So a few months ago I ran the 1/8 mile track down the street with intake, LMS stage 4 tune and ran a 8.41 in the 1/8th. Went tonight after upgrading to new plugs, new thermostat, and the 4+x tune from LMS, and the best I ran tonight was 8.448. I ran that twice... and then I ran a 8.469. VERY consistent. Started out around 90 degrees and humid.... too hot. Then after my 2nd run I opened the hood and scanned using Dash Command and read my IAT. ... 127 degrees!! And coolant temp of over 200 degrees. I let it sit with hood open for about an hour. Scanned again and saw 88 degrees IAT so I went for my 3rd run, and ran the exact same as my first run.... literally exact. So I ran slower after all my recent upgrades....I even took out my spare tire this time.... but I also had 3/4 tank of fuel compared to the "20 miles to empty" message I had a couple months ago.... so I was hoping to see the 7 ' s tonight, but I sadly saw slower than normal. Any ideas?
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/eec62b3dd8081e4e13b08b2273801e7f.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/54503a44fa33ba885cf4277c578b567f.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/d47a12c2d2733fa25bbecb31c1a8bff9.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/c355691eba9b84c46c7f011c19461504.jpg)
Your 60s are high, that's most of your issue there. They should be closer to 1.85. Were you getting a lot of wheel spin? What are you launching at?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Those 60' times look slow, thinking the hot humid air has alot to do with it. What were the conditions last time?
My last outing with 3 bar tune I had a best of 1.81 in the 60' with some wheel spin. I think the humidity plays as big a role if not bigger than the heat, preliminary thoughts only having car 4 months now
2011 SHO vs Chevy Nova: http://youtu.be/g3vJn__7V9I
There is the video of my 8.44 run vs Chevy nova
Quote from: ShoBoat on August 29, 2014, 11:55:30 PM
Your 60s are high, that's most of your issue there. They should be closer to 1.85. Were you getting a lot of wheel spin? What are you launching at?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not getting a ton of wheel spin, I have some wheel hop going into 2nd, but that's all. It HAS to do with the humidity. You can see the condensation on the roof of the SHO in the video.... I was pouring sweat all night in shorts and t shirt with Temps around 75-80 around 9:30-10:30 pm. I think humidity is around 65-75%. Launching is on the time slips. One at 1800, one at 2000, and one at 2500. 2500 was the Nova run in the video. It just felt super slow off the line, but when I hit 2nd it came alive.... which tells me it was sucking cooler air at that point.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/8815138003851a4dec9ecfdeed530cad.jpg)
Here is where I ran an 8.41 last time
I have a fast mph with the new tune.... but times are slower...
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
Taking the engine cover off should have a modest cooling effect on IAT but will have the most dramatic effect on the IAT2 (charge air temp), at least that's what I found. Also I really think temporarily removing (super easy) the rear hood seal will give some of the benefits of a cowl hood with none of the cost.
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
The 4x tune wasn't broken in last night. After I reflashing back to stock to take the car to the dealer, I accidentally loaded just the 4+ tune, and drove around on it for a month.... so when I got to the track last night, I realized that, and did a fresh reflash of 4x. I need to do the airaid fix, and I did have the engine cover off.
Quote from: Larrylu on August 30, 2014, 08:14:37 AM
Taking the engine cover off should have a modest cooling effect on IAT but will have the most dramatic effect on the IAT2 (charge air temp), at least that's what I found. Also I really think temporarily removing (super easy) the rear hood seal will give some of the benefits of a cowl hood with none of the cost.
Where might one find the rear hood seal? Sounds like a nice idea for track sessions.
I believe Larry is talking about this strip here?
Quote from: SHO-TYM on August 30, 2014, 08:33:42 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
The 4x tune wasn't broken in last night. After I reflashing back to stock to take the car to the dealer, I accidentally loaded just the 4+ tune, and drove around on it for a month.... so when I got to the track last night, I realized that, and did a fresh reflash of 4x. I need to do the airaid fix, and I did have the engine cover off.
Quote from: Larrylu on August 30, 2014, 08:14:37 AM
Taking the engine cover off should have a modest cooling effect on IAT but will have the most dramatic effect on the IAT2 (charge air temp), at least that's what I found. Also I really think temporarily removing (super easy) the rear hood seal will give some of the benefits of a cowl hood with none of the cost.
Where might one find the rear hood seal? Sounds like a nice idea for track sessions. T
The cowl cover its that one piece under your windshield,you have to open your hood,that big piece of plastic lays accross the the bottom windshield,it pops out and make sure to put it back a.s.a.p cause if it rains its not good.
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
SHOdded any benefits keeping the heat set to high and then turning it off prior to launch?
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 08:47:25 AM
I believe Larry is talking about this strip here?
That's the one alright. There a series of "C" shaped hooks facing left on left side and right on right side. The seal has holes in the bottom that match up with the hooks so if you tug gently from center to each side of the car one hole at a time you can remove without damage. Would rain getting in because this seal were removed be any worse than BPD's beautiful and fully functional hood vents?
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
I did lose over a tenth in the 1/4 when re-flashing tune at the track, but my 60's were real close still(only hundredths of a change).
Quote from: ZSHO on August 30, 2014, 09:07:50 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
SHOdded any benefits keeping the heat set to high and then turning it off prior to launch?
Maybe less visits to the sauna needed...lol
Quote from: SHOnUup on August 30, 2014, 09:36:29 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on August 30, 2014, 09:07:50 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
SHOdded any benefits keeping the heat set to high and then turning it off prior to launch?
Maybe less visits to the sauna needed...lol
True statement..... I won't be going back until October for cooler temps.... also just this minute ordered non catted downpipes! That should help those little turbos get going!
Quote from: ZSHO on August 30, 2014, 09:07:50 AM
SHOdded any benefits keeping the heat set to high and then turning it off prior to launch?
Might help a tiny amount, but the heat being removed is going to be small compared to that from a radiator with the TStat open & fans running. More surface area and bigger fans.
Quote from: SHO-TYM on August 30, 2014, 09:46:25 AM
also just this minute ordered non catted downpipes! That should help those little turbos get going!
Pics or yer just kidding around :D
Quote from: SHO-TYM on August 30, 2014, 09:46:25 AM
Quote from: SHOnUup on August 30, 2014, 09:36:29 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on August 30, 2014, 09:07:50 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
SHOdded any benefits keeping the heat set to high and then turning it off prior to launch?
Maybe less visits to the sauna needed...lol
True statement..... I won't be going back until October for cooler temps.... also just this minute ordered non catted downpipes! That should help those little turbos get going!
Nice purchase, taking it to the next level!!! 8)
Quote from: SHO-TYM on August 30, 2014, 09:46:25 AM
Quote from: SHOnUup on August 30, 2014, 09:36:29 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on August 30, 2014, 09:07:50 AM
Quote from: SHOdded on August 30, 2014, 01:41:26 AM
Is the 4x tune broken in? Def do the ShoBoat mod on the Airaid to keep IATs as low as possible. Engine cover off (at least for the track/summer)? A/C & all other accessories off?
SHOdded any benefits keeping the heat set to high and then turning it off prior to launch?
Maybe less visits to the sauna needed...lol
True statement..... I won't be going back until October for cooler temps.... also just this minute ordered non catted downpipes! That should help those little turbos get going! SHO-TYM order the c.converter gasket 7.76ea and the exhaust pipe gasket part#7T4Z-9450-AA at TASCA FORD to be on the safe side,total 4 gaskets at 7.76 ea.
Do you have access to a logger, or Torque? You might be getting a lot of KR out of the hole. That would explain the high 60s. The modded Airaid had reduced KR in comparison to the stock box. I would imagine it would be the same without the added seal. If you are not getting wheel spin and launching hard than something else is at play. Do you know what the DA was at the track when you ran?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To help out a TON I would remove the engine cowl cover and put bags of ice (multiple) along the front, top and back of the intake and also on the intake piping/by the IAT sensor.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
What were other cars running? Always good to compare timeslips with other cars to gauge how everyone else is running in the same conditions.
Quote from: PokerMunkee on August 30, 2014, 01:56:33 PM
What were other cars running? Always good to compare timeslips with other cars to gauge how everyone else is running in the same conditions.
I was talking with some others there, and they were having the same issues.... too hot and too humid. Temps were around 85-90 degrees, and humidity was around 65-75%. Just too hot to do well.
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on August 30, 2014, 12:25:11 PM
To help out a TON I would remove the engine cowl cover and put bags of ice (multiple) along the front, top and back of the intake and also on the intake piping/by the IAT sensor.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
Sounds like I need to prepare a little better for my next runs. I am not too worried about the burnout issue, seeing as I don't think we can even do an effective burnout in these cars... but good to know for future racing with other vehicles. Thanks for the pointers.
Quote from: SHO-TYM on August 30, 2014, 03:29:56 PM
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on August 30, 2014, 12:25:11 PM
To help out a TON I would remove the engine cowl cover and put bags of ice (multiple) along the front, top and back of the intake and also on the intake piping/by the IAT sensor.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
Sounds like I need to prepare a little better for my next runs. I am not too worried about the burnout issue, seeing as I don't think we can even do an effective burnout in these cars... but good to know for future racing with other vehicles. Thanks for the pointers.
If anything the little burnout we can do will help free the tires of any debris you may have picked up on the way back to the line. I am gonna try some next time to see.
3/4 of tank vs. 3 gallons is like 85 lbs of a change and with the weight loss you also lose some of that shifting weight to the rear.
This is a good clean off the tires "burnout"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_v39peqWVQ#t=61 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_v39peqWVQ#t=61)
Another one - outside the car:
Ford Flex Ecoboost drag racing 09 Cadillac CTS-V - Flex runs 12's! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzjOupHRxO4#ws)
Was just looking at the rules and tips from local dragway. It states that if you are on street tires, "DO NOT drive through the water box! Your treaded tires will pick up water in the treads, and when you do burnout, it will sling water all over inside the wheel well. You will then track water all the way to the tree, and water will be dripping down onto your tires, making them very slick! If you do this, you make the track dangerous for everyone, and you may be asked to leave if you do it again. The water is for slicks, not treaded tires. Etc...."
Lapeer Dragway via the "readme for beginners" tab
Quote from: SHOnUup on September 06, 2014, 12:34:49 PM
Was just looking at the rules and tips from local dragway. It states that if you are on street tires, "DO NOT drive through the water box! Your treaded tires will pick up water in the treads, and when you do burnout, it will sling water all over inside the wheel well. You will then track water all the way to the tree, and water will be dripping down onto your tires, making them very slick! If you do this, you make the track dangerous for everyone, and you may be asked to leave if you do it again. The water is for slicks, not treaded tires. Etc...."
Lapeer Dragway via the "readme for beginners" tab
Everytime I go to my local strip, they tell me to make sure to stay out of the water
Also found it interesting that some track etiquette is waiting for other racer to pre-stage before you fully stage.
Yea. I fully staged against a 5.0 stang, and they made me back up and wait for him to pre stage before I fully stage..... thought it was odd... but whatever
Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
Quote from: TimmyATL on September 06, 2014, 04:34:59 PM
Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
No doubt the PP cars are going to be quicker.
By the end of the quarter, I doubt there is any difference to be had. As the power ramps up, the 2.77 will have less issues with wheelspin giving it the advantage.
Quote from: black99lightning on September 06, 2014, 04:52:02 PM
Quote from: TimmyATL on September 06, 2014, 04:34:59 PM
Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
No doubt the PP cars are going to be quicker.
Just FYI..... Dave's 1/8 in a '12 non-PP SHO are 8.0-8.07.... LMS tune, DPs, Airaid, but not other performance mods and street tires.... Don't have a DA on those times ....
Quote from: BiGMaC on September 06, 2014, 06:25:36 PM
Quote from: black99lightning on September 06, 2014, 04:52:02 PM
Quote from: TimmyATL on September 06, 2014, 04:34:59 PM
Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
No doubt the PP cars are going to be quicker.
Just FYI..... Dave's 1/8 in a '12 non-PP SHO are 8.0-8.07.... LMS tune, DPs, Airaid, but not other performance mods and street tires.... Don't have a DA on those times ....
I will see what I get next time. I am waiting until 60 degree weather. I am running LMS 4+X with airaid, 3 bar, and new catless downpipes. I know I will be running better times next time
My 2011 non pp was pulling consistent 8.2's on LME 4++ tune....added 3 bar and they're 8.1's
That temp change will make wonders compared to those 80 degree temps you ran in
Quote from: SHOnUup on September 06, 2014, 06:38:57 PM
That temp change will make wonders compared to those 80 degree temps you ran in
I'd say I'll be in the upper 7s with the mods I have now
Quote from: SHO-TYM on September 06, 2014, 07:07:36 PM
Quote from: SHOnUup on September 06, 2014, 06:38:57 PM
That temp change will make wonders compared to those 80 degree temps you ran in
I'd say I'll be in the upper 7s with the mods I have now
I like those thoughts!
If you haven't modded your AIRAID, you'll be quicker with the OEM intake.
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on September 06, 2014, 07:44:26 PM
If you haven't modded your AIRAID, you'll be quicker with the OEM intake.
Working on the mod now. Trying to figure out the best way to keep it from looking ugly.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/06/ea225ddd026dab36d4259f11c56c380e.jpg)stuck with ugly here, but it works
Quote from: SHOnUup on September 06, 2014, 07:48:44 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/06/ea225ddd026dab36d4259f11c56c380e.jpg)stuck with ugly here, but it works
Did you see noticeable decrease in IAT with that mod?
Oh yeah...instant drop in IAT1 when on the throttle...stopping at lights in traffic it goes up a few degrees but quickly recovers...wrapped all of the piping to the turbos 50% of the way with the insulation and my Iat2 temps are very sensitive to the throttle also. Even after a long heat soak, Iat2 drops much quicker.
Remember everyone saying a larger cac would be near impossible to fit. Wonder if you could do another cac just for 1 of the turbos and leave stock one for other? Hmmm
Quote from: SHOnUup on September 06, 2014, 07:53:39 PM
Oh yeah...instant drop in IAT1 when on the throttle...stopping at lights in traffic it goes up a few degrees but quickly recovers...wrapped all of the piping to the turbos 50% of the way with the insulation and my Iat2 temps are very sensitive to the throttle also. Even after a long heat soak, Iat2 drops much quicker.
What material did you use on the inside of the intake box? And where did you get the foam?
Insulation was from home depot and used to wrap heat ducts. Comes in a roll for $20(way more than you need). The foam I used to wrap the top of box is for wrapping plumbing lines(1/2" lines is size I used). I put down 1/2" thick flat foam on current blade on box before wrapping with the round stuff.(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/06/1e77eac16f86ffe6d05a26ed43ed02c7.jpg)
Got this specific style at Menards (carries insulation also) because it had better adhesive strip than product at Home Depot. $5 for 6' I think
Quote from: SHOnUup on September 06, 2014, 08:36:54 PM
Insulation was from home depot and used to wrap heat ducts. Comes in a roll for $20(way more than you need). The foam I used to wrap the top of box is for wrapping plumbing lines(1/2" lines is size I used). I put down 1/2" thick flat foam on current blade on box before wrapping with the round stuff.(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/06/1e77eac16f86ffe6d05a26ed43ed02c7.jpg)
Got this specific style at Menards (carries insulation also) because it had better adhesive strip than product at Home Depot. $5 for 6' I think
Thanks! Wonder if you could paint the silver insulation black before applying to intake box to minimize how noticeable it is
Maybe call a heating and cooling supply company for different color. Wish I would've thought of this earlier. My buddy owns an HVAC company but is in Europe on vacation right now. Bet he'd know.
On the way to the racetrack last night,installed my new Airaid taller blade and prior to getting there,stopped by to grab some grub and ate at the paking lot,figured to open the hood and let her cool off,then went in my trunk where my toolbox is and my extra 2-bar and 3-bar,map was there figured let me install the new 2-bar from Rock auto,swapped them out,easy peasy,start the car then she starts shaking almost ready to shut off,I was pissed and nervous and figured to go back home 10miles driving with check engine light on and the wrench light,the car wouldnt do more then 40mph,hope i didnt cause any damage,will swap the old 2-bar back today.
Quote from: ZSHO on September 07, 2014, 07:29:06 AM
On the way to the racetrack last night,installed my new Airaid taller blade and prior to getting there,stopped by to grab some grub and ate at the paking lot,figured to open the hood and let her cool off,then went in my trunk where my toolbox is and my extra 2-bar and 3-bar,map was there figured let me install the new 2-bar from Rock auto,swapped them out,easy peasy,start the car then she starts shaking almost ready to shut off,I was pissed and nervous and figured to go back home 10miles driving with check engine light on and the wrench light,the car wouldnt do more then 40mph,hope i didnt cause any damage,will swap the old 2-bar back today.
Did you install 3 bar on accident. 3 bar needs it's own set of tunes and causes this exact kind of problems described.
^^^ what he said.... if you go from 2 bar to 3 bat without changing your tune, your car will run like absolute crap.
I doubled check before install and had the CA AT THE END,I was comparing both of them and under where it says Germany,the original says 6848,the new one says 6847,all other # are the same and dont know if that matters?
I doubled check before install and had the CA AT THE END,I was comparing both of them and under where it says Germany,the original says 6848,the new one says 6847,all other # are the same and dont know if that matters?Also let me be a little bit more clearer,lack of sleep,the 2-bar by the intake,not the one on top of the manifold.
Wrong one I'd say. Think I read about wrong ones getting sent out from there before also.
Quote from: ZSHO on September 07, 2014, 08:03:22 AM
I doubled check before install and had the CA AT THE END,I was comparing both of them and under where it says Germany,the original says 6848,the new one says 6847,all other # are the same and dont know if that matters?Also let me be a little bit more clearer,lack of sleep,the 2-bar by the intake,not the one on top of the manifold.
The 3Bar MAP part number ends in "AB" or "B" ... see the pics below of the 3BAR in my car and the box it came in from Ford. .... once you get it figured out right on the part or box with a permanent marker. The MAP goes in the top of the driver's side of the manifold. The TIP (throttle-body intake pressure sensor is on the IC to TB tubing on the passenger side... see last pic below.
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/Tuning/3BarPart_zps38044cb0.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/Tuning/3BarPart_zps38044cb0.jpg.html)
[img width=400
height=300]http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/Tuning/3BarBox_zps2dd2a256.jpg[/img] (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/Tuning/3BarBox_zps2dd2a256.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/Tuning/3BARShipLabel_zps3043fdee.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/Tuning/3BARShipLabel_zps3043fdee.jpg.html)
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/Tuning/3BarBox_zps2dd2a256.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/Tuning/3BarBox_zps2dd2a256.jpg.html)
Here's where it goes:
(http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w596/knot2bfound/Hotpipes/9-HotpipesStockFullFrontlabelled_zps01fef6d2.jpg) (http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/knot2bfound/media/Hotpipes/9-HotpipesStockFullFrontlabelled_zps01fef6d2.jpg.html)
A last thought... IMHO not the best idea to make changes on the way to the track... Also, get a tune loaded for the 3BAR as previously pointed out if you don't want to use limp mode.
Thanks for taking the time to do the illustration, BiGMac! :thumb:
That is a very nice pic!
SHO TYM, I think the issue here is time on tune. Adaptive learning is still in play and it takes the cars a little time to sort everything out. Remember 1st and foremost these cars are designed to protect themselves. I will bet the next time out your time will be better.
Everytime I reflash the car seems off and within a couple of days, it's better than before.
I had the same issue consistently stock when changing corn blends.
Quote from: ZSHO on September 07, 2014, 09:23:09 AM
This is the part Rock auto sent me,and just swapped the 2-bar tip sensor back to the original one and car seems fine,got a DTC code po-236 and cleared it.
Yea, that's abnormally voltage to pressure sensor as expected.... It should not return.
SHO TYM.... I'm with FoMoCo.... I have had the same experience he relates 3-4 times. Drive it like you want it to run and give it a couple of days.
Rock auto mailed me the correct 3-bar map CX-2231,they sent me the wrong one,for my trouble they gave me 5% off of the sale price which was 47.79,which ended to be 45.00 and they gave me free shippng,+did not have to send the 2-bar map back,so have an extra one now.
Quote from: ZSHO on September 23, 2014, 10:29:42 AM
Rock auto mailed me the correct 3-bar map CX-2231,they sent me the wrong one,for my trouble they gave me 5% off of the sale price which was 47.79,which ended to be 45.00 and they gave me free shippng,+did not have to send the 2-bar map back,so have an extra one now.
Cool! Glad you got straight with RA... And that they showed excellent customer service!