I am coming up on my first oil change on my 2010 SHO. The manual says 5W20 every 7,500 miles. However, the service manager at Ford, who is a friend of a friend and therefore trustworthy, said use full synthetic every 5,000 miles. I plan on doing so. What brand of oil does everyone use? I read somewhere that there are only a few "true" synthetic oils on the market. I was going to stick with motorcraft full synthetic oil, but I am thinking something like Royal Purple might be better. While we're on the subject, what about oil filter? I change my own oil so price is not a factor. :thankyou:
Brad
I just picked up some VR-1 full synthetic racing oil from Jegs, I'm hoping this will stop any issues with running full E85 in my car next fillup. :)
I just use whatever Ford puts in.
Full Synthetic Motorcraft every 5K.
Motorcraft 5/30 synthetic blend and Motorcraft filter at 5000 mile intervals. I also do my own oil changes. If I took the car to the strip on a regular basis or had more aggressive mods than just the Livernois Stage 4, I would probably go full synthetic.
Royal Purple "HPS" (High Performance Street), 5W20, every 5K religiously.
Then I use the K&N High Performance Oil Filter HP-2011 I believe is the part number if I recall correctly.
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Royal purple, motorcraft oil filter.
I use semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w-20 (what Ford puts in) and a motorcraft filter (FL400S for my motor, FL500S for 2010+) every 6k miles or 6 months. I think its important to use the right weight oil so the VCT doesn't get messed up. Also important to change the oil and filter enough to keep the cam phasers from getting clogged.
In my 2000 Sable I used Mobil 1 High Milage 5w-30 and a FL820S Filter. That car had 140k on it when I sold it though.
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on July 23, 2013, 12:47:44 PM
I just picked up some VR-1 full synthetic racing oil from Jegs, I'm hoping this will stop any issues with running full E85 in my car next fillup. :)
Why run E85? I hate that stuff. Ethanol should be 0% unless you opt for it... I'll pay 15c more a gallon for 0%. My car hates ethanol. Its a good 4mpg difference for me between 0% versus 10%.
Quote from: breeves002 on July 23, 2013, 05:11:21 PM
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on July 23, 2013, 12:47:44 PM
I just picked up some VR-1 full synthetic racing oil from Jegs, I'm hoping this will stop any issues with running full E85 in my car next fillup. :)
Why run E85? I hate that stuff. Ethanol should be 0% unless you opt for it... I'll pay 15c more a gallon for 0%. My car hates ethanol. Its a good 4mpg difference for me between 0% versus 10%.
E85 + turbo = BIG POWER
:)
Lots of information already in our E85 performance forum
Somehow forgot that this was a performance forum. Of course it is because ethanol is easy octane... Hah. For normal driving E85 is crap.
Quote from: bpd1151 on July 23, 2013, 01:26:48 PM
Royal Purple "HPS" (High Performance Street), 5W20, every 5K religiously.
Then I use the K&N High Performance Oil Filter HP-2011 I believe is the part number if I recall correctly.
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^^^
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Purple and Ford Filter every 5K
I use Royal Purple 5W-20 and Royal Purple filter...I change every 3K. However, I will change every 6months if I don't put 3K on the car in 6 months. I will say that from what I understand Royal Purple, K&N, and Mobil One filters are all manufactured by the same company and are pretty much the same specs. Also, Ford changed oil requirements from 2011 up to 5W-30, and all extended discussions, I like Torrie's (Unleashed Tuning) input best...use the oil that Ford recommends for your engine....
I prefer vegetable; it doesn't allow food to burn to quickly and it has a really great taste!
Mark, I'm glad you said that. I kept thinkin' "Don't I use 5W30?"
Wonder why they changed the spec to 5w-30? Did they change the motor at all for the 2011 MY?
I don't think they changed the motor. But, mine came new with syn blend. We used to use 5W30 syn in cars that called for 5W20. They might have changed oil specs.
Interesting. I feel like you need to stick with the recommended weight so the VCT works correctly.
I have the prem maintainance plan, so I get the synblen eco oil.
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I know 2013 SHOs call out for 5W30 oil and not 5W20 oil that my Mustang and Escape use. Its a slight PIA because the local Wally world doesn't carry Motorcraft 5W30!
I might be the odd man out here, but a week after I bought the SHO I changed the oil to 0w-30 German Castrol, which is a group IV true synthetic with Motorcraft FL-500 filter. It might be in my head, but the engine runs so smooth, and very quiet (besides normal injector noise).
Running Motorcraft 5w20 Syn. Blend. Motorcraft filter.
Quote from: Scott13SHO on July 24, 2013, 12:53:43 PM
I know 2013 SHOs call out for 5W30 oil and not 5W20 oil that my Mustang and Escape use. Its a slight PIA because the local Wally world doesn't carry Motorcraft 5W30!
I've been able to find it in 1 quart bottles but I can only find the 5w-20 syn blend in the 5 quart bottles. Its a lot more expensive to buy 6 single quarts than a 5 quart. Oil pan capacity is 5.5qts, right? I just buy two 5qt jugs then slowly use one, use a new one, then a half quart from the other one lol.
Rotella T6 5W40 full syn with a Ford filter and I change it when the the clock says 50%. I like the way the engine feels smoother and quieter than the ford stuff. I changed the oil last time at the dealership using Ford 5W30 synthetic blend and I found the engine to be noisier. Needless to say I changed back to the Rotella.
Quote from: breeves002 on July 24, 2013, 02:05:58 PM
Quote from: Scott13SHO on July 24, 2013, 12:53:43 PM
I know 2013 SHOs call out for 5W30 oil and not 5W20 oil that my Mustang and Escape use. Its a slight PIA because the local Wally world doesn't carry Motorcraft 5W30!
I've been able to find it in 1 quart bottles but I can only find the 5w-20 syn blend in the 5 quart bottles. Its a lot more expensive to buy 6 single quarts than a 5 quart. Oil pan capacity is 5.5qts, right? I just buy two 5qt jugs then slowly use one, use a new one, then a half quart from the other one lol.
They changed the official capacity to 6 quarts for the Ecoboost. :)
Quote from: jcl78 on July 24, 2013, 05:26:56 PM
They changed the official capacity to 6 quarts for the Ecoboost. :)
Wow, good! The duratec has been able to hold 6 quarts since its inception, however they always have listed it as 5.5!
Quote from: adelsin on July 24, 2013, 05:26:02 AM
I have the prem maintainance plan, so I get the synblen eco oil.
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I pay for the difference of synthetic/dinosaur oil blend to full syn. Motorcraft with the Ford maint. plan, and I think the car is quieter/runs cooler with it. It makes me happy knowing I am running good stuff.
One change thus far (at 500 miles). I put in the Motorcraft synthetic blend that it came from the factory with (5w30 - 2013 Flex EB). Will probably do one more change with the blend at 1500 miles and then go to full synthetic Amsoil at 3000. Btw, you can get the Motorcraft 5w30 on Amazon if you can't find it locally.
I put Amsoil in my turbo Subaru and it still burns oil like crazy. It was not particularly well cared for early in its life (by me) since I didn't know enough about cars and turbo cars and turbo Subie's until I had owned it for several years. Probably will need to rebuild that motor in a few years.
The Subaru guys don't like Royal Purple that much and they really don't like Mobil 1 for turbo Subarus, but I'm not smart enough to give you the science behind that. I admit I just follow the crowd on mods and maintenance so that I can learn as I go. Fyi ... Rotella oil is very popular on that platform.
I guess the only real way to know what's going on with your oil is to have it tested...I'm going to send a sample of mine when I do my next oil change...I believe it is Blackstone Labs, and once I see the results, I will decide if I need to make any adjustments to the oil or the change intervals.
Please let us know what happens.
I will do that, but I still have almost a 1000 miles before AI need to change...so it may be 5 or 6 weeks until I change oil..
I talked to my mate who is service manager at Ford.
They use Mobile 1 for full synthetic. I'm switching to that next oil change. If I'm putting 93 octane in, I want full synthetic oil. I really like M1, used it in all my non-diesel vehicles.
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My dealer told me they use Motorcraft Synthetic. I have used Mobil1. It's good. So is Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic.
I've finally settled on Mobil One. Think I will stick with that for the time being.
Amsoil and motorcraft filters.
Mobil One 0w30 full syn.
I like mobil 1. It's on sale right now for $22.xx for 5 qts! CHEAP! Thinking of picking a few up just to have them. May switch to mobil 1 on this car. I used it in my 2000.
Amsoil
I switched to Mobile 1 synthetic 5W-30 after the first 1500 miles and pland to swap on 5k intervals for awhile until I get an oil sample tested. From the little I've seen over on bobs the oil guy the ecoboost motors are suffering from pretty heavy fuel dilution and that over 5000 per change could be pushing your luck.
For that reasoning, I wouldn't spend money on more expensive oils and if i wasn't getting good prices on mobile 1 i'd just run any of the decent syn. blends since 5k isn't hard on them. I've thought about running a lower weight oil just for easier starts, the multiple short trips i take, and improved cold weather starts. (0W-30 most likely)
Mobil-1 5w-30 Mobil-1 filter every 6k
Quote from: Tomc612 on July 28, 2013, 12:57:54 PM
I use amsoil 5w30 every 5k. Still very clean when I drain. ^-^
Now that would really bother me...if an oil still looks clean after 5K miles, it would put up a red flag for me that it's not doing a good job of absorbing the bad stuff produced by the engine. I know all the oils I have used over the past 15 years look really dirty after 3K miles...which, by my thinking indicates that they are removing the nasty stuff from the engine. Maybe if someone explains why an oil would still look clean after 5K miles, I would be more comfortable with it.
After considerable reading on a well-known oil review website, I decided to go with Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and a Purolator filter for the last oil change. With that being said, Mobil 1 is currently on sale at my local parts store. $32.99 for a 5-quart jug and a Mobil 1 oil filter. Add another $8-$9 for the sixth quart and that price is hard to beat. When I purchased the Pennzoil for the last change, they had a $10 mail-in-rebate going on. I just received it in the mail yesterday along with a $5 off coupon for my next Pennzoil purchase. If you're willing to bounce between a couple of brands, then you can save a little coin if you shop the specials at your local parts stores. Since I'm willing to use Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, it's almost guaranteed that at least one of them will be on sale at some point during my 4-5k mile interval.
I changed oil on my 2013 for the first time about a month ago and used 5w-30 Mobil 1 and an M1 filter, same as I use in my 2002 Corvette. Ran Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 in my 2010 and did a Blackstone Labs oil analysis before I traded it for the 2013. The oil had 5,660 miles on it and the analysis said it showed wear levels for around 4,100 miles. Plan on running about 6,000 mile changes on the 2013.
I am going in for my second change when I have the fuel module replaced next week. I use Motorcraft Full Syn and the Motorcraft filter. I used this on my 2011 Mustang and never burned a drop of oil in 27000 miles. I also use Mobil 1 and the Motorcraft filter after the first 12000 miles. I like to keep in all Ford until I feel the car is trouble free. I have been using Mobil 1 since 1978, including 4 years in Germany with a Mustang. Never a problem.
My local Ford dealer does the semi-synthethic oil change with filter for $38.00. That's about the same as I can buy the parts so they can do it.
This is my third unnaturally aspirated car and I firmly believe in changing oil more often. Every 3000 for me. Cheap insurance.
Anyone using pennzoil platinum? A lot of the euro guys have been using that and amsoil for their DI cars with great results. Mobil-1 is awesome in many cars but it sheers a lot in my current DI car, so most avoid it. I would be very curious to see an oil analysis for mobil-1 on the eco motors. If all is well with 5w-30 penz platinum is a great bang for your buck oil. I used to buy amsoil but its hard to come by around here and expensive by comparison.
I'm using Royal Purple 5w-20 (the recommended weight for 10's)and plan on having an analysis done when I do my next oil change.
Mark, you also putting in 6 quarts? Hmmmmm, don't remember hearing that the amount had been changed. gotta check my service receipts to make sure they have been putting in 6 quarts. Because if a dealer can screw up, it will generally be mine. The oil change guys are min. wage. Don't even know if they are certified in any way, or if they have to be.
Robert, yes, I am using 6 quarts...it doesn't show an overfill. I do my own oil changes just so I can be sure it's done right. I'm really anxious to get the analysis, but I still have about 800 miles to go before I change...and I change every 3K miles....just haven't been driving it much this summer, but that's because it hasn't went more then 3 days without rain! :(
6 quarts was perfect when I changed mine.
Quote from: mjhpadi on August 16, 2013, 12:22:21 AM
Robert, yes, I am using 6 quarts...it doesn't show an overfill. I do my own oil changes just so I can be sure it's done right. I'm really anxious to get the analysis, but I still have about 800 miles to go before I change...and I change every 3K miles....just haven't been driving it much this summer, but that's because it hasn't went more then 3 days without rain! :(
Hey, you can put on a Fumoto valve and drain what you need for testing whenever you need to.
Quote from: SoCalSHO on August 16, 2013, 01:16:54 PM
Quote from: mjhpadi on August 16, 2013, 12:22:21 AM
Robert, yes, I am using 6 quarts...it doesn't show an overfill. I do my own oil changes just so I can be sure it's done right. I'm really anxious to get the analysis, but I still have about 800 miles to go before I change...and I change every 3K miles....just haven't been driving it much this summer, but that's because it hasn't went more then 3 days without rain! :(
Hey, you can put on a Fumoto valve and drain what you need for testing whenever you need to.
Been there, done that, I have them on all our vehicles...takes more time to drain the oil, but sure makes changes easier and reduces the risk of stripping the plug or the pan.
I have a date tomorrow morning for oil; 6k on clock--having them swap to synthetic Mobil 1--given what I plan to do with car I want the best.
I'm also going to do an oil sample at 10k, or next oil change.
I use Red Line 5/30 w/ Motorcraft filter every 5k.
Been using Red Line for years in the Mustang and have been more than impressed.
I'm going to pick up some Penzoil Ultra today, great review for the oil with E85 and DI.
I really think that most of today's oils are good quality and will provide good protection and lubrication. I was always taught that regular changes are more important then the oil you use. (Not that I have always followed that...in my younger days, I wasn't much concerned about oil changes...money was tighter and more important things then making sure the oil was fresh). Although, I will say the debate seems to be how many miles between changes. My conclusion (at this point in life) is do whatever you are most comfortable with since most people don't have an analysis done with their oil.
Quote from: mjhpadi on July 28, 2013, 05:52:32 PM
Quote from: Tomc612 on July 28, 2013, 12:57:54 PM
I use amsoil 5w30 every 5k. Still very clean when I drain. ^-^
Now that would really bother me...if an oil still looks clean after 5K miles, it would put up a red flag for me that it's not doing a good job of absorbing the bad stuff produced by the engine. I know all the oils I have used over the past 15 years look really dirty after 3K miles...which, by my thinking indicates that they are removing the nasty stuff from the engine. Maybe if someone explains why an oil would still look clean after 5K miles, I would be more comfortable with it.
Did you ever get a response to this? I'm terribly curious to know what's better, clean or dirty oil at the change interval. I see what you're saying about it maybe not removing as much dirt...but I guess my thought on it was that if it still looks clean when it comes out, it hasn't degraded as much while it was in there to give it that dark, burnt color.
***Thread Resurrection FTW!!***
Quote from: 4DRHTRD on August 18, 2013, 11:46:23 AM
I'm going to pick up some Pennzoil Ultra today, great review for the oil with E85 and DI.
I used this in my Fusion with a K&N filter. Thinking of using the same combo in the SHO this Spring when I do my 10K.
I did get the results from my oil anaylsis...several months ago. It was an eye opener. Based on the anaylsis I am going to go to 5K oil changes. Seems that the better quality of today's oil can go for more miles and longer time before needing change. Blackstone Labs recommended extending my oil change interval because the oil was in great shape at 3K changes.
mjhpadi;
Very interesting. That's great to know.
Did you ever hear any word on whether "dirty" or "clean" looking oil is better to see during a change?
I also use Royal Purple HPS 5w30 and I use a Motorcraft filter. I'm a big fan of high ZDDP content oil.
I use Rotella T-Syn 5w40 in my Mustang. Also high ZDDP and comes from a better base oil than most other oils.
I thought about just running the Rotella in the SHO but wasn't sure with using a 40 weight. I did use it in my Subaru and Mazdaspeed 3 so I guess I might as well. I may just use it in both on my next change.
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Shell Rotella T6 5w40 technical data sheet:
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140002468994_3F6.pdf (http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140002468994_3F6.pdf)
Royal Purple Full Synthetic Motor Oil data sheet:
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_API_MotorOIl.pdf (http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_API_MotorOIl.pdf)
Considering that when the SHO came out they recomended 20w oil, and then switched to 30w oil, would 40w be too thick? I used Rotella in my mazdaspeed3 as well. Its cost, availability, and superior performance over much more expensive oils makes it a no brainer in my book. IF we can use it that is.
Depends on the individual viscosity at the temperatures you are likely to face, along with the inclusion of additives of "old" (ZDDP) which typically are found in higher concentrations in "High Mileage" oils.
Motorcraft quick specs on Synblend and Synthetic oils:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%205W30%20Premium%20Synthetic.pdf (https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%205W30%20Premium%20Synthetic.pdf)
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%205W30%20Full%20Synthetic.pdf (https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%205W30%20Full%20Synthetic.pdf)
Amsoil Tech Specs & MSDS:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf (http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf)
http://www.amsoil.com/msds/alm.pdf (http://www.amsoil.com/msds/alm.pdf)
Valvoline SynPower full synthetic 5w 20
https://valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/5
I change at 5000 miles
Quote from: Joleat on July 31, 2013, 01:25:53 AM
After considerable reading on a well-known oil review website, I decided to go with Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and a Purolator filter for the last oil change. With that being said, Mobil 1 is currently on sale at my local parts store. $32.99 for a 5-quart jug and a Mobil 1 oil filter. Add another $8-$9 for the sixth quart and that price is hard to beat. When I purchased the Pennzoil for the last change, they had a $10 mail-in-rebate going on. I just received it in the mail yesterday along with a $5 off coupon for my next Pennzoil purchase. If you're willing to bounce between a couple of brands, then you can save a little coin if you shop the specials at your local parts stores. Since I'm willing to use Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra, it's almost guaranteed that at least one of them will be on sale at some point during my 4-5k mile interval.
I know, I'm quoting myself, haha.
Pennzoil currently has a $10 mail-in-rebate on their website. I plan to take advantage of that by purchasing some Ultra later today. If any of you saw my recent "1-2 second knock at startup" thread, I just wanted to point out that I will be using a Motorcraft filter instead of my usual Purolator PureOne this time around. I'll update the knock thread once I've had an opportunity to change the oil.
Quote from: JimiJak on March 06, 2014, 02:00:13 AM
mjhpadi;
Very interesting. That's great to know.
Did you ever hear any word on whether "dirty" or "clean" looking oil is better to see during a change?
You know I have not heard, however, I will stay with what I was told in college in my diesel mechanic class, that oil should turn darker as it absorbs more of the gunk that is generated by the engine. Which makes sense, if it is true that oil doesn't really lose it's lubricating properties, but the reason that it needs changed is because it gets contaminated with the stuff generated by the engine. And as it gets saturated with contaminates it loses it's ability to hold them in suspension. That being said, it seems to be consistent with what Blackstone Labs told me that today's oils are of higher quality and thus has the ability to absorb more, hence last longer.
My oil gets very black after just 3000 miles and, like you Mark, I have always been told that is desirable and proof that contaminants are being suspended. I use the OEM Motorcraft synthetic blend and change at 5000. Just looking down inside the valve cover, through the oil opening, it appears to be super clean after 46,000 miles.
Does the 3.5 EB use cartridge type filters? Or good ol spin on?
And does the drain plug utilize a crush type washer to seal? Or just fasten to seal, or have a gasket on the plug?
I run Rotella in my old pickup - 350ci with original flat tappets. Supposedly the zinc content is high in Rotella, simulating older motor oils. Though, I've never had an analysis performed.
Seems Shell Rotella is a popular oil among many communities and platforms.
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Spin-on filter. Since I only change oil in Spring and Fall, I can't remember how the plug seals. I recall that it seems long and has a lot of threads compared to most oil drain plugs.
I
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on March 06, 2014, 02:59:27 PM
Does the 3.5 EB use cartridge type filters? Or good ol spin on?
And does the drain plug utilize a crush type washer to seal? Or just fasten to seal, or have a gasket on the plug?
I think it has an o-ring but I can't remember exactly because I replaced mine with the Fumoto drain valve when I did my first oil change.
[/quote]
I run Rotella in my old pickup - 350ci with original flat tappets. Supposedly the zinc content is high in Rotella, simulating older motor oils. Though, I've never had an analysis performed.
Seems Shell Rotella is a popular oil among many communities and platforms.
[/quote]
Having the analysis done was the some of the best money I spent...Blackstone Labs sends you the kit to collect the oil and to mail it, and it's only 25 dollars. They are also good at answering any questions you might have when you receive the results. Without checking I believe that Royal Purple also had high zinc levels, because it is one of the things they use as an additive.
I visited three auto parts stores earlier this evening and there wasn't a bottle of 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra to be found. I ended up grabbing some Castrol Edge 5w30. I've never used it before, but I've heard it is extremely comparable to Pennzoil Ultra and Mobil 1. If I were tracking my car, I would have a little more concern. For a 5,000 mile interval, any high quality full-synthetic is more than adequate. The filter is where I think more attention is warranted. Say no to the orange can!
I agree. Today, I was thinking of just sticking with the Motorcraft filter. I do hope I can find the Ultra though.
At my super great Ford dealer in Republic Missouri they take care of the oil & filter changes! Standard semi synthetic changed EVERY 3k miles. Thanks Kris for your awesome service!! ;)
I use SAE 5W-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil with a M1-212 or K&N HP-211 with 6qts every 5000.
(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc404/tomc612/ASL_zpsa73163f3.jpg)
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2fasl.aspx (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2fasl.aspx)
Quote from: Tomc612 on March 09, 2014, 09:47:23 PM
I use SAE 5W-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil with a M1-212 or K&N HP-211 with 6qts every 5000.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASLQT-EA&zo=1667299.jpg (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASLQT-EA&zo=1667299.jpg)
I have the same oil in my Explorer Sport...
Im going to put 6000-7000 miles on it and pull a sample for Oil Analysis.
I'll post the results here when I do. The Steelership service dept oil failed it sheard its self out of grade.
Wow, that's not good, FPO. Do you have an OA for the Steelership oil?
EDIT: Never mind, found it:
http://ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3890.msg60954.html#msg60954 (http://ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3890.msg60954.html#msg60954)
Quote from: FPO on November 19, 2014, 12:59:16 AM
Quote from: Tomc612 on March 09, 2014, 09:47:23 PM
I use SAE 5W-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil with a M1-212 or K&N HP-211 with 6qts every 5000.
[img width=147 height=300]http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASLQT-EA&zo=1667299.jpg[/url]
The Steelership service dept oil failed it sheard its self out of grade.
That's pretty common with GDI engines.
It isn't advisable to extend intervals, unless miles are mostly highway cruising.
Right now, running Motul 5W 30 in the SHO, with a Mobil1 filter. Will be performing LOF in the coming weeks, and shipping off the Motul, with about 5K miles on it, for UOA, along with a bout an 8K miles sample of Castol Edge 0 weight from my GDI CX-5.
Will be refilling with Motul again, but with an Amsoil filter this time.
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Cool, looking forward to it! Is it fuel dilution of the oil causing the oil to fail?
It contributes heavily to viscosity losses. Really, shearing may not be the correct terminology. Shearing occurs from VI modifiers breaking down over time, through regular use. Fuel dilution is exactly as it sounds - oil diluted with gasoline. It's the same effect, but slightly different causes.
It's a problem most significantly on GDI engines which see short operating durarions, seldom reaching full operating temp and such.
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Quote from: mjhpadi on July 28, 2013, 05:52:32 PM
Quote from: Tomc612 on July 28, 2013, 12:57:54 PM
I use amsoil 5w30 every 5k. Still very clean when I drain. ^-^
Now that would really bother me...if an oil still looks clean after 5K miles, it would put up a red flag for me that it's not doing a good job of absorbing the bad stuff produced by the engine. I know all the oils I have used over the past 15 years look really dirty after 3K miles...which, by my thinking indicates that they are removing the nasty stuff from the engine. Maybe if someone explains why an oil would still look clean after 5K miles, I would be more comfortable with it.
Don't know the answer for sure but I'm going to take a shot at saying that the "dirty oil" results from the oil breaking down. The bad stuff the engine produces is broken down oil so if it comes out clean it isn't breaking down.
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on November 19, 2014, 10:05:18 AM
It contributes heavily to viscosity losses. Really, shearing may not be the correct terminology. Shearing occurs from VI modifiers breaking down over time, through regular use. Fuel dilution is exactly as it sounds - oil diluted with gasoline. It's the same effect, but slightly different causes.
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Yes I typed that wrong... Im used to talking about motorcraft oil shearing "like the 5/50 used in the gt500"
too much fuel in the oil... but what gets me , you can set the OCI light to come on at 5k, 7500 or 10 K
that is way too far... I will use my next sample to decide how long to run mine for.
in my other Fords they get a yearly oil change.
MC filters are among the best for performance/price. One of the few exceptions is in glock-coma's case, where (I think) he finds a Fram filter to run better than the MC.
Quote from: SHOdded on November 20, 2014, 02:05:03 PM
MC filters are among the best for performance/price. One of the few exceptions is in glock-coma's case, where (I think) he finds a Fram filter to run better than the MC.
This seems to be the case for me. At every startup I would get a very faint and quick "chatter ", now that I switched to fram ultra I have not heard it. And yes, I do listen for it on every startup.
2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+boost 3bar
more to come.....
For me its the MC-FL500S all the way with a magnetic oil drain plug to collect any metal shavings or particles thats being distributed.
Quote from: ZSHO on November 20, 2014, 10:16:07 PM
For me its the MC-FL500S all the way with a magnetic oil drain plug to collect any metal shavings or particles thats being distributed.
That magnetic drain plug just went on the short list. Sounds like a good thing to be able to monitor.
Mobil 5w/30 full syn with MC filter at 5k intervals.
Rich
Mobil 1 5W/20 full synthetic and Motorcraft filter every 5K miles.
Quote from: breeves002 on July 23, 2013, 05:10:09 PM
I use semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w-20 (what Ford puts in) and a motorcraft filter (FL400S for my motor, FL500S for 2010+) every 6k miles or 6 months. I think its important to use the right weight oil so the VCT doesn't get messed up. Also important to change the oil and filter enough to keep the cam phasers from getting clogged.
In my 2000 Sable I used Mobil 1 High Milage 5w-30 and a FL820S Filter. That car had 140k on it when I sold it though.
Quote from: thatsmrgimp2u on August 15, 2013, 10:21:45 PM
Anyone using pennzoil platinum? A lot of the euro guys have been using that and amsoil for their DI cars with great results. Mobil-1 is awesome in many cars but it sheers a lot in my current DI car, so most avoid it. I would be very curious to see an oil analysis for mobil-1 on the eco motors. If all is well with 5w-30 penz platinum is a great bang for your buck oil. I used to buy amsoil but its hard to come by around here and expensive by comparison.
I'm using pennzoil Plat not sure what weight whatever says in my manual. Should I be using 30? It performs the same or better then mobil1 in the cold start department so far. I did just receive my test kit in mail will my ford dealer fill the bottle for me ?
Everybody has a "favorite" oil, just like everyone has a favorite cell phone or wireless carrier.
it's a heated subject.
But Synthetic oils have a lot more to offer than regular conventional oil.
Since most of us are in Winter.
here Is a science project I did
Cold pour between Rotella and AMSOIL 15/40 heavy duty diesel oil. (I put the AMSOIL in a regular bottle with same size opening ) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/116041405)
Interesting Vid...
I'm a fan of Amsoil Signature synthetic engine oil (5W20)... All synthetics seen to lubricate and flow well. All are pretty good. My choice was base on the three areas where Amsoil simply eclipse the others in testing: (1) extremely low NOACK volatility rating, which is very important in GDI with turbo, (2) the off the scale resistance to high temp shear, and (3) the Amsoil synthetic also has the lowest cold cranking viscosity despite best high temp lubrication, so it circulates well very early. Yep I do pay more...my car is worth it to me and I change oil and filter every 4-5K miles despite Amsoil's claim that it can go as much as 20K.
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 11:54:52 AM
Interesting Vid...
I'm a fan of Amsoil Signature synthetic engine oil (5W20)... All synthetics seen to lubricate and flow well. All are pretty good. My choice was base on the three areas where Amsoil simply eclipse the others in testing: (1) extremely low NOACK volatility rating, which is very important in GDI with turbo, (2) the off the scale resistance to high temp shear, and (3) the Amsoil synthetic also has the lowest cold cranking viscosity despite best high temp lubrication, so it circulates well very early. Yep I do pay more...my car is worth it to me and I change oil and filter every 4-5K miles despite Amsoil's claim that it can go as much as 20K.
I couldn't Agree more.
I know no matter what oil I use I will not get the 1 year 20,000 mile oil change interval that I get on my Mustang Gt, but I still want to use premium oils in the Explorer.
I am going to do some oil analysis to see Exactly how many miles I need to change the oil. There is not a lot that can be done, Besides choosing oils that Resist the effects of fuel dilution.
I may use this oil next go round
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=176&zo=1667299 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=176&zo=1667299)
It has a 5.3 NOACK Volatility,
Quote from: FPO on January 09, 2015, 12:35:02 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 11:54:52 AM
Interesting Vid...
I'm a fan of Amsoil Signature synthetic engine oil (5W20)... All synthetics seen to lubricate and flow well. All are pretty good. My choice was base on the three areas where Amsoil simply eclipse the others in testing: (1) extremely low NOACK volatility rating, which is very important in GDI with turbo, (2) the off the scale resistance to high temp shear, and (3) the Amsoil synthetic also has the lowest cold cranking viscosity despite best high temp lubrication, so it circulates well very early. Yep I do pay more...my car is worth it to me and I change oil and filter every 4-5K miles despite Amsoil's claim that it can go as much as 20K.
I couldn't Agree more.
I know no matter what oil I use I will not get the 1 year 20,000 mile oil change interval that I get on my Mustang Gt, but I still want to use premium oils in the Explorer.
I am going to do some oil analysis to see Exactly how many miles I need to change the oil. There is not a lot that can be done, Besides choosing oils that Resist the effects of fuel dilution.
I may use this oil next go round
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=176&zo=1667299 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=176&zo=1667299)
It has a 5.3 NOACK Volatility,
I would never recommend using other than the recommended oil weight called for by the manufacturer... but the Amsoil Signature synthetic 5W20 has a 2.7 NOACK volatility and the 5W30 has a 3.1
Does the SHO call for a 20 weight oil?
My explorer calls for a 30
Quote from: FPO on January 09, 2015, 04:48:41 PM
Does the SHO call for a 20 weight oil?
My explorer calls for a 30
I believe it depends on the year... '13+ I know calls for 5W20
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 01:35:00 PM
I would never recommend using other than the recommended oil weight called for by the manufacturer... but the Amsoil Signature synthetic 5W20 has a 2.7 NOACK volatility and the 5W30 has a 3.1
you mean 6.3 -----> http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=10049&&zo=1667299 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=10049&&zo=1667299)
and
7.5 ? -----> http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=174&zo=1667299 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=174&zo=1667299)
Quote from: FPO on January 09, 2015, 04:53:08 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 01:35:00 PM
I would never recommend using other than the recommended oil weight called for by the manufacturer... but the Amsoil Signature synthetic 5W20 has a 2.7 NOACK volatility and the 5W30 has a 3.1
you mean 6.3 -----> http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=10049&&zo=1667299 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=10049&&zo=1667299)
and
7.5 ? -----> http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=174&zo=1667299 (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=174&zo=1667299)
interesting and I will stand corrected!... but stay with the ASS oil (hehe)... I can actually find NOACK results throughout the range we both quoted, and I could be misreading from going fast... but when it was head to testing it was still the lowest... weird... I noticed that weight affects it of course... Oh Well, anyway I am a converted royal purple guy as far as engine oil
My 13' sho calls for 5w-30... Mac are you sure about yours? (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/09/52a2ea3198ed54a3537d9a4910518647.jpg)
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 04:49:55 PM
Quote from: FPO on January 09, 2015, 04:48:41 PM
Does the SHO call for a 20 weight oil?
My explorer calls for a 30
I believe it depends on the year... '13+ I know calls for 5W20
The oil weight(s) did change in relation to model year(s).
I forgot when the switch over occurred.
Early models (including mine) call for the 5W/20.
Later models are rock'n the 5W/30.
Quote from: bpd1151 on January 09, 2015, 07:30:52 PM
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 04:49:55 PM
Quote from: FPO on January 09, 2015, 04:48:41 PM
Does the SHO call for a 20 weight oil?
My explorer calls for a 30
I believe it depends on the year... '13+ I know calls for 5W20
The oil weight(s) did change in relation to model year(s).
I forgot when the switch over occurred.
Early models (including mine) call for the 5W/20.
Later models are rock'n the 5W/30.
Mike is correct..pardon my fat fingers!
I am pretty sure the transition over to 5w-30 started in 2013,depending the build date,mine was on 11/12 and has 5w-30 oil cap,earlier build date probably have 5w-20,correct me if im wrong.
Build date of 2/11...5w30
Last time at dealer buying "specialty green" coolant. Parts guy confirmed with the sheet that 7/11 build was change from specialty green to ....I think the orange stuff
Rich
Quote from: BiGMaC on January 09, 2015, 05:46:09 PM
interesting and I will stand corrected!... but stay with the ASS oil (hehe)... I can actually find NOACK results throughout the range we both quoted, and I could be misreading from going fast... but when it was head to testing it was still the lowest... weird... I noticed that weight affects it of course... Oh Well, anyway I am a converted royal purple guy as far as engine oil
Glad you Converted.
I liked their stuff so much I became a dealer ( I knew it was different *better* after a 30 min ride my motorcycle)
Quote from: SHOnUup on January 09, 2015, 09:08:05 PM
Build date of 2/11...5w30
Last time at dealer buying "specialty green" coolant. Parts guy confirmed with the sheet that 7/11 build was change from specialty green to ....I think the orange stuff
Rich
What? Lol I just got my coolant replaced it's the green stuff(2010 sho). I'm pretty sure my oil cap says 5w20. I found it weird the Shelby has the orange coolant but we have specialty green stuff.
Every major oil company makes a pretty good case given the claimed tech devolopments. Like Castrol has some crazy nanotechnology stuff that was very interesting. Pennzoil ultra platinum is the purest oil you can buy given its made from natural gas and has extraordinary wear protection.
Does anyone have any good comprehensive testing on all the top types of oils?
Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
I'm using the Pennzoil Platinum plus in my ex, my last oil change I did I just switched over to it from the dealer oil. I'm at 30k now
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Quote from: curry67 on January 09, 2015, 11:24:50 PM
Quote from: SHOnUup on January 09, 2015, 09:08:05 PM
Build date of 2/11...5w30
Last time at dealer buying "specialty green" coolant. Parts guy confirmed with the sheet that 7/11 build was change from specialty green to ....I think the orange stuff
Rich
What? Lol I just got my coolant replaced it's the green stuff(2010 sho). I'm pretty sure my oil cap says 5w20. I found it weird the Shelby has the orange coolant but we have specialty green stuff.
Every major oil company makes a pretty good case given the claimed tech devolopments. Like Castrol has some crazy nanotechnology stuff that was very interesting. Pennzoil ultra platinum is the purest oil you can buy given its made from natural gas and has extraordinary wear protection.
Does anyone have any good comprehensive testing on all the top types of oils?
Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
After 7/11 was orange (think it's orange)...before was the specialty green
Rich
So should I be using orange? And w30?
I have a sample of Mobil 1 full syn 5/30 with 5k on it. In process of putting 5k on Mobil 1 full syn extended...then maybe the amsoil after?
Rich
Shaking up my oil choices completely...
Currently, running Castrol Edge in my Mazda, and with a pretty lengthy OCI, based on favorable UOA. It is a good oil. However, for the sake of streamlining my NOS oil inventory, I am switching both the SHO and the Mazda to Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus. Already running it in the Dodge with good results.
Going to polish off the rest of the Motul 8100 I have for the SHO first though. Hope to LOF the SHO ASAP.
As for the classics - been using pretty standard Pennzoil dino oil in them, plus a bottle of this pretty costly zinc additive.
Going to move both to Lucas Oil Classic Car formula for their next LOF. Just gotta polish off the remaining Pennzoil and last bottle of that additive and I'll make the swap.
Quote from: curry67 on January 10, 2015, 12:10:25 AM
So should I be using orange? And w30?
Don't change the type of coolant you are running. You can try running the 5w30 see how it suits your SHO. Might lose a bit of mpg and cold weather starting capability depending on viscosity properties, so be sure to check data sheets for equivalency. I would first try the change in spring/summertime, less risk to the engine.
You have to follow vehicles spec's cocerning oil and fluids,if your vehicle takes dot 4 brake fluid,why should i put dot 3, Always refer to your owners manuel,if you dont have one,go to the internet and download it and typing your vin,even easier look inside your engine,there are some useful diagrams and spec requirements there,while your there go with the flow and top off the proper fluids for the cold winter,she will love you more,Lol.
I have always used Redline oil in my car,have about ten free oil change vouchers at the dealer,so basically after the dealer changes the oil.would wait about 500 miles and would switch over to Redline,helps get rid of any contaminents left behind,my wife bought a case of Royal purple hps for Christmas and its sitting in my shelf,its not api certified.
Quote from: curry67 on January 10, 2015, 12:10:25 AM
So should I be using orange? And w30?
Green and 5w20 sounds right
Rich
Just be sure to stay with the color of coolant/antifreeze that came in the car. The mixing of green and red creates acids to eat you aluminum engine... most article say you can't clean it (coolant/antifreeze) all out of a cooling system while it's still on the car.
Quote from: ZSHO on January 10, 2015, 08:12:49 AM
I have always used Redline oil in my car,have about ten free oil change vouchers at the dealer,so basically after the dealer changes the oil.would wait about 500 miles and would switch over to Redline,helps get rid of any contaminents left behind,my wife bought a case of Royal purple hps for Christmas and its sitting in my shelf,its not api certified.
I'll buy it from you if you don't want it. Shipping might be the killer though.
Turbocharged Directinjection Is Engine Oil's Next Big Hurdle (an industry article, i.e., tread cautiously):
http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turbocharged%20Direct%20Injection%20Is%20Engine%20Oils%20Next%20Big%20Hurdle.pdf (http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turbocharged%20Direct%20Injection%20Is%20Engine%20Oils%20Next%20Big%20Hurdle.pdf)
Thanks, good read!
Thanks Manu.. quick and informative.
The article also points out a problem inherent to the GDI engine; low speed preignition. And i mean low engine speed. We all fight this, and it's why i always try to give enough throttle to shift the tranny
Giving a little extra throttle may not be great for mileage, but great for engine life. That's it! I am driving like a bat outta hell from now on, mpg be d***ed :D
^^^that makes me laugh.
Rich
Quote from: SHOdded on January 10, 2015, 07:58:44 PM
Turbocharged Directinjection Is Engine Oil's Next Big Hurdle (an industry article, i.e., tread cautiously):
http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turbocharged%20Direct%20Injection%20Is%20Engine%20Oils%20Next%20Big%20Hurdle.pdf (http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turbocharged%20Direct%20Injection%20Is%20Engine%20Oils%20Next%20Big%20Hurdle.pdf)
Good read . One thing I noticed, the forced induction crowd is a lot more interested in talking to me About AMSOIL than ,other groups.
Well if you understand what stresses are put on your engine oil in a turbocharger. It's easy to understand the importance of using quality oil. Synthetic major quality for me was it's resistance to high temp thermal brake down and it's sheering resistance. That ties into it's cold weather performance and so much other other stuff.
I have never used amsoil. Though maybe used next time. I generally buy what ever oil and filter special has the best price and filter combo. Last two oil changes have been royal purple. The first change was full syn factory oil. Don't remember the exact miles. But under 1500. I like to flush the break in oil out pretty soon. Plus the car had been on dealers lots for almost at year.
I wish there was a good modern oil test. Using all the current top top tier oils.
Always curious about European oils.
I agree. It's hard to compare all oils in the same time frame. I wish there was a database of oil tests.
I'd like to know what effects meth injection has on oil life. I know my oil has been quite dirty on the first two oil changes since meth but now it's stabilized after the 3rd oil change in 6k miles.
Looks like it cleaned out the gunk on the intake side :) Time for a closer examination?
I've got about 7500 miles on this interval, on Motul 8100. Going to be an interesting UOA.
Would be very curious on the uoa of Motul. If I remember I'll get one for my royal purple.
Red line was a favorite in the Audi community. But it seems the few tests I've seen it in. It wasn't really worth it. I'm torn between German Castrol, Amsoil, pens ultra, and some version of liquimoli. LM has a product specifically for Ford motors and then other blends based on want and needs such as thermal,flow and other data points
Quote from: panther427 on January 11, 2015, 09:19:20 PM
I wish there was a good modern oil test. Using all the current top top tier oils.
Here is the last one that I have ASTM testing methods used
Quote from: FPO on January 15, 2015, 02:28:24 PM
Quote from: panther427 on January 11, 2015, 09:19:20 PM
I wish there was a good modern oil test. Using all the current top top tier oils.
Here is the last one that I have ASTM testing methods used
I need to order oil and tranny fluid.
What do I need to do to purchase from you?
Quote from: wasinger3000 on January 12, 2015, 01:43:53 AM
I agree. It's hard to compare all oils in the same time frame. I wish there was a database of oil tests.
I'd like to know what effects meth injection has on oil life. I know my oil has been quite dirty on the first two oil changes since meth but now it's stabilized after the 3rd oil change in 6k miles.
Wasinger, you need to get a UOA kit from amsoil and send it out to blackstone. UOA = Used oil analysis.
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on March 03, 2015, 01:06:19 PM
Quote from: FPO on January 15, 2015, 02:28:24 PM
Quote from: panther427 on January 11, 2015, 09:19:20 PM
I wish there was a good modern oil test. Using all the current top top tier oils.
Here is the last one that I have ASTM testing methods used
I need to order oil and tranny fluid.
What do I need to do to purchase from you?
If you get a preferred customer membership from amsoil you get whole sale pricing. That's what I do and it's worth it and pays for itself. I order a couple times a year but I have 4 cars in the household
Quote from: ajpturbo on March 03, 2015, 01:56:55 PM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on March 03, 2015, 01:06:19 PM
Quote from: FPO on January 15, 2015, 02:28:24 PM
Quote from: panther427 on January 11, 2015, 09:19:20 PM
I wish there was a good modern oil test. Using all the current top top tier oils.
Here is the last one that I have ASTM testing methods used
I need to order oil and tranny fluid.
What do I need to do to purchase from you?
If you get a preferred customer membership from amsoil you get whole sale pricing. That's what I do and it's worth it and pays for itself. I order a couple times a year but I have 4 cars in the household
Yeah, I've been doing that but I prefer to support vendors and members whenever possible.
Quote from: EcoPowerParts on July 23, 2013, 12:47:44 PM
I just picked up some VR-1 full synthetic racing oil from Jegs, I'm hoping this will stop any issues with running full E85 in my car next fillup. :)
I put e85 in my flex fuel explorer 3 fill ups ago, check engine light been on since. Hell no, I won't put that corn in my non ethanol SHO.