Jeff from Michigan. 3weeks into a new used 2015 SHO.
What identifies a PP Or PI?? Also where are the paint codes located?
Lookin real hard at LMS for some mods. Currently own a 2011 Camaro SS with LMS stage 2 work. Lookin like this Taurus could run right with it with very little work done to it. Go and figure right?¿
Welcome, and congrats on your new ride!
https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=Taurus&year=2015 (https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=Taurus&year=2015)
QuoteSHO Performance Package includes an enhanced
sport-tuned suspension, performance friction brake
pads, sport-calibrated steering, AdvanceTrac®
electronic stability control "Sport Mode" setting,
3.16:1 final drive ratio, Alcantara®-trimmed steering
wheel, P245/45R20 Performance Summer Tire
Compound,1
and tire sealant/inflation kit (n/a with
Driver Assist Package)
Voice-activated Navigation System with
integrated SiriusXM® Traffic and Travel Link®
with 5-year subscription
PI specs probably you would have to look at Ford fleet info, not sure how much is published to the public.
Thev Exterior paint code can be found inside the (Drivers side) door jam.
Additional Info can be found below. Z
https://www.etis.ford.com/ (https://www.etis.ford.com/)
(https://i.imgur.com/aXzGRJTh.jpg)
If you like fuel pressure problems and complete dog crap shifts......
LMS is the tuner for you!!!!!!!!!!!
The rest of us that actually like our SHO's run either AJPTurbo, Gearhead, or Ortiz tunes. They all use SCT devices, and they are proven to make MORE reliable power then the trash LMS puts out.
Quote from: bpd1151 on March 10, 2020, 05:23:14 PM
Steer clear of LMS.
Plenty of recent threads here as to why.
Do your homework. Buyer beware.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I'm Biased, but I would go AJP>GH>ORT>Bicycle ... Shop around on the hardware, it is all the same for the most part. Skip the intake until dead last, other than noise it has no appreciable differences.
For just a gas tune
--3-bar + .028. or 026 gapped plugs + tune will yield the best results (you will need to change plugs every 15k-20k FYI)
--Down-pipes/HFC > full exhaust > 3rd cat deletes would be the best progression after initial tuning IMO ..
after that once you are hooked depending on state a e20/25/30 tune is a good way to go that the dealership wont be able to see if you have any kind of warranty
after that gains are smaller and hard to perceive
Greetings from Nebraska.
Greg