Not sure this the best way to do this, so mods work your magic if you can.
This is more a amendment to 4dr's how to.
I found a few critical things not outlined in 4dr's post
1 orientation of front struts mounting plate. I have no picture's detailing this nor does 4dr. But the megan coil overs top mount plate has half circle cut out of the mounting plate. That cut out must point inward toward engine, if install pointing away coil over will not be center in tower and top nut will rub tower.
2. rear coil upper mount, 4dr says remove upper rubber bushing from factory washer, do not do this. I did and the wash they provided pull thru twice with in a few miles. And is not necessary, however you will notice the nut that is caged in this assembly, simply pry off cage and discard nut.
3. It mentioned in 4dr thread, you will need to enlarge stabilizer bar end link hole. To 14mm most drill sets only go to 1/2 or 13mm so you will need to pick this up and you want one that has a reduce shank as most drill chuck are only 1/2"
Other these few items its is straight forward job and should only take about 3hrs, now for you guys 2013 or newer should about half that you get to skip removing entire steering knuckle.
Original post:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=675 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=675)
May be an easier install on the 2013-14 but they First need to get it made and SOLD to us ..
Update : 2013/14 platform in prototype stage with Megan ..... see : www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=2013.0 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=2013.0)
You would think they'd include the modifications noted throughout this "How-To" into the '10-'12 years as well, so the install can be as easy as expected it's going to be for the 13+ crowd.
It would likely increase sales even further if they do so and eliminate the hoops needed to be jumped through as of current.
:popcorn:
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Can I get clarification on what I need for the rear kit on a 2011 install? The literature says I need an M14 70mm nut ... do they mean bolt instead? Never heard of a 70mm nut. Also can you not just reuse factory nut / bolt combo to reattach the shock to the rear control arm? What changes from the Megan shock to the factory shock that necessitates a nut/bolt change?
Quote from: Frozen Taurus on August 10, 2015, 01:21:19 PM
Can I get clarification on what I need for the rear kit on a 2011 install? The literature says I need an M14 70mm nut ... do they mean bolt instead? Never heard of a 70mm nut. Also can you not just reuse factory nut / bolt combo to reattach the shock to the rear control arm? What changes from the Megan shock to the factory shock that necessitates a nut/bolt change?
Yes you need the "bolt"...factory one has a little locking flare on it that doesn't fit the new setup.
Rich
Be prepared to drill out the front holes where the sway bar end links mount also...they don't fit
Rich
Alright has anyone install the front coil overs with the stock sway bar links? The nut that is on them is too long, to where the nylon "lock" part of it doesn't get to the threads. Comparing the Megans to the stock strut assembly you can see that on the Megans, it has a thick spacer welded onto the bracket, whereas the stocks are just the bracket. Should I just order some correct size grade 8 self locking (nylon locking) nuts?
Yeah just get a different bolt/nut, you'll be fine.
Isn't the problem in that the hole on the coilovers isn't big enough to allow the sway bar end link to fit through?
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That was problem one. I drilled out the hole to 9/16 so that it would accept the end link, but problem two is that the nut is too long to where even when it is fully seated and tightened to the torque spec the nylon lock part of the nut is not on any of the threads
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Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 18, 2015, 10:35:19 PM
That was problem one. I drilled out the hole to 9/16 so that it would accept the end link, but problem two is that the nut is too long to where even when it is fully seated and tightened to the torque spec the nylon lock part of the nut is not on any of the threads
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I'm using the aftermarket end links from PowerGrid inc....and they are barely catching the lock part...barely, but still good after about 8k miles.
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Not to seem dumb, but what would be the general use for them over the stock ones?
Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 22, 2015, 02:03:40 PM
Not to seem dumb, but what would be the general use for them over the stock ones?
With the adjustable end links you can get the car corner balanced.
http://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w204/432330-reason-use-adjustable-sway-bar-end-links.html
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Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 22, 2015, 02:03:40 PM
Not to seem dumb, but what would be the general use for them over the stock ones?
Only dumb question out there...the one you don't ask...better to know than not.
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Thanks! Looks like that is one upgrade I don't need!
Quote from: nickstewartroc on September 22, 2015, 02:13:17 PM
Thanks! Looks like that is one upgrade I don't need!
I bought them with the thought/impression that they would fit in the smaller holes on the coilovers...oops
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Thank you for the addition information on this install. I did want to confirm a couple of things before I proceed with the install.
In regards to your 2nd note: Did you just leave the factory washers on the rubber bushings and reuse those with the new Megan shock? Did you reuse the stock nut as well for the top of the shock?
I understand that the front sway bar end link hole on the coil-over needs to be made larger to 14mm to accommodate the stock sway bar end link bolt. Others have stated that the stock nut for the sway bar end links are too long and don't fully engage on the stock bolts once mounted to the coil over. Is this as simple as just getting a smaller nut that will fit on the stock end link bolt?
Were there any issues reusing the stock sway bar end link nut in the rears? In summary to complete this install I will just need:
1. 14mm drill bit to make end link holes on front coil-over larger
2. Discard Megan hardware for rear shocks and reuse factory hardware (rubber bushings, washers and nut).
3. Purchase 2 smaller sized nuts to fit on the stock M14 x70mm sway bar end link bolts in the front.
The SHO is my only car so I would hate to get everything taken apart and not have everything I need with no way to get to the parts store. Thanks in advance for the help.
Also does anyone have torque specs for the installation? Thanks.
-Jeremy
Quote from: crash712us on January 22, 2014, 06:08:23 PM
Not sure this the best way to do this, so mods work your magic if you can.
This is more a amendment to 4dr's how to.
I found a few critical things not outlined in 4dr's post
1 orientation of front struts mounting plate. I have no picture's detailing this nor does 4dr. But the megan coil overs top mount plate has half circle cut out of the mounting plate. That cut out must point inward toward engine, if install pointing away coil over will not be center in tower and top nut will rub tower.
2. rear coil upper mount, 4dr says remove upper rubber bushing from factory washer, do not do this. I did and the wash they provided pull thru twice with in a few miles. And is not necessary, however you will notice the nut that is caged in this assembly, simply pry off cage and discard nut.
3. It mentioned in 4dr thread, you will need to enlarge stabilizer bar end link hole. To 14mm most drill sets only go to 1/2 or 13mm so you will need to pick this up and you want one that has a reduce shank as most drill chuck are only 1/2"
Other these few items its is straight forward job and should only take about 3hrs, now for you guys 2013 or newer should about half that you get to skip removing entire steering knuckle.
Original post:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=675 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=675)
Hey all will grade 8.8 bolts be sufficient for this?