Here's the back story, I've had three Daytime BrightLite modules fail in under 3 years. Two hyper flashed the turn signals right out of the box, they work fine key on/engine off at 12.3v. They hyper flash with key on/engine running 14.1volts. I need to bring my good equipment home to check to see what the current is on the two supply voltage wires and if there's a difference between KOEO and KOER. One supply is protected by a 5amp fuse the other by a 10amp fuse, but my bet is that the issue effecting the module is voltage related to one or both supply wires.
I sent an email to Dan at DBL, and I'm sure he'll send me a new module, but it seems to be a common problem. I'm looking for a good way to change the KOER voltage/amperage to mirror KOEO. Any of you guys good with DC electrical circuits? I'd like to think I can run a resistor/multiple resistors to drop the supply voltage from 14.1v to the 12v range, but I don't want to create too much heat or make drastic changes to the supply amperage (the supply taps are both contained within the under hood fuse box).
Toss me a bone if you have some suggestions, I just spent a couple hours in a 95 degree garage with about 90% humidity so my brain isn't quite right at the moment.
So you only want to drop two volts? Any resistor you use will create heat as that is how the voltage is dropped. Are you wanting it rated at the full 10amps? The amperage shouldn't drop but the voltage will across the resistor. I just got an eichan one from Napa to drop from 12volts to 6volts for an ignition coil on an old welder/generator. Have you tried to get one of the resistors to stop hyperflash on led turn signals? Also is the kit 24 watts of leds per side of 24 watts total? This is a good site to explain the resistor required. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Dropping_Resistor_Calc.html (http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Dropping_Resistor_Calc.html)
Good luck. Also are those things as cool as they look with the integrated turn signal?
Sbouvia, they look really good with good color (around 6000k on the white, and a deep bright amber). When they work, it's a great thing, but there's been a bug in the module for the three years I've had mine. I've installed three to date and waiting on a 4th. The first and third had a few differences, but they both hyper flashed in turn/hazard mode with the engine running right out of the box but worked fine with KOEO. Dan did ship the replacement for the first instantly. I did some amp reading.KOEO and KOER amp readings were nearly identical. The 5 amp protected circuit was running 136-140ma w/ the turn signal on, 10 amp protected circuit was 132-136ma. Fluke 87 meter min/max setting to capture.
Just a heads up, the tune is setup to run 14V for just a short while after startup. After a set amount of time then voltage setpoint drops to 13.3V Can't remember the exact time frame...but I can look it up if you want. Ford does this to replenish the battery after a start...then it drops it down to reduce parasitic drain on the engine I reckon.
The alternator will actually vary voltage all the time you want a power regulator if you want 12V constant:
https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Voltage-Stabilizer-6A-Regulator/dp/B072FHHTZ3 (https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Voltage-Stabilizer-6A-Regulator/dp/B072FHHTZ3)
Still waiting for a response from Dan at Daytime BrightLite. The module uses two B+ inputs, constant and switched. I'm betting there's something built into the module made to control the voltage (like our PCM does with the 5v ref circuits) that isn't doing it's job. EPP, that regulator might be a viable option.