the OP, stating displacing both items is optional, and the job can be performed without doing so.
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I'd leave it. If anybody reads down they will see that as an option. I would probably appreciate the extra room myself.
I think your instructions are just fine!
This will be my reference when I undertake my plug replacement next week. Thank you for the time and effort in documenting this procedure for the forum. I have one question. If I go out and pick up a torque wrench (assuming inch pounds), what torque value is called for?
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on February 02, 2014, 12:47:16 AM
When I started to dig in, I figured I'd just work around the items in the way. I'm sure it is possible to work around the various obstacles. But with the ease of unfastening both the valve cover vent device and the intake piping, I figured why not. It takes perhaps an additional 5 minutes for the vent device and another 4 or 5 minutes for the piping. Displacing them simply makes it easier to remove the coil pack, and gives a little more space with which to work in.
If you guys would like, I can amend the OP, stating displacing both items is optional, and the job can be performed without doing so.
Dont get me wrong your write was great. Im just used to working in cramped spaces, so I didnt even notice that stuff could easily be moved out of the way. I work under dash boards for a living, and work on bikes as a hobby. So I didnt feel that cramped for space when I was doing plugs.
First time I did the plugs took me over an hour, I can do them in around 15 minutes now, air ratchet makes the job MUCH EASIER!
Anybody know what torque is called for in tightening the plugs?
I don't know if the EB 3.5's are the same, but on the Edge, the COP bolts are 62 in-lb, and the spark plugs are 133 in-lb. I usually get the plugs in finger tight, then carefully maybe, maybe an 1/8 of a turn afterwards, since the heads are aluminium.
Quote from: SHOdded on February 02, 2014, 07:14:17 PM
I don't know if the EB 3.5's are the same, but on the Edge, the COP bolts are 62 in-lb, and the spark plugs are 133 in-lb. I usually get the plugs in finger tight, then carefully maybe, maybe an 1/8 of a turn afterwards, since the heads are aluminium.
Thanks! Plugs arrive Monday. Now I'm ready
Excellent write-up!
Now for a comment on torque specs.
I don't know if any of my fellow Ecoboosters are previous 4.6/5.4 owners, but if those engines are any indication as to how important it is to properly torque your spark plugs, then I would be very cautious to apply any torque beyond what is specified by Ford. Aluminum heads are both a blessing and a curse. For those of you who have experience with those engines, I know there is a little more to it than just the torque values, but I just want to throw out a friendly word of caution.
If the torque values provided above are accurate for our 3.5 Ecos, then keep in mind that 62 inch lbs. and 133 inch lbs. equates to roughly 5 foot lbs. and 11 foot lbs., respectively. That is barely hand tight. There's no need for gorilla grip when changing plugs.
Quote from: Larrylu on February 02, 2014, 06:33:18 PM
Anybody know what torque is called for in tightening the plugs?
I wasn't aware of Ford's tq spec. at the time, which is why I didn't list any specifics in the OP.
I torqued to 11 ft.lbs, because that's the spec. I've used for years in my previous engines w/ aluminum heads.
At 10 to 12 lbs, your snug enough, without having to worry about stripping out threads, IMO.
If somebody can source the actual specification, I can add it to the OP.
This job too me about 45 minutes, including prepping the plugs. And I was lolly gaging around here and there too. If you really can get in there and do it without displacing the valve cover vent and the piping, I could definitely see it done in 20 or 30 minutes.
I'm the type of guy who'll go out of the way a tad to make the job less stressful. Confined workspace is aggravating for me. I get worked up alot, wrenching on automobiles. Haha! XD
By the way, I'm welcoming of additional, helpful information. If I left something out, or if you've found a way to simplify the process, by all means, share it! It won't offend me any.
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I changed my plugs last night using this thread as reference. Went fairly smoothly with one hiccup. The rubber boot attached to the bottom of the coil was my issue. 4 out of 6 stayed on the plug. The first one being the passenger side by the firewall, aka the most PITA one to get at. A pair of long needle nose pliers are definitely required to get the boot out. After ripping apart the first one with short needle nose pliers, I borrowed a long one from my Dad. I was then able to get a good hold and pull then right out, completely intact. I went to Ford first thing this morning and got a new one, plus 2 extras just in case. Here's a pic. They were only $2.45 each.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/qapapysa.jpg)
Here's a pic of it attached to the bottom of the coil.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/ju2e4ezy.jpg)
Since I have big hands, thus making it extremely hard to work in tight spots, I moved the strut tower brace to gain a little more room. Just remove the 4 nuts and slide it forward out of the way. Or you can take it completely off, but I didn't do that. Here's a pic of the driver side, passenger side the same.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/01/ehapynan.jpg)
Finally, even though I had no issue getting the stock plugs off, I still used anti seize on the new ones.
Once I had everything put back together, I started her up and she purred like a kitten.
Brad
2010 SHO with PP
MyCal LMS Stage 3
Sent from my iPhone
Thank you for this effort... this is my first transverse engine so it was most def useful today!
Quote from: BiGMaC on February 01, 2014, 08:56:47 PM
Quote from: Kolk1 on February 01, 2014, 08:54:29 PM
I guess mine is totally different. I didnt remove anything, just the 6 bolts, the 6 coils, and 6 plugs. I didnt unbolt the EVAP, or charge pipe, just worked around it.
Im used to working on motorcycles though, so I thought it felt like tons of room. lol
Good info! I'm an old scooter guy myself (Aspencade, the old 10:1 compression... touring, not a rocket)
Me too, I had a Gold Wing before they came dressed...had to put on the old Vetter Windjammer fairings, bags, and lowers...even had a custom seat for my first one! Now back to topic...
Well I am attempting this today after work :) Wish me luck! lol
BTW thanks for the How-to!
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on February 01, 2014, 01:09:52 PM
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.msg26872.html#msg26872 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.msg26872.html#msg26872)
Quote from: ElvenSho on October 08, 2014, 04:44:10 PM
Well I am attempting this today after work :) Wish me luck! lol
BTW thanks for the How-to!
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on February 01, 2014, 01:09:52 PMhttp://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.msg26872.html#msg26872
Good luck, pretty simple job.
Rich
Just got it done 15 min ago. Pretty simple job thanks to the how-to. Took me about an hour.
Awesome :thumb: Hope you don't mind, but I edited a couple of posts with a quote of the How-To with links instead. Makes the thread a lot easier to read.
Thanks for the How-To! I used this today when changing my plugs for my UNLEASHED TUNE!
NOTE: Do not have car keys in your pocket while doing this change... Remote start button being pressed when you have one of the plugs out and the car starts without you knowing leads to a lot of rushing to open a car door... hahaha
Thanks!! Did this about 1.5 hours. Had to find the right ratchet extensions then dropped one down the back of the motor. About 30 minutes was wasted on stupid stuff.
Ahoy there, matey, welcome to EBPF! Glad this writeup was of help to ya :thumb:
Thanks so much for tutorial, just did my plugs, took about 2 hours and I am not a mechanic by any means. 1st time ever changing modern day plugs.
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread but I wanted to thank iheartgroceries for the walk through, knowing the bolt sizes saved me some time. I did not need to remove anything but I did unbolt and disconnect the intake piping to get to the rear drivers side plug. Just used a spark plug socket and extension. My plugs were in crazy tight so I had to use my torque wrench to remove them. Having done it now I bet I could do this again in about 30mins. The rear passenger side was accessible by just bending the wires a little. On a final note my SP534's were all gapped at .030 out of the box, even though everywhere on the net says .035.
Here is a pic of the first 2 plugs I removed next to a new plug for comparison. This is on my Explorer after about 36k, and a couple runs at the drag strip last year. I'm thinking we might have just a little more space to work with on the back plugs in the explorer than the guys with the sho. Oh I got the plugs and the little gap device from oreileys for $27 after tax. Can't believe I paid $100 for plugs from LMS and another $100 for install from the dealership last year (just wanted it done). Anyone debating doing this them selves, I say go for it, probably one of the simplest things to do on these vehicles
What was the gapping on the old plugs, Airborne? They don't look bad at all.
They were varied from .033-.035. These particular ones really weren't that bad, but I was surprised how far the gaps opened up in that time frame. I am however new to checking the gaps on plugs (and I'm no expert) and I didn't realize they can open up that far in such low miles
this is the thread ive been looking for . Going to be doing this on my 13 mks eb in about a month .
I just took my car into Dobbs and asked them to change my spark plugs and they said 'there will be a gasket involved' and that 'they have to remove the intake manifold to change spark plugs'
Sounds like rubbish to me
Thoughts?
Quote from: paokara777 on March 18, 2017, 04:44:50 PM
I just took my car into Dobbs and asked them to change my spark plugs and they said 'there will be a gasket involved' and that 'they have to remove the intake manifold to change spark plugs'
Sounds like rubbish to me
Thoughts?
COMPLETE CRAP!!!! Totally and utterly complete BS...... ALLDATA might suggest removing the intake manifold so you have more room for the rear.. and there is an online tutorial for the 3.5 NA engine where the guy removes the intake manifold... but I would hate to say the stealership is using youtube for repairs/maintenance... lol..
I did it with a 3/4 socket wrench, extension, sparkplug socket, 10mm (I think) socket for the bolts holding on the coil packs, long needle nose (to get the spark plug boot), and dielectric grease....
Tell that dealer to go pound sand....
Could he be getting confused with the 3.5L duratec NA engine?
Quote from: paokara777 on March 18, 2017, 05:02:27 PM
Could he be getting confused with the 3.5L duratec NA engine?
Did he ask for your vin?
he was looking at the car lol.
Having said that maybe he didnt notice it was a SHO?
THey are hard to pick out at first glance.
You definitely do not need to remove the intake manifold in the ecoboost like you have to in the regular 3.5 taurus / 3.7 mks. The spark plugs take about an hour to do in these cars. Hardest part is dealing with boots that get stuck.
Quote from: pmezo33 on March 18, 2017, 06:45:19 PM
You definitely do not need to remove the intake manifold in the ecoboost like you have to in the regular 3.5 taurus / 3.7 mks. The spark plugs take about an hour to do in these cars. Hardest part is dealing with boots that get stuck.
Yeah.. he replaced them and didnt need to remove anything except the cover. He must not have known it was a SHO
Also he started asking me all these questions about the car, sort of questions he would have asked if he realised it was a SHO to begin with so that explains that
The old spark plugs are pretty good shape no fouling up, no oil deposits or carbon etc.
I will put photos up tomorrow