Just bought a new 2014 PP Dark Side SHO, coming from the V8 world, and have had some difficulty finding a straight answer regarding the gains of the LMS tunes.
What sort of dyno numbers, stock v. tuned, are being had with just the stage IV tune?
Some of my old cars...
Blue 2004 GTO with forged L92 + nitrous:
416 CI L92 GTO on 200 shot N20 goes 10.16! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSkYyw4_pGk#)
2003 Cobra with 2.2 KB on Nuerburgring.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BlJNK7Oko5E/UCxbogzSqII/AAAAAAAAAd0/Slc3z_Q6vTs/w1024-h682-no/cobra+nurburgring+911.jpg)
I gained 45 WHP with Livernois Stage 4+. That is their most aggressive tune for 2010-2012 at the moment. The curve on bottom is stock, the one on top is Stage 4+. The middle is Stage 4.
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t440/DJE624/08-05-2013105000PM_zps2d3c472a.jpg)
That is some really good power under the curve for the 4+.
What sort of longevity issues are there with the 4+?
Quote from: Fast SHO on November 19, 2013, 11:16:29 AM
That is some really good power under the curve for the 4+.
What sort of longevity issues are there with the 4+?
Not any as far as I am aware of...I've been running the 4+ in my car for almost 2 1/2 years on a daily basis and have not had an issues because of the tune.
Welcome, congratulations, and post some pics of your new acquisition :)
There couple of guys that have nearly 100k on there cars and have been pushing them to the max since new with LMS tunes and hundred of 1/4mi pass with zero failures.
you guys are just trying to get me to void my powertrain warranty... :blowup:
Quote from: BiGMaC on November 19, 2013, 10:44:41 PM
you guys are just trying to get me to void my powertrain warranty... :blowup:
The sooner you do it, the less you'll kick yourself later.
92k here, 50k w LMS 4+ tune 70+ dragstrip runs
Impressive night Hawk... Do you have downpipes... If so TIAL or BOV?
I recently installed my tune on my 2012 MKS. Love it. No problems so far(I've got 8k miles). I've also had a 2011 SHO in the past that had stage 4, I bet the crap out of that car and never had a issue.
I assume this tuner is what I would need and then contact LMS to have it unlocked and a new tune sent to me?
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1488.0 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1488.0)
That's the model.
I wonder how the car will handle the stage IV+ and blasting down the autobahn consistently at 120mph?
:)
I'm sure it will feel right at home. If you are in Germany, I'm hoping LMS can unlock and tune remotely. I know they will email you a link to your tunes but never heard if they need hands on to clear the old vehicle. Did you check with them?
I'm in the US right now and can mail them the tuner.
Quote from: BiGMaC on November 19, 2013, 10:44:41 PM
you guys are just trying to get me to void my powertrain warranty... :blowup:
Adding a Tune DOES NOT AUTOMATICALLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!!!!!!!!! If you have a failure the dealer needs to show that the TUNE caused and/or contributed to it. Read the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act - link provided below. NOW you may have to fight a dealer/manufacturer decision BUT a tune does not void your warranty.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act)
I agree with the spirit... and everything you point out. They must prove the mod "contributed" to the failure. Below is a link to a Ford TSB on the official process they use to do this and voiding warranty, at least with F150 and mustangs through 2012 models. Any new info or case law would be appreciated. I imagine that if it gets beyond your local dealer it will be an uphill battle. Not trying to be negative, I really want a tune.
http://thehorsepowerjunkies.com/blogpdf/ford_tuning_tsb.pdf (http://thehorsepowerjunkies.com/blogpdf/ford_tuning_tsb.pdf)
Quote from: Fast SHO on November 20, 2013, 06:00:32 AM
I'm in the US right now and can mail them the tuner.
Cool.
Quote from: vernonator on November 20, 2013, 09:28:06 AM
Quote from: BiGMaC on November 19, 2013, 10:44:41 PM
you guys are just trying to get me to void my powertrain warranty... :blowup:
Adding a Tune DOES NOT AUTOMATICALLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!!!!!!!!! If you have a failure the dealer needs to show that the TUNE caused and/or contributed to it. Read the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act - link provided below. NOW you may have to fight a dealer/manufacturer decision BUT a tune does not void your warranty.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act)
That has been said over and over on every board I have been on in the past 6 years. However, when your vehicle is in pieces and Ford says "NO" please explain how one is supposed to fight them... How many years and how much money are you willing to pay to prove you are right??? Ford has spelled it out very completely and simply in several of their bulletins to dealers on what is considered things that void the warranty. Aftermarket tunes is one of those items.
This is not just my opinion... it has happened to me... $8,400... (Ford Re-MFG long block plus installation at Ford dlr) In summary: "IF YOU PLAY... BE READY TO PAY..."
My F-150 was tuned, and had long tubes, exhaust, and intake. The O2 sensors were not tucked behind the heat shield, and the headers burned them out. Ford WARRANTIED both sides, but only one time each. I had to pay for the third one. The tech told me he adjusted the heat shield the third time, and it didn't happen again. So it all depends on the dealer, your relationship with the dealer, and what is broke. It was clear the aftermarket headers caused the O2's to burn out, yet they took care of them, but there was a limit to there generosity. I even took the truck in when there was hesitation pulling away from a stop. I slightly bent the drive shaft doing a little off roading, they warrantied that as well.
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Although we all should try to fight at first...
I agree, if you take the chance, you have to be ready to possibly pay the price.
Risk vs reward..
And let's all plan on no issues...
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Another good idea is to take the time to find a dealer you like and build a relationship. If you give them business via service etc. they should want to work with you. The "smarter" dealers like repeat customers and people referring business back to them. JMO. Good luck everyone.
Quote from: BiGMaC on November 19, 2013, 10:59:26 PM
Impressive night Hawk... Do you have downpipes... If so TIAL or BOV?
No downpipes yet, I'll be doing the LMS catted dos in the spring with tune upgrade.
This was my selling dealer... Unfortunately, my first experience with them, and since I haven't had any real other issues with my Flex in 67K, I had no relationship... Still, when there are engine issues, Ford gets involved. Dealer can handle little things... if Ford doesn't get involved.
When I purchased the vehicle... there was a bubble in the paint at the fender point above the pass side headlight. Wanted it touched up... Ford got involved via pictures etc... BFD... and they wanted to re-paint fender and blend into hood... I cut it off with a razor blade and touched it up... Ford and other MFG's are now BIG BROTHER...
Just wait till MFG, GOVT. and Insurance Co.s monitor all our driving... My guess... less than 10 years away. Some of it is already happening...
EB you are right, and it is started. My auto ins co is State Farm... we stayed because we've used the agent for about 25 years and we have a relationship that helps. When I picked up my SHO in Sept I called to put it on and as the secretary was trying to get me discounts she asked if I had Sync/MFT... I told her yes, they gave me a discount for it. BUT....
I got an email from State Farm demanding that I run a vehicle health report about 3 days later. I did run it because they would take away the discount if I didn't. I was also advised that my ins premium "might change" if my mileage was more or less than the 12K/yr estimate I gave them. With nav, phone, GPS, cell triangulation, and the info gathering that goes into the black box scary potential exists.
Clearly State Farm has access to the vehicle health report and who knows what else in the on-board computer. I have complained formally to Ford... like it would do any good. As I said in another post, "Yes Virginia, there is a big brother." :Owned:
Quote from: Night Hawk on November 20, 2013, 07:27:29 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on November 19, 2013, 10:59:26 PM
Impressive night Hawk... Do you have downpipes... If so TIAL or BOV?
No downpipes yet, I'll be doing the LMS catted dos in the spring with tune upgrade.
Cool, Thanks!
The dealers really don't care what you do to your car, but in order cover it under warranty the have to get Ford to approve it. So if you come in with a miss and they find out you have bad plug, coil pack or injector. Ford will warranty no question asked, however if your miss is melted hole in the piston, Ford will ask questions and possibly send someone to investigate the came.
All car have hereditary problems and I am sure Ford is very much aware of what failures normally arise in all there cars. Another words your not the 1st to have this problem, but if by chance you are the fella dragging his trans behind him. Ford will investigate. I work for Ford and warranties are a huge expense, and I know at my plant where the mustang and fusion are built they review every single warranty claim.
Quote from: Fast SHO on November 19, 2013, 11:33:50 PM
I wonder how the car will handle the stage IV+ and blasting down the autobahn consistently at 120mph?
:)
It's not the Autobahn but in Sept coming back from LMS (FOR TUNING MY METH) dragging a loaded trailer with my race tires and things up and down Tenn's mountain roads 85mph to 90mph(Posted speed 75/80mph) car ran GREAT. I have 58k mil on my car and been running the base tune (345hp) (stock 297hp) from about 1500 mi no problem at all. METH tune in Sept. for about 2kmi (405hp/417t) love it!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU8rfm6OHbQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU8rfm6OHbQ)
Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on November 20, 2013, 12:03:33 PM
Quote from: vernonator on November 20, 2013, 09:28:06 AM
Quote from: BiGMaC on November 19, 2013, 10:44:41 PM
you guys are just trying to get me to void my powertrain warranty... :blowup:
Adding a Tune DOES NOT AUTOMATICALLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!!!!!!!!! If you have a failure the dealer needs to show that the TUNE caused and/or contributed to it. Read the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act - link provided below. NOW you may have to fight a dealer/manufacturer decision BUT a tune does not void your warranty.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act)
That has been said over and over on every board I have been on in the past 6 years. However, when your vehicle is in pieces and Ford says "NO" please explain how one is supposed to fight them... How many years and how much money are you willing to pay to prove you are right??? Ford has spelled it out very completely and simply in several of their bulletins to dealers on what is considered things that void the warranty. Aftermarket tunes is one of those items.
This is not just my opinion... it has happened to me... $8,400... (Ford Re-MFG long block plus installation at Ford dlr) In summary: "IF YOU PLAY... BE READY TO PAY..."
Your issue was admittedly caused by you. It wasn't like you just had a tune on the car and it blew up, correct?
Quote from: crash712us on November 20, 2013, 10:51:43 PM
The dealers really don't care what you do to your car, but in order cover it under warranty the have to get Ford to approve it. So if you come in with a miss and they find out you have bad plug, coil pack or injector. Ford will warranty no question asked, however if your miss is melted hole in the piston, Ford will ask questions and possibly send someone to investigate the came.
All car have hereditary problems and I am sure Ford is very much aware of what failures normally arise in all there cars. Another words your not the 1st to have this problem, but if by chance you are the fella dragging his trans behind him. Ford will investigate. I work for Ford and warranties are a huge expense, and I know at my plant where the mustang and fusion are built they review every single warranty claim.
True, but the Magnuson act stops frivolent voiding of warranty... It's only when a significant issue arises... It likely won't keep me from modding... I'll just accumulate a rainy day fund.
What Ford needs to do is offer performance upgrades (ala SRT) that don't void the warranty. If I had the option to have "approved" mods performed at the dship it would be a no brainer for me. I'd happily pay top dollar to keep my warranty intact. I'd be fine with paying a higher warranty deductible too.
The other option would be for them to form partnerships with "approved" tuners such as Livernois who they apparently work very closely with already. I'm pretty sure Livernois knows the design limits of these cars and does everything they can to make safe reliable upgrades. Ford knows this but they want to have it both ways. They want the collective knowledge the aftermarket provides (hence their participation in SEMA with dollar cars provided) and at the same time being able to screw people out of their warranties.
What Ford should take from this, the billions of dollars spent in the aftermarket is that manufacturers aren't building the cars we want, we are just settling for what we can get. Their processes are broken and outdated. Start offering more options, encourage folks to order cars the way they want them so dealerships can stop having to carry millions of dollars in inventory that Ford has to heavily discount at the end of each model year.(which in turn murders our resale value)
They could have built a SHO that trounced anything south of 100K, and to be fair they come close in many metrics but with every Ford i have owned (Which has been quite a few) I always end up with the feeling that someone decided "it's good enough". If manufacturers built what their customers wanted the aftermarket wouldn't exist.
:clap2:
If they did all that our cars would cost as much as a 335i.
Anyways, what sort of gains are people seeing with downpipes and just a tune?
My car is bone stock right now, I have 4dr's boost actuated cutout and PPE catted downpipes on the way. i have an awd dyno available so i'm going to have them install everything and do the following dyno runs.
Stock
Stock + downpipes
Stock + downpipes + cutout active
For shits and giggles I may throw on the K&N typhoon on at the end so hopefully we can end this CAI debate once and for all.
Man do i wish more companies offered mods like Dodge does with their various stage upgrades for the srt line.
Hello all. I'm new SHO owner as of 11/25. I would like to do some performance upgrades but a little confused. If I do the livernois tunes, do I have to to have upgraded exhaust and cold air induction? Either way, what will the gains/losses be.
Thanks to OP of this post as I wanted to see actual hp gains from the LMS tune. Now maybe someone can post actual torque gains as well. From the graph, looks like torque wasn't changed much which is where the true power lies.
I gained 45 WHP and 68 WTQ with just the LMS Stage 4+ and a K&N panel. The bottom curve is stock, middle curve is Stage4 and top is Stage 4+.
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t440/DJE624/08-05-2013105000PM_zps2d3c472a.jpg)
So if my math is correct thats 410 bhp, 418 torque. Awesome. I just received email from LMS for black Friday special. This coming too fast. No time to test car stock and get a good feel. Gonna have to jump on this!
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/products/2010%252d14-EcoBoost-V6-Vehicles-AIW-MyCalibr8or-Tuning-Device%2C-Airaid-CAI%2C-T%252dStat%2C-Plugs-%7EBLACK-FRIDAY%7E.html (http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/products/2010%252d14-EcoBoost-V6-Vehicles-AIW-MyCalibr8or-Tuning-Device%2C-Airaid-CAI%2C-T%252dStat%2C-Plugs-%7EBLACK-FRIDAY%7E.html)
I came up with 419/420 HP on my calculator but who's quibbling!?! Go for it dude! You'll be happy with it.
http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php (http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php)
Lastly, if I take the Nestea plunge on this, I haven't looked under hood of car but pix make installation of thermostat and plugs very daunting! Comments?
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on November 27, 2013, 09:01:52 PM
Lastly, if I take the Nestea plunge on this, I haven't looked under hood of car but pix make installation of thermostat and plugs very daunting! Comments?
Easy peasy stuff....
There are a couple of "How-To" tutorials I believe floating around....
If not, it's a fairly straight forward task. Not all that complicated really.
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I'm really curious what the limits of the stock block and trans are.
In lab testing way back in 2009, FMC tested the Eco power plant (3.5L) to 720bhp before they began experiencing "failures".
This was a direct conversation I had with various Execs back in 2010.
Now I didn't ask, nor was it volunteered, what exactly those failures were.... but suffice to say.....
720bhp is your upper end/range.
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That's for the motor. What about the trans.
There are a lot of SHO's and ecoboost motors out on the streets. Hard to believe there isn't some solid data on what these can handle in a DD role.
I'd be interested if 480-550awhp was reasonable for DD.
The 6F55 Trans is pretty stout.
But i'll be personally testing those waters (480-550awhp ranges) myself after I achieve my newest dyno tune from LMS to capitalize upon my newly installed ATP Turbo upgrades.
Still waiting on my hard pipes to arrive.... probably gonna schedule the tune though for sometime in January after the Holidays are over.
There's plenty of us though that are running around in the 400-440awhp range(s) currently, that haven't had any issues if that's any indicator. :dunno:
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bpd... Cool. Anxious to see your dyno and impressions.
Did your engine cover still fit with the new turbos?
Happy Thanksgiving.
I am confused as to why my engine cover wouldn't fit?
If you are referring to the large plastic under belly pan then yes that still fits.
The decorative cover on top of the engine still fits as well (since each turbo is mounted down low, towards the bottom of either side of the engine block).
The turbo housings themselves did not change or increase in size.
I think that's why you're asking that question correct? Because you are presuming the turbos are bigger?
What was enlarged (on each turbo) were the diameters of the compressor and exhaust wheels. However the overall housings themselves remained unchanged.
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Yes.. your correct. I was asking about the top shroud that hides the engine. Considering painting or hydroing it and also considering turbo upgrade... didn't want to waste my time.
:thankyou:
Thinking about getting down pipes. Was wondering if anyone had a dyno graph for stage IV+ and downpipes only.
I don't have DPs but, I would bet you are looking at about 365 WHP.
BTW-This is what I am planning on.
4DR has a list he posted... sorry, I don't know the thread of hand... he lists them at about 20HP catted or uncatted.
No HP difference.. Just depends on if you want your car to meow or BARK!!! I have catted downpipes but removed 3rd cat and mid-muffler. Also have "X" pipe and Magnaflows. My car just GROWL's! LOL
Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on December 09, 2013, 02:15:19 PM
No HP difference.. Just depends on if you want your car to meow or BARK!!! I have catted downpipes but removed 3rd cat and mid-muffler. Also have "X" pipe and Magnaflows. My car just GROWL's! LOL
Are you saying no HP difference with down pipes?
what's the difference in stage 3, stage 4 and stage +4 ?
I think I have stage 3. I hate leaving power on the table (especially free power) and I maybe leaving a lot out ?!?!/ is it the timing and fuel available ?
I think I only have 92 available around here.....
Will the XV1 be the top dog and trump stage 1, 2, 3, 4, +4 ??
Xv1 Will be the top dog. I'm not sure if the have a 4+ for 91 Octane. They didn't a few months ago when I bugged them about it. I thought when I moved, I might only have 91 here. Luckily, I found a couple of Speedways that have it. So, I didn't press it. At that time Anthony told me that Stage 4 was the highest they went with 91 Octane. I'm pretty sure that the Xv1 will come in 91 and 93.
I remember now.... pulled an old e-mail from Anthony at LMS. Stage 3 for 2013 is the same as previous years stage 4.......
For the AIW we offer either 91 or 93 octane performance which is basically stage 4 of the prior model years that used the SCT tuner. Most customers chose to run stage 4 always so we didn't see a need to have multiple stages with the new device. Here are the stages for the 10-12 SHO SCT tuner.
- Stage 1 - SCT X-Cal 3 w/ transmission modifications with reduced torque management and removed speed limiter
- Stage 2 - SCT X-Cal 3 w/ raised boost, increased timing, transmission modifications with reduced torque management, and removed speed limiter
- Stage 3 - SCT X-Cal 3 w/ raised boost, increased timing, transmission modifications with no torque management, and removed speed limiter
- Stage 4 - SCT X-Cal 3 w/ raised boost, increased timing, transmission modifications with no torque management, and removed speed limiter
Right. So the Xv1 will bring 13's and 14's the extended boost of the 4+. AND, will benefit ALL SHOs with higher boosts along with cooler temps using the 170 Thermostat and 3 Bar upgrades.
Quote from: DJE624 on December 09, 2013, 03:04:29 PM
Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on December 09, 2013, 02:15:19 PM
No HP difference.. Just depends on if you want your car to meow or BARK!!! I have catted downpipes but removed 3rd cat and mid-muffler. Also have "X" pipe and Magnaflows. My car just GROWL's! LOL
Are you saying no HP difference with down pipes?
NOOOOO... just no difference between meow and bark.... Downpipes, whether catted or uncatted are almost equal... cats are high flow and don't restrict much, especially when you add more pipe behind.
I asked the folks at Airaid what the dyno gains in WHP showed with the current version for the stock SHO... below is the email reply;
Hi Tom
Increases of 9hp and 15ft/lbs were seen with the Airaid CAI on the Taurus SHO. These increases were seen at the wheel with no other performance modifications. Let me know if you have any additional questions or concerns.
Mark Fowler
Lead - CSR
AIRAID Filter Company
2688 E Rose Garden Lane
Phoenix, AZ. 85050
P. 602-652-9727
F. 602-652-9827
Don't know what applies with a tune... anyone with some dyno information?
Very interesting, Whether or not it's true, I wish it was. K&N is claiming 1-4 HP on the panel and 12 on the Typhoon. They don't say whether HP or WHP. I've always been pro stock box w/drop in. I'm starting to wonder if I would want the noise and look of the Typhoon. I don't like exhaust noise but I do like engine and BOV noise
Received my tuner, CAI, spark plugs, and t-stat today.
Went to connect to car to get strategy code, and nothing. Tuner just says error 59, no files loaded. Unable to scroll through to look for a "strategy code" read section. AND, now my sync display is stuck on initializing. Only shows initializing when trying to play from iPod (usb) port. But no sound now!
Did I miss something?
Can someone help?
Did you plug the MyCal in and immediately hold the Up and N buttons to get to the Engineering mode? (I think those are the buttons may be the Down and N))
You have to do that before it boots up. Kind of like hitting F12 on your computer. If error 59 is just no files on MyCal, that's right. You don't have any yet.
Quote from: DJE624 on December 09, 2013, 11:10:32 PM
Did you plug the MyCal in and immediately hold the Up and N buttons to get to the Engineering mode? (I think those are the buttons may be the Down and N))
You have to do that before it boots up. Kind of like hitting F12 on your computer. If error 59 is just no files on MyCal, that's right. You don't have any yet.
No I did not. Knew nothing of this but I will try in morning.
Will this re initialize my sync screen or will it be reset once the tune is installed?
I had planned on getting a baseline and after dyno pull first but I may be forced to scrap that plan!
Did they send you an instruction sheet? It will tell you which buttons to hold. If you don't have it, I can scan it for you. You might have to disconnect the battery to reset sync. It might reset when you start the car. IDK. My baseline was 297 WHP. With the 4+/93 I got 342. 45 HP gain.
The 4+ tune on 93 also has great power under the curve based on the dyno graphs I've seen. What that means is that the power isn't just at the peak of the RPM range but is increased across the board at every RPM.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 10, 2013, 01:49:01 AM
Quote from: DJE624 on December 09, 2013, 11:10:32 PM
Did you plug the MyCal in and immediately hold the Up and N buttons to get to the Engineering mode? (I think those are the buttons may be the Down and N))
You have to do that before it boots up. Kind of like hitting F12 on your computer. If error 59 is just no files on MyCal, that's right. You don't have any yet.
No I did not. Knew nothing of this but I will try in morning.
Will this re initialize my sync screen or will it be reset once the tune is installed?
I had planned on getting a baseline and after dyno pull first but I may be forced to scrap that plan!
Any luck yet?
Thanks guys. All steps given worked as described. I removed battery cable, and that cleared sync issue. Only thing, I left it disconnected longer than expected (20 minutes) as I had phone call and all preset information was cleared and erased. But worth it. Thanks again.
Strategy code sent to Livernois and now waiting for them to send tuner files to me.
What is procedure for loading tuned files to loader?
They will send you links for the updater software and tunes. Install the updater then the tunes on to your Windows computer. Plug Mycal into computer and update it. You're ready to tune! The email they send you with links should have a step by step for you. It's been six months since I did mine so I'm kinda rusty. Maybe someone who just did it will chime in.
Glad you got your codes off! Good Luck!
Its exactly what DJE624 said. It will come with instructions pretty strait forward. Enjoy !
If anybody has that instructional email, I would really appreciate a copy forwarded to me. I'll make a picture of it without the links and put it in our documents. Just so any one can see ahead of time what they're going to be doing. Thanks!
davidjewing@outlook.com
Took car for a quick spin. Since the battery cable off, the low speed shifts are not so smooth. Seems like that boost curve thing and the car car seems to throttle back in order to shift.
Could that mean there was some other tune present on the car?
Does it indicate a possible problem?
Will the LMS tune correct it when tuned?
There have been numerous reports of the transmission having to learn after a tune or after the battery being disconnected. I really didn't notice it myself. I don't think it matters whether the car was ever tuned or not. The new tune gets written over whatever was in there. I don't think you have a problem. Just drive it some more and it should settle down.
Not trying to Hijack the thread but does your computer NEED to be Windows for Mycal? I have a MacBook Pro...
Yes. You have to have windows. Maybe you could use a friends. Here is a link to the initial instructions.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;pic=298 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;pic=298)
This just in from Livernois:
When you first flash the 2010-2014 vehicles they shift harder than normal. They have adaptive learning and will soften up, but still be firmer than stock as it learns how you drive.
Thank you
DJ... do you data log? Is there any extra equipment/software needed What is your procedure for modifying a tune when need? TIA
MI is a long way from me... but I am planning a tune ... and maybe hot-pipes... in Jan.
No. I'm too lazy to data log. That's why I run LMS. If you use Unleashed you really need to data log so Torrie can tweak and zero in your tune. Most guys use their SCT programmer to log and then download it to their computer to send out. There are other ways I believe but I haven't really gotten into it. I do use my Torque Pro to sometimes check intake temps, boost levels, AFR and time my 0-60 MPH runs. That's about all I did this past six months.
Thanks DJ.. and thanks for starting this thread!
Any other comments to help a newbie make some decisions?
Thanks to Fast SHO for the thread. I was just lucky to have LMS dyno my car.
Just received email from LMS that they are behind on sending out tune files! Needless to say I am a bit pissed I spent a few hundred dollars for a tuner that is completely useless right now. From the email, sounds like it may be at least a week.
Is this normal to receive primary tune?
Is there a problem with existing tune that they are holding off releasing the same tune to others?
It was a simple 89/91 octane tune, that a bunch of you already running.
Who is the competition? I may consider jumping ship because of this. I don't need a company that can't or won't uphold there end of transaction, fully. I understand stuff happens but they could have told me there was an issue when I made purchase. Geez!
Then again, I could just be anxious and upset about lack of communication.
As far as I know, there have never been any problems with the 2010-2012 tunes. Mine have been fine. I do know that they do get backed up sometimes. I've heard stories where there are 60-80 tunes waiting to got out.
They do get backed up and I believe they have been tweaking. I never had a problem with the early 2013 SHO tunes in any weather. I think when they added power and boost to the later versions (upon customers request) some of us started experiencing some minor issues in cold weather on WOT.
I'm not noticing any issues with my tune.
So, how long to receive you first tune after purchase and sending in strategy code?
I can't even install peripherals as I intend to dyno car before and after tune is installed with all the goodies.
Normally it takes a day or two.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 12, 2013, 08:24:00 PM
So, how long to receive you first tune after purchase and sending in strategy code?
I can't even install peripherals as I intend to dyno car before and after tune is installed with all the goodies.
Give them a break! You do know its the holiday's = employee time off + increased sales. They are not wal-mart, and have a finite number of guys that do this thing. Relax, have a beverage and enjoy the tune when it arrives - because it's a game changer with these cars!!!!
Mark
Quote from: vernonator on December 13, 2013, 08:42:04 AM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 12, 2013, 08:24:00 PM
So, how long to receive you first tune after purchase and sending in strategy code?
I can't even install peripherals as I intend to dyno car before and after tune is installed with all the goodies.
Give them a break! You do know its the holiday's = employee time off + increased sales. They are not wal-mart, and have a finite number of guys that do this thing. Relax, have a beverage and enjoy the tune when it arrives - because it's a game changer with these cars!!!!
Mark
Good point about the holidays. I clearly did not factor that in. As I staid, it may just be my anxiety to go fast that's making me inpatient.
Well good news. I received files today. Gonna instal thermostat first for ease while car cold, then pull baseline dyno.
Then install cai, spark plugs and stage 4 tune.
What is gap on plugs that everyone is using?
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 13, 2013, 05:31:41 PM
Well good news. I received files today. Gonna instal thermostat first for ease while car cold, then pull baseline dyno.
Then install cai, spark plugs and stage 4 tune.
What is gap on plugs that everyone is using?
we recommend .030 for plug gap, but do use feeler gauges, don't trust the "gap tool" sold in many auto parts stores.
Quote from: Livernois Motorsports on December 14, 2013, 06:13:54 PM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 13, 2013, 05:31:41 PM
Well good news. I received files today. Gonna instal thermostat first for ease while car cold, then pull baseline dyno.
Then install cai, spark plugs and stage 4 tune.
What is gap on plugs that everyone is using?
we recommend .030 for plug gap, but do use feeler gauges, don't trust the "gap tool" sold in many auto parts stores.
I got my plugs the other day and plan to put then in. My receipt said ecoboost truck plugs. Are these the correct 1s?
For those of you currently running LMS tunes and having the stuttering or similar problems, LMS has apparently got a fix. Contact them for the winter fuel/cold weather tune.
I installed spark plugs, & CAI today. Whew whatta PITA. Will install tune later when able to drive car. Car has been sitting most of time. And had stereo installed. Pix on that to come. Unable to do before and after dyno since I ran outta cash. And trynna find 20" oem wheels. Oh well.
It'll be time to update that signature soon, Dxlnt1! Were any of the plugs seized? I know the back ones are a bit difficult to remove & replace for sure.
None were seized but required a little elbow grease to break the seal. Not sure if they were previously replaced before I bought car but they were in great shape. All gaps were spot on and NO fouling or carbon residue. I considered applying anti seize before re install but some manufacturers recommend against such practice. Any thoughts?
I did notice with Airaid when hard accelerating I can hear a hiss for a brief second. Can't tell if its turbo spinning or just intake sucking air. More to come on it.
Yes signature shall change. How to place a pic in signature?
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 21, 2013, 06:54:44 AM
None were seized but required a little elbow grease to break the seal. Not sure if they were previously replaced before I bought car but they were in great shape. All gaps were spot on and NO fouling or carbon residue. I considered applying anti seize before re install but some manufacturers recommend against such practice. Any thoughts?
I did notice with Airaid when hard accelerating I can hear a hiss for a brief second. Can't tell if its turbo spinning or just intake sucking air. More to come on it.
Yes signature shall change. How to place a pic in signature?
I like to use photobucket for the source of my pics. It's free & easy to use. http://photobucket.com/.. (http://photobucket.com/..) So I would go to photobucket, select my pic and copy it's URL ( a single click)
Then on EBPF.....
1--> At the top of the EBPF page above the logo left click the "Profile" button....
2-->then select "modify profile" button just below the EBPF logo on the left
2-->Scroll down to the "signature" area and paste in the pic URL. (or other options..I just like PB)
et viola'... an image in your sig. (and hopefully a pin in the map and all that other stuff in your profile filled out)
Other services will work. DJE624 can offer more advice. If he doesn't chime in soon, you might shoot him a PM.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 21, 2013, 06:54:44 AM
None were seized but required a little elbow grease to break the seal. Not sure if they were previously replaced before I bought car but they were in great shape. All gaps were spot on and NO fouling or carbon residue. I considered applying anti seize before re install but some manufacturers recommend against such practice. Any thoughts?
I did notice with Airaid when hard accelerating I can hear a hiss for a brief second. Can't tell if its turbo spinning or just intake sucking air. More to come on it.
Yes signature shall change. How to place a pic in signature?
I always put a little anti seize on every nut and bolt I remove from any car of mine, including spark plugs. Just remember a little goes a long way. I live in northwest Pa. so we get hammered with snow most every winter and that means lots of salt on the roads which is why I anti seize everything.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 21, 2013, 06:54:44 AM
Yes signature shall change. How to place a pic in signature?
At Photobuctucket, for signatures, use the bottom link. To add pictures to posts, use the second link down (with image brackets). PM me if I can be of assistance.
Quote from: DJE624 on December 21, 2013, 10:20:34 AM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 21, 2013, 06:54:44 AM
Yes signature shall change. How to place a pic in signature?
At Photobuctucket, for signatures, use the bottom link. To add pictures to posts, use the second link down (with image brackets). PM me if I can be of assistance.
Dave, educate me..... I've been using the bottom PB link for all my images. What is the difference between using the bottom and the bracketed one? :dunno:
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t440/DJE624/img_zpsb4e9af7b.jpg)
This is the image button I use for posts. Clicking it makes the brackets. Insert link between brackets.
Below is the link to use with this at Phoptobucket.
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t440/DJE624/pb_zpscda35af4.jpg)
For signatures, where there is only a text box, I use this link.
(http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t440/DJE624/pb-Copy_zps9a4790a7.jpg)
There may be other ways of doing this. It's just the way I figured it out.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on December 21, 2013, 06:54:44 AM
None were seized but required a little elbow grease to break the seal. Not sure if they were previously replaced before I bought car but they were in great shape. All gaps were spot on and NO fouling or carbon residue. I considered applying anti seize before re install but some manufacturers recommend against such practice. Any thoughts?
I also fall into the "apply a little anti-seize" camp. But didn't need it on the 95 SHO, did not use it for the Edge either. I DID apply it to the Intrepid coz the old plugs were SO difficult to remove & felt crossthreaded, and did not want the new plugs to suffer the same fate.
I installed stage 4+ yesterday. Wow. So much more responsive. I need to find some one to SHO off to!
Glad you like it! It should be knocking a good 7 tenths off your 1/4 (with 93 octane anyway).
Quote from: DJE624 on December 24, 2013, 10:13:57 PM
Glad you like it! It should be knocking a good 7 tenths off your 1/4 (with 93 octane anyway).
I haven't laid into yet but the possibilities! Turned TCS off and got a little scratch from tires shifting. Will wait for law enforcement to be on donut break to hit it once on the street.
Have a rollickin' good time with the new tune!