Ecoboost Performance Forum

I've pretty much decided that my next "mod" will be ceramic coating the paint.  I decided to go with Adam's Ceramic Paint Coating 9H hardness kit.

I've searched and I don't really see any information on people doing this.  Can anyone offer some pointers or tips/tricks?  I have to admit I'm more nervous about THIS, than I was applying AJP's tune. :)

Seems fairly simple if it is the same product as shown in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeUTBeOSPYU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeUTBeOSPYU)

I have heard that Adams has pretty good customer service, so you should be able to lean on them if necessary.

Quote from: SHOdded on September 06, 2018, 04:23:04 PM
Seems fairly simple if it is the same product as shown in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeUTBeOSPYU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeUTBeOSPYU)

I have heard that Adams has pretty good customer service, so you should be able to lean on them if necessary.

Agreed....it seems simple.  I priced it here locally, and it's upwards of $1500 - $2000!  Apparently these places do a lot of prep work.  Not being too much in to bodywork....I'm hesitant cautious.

Having done my Flex in the past couple of weeks, all the work is in the prep. It took me two days of compound + polishing to get the paint the way I wanted it. It took me a couple of hours to do 2 layers of coating, mainly from the time between coats. Each coat took about 45 minutes or so, with 3 hours in between for the ceramic coating I used, Carpro Cquartz

Quote from: 4sfed on September 06, 2018, 01:17:40 PM
I've pretty much decided that my next "mod" will be ceramic coating the paint.  I decided to go with Adam's Ceramic Paint Coating 9H hardness kit.

I've searched and I don't really see any information on people doing this.  Can anyone offer some pointers or tips/tricks?  I have to admit I'm more nervous about THIS, than I was applying AJP's tune. :)

Glad this question was asked actually. Couple reasons i've been less active on the forum this summer . . .
1) Returned the car to stock back in April and am just about to take it into the dealership to have them troubleshoot my oil ingestion issue.
2) I started a side business detailing cars on my "days off" from my normal job.

Just so happens the Adam's Polishes warehouse is 20 minutes from my house and i use their products almost exclusively so i'm extremely familiar with the product line and process'.
Adam's ceramic coating is one of the easier retail products to apply by design as it's considered a "enthusiast grade" coating vs "professional grade" coating which are more difficult to apply but have much better durability and better anti static capabilities(less dust accumulation).

The real question to ask yourself is are you going to do the prep work yourself? there's A LOT that goes into getting ready for any coating and i fear many people underestimate the effect that has on the end result. The ultimate goal is to get your paint as perfect as possible before you "seal it all in" with the coating. So the paint needs to be CLEAN and then swirl marks/surface scratches removed with a machine compound and polish.
The full process is as follows:
Strip wash, iron decontamination, claybar, compound+polish, paint prep wipe down, then apply coating.
If any of this sounds over your head  or you've never touched a polisher to paint i'd recommend paying someone to do the prep process and paint correction for you and then do the coating yourself.

It's a big job but totally worth it and makes your car SOOO much easier to maintain.
Any other questions please feel free to ask. Adams also has a forum that's a great resource.

Welcome back to "life", sir!

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on September 06, 2018, 11:44:02 PM
The real question to ask yourself is are you going to do the prep work yourself? there's A LOT that goes into getting ready for any coating and i fear many people underestimate the effect that has on the end result. The ultimate goal is to get your paint as perfect as possible before you "seal it all in" with the coating. So the paint needs to be CLEAN and then swirl marks/surface scratches removed with a machine compound and polish.
The full process is as follows:
Strip wash, iron decontamination, claybar, compound+polish, paint prep wipe down, then apply coating.
If any of this sounds over your head  or you've never touched a polisher to paint i'd recommend paying someone to do the prep process and paint correction for you and then do the coating yourself.

Excellent!  Thank you!  That's what I was afraid of...and it looks like their kit doesn't include all the stuff to do all of that prep properly.

So....what products do you recommend for all the prep work you mentioned above.  I assume Adam's, but what of their products covers the necessary prep work?  AND, any tools you recommend?

Thank you again for the advice.

Quote from: SHOdded on September 07, 2018, 12:59:51 AM
Welcome back to "life", sir!

Haha thanks! Hopefully my issues are remedied soon and i'll be more active here again.

QuoteExcellent!  Thank you!  That's what I was afraid of...and it looks like their kit doesn't include all the stuff to do all of that prep properly.

So....what products do you recommend for all the prep work you mentioned above.  I assume Adam's, but what of their products covers the necessary prep work?  AND, any tools you recommend?

I'll try and provide links to everythings i would use. I love adams stuff but i have found more affordable substitutions for certain things.
"Strip wash" is basically a non ph neutral car shampoo that is stronger than the ph neutral wash that most detailing companies offer. It has the ability to remove previously applied waxes/sealants etc. This is what you want to use before doing a complete detail. adams has theirs but i use this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516)
Of course after any application of wax/sealant/ceramic you want to use a ph neutral soap.
Then iron decontamination- watch the video for instructions but it's easy to use
https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-iron-remover-16oz.html (https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-iron-remover-16oz.html)
clay bar- Really any clay bar will do. You can buy many at auto parts stores then you just need detail spray for lubrication. I just use the large bottle of meguiars detail spray. No need to use top dollar detail spray for clay lube. I do however also like Adams clay mitt- pricey but it makes the process go a little quicker.

Now on to polishing the car . . . There's a whole world's worth of info/opinions/ equipment options out there. You could research it for months and never have a clear answer. I'll leave you with this video as i think it boils it down for a beginner. Harbor freight DA machine, griots complete compound(not what i use but it will do well).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CUC6zurChM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CUC6zurChM)
Then for maintenance use Adams Ceramic Boost every 3rd wash to prolong the longevity of the coating.

Welcome to the big world of detailing! haha. I'm sure you'll have more questions throughout the process. Don't hesitate to ask

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on September 07, 2018, 09:46:49 AM
Of course after any application of wax/sealant/ceramic you want to use a ph neutral soap.

Pfff...of COURSE!

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on September 07, 2018, 09:46:49 AM
"Strip wash" is basically a non ph neutral car shampoo that is stronger than the ph neutral wash that most detailing companies offer. It has the ability to remove previously applied waxes/sealants etc. This is what you want to use before doing a complete detail. adams has theirs but i use this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516)
Of course after any application of wax/sealant/ceramic you want to use a ph neutral soap.
Then iron decontamination- watch the video for instructions but it's easy to use
https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-iron-remover-16oz.html (https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-iron-remover-16oz.html)
clay bar- Really any clay bar will do. You can buy many at auto parts stores then you just need detail spray for lubrication. I just use the large bottle of meguiars detail spray. No need to use top dollar detail spray for clay lube. I do however also like Adams clay mitt- pricey but it makes the process go a little quicker.

Now on to polishing the car . . . There's a whole world's worth of info/opinions/ equipment options out there. You could research it for months and never have a clear answer. I'll leave you with this video as i think it boils it down for a beginner. Harbor freight DA machine, griots complete compound(not what i use but it will do well).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CUC6zurChM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CUC6zurChM)
Then for maintenance use Adams Ceramic Boost every 3rd wash to prolong the longevity of the coating.

Welcome to the big world of detailing! haha. I'm sure you'll have more questions throughout the process. Don't hesitate to ask

Seriously...excellent information!  THANK YOU!

...I may actually want to change the springs again, than do this. :D  However I AM looking forward to how this turns out, so I'm expecting it to be worth the trouble.

Just in case...do you ever find your way through St. Louis, MO?  :)  ;)

If you get a Harbor China polisher, swap the grease in the head out to a high end grease. It'll reduce the noise and vibration some.

Quote from: Izzybird on September 07, 2018, 01:43:24 PM
If you get a Harbor China polisher, swap the grease in the head out to a high end grease. It'll reduce the noise and vibration some.

Thats good to know. I got a HFreight cheap plug in drill the other day as my old tried and true plug in burned up due to me. Man that Friggin HFreight drill is LOUD.

I hope this stuff goes on as easy as it looks as long as you prep prep prep.

Quote from: 4sfed on September 07, 2018, 10:12:37 AM

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on September 07, 2018, 09:46:49 AM
Of course after any application of wax/sealant/ceramic you want to use a ph neutral soap.

Pfff...of COURSE!

Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on September 07, 2018, 09:46:49 AM
"Strip wash" is basically a non ph neutral car shampoo that is stronger than the ph neutral wash that most detailing companies offer. It has the ability to remove previously applied waxes/sealants etc. This is what you want to use before doing a complete detail. adams has theirs but i use this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-and-Boat-Pressure-Wash-Concentrate/50941516)
Of course after any application of wax/sealant/ceramic you want to use a ph neutral soap.
Then iron decontamination- watch the video for instructions but it's easy to use
https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-iron-remover-16oz.html (https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-iron-remover-16oz.html)
clay bar- Really any clay bar will do. You can buy many at auto parts stores then you just need detail spray for lubrication. I just use the large bottle of meguiars detail spray. No need to use top dollar detail spray for clay lube. I do however also like Adams clay mitt- pricey but it makes the process go a little quicker.

Now on to polishing the car . . . There's a whole world's worth of info/opinions/ equipment options out there. You could research it for months and never have a clear answer. I'll leave you with this video as i think it boils it down for a beginner. Harbor freight DA machine, griots complete compound(not what i use but it will do well).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CUC6zurChM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CUC6zurChM)
Then for maintenance use Adams Ceramic Boost every 3rd wash to prolong the longevity of the coating.

Welcome to the big world of detailing! haha. I'm sure you'll have more questions throughout the process. Don't hesitate to ask

Seriously...excellent information!  THANK YOU!

...I may actually want to change the springs again, than do this. :D  However I AM looking forward to how this turns out, so I'm expecting it to be worth the trouble.

Just in case...do you ever find your way through St. Louis, MO?  :)  ;)

funny you should mention that my wife is from columbia MO and a trip to lake of the ozarks is in the works for next summer! haha


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Funny I stumbled across this post in the most recent, but I live in Columbia, Mo!

I foresee a get-together soon :D

I've kept a ceramic coating on mine since new. Have it refreshed or reapplied every three years or so. Then just keep a coat of wax on it yearly. I've been very satisfied.... And it looks pretty good as those have seen at the Ford Nationals.

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I did mine last month. She certainly looks 100 times better. Like said, it's all in the details. Took me and my son 6 hrs or so to clay it, paint correct (most important part and time consuming)swirls and light scratched disappear. Has to be done in certain order with different grades of polishes. Good DA is essential.  I think Q2 has the best prep spray, easy on, easy off, ceramic coating was the easiest part lol. photos to follow, they're on the phone lol.

Photos as promised(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/8607e1390e86aa9fd96d2defa098f28f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/db3400a34b3a2b63d863d3322d400360.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/41d666366cd965205a984cd88c3b9db5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/c47b6be45954481cb2f2c3a01c307c50.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/871d2d55d821a52f16b038219bd5ed08.jpg)

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It looks very NICE! Need to lower that Beaut! Z

Dang it, I KNOW I have seen a red 2013 SHO SOMEWHERE before.  Think, THink, THINK, Jimmy Neutron!

Quote from: Bronco2fan on September 10, 2018, 06:17:57 PM
I did mine last month. She certainly looks 100 times better. Like said, it's all in the details. Took me and my son 6 hrs or so to clay it, paint correct (most important part and time consuming)swirls and light scratched disappear. Has to be done in certain order with different grades of polishes. Good DA is essential.  I think Q2 has the best prep spray, easy on, easy off, ceramic coating was the easiest part lol. photos to follow, they're on the phone lol.

Okay...so what do you mean by "paint correction"?  Is that not the whole strip wash, clay bar, polish process?

Not necessarily. Newer rides may only need clay bar to remove surface contamination. Others have swirls and scratches over the whole body, and need to be taken care of. You can't use 1 step to remove them. Different grades of compounds needed to remove them and leave the paint and clearcoat smooth and blemish free.

Then prep for ceramic coating. Different products.

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Like these. Use what you feel comfortable with. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180911/71e5e3484ec11675849449743e25e1bc.jpg)

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Quote from: Bronco2fan on September 11, 2018, 08:14:57 AM
Like these. Use what you feel comfortable with. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180911/71e5e3484ec11675849449743e25e1bc.jpg)

Okay, so how do you know when to use each of these different polishes?

Get a really good LED light, not florescent, shine it on your car at different angles. If you see massive swirls or scratches start with the lowest number and work your way up till they're gone or almost imperceptible.

Like sanding wood smooth, you work your way up.

The ceramic can actually fill in the small ones to a point.

This is why if you never used a DA or similar polishing tool, people opt to have it done for them. ( Not cheap)  Time consuming and more than 1 product is often needed.

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I do a ton of detailing on my rides.  Adams is also my go to.  The one big thing about ceramic coating to remember is that it does in fact add an actual layer onto the paint.  So take your time, don't be in a rush.  Also one thing no one mentions is it's very common to end up with a spec of dust or dirt somewhere that gets into the coating.  Unless you're in a painters booth, it's gonna happen.  No big deal though, absolutely no one will notice or know it's there than you.

A product that's not Adams that I absolutely love for ceramic and non ceramic is called Clear Shine Nano Wash.  It's some sort of voodoo but for just a quick wipe spray it's sealing abilities are insane.  When I recently did a strip wash on my Cobra the NanoWash wasn't even phased on  it's sealing.

Quote from: Vortech347 on September 11, 2018, 10:25:29 AM
Also one thing no one mentions is it's very common to end up with a spec of dust or dirt somewhere that gets into the coating.

Excellent!  That was a question I was gonna ask; their video mentions it being tacky for at least a little while after applying.  My garage is not hermetically sealed....so how do I get something out without ruining the coating?

Anyone do the "bag test"? When the wife bought her SHO she decided she wasn't paying someone any longer to upkeep her cars, that job was now mine. I tried to remind her that I fix things, not clean...lol. So, I bought all the stuff, read tons on the detail forums, got advice from acquaintances, I can do this. Worked my rear off and the car was gleaming, surely I'm ready to start sealing it back up. Tried this "bag test" people talk about and it was a grit farm. Needless to say, I'll just pay to have it done from now on. That's why I like a beater truck, it gets washed when it rains!

Done it for the clay barring stage.  So easy to feel the before/after difference!

Quote from: 4sfed on September 11, 2018, 10:34:04 AM

Quote from: Vortech347 on September 11, 2018, 10:25:29 AM
Also one thing no one mentions is it's very common to end up with a spec of dust or dirt somewhere that gets into the coating.

Excellent!  That was a question I was gonna ask; their video mentions it being tacky for at least a little while after applying.  My garage is not hermetically sealed....so how do I get something out without ruining the coating?

Just be mindful of it.  While you're doing it and it's curing don't go do yard work and keep the garage door closed.