Originally posted by glock-comaChanged PTU fluid
#1
04-23-2013, 02:23 PM
I changed my PTU fluid this past weekend.
26,000 miles, It looked pretty bad. Replaced it with redline 75-w140.
Here's some pics.
I accessed the fill plug through the passenger side wheel well.
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14725;image)
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14727;image)
I used an impact driver with some 3/8" extension bars connected together
To remove/install the plug
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14729;image)
PTU fluid at 26,000 miles. I was only able to remove about 13oz via oil extractor.
The cover plate must be pretty close to the gears. There was very little room to maneuver the siphon hose.
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14731;image)
When I do this again, I'll do it from underneath the car. Seems to be enough access.
You can see the plug with the red thread sealant.
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14733;image)
Here's a pic of the PTU part number.
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14735;image)
Quote04-23-2013, 10:00 PM
Originally posted by interceptor View Post
What does Ford recommend for a change interval? 100k? Hard to believe if it looks that bad after 26k.
According to ford it's a "lifetime fluid". I would guess that means factory warranty + 1 mile.
The fords repair manual it says it only needs to be changed if contaminated.
04-26-2013, 06:45 AM
I found this over @fordflex.net
"By the way fresh Motorcraft synthetic 75W-140 fluid is clear and it pours easily even when cold."
http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9334 (http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9334)
04-27-2013, 12:40 PM
Here's the product data sheet.
It's $31.76 per quart from amazon.......it better be good
(http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1706.0;attach=14737;image)
Last edited by glock-coma; 04-27-2013, 12:44 PM.
Some additional info:
04-03-2013, 03:15 PM by racerx78
The PTU fluid is a 75w-140 GL5.
04-03-2013, 03:37 PM by Crash712us
Mighty mini vac with brake bleed kit is what I did.
04-03-2013, 03:46 PM by 83racecrew
It (Mityvac) puts a reservoir in front of the vac so you don't suck the fluid into the vac.
Like this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22973737-P_x_x (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22973737-P_x_x)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mityvac-automotive-brake-bleeding-kit-mitmv8020/22973737-P (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mityvac-automotive-brake-bleeding-kit-mitmv8020/22973737-P)
The fluid ends up in that little reservoir, before it would enter into the vacuum pump.
04-03-2013, 03:55 PM by Crash712us
Thank you racecrew. Here is a link of what you need.
Check this out on AMZN: OEM 25136 Vacuum Pump http://amzn.com/B000CMDPBM (http://amzn.com/B000CMDPBM)
04-03-2013, 06:26 PM by pacoflyer
What is the best method to get at the fill plug on the PTU? I hear removing RF wheel and inner fender? Is this correct?
04-03-2013, 06:32 PM by Crash712us
Paco either one will work brake bleeder kit isn't need for these pumps to suck out PTU. But the problem I do see with these is they are large, and you already said you don't have a lift or jack stands. The car will need to be level so not to over fill PTU, I did mine with the small hand pump as in the amazon link above. I had to empty the cup a couple times in my oil drain pan as it only holds about 8oz. I also had the car level on 4 jack stands. As for tool I don't remember the size of hex plug in PTU but use a couple 3/8" 9" extensions and ratchet and that gave me plenty of room to wrench the plug as my ratchet was just inside the passenger front wheel.
04-06-2013, 08:15 AM by Crash712us
QuoteOriginally posted by bpd1151 View Post
What you guys are forgetting, is that the purchase of your pump, or vacuum contraption, or what have you......
That item alone is a one time cost.
Fluid ran me like $16 for the Royal Purple.
So your initial costs may be higher than desired, however, the long term benefit will be that you can perform this fluid swap whenever you chose to, from that point forward, and really only be out let's say $20 for fluid on the high end.
crash712us did his in his garage, so although having a lift would make it obviously a helluva lot easier, it's certainly not necessary.
Yes a lift would have made much easier, in fact not having a lift was the hardest part of the job. Having to squeeze my big under there and twist and contort my arms to do. Will be doing on my buddies lift from now on, will turn this hour long job into a 15min job.
04-12-2013, 03:04 AM by bpd1151
QuoteOriginally posted by shomeda$ View Post
Does the rear end use the same fluid????
Differential gets 75w-90
PTU gets 75w-140
I had mine done by my dealer who also did the B&G service to the PTU...said the fluid didn't look great and that it was a good idea to have it changed. My car had roughly 25,150 miles when the service was done in late November.
Do you have an invoice or something that provides details of the B&G service for the PTU? I'd be interested seeing as how that SHOULD get all the gunk out (with the usual caveat when NOT to "flush" something :) ). TIA!
Lotsa good info... including installing PTU drain plug in a sister thread at
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1704.0;topicseen (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1704.0;topicseen)
If you are having difficulties accessing the plug or draining the fluid, you may find this thread useful:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3360.0/topicseen.html (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3360.0/topicseen.html)
2013 Service manual instructions kindly put up by a member on here:
308-07B Transfer Case — Power Transfer Unit (PTU)
^Wow, that's fantastic. Thanks to whoever shared that and thanks for linking it. I figured that is what'd it'd come to, with the cooler equipped cars (removing cat and temp sensor). Has anybody with a cooler attempted this service, using this guide from the shop manual?
I'll be doing once it warms a tad. Thinking March or so. I'll still be under 20K miles by then. And you can bet ill be sending a sample off for UOA. Should be pretty interesting.
Quote from: SHOdded on January 13, 2015, 09:59:14 PM
2013 Service manual instructions kindly put up by a member on here:
308-07B Transfer Case — Power Transfer Unit (PTU)
Could I use the same info on my 2011 or are the instructions different?
Thanks,
Z
AFAIK, you should be able to directly use the instructions in this HOW TO. The cooling & temp sensor were added to the 2013+ models.
Ive never used b&g services before, ive found some volkswagen dealers and a fountain tire listed on the locate a dealer but are all these places like fountain tire any good at stuff like this?
Changing out the fluid on a 13+ with the Performance Package
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4951.0.html (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4951.0.html)
SHOdded
The pics for the OP are not working. Can you try re-linking?
Working on it now, seems to be systemwide ...
Additional tips from a fluid change on an MKS
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6442 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6442)
Thanks for the write-up on this. Bookmarking this for next month. I need to flush prior to road trip up north.
I forgot all about this lol. It's almost due again.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
LOL
Has anyone sent in samples for a UOA at Blackstone to check on the condition of the oil at say, 20k-30k miles? I've changed out rear differentials where the oil came out pitch black with lots of metal wear, but that was considered normal due to the nature of the environment so we can't really go by the Mk 1 eyeball...
Serious question: Even if we are running more power than stock, how would that put more stress on the PTU unless you are somehow WOT while turning (like on a road racing course or SCCA)? It looks basically like a mini open differential... But the Mitsubishi Evo guys have a similar situation with their PTU and they run either Mitsubishi oil or 75W-90 (their specs are a bit different), and they seem to agree with the shorter change intervals as well.
I think you should attempt to prove how good the ford factory fill is....its a lifetime fluid in the ptu no need to change....just like non synthetic is fine with a fram filter as is 87 octane....it would help the community if you could debunk the myth that a ptu oil change is required
Well, it seems to be a mystery because the internet claims the PTUs are failing left and right. I've read it more than once the Police Interceptor Sedan/Utility are going through PTUs very frequently even with their PTU coolers. Talking to Ford (not dealerships but people at Ford) this seems to be news to them. The UOAs should tell us whether the oil has thinned/thickened, how much metal wear there is, etc... at least give us an idea whether it is the low fluid capacity, overheating, or something else.
To me, driveline stuff is different, I typically use Red Line synthetics out of habit. A lot of the VOAs/UOAs showed Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and a few other synthetics tend to be on the thin side - and its something that's not changed as often as engine oil so I don't mind paying more. Whereas the UOAs for synthetic engine oils weren't that different from non-synthetic on the same type of engine at the same change intervals due to fuel dilution and thinner viscosity regardless of whether it was the least expensive oil or boutique engine oil.
PTU=75W-140 RDU=80W-90
Quote from: ZSHO on September 03, 2016, 04:33:43 PM
PTU=75W-140 RDU=80W-90
I'll add to this
PTU fluid -18oz 75/140
RDU fluid-2.4 pints 75/90
Did they change the spec in the 2013+ ?
I swear the 2010-12 were 75w-90 for the RDU
Quote from: glock-coma on September 03, 2016, 04:45:09 PM
Did they change the spec in the 2013+ ?
I swear the 2010-12 were 75w-90 for the RDU
Yup...roughly same time they changed the motor oil specs from 5w-20 to 5w-30. Z
Thanks for these, this helped me get started on my own fluid changes, its actually a bit easier on the smaller setup.
Oil was already burnt looking at 20k in the PTU.
75W90 is the actual fluid spec available, the OM has always called for 80W90.
Quote from: AnotherGreenFusion on September 03, 2016, 05:05:43 PM
Thanks for these, this helped me get started on my own fluid changes, its actually a bit easier on the smaller setup.
Oil was already burnt looking at 20k in the PTU.
I would not worry about the color aspect but would focus more on any sludge,gunk buildup especially around the drain plug,BTW nothing better than having the reassurance factor that it was changed. Z
Quote from: metroplex on September 03, 2016, 04:29:58 PM
Well, it seems to be a mystery because the internet claims the PTUs are failing left and right. I've read it more than once the Police Interceptor Sedan/Utility are going through PTUs very frequently even with their PTU coolers. Talking to Ford (not dealerships but people at Ford) this seems to be news to them. The UOAs should tell us whether the oil has thinned/thickened, how much metal wear there is, etc... at least give us an idea whether it is the low fluid capacity, overheating, or something else.
To me, driveline stuff is different, I typically use Red Line synthetics out of habit. A lot of the VOAs/UOAs showed Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and a few other synthetics tend to be on the thin side - and its something that's not changed as often as engine oil so I don't mind paying more. Whereas the UOAs for synthetic engine oils weren't that different from non-synthetic on the same type of engine at the same change intervals due to fuel dilution and thinner viscosity regardless of whether it was the least expensive oil or boutique engine oil.
Here is a How to remove and Install [Transfer case] PTU. Z https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8JUL90DXgdiMDRVVDhUUE9DRlN5TlAxWW5FX1picnE5SlNj/view?usp=sharing
Well, I was finally able to find the time to change my PTU on my 2011 PP @42,254 mi. The initial process of jacking up the car on all four tires, than removing the passenger's RF tire and shoving the wobble extensions (which I purchased from Harbor Freight) took about 20 mins total. Below is the picture of the plug removed. Using the MityVac fluid extractor helped tremendously. The fluid that came out reminded me of the gray graphite lube we would put on the splines of the 90KVA generators on the AC-130Us, to make removal/install easier. There was no metal shavings (lucky me) and I flushed the PTU three times per the manual. Total process took about 1 hr. Note: I use BND's 85w-140 PTU fluid based on the Tribology information from Brian @ BND Automotive.
Note 2: Thanks for the How-To, much appreciated.
Z
:thumb: Lets see how the BND stuff performs!
Quote from: SHOdded on September 04, 2016, 06:13:51 PM
:thumb: Lets see how the BND stuff performs!
I noticed that the fluid was nice and tacky, so it should hold up well.
Z
Pictures not working again?
Photobucket having an issue maybe?
That might be. Quite a bit of pictures on my Trailblazer forums are not showing up as well. Pretty sure those are Photobucket as well.
Quote from: SHOdded on November 04, 2016, 12:50:38 PM
Photobucket having an issue maybe?
I have been having intermittent issues with Imgur as of late,it looks like PB is down.IDK. Z
Looks like about half the pictures are working now
Wonder if they had disaster recovery of some kind
I'll see if I still have them in my account and upload
Not many missing but I'll just add these.
I'm pretty sure they go with this.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161105/fd875c42d50bd1ad9d3d99a58e90841c.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161105/9f6cf558ae02e22a2e44155ca265e5b4.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161105/c96fc9869f2c67e2a1372c4438857219.jpg)
That's very kind of you Glock.Z :)
Trying to clarify the amount that should go in PTU. I've seen 11oz, 18oz, and just fill till it comes out. Is 18oz essentially just filling to the hole? Thanks for the help.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The fluid capacity of the PTU is 18 oz. No telling how much is actually in there. So fill it till it just starts coming out of the fill hole.
Quote from: Justme2011 on January 17, 2017, 12:18:44 PM
Trying to clarify the amount that should go in PTU. I've seen 11oz, 18oz, and just fill till it comes out. Is 18oz essentially just filling to the hole? Thanks for the help.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
18 oz is the capacity when dry. Depending on how you are extracting old fluid, you may not get every last drop out.
The fill hole (or temp sensor port on cooled PTUs) is your true "full" mark.
With vehicle LEVEL, add fluid until it runs out of the fill hole, that is the correct level.
EDIT: Manu beat me to the punch by just a few seconds. LOL
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Boom, thx
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hello all new here but I had a quick question. I just got a Explorer sport with 44,000 mile 2014. I want to change the pdu oil. I'm a big believer in amsoil and wonder if anyone else tried it. It's my understanding it's 75 145 gear oil just wonder if this is OK to do or does Ford oil have some special additive that's required
Quote from: X sport on January 29, 2017, 11:39:33 AM
Hello all new here but I had a quick question. I just got a Explorer sport with 44,000 mile 2014. I want to change the pdu oil. I'm a big believer in amsoil and wonder if anyone else tried it. It's my understanding it's 75 145 gear oil just wonder if this is OK to do or does Ford oil have some special additive that's required
I would honestly say Amsoil & Redline to be far superior than any other brands on the market.IMHO.and your XSport will indeed thank you later and due setup an intro for yourself simply by following the below link and welcome. Z
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,14.0.html (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,14.0.html)
Quote from: X sport on January 29, 2017, 11:39:33 AM
Hello all new here but I had a quick question. I just got a Explorer sport with 44,000 mile 2014. I want to change the pdu oil. I'm a big believer in amsoil and wonder if anyone else tried it. It's my understanding it's 75 145 gear oil just wonder if this is OK to do or does Ford oil have some special additive that's required
Amsoil 75W-140 Severe Gear is what I put in my PTU @ 30,000 mi.
A change now is a good idea. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: X sport on January 29, 2017, 11:39:33 AM
Hello all new here but I had a quick question. I just got a Explorer sport with 44,000 mile 2014. I want to change the pdu oil. I'm a big believer in amsoil and wonder if anyone else tried it. It's my understanding it's 75 145 gear oil just wonder if this is OK to do or does Ford oil have some special additive that's required
Amsoil is top quality stuff. Can't go wrong with anything they sell.
I use Royal Purple for the PTU and have been happy with it. Just another option since the Amsoil isn't as easy to find.
No special additives needed. Just use 75w140.
Quote from: X sport on January 29, 2017, 11:39:33 AM
Hello all new here but I had a quick question. I just got a Explorer sport with 44,000 mile 2014. I want to change the pdu oil. I'm a big believer in amsoil and wonder if anyone else tried it. It's my understanding it's 75 145 gear oil just wonder if this is OK to do or does Ford oil have some special additive that's required
^^ One of my best friends. Happy to have him join us! I love his black Explorer Sport!
All the pics just broke in this first post for the howto, any chance of having them hosted somewhere else, or does anyone have a copy of that post PDF printed with the pics embedded?
Yeah, they want to charge $400/yr just for hosting a few measly pics. Nincompoops. I guess I will have to move the pics somewhere else or figure out how to post them inline in attachment format.
I'm pretty sure I can still access these or even might have them in my phone. I can re-download them through the Tapatalk app if needed.
I can still see the pics from the Tapatalk app.
Must be a browser thing with the broken links.
I actually relinked them from the attachments in the new post above. Works out ok. May create a thread with attached images instead and use for linking, as the broken links are discovered and repaired.
With regard to the question of whether or not to change the PTU oil and what it looked like, when I changed mine at 100K (I put in a drain plug), it was disgusting looking - thick, gooey and black and nothing like what would have gone in. I changed it about 6 times in a 2 week period and once flushed it with tranny fluid as a cleaning agent to get more of the goo out. After that when I changed at about 15K intervals it is much cleaner than it was at the initial change and no issues with the PTU at 160K.
As far as whether or not is it necessary, a friend once said "it's cheaper to change oil than parts" and since the oil was as bad as it was, a PTU oil change is cheap insurance regardless of Ford's recommendation of it being a lifetime fill. It did last through the warranty period and that is Ford's concern. As many others have surmised, I also think that since it is so close to the exhaust, this of course doesn't help the oil life. What is the downside to a PTU oil change - $20 now that I have a drain and I do it myself.
i wonder if adding a drain would actually raise the risk of failure by weakening the case....maybe it doesnt make much difference, but ya gotta wonder.
Hasn't caused any issues in any of the installations I have seen done so far in the last few years.
Someone cracked one the other day right near the drain plug. Cant remember who.
Probably caused from using a breaker bar to tighten up a bolt or the drain plug!
Sometimes doing something gently is way better than "bigger is better".
And they make torque wrenches for a reason. I change a water pump on my Envoy recently and since the bolts were going into an aluminum block all recommendations were to follow the torque specs which were very low so the bolts wouldn't strip the threads out. The PTU case is aluminum so overtightening the drain plug, if it's steel, could cause splits in the surrounding case.
IMO, as far as what oil to use, yes good oil is usually better and Amsoil and Redline, but just changing it with any 75W140 oil, especially in these PTU's, is going to do it a world of good compared to leaving the old crappy sludgy thick and gooey garbage that is probably in there now.
Yup. Except where people do put their cars though their paces, when want becomes need.
I seem to remember that my non-pp 2010 is extra hard for some reason, did we have a guide fro the 2010/no-pp ? It has been about 7/8k miles and i need to find a way to do this reliably and easily ..
This howto is based on a 2010, should be the same. No extended vent, no drain plug. There IS a howto if you wanted to add the vent tho.
The fill method through the vent tube til you see the oil come out the "Fill" plug is great for older guys per say.
I used a meat baster / injector / large syringe to fill it through my vent tube. New meaning to the word. PTU injected.
Quote from: GhostlyGrenade on August 19, 2019, 09:49:51 PM
i wonder if adding a drain would actually raise the risk of failure by weakening the case....maybe it doesnt make much difference, but ya gotta wonder.
https://youtu.be/7yLkr609bfI
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk