Just wanted to share with the community here. .
I've only had my car for a few weeks and noticed trans temps getting above 200* pretty regularly during normal driving, which made me uncomfortable. I was aware of the upgrade to the PP Aux trans cooler upgrade and had read all the write ups on them. This one caught my interest
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=5389.0 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=5389.0)
Thanks to polskifacet for shedding light on the cooler trans T-stat in the PP by-pass valve. That got me thinking . . why couldn't a guy swap just the thermostat and not add the whole Auxiliary cooler just to get temps down a bit . . . why not this guy! seemed easy enough
Bought the whole by-pass from the dealership(they don't sell just the t-stat that i could find) for $40. Removed the old T-stat and replaced with the new one from the dealership valve. This was pretty easy. just removed the driver side wheel and loosened a few bolts of the fenderwell guard and had easy access. The snap ring that holds the t-stat took a little work to get out but not too bad and didn't lose much fluid at all. Went for a drive. . . keep in mind my car at this time is bone stock.
Overall trans temps seemed about 5-10* cooler on average and peak temps reaches about 205* where they would normally get to 210-215*. I also noticed the coolant temps seemed to run a little cooler also which i didn't expect-maybe just less heat absorption from the trans fluids.
Fast-forward a couple days to today and i get my 170* coolant thermostat in the mail and swap that in. . . went to pick up the daughter from school which is about a 25min drive- all 45mph-ish roads/no highway and plenty of stoplights. Coolant temps were consistent with anyone running a 170* stat(165-185ish). Trans temps stayed cooler for A LOT longer. Hovered around 165 for a while slowly raised to about 185 by the time i parked the car. On the way home the trans temps continued to climb and reached a peak of 200* with a lot of sitting in traffic.
so summary: with the cooler trans t-stat and 170* coolant thermostat- Trans temp WILL
EVENTAULLY get to near what they are stock. Makes sense . . there's no additional cooling apparatus. BUT it takes a hell of a lot longer for them to get there. for me-nearly an hour of stop-n-go city driving. With all the stock thermostat's it would take 15-25 mins. I'll update the thread if i notice any additional results over the next couple days.
I'm sure i'll eventually upgrade to the Auxiliary cooler unit(save it for next spring/summer when it's getting hot again) but wanted to do what i could in the meantime. Also, getting a tune within the next couple weeks and i'm sure lower fan-on temps will help out a little.
I took a couple pics of the install if anyone would like to see . . but i doubt this "mod" warrants a write-up of any sort.
Just wanted to share the results for others who don't yet want to go all out for the PP upgrade
Works good :) Def post pics. What tools did you use?
Quote from: SHOdded on August 19, 2016, 08:32:55 PM
Works good :) Def post pics. What tools did you use?
Thanks, I was hoping to see a little lower peak temps but overall happy with the results for how inexpensive and easy it was.
Guess here's the half-assed how to: LOL
Here's the part you want- entire bypass valve
(https://i.imgur.com/7OSCL1kh.jpg)
Jack up car, remove driver side wheel. Remove a few of the insdide fenderwell retaining screws on the frontside of the wheel(just makes it easier to move around).
1)Remove thermostat from new by-pass valve. You will need snap-ring pliers and i also used a 90* pic tool to get undereath the ring and pry it up and out. You may need to pull up on the nipple to dis-lodge the thermostat. ****Note:I didn't take pics of this step when removing the new thermostat so thermostat pictured is of the one that came out of my STOCK 2011 trans bypass valve**** Your new one should have a different #
(https://i.imgur.com/xNhinOmh.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/9gjqvzFh.jpg)
2)Locate factory trans fluid by-pass valve(easy to find). this pic is me lying on my back with phone right behind the control arm
(https://i.imgur.com/ofESSDkh.jpg)
and closer
(https://i.imgur.com/YbFF3N8h.jpg)
No more pics sorry :( i ran out of hands while working
3)Remove factory thermostat. Same as removing the thermostat from the new valve, but a little more difficult to get your hands up there. I still used the pic tool to get the ring out.
You'll lose an oz or 2 of fluid if i had to guess.
4)Install new/cooler thermostat- I had to hold the thermostat in with a flathead screwdriver with the ring loaded on the pliers in the other hand-ready to go. Hold it in until you can position the ring inside near the groove then release the ring. pull back screwdriver to let the ring pop into place!
Replace lost trans fluid and enjoy slightly cooler trans temps!!
Doubt this "how-to" will be necessary but i just felt like it :dunno: Could help someone someday.
Definitely not a case of information overload!
"Abbreviated" images
That got me thinking...I thought that bypass valve was inside the trans. I have a block just like that on my fusion. I thought it was just a hose holder and a stay to secure the hoses....I don't have a aux trans cooler on the fusion but maybe I can swap out that part on the fusion and get a lower T stat and lower the temps in my 6F35 in the fusion....Very cool
what are you using to watch your trans temp?
Quote from: AJP turbo on October 06, 2017, 10:01:57 AM
That got me thinking...I thought that bypass valve was inside the trans. I have a block just like that on my fusion. I thought it was just a hose holder and a stay to secure the hoses....I don't have a aux trans cooler on the fusion but maybe I can swap out that part on the fusion and get a lower T stat and lower the temps in my 6F35 in the fusion....Very cool
Yeah that very well might work. I would cross reference part #'s but i imagine most of the by-pass valve blocks are the same across ford's lineup, if not the thermostat's would be interchangable at least.
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-valve-dg1z7h322a/
If you are buying the PP bypass valve, then why do you need to swap the thermostat on it? Are the PP and non PP valves different?
160 vs 140, IIRC.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on October 06, 2017, 04:21:51 PM
If you are buying the PP bypass valve, then why do you need to swap the thermostat on it? Are the PP and non PP valves different?
the only difference in the PP and non PP valves IS the Tstat. and you change the t stat because it's a hell of a lot easier than changing the whole by pass valve.
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Quote from: SHOdded on October 06, 2017, 04:47:49 PM
160 vs 140, IIRC.
the figures i've seen thrown around is
PP-160
non PP-190
don't know how we can confirm that though
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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 06, 2017, 04:53:09 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on October 06, 2017, 04:47:49 PM
160 vs 140, IIRC.
the figures i've seen thrown around is
PP-160
non PP-190
don't know how we can confirm that though
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You could confirm the temp of the non-pp (you kept it right? :-p ) by throwing in a pot of water with a therm and see when it opens. That is between your runs down the dragstrip breaking other cars souls with the AJPE30 tune...
Quote from: lamrith on October 06, 2017, 04:56:35 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 06, 2017, 04:53:09 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on October 06, 2017, 04:47:49 PM
160 vs 140, IIRC.
the figures i've seen thrown around is
PP-160
non PP-190
don't know how we can confirm that though
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could confirm the temp of the non-pp (you kept it right? :-p ) by throwing in a pot of water with a therm and see when it opens. That is between your runs down the dragstrip breaking other cars souls with the AJPE30 tune...
Actually no i didn't keep it. The parts guy at the dealership said i could return the part with the other T-stat in it and he'd just re-package it with the correct part # so the whole thing was free to me other than the 5% re-stocking fee.
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 06, 2017, 04:51:12 PM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on October 06, 2017, 04:21:51 PM
If you are buying the PP bypass valve, then why do you need to swap the thermostat on it? Are the PP and non PP valves different?
the only difference in the PP and non PP valves IS the Tstat. and you change the t stat because it's a hell of a lot easier than changing the whole by pass valve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Maybe I'm missing something which is possible. The doohickey in the picture with the 2 lines on one end is the bypass valve? Correct?
Once it's out you swap the thermostat?
If the cost is minimal like it seems couldn't you just swap the whole doohickey? Just insurance and a new bypass valve just in case.
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on October 06, 2017, 08:53:18 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 06, 2017, 04:51:12 PM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on October 06, 2017, 04:21:51 PM
If you are buying the PP bypass valve, then why do you need to swap the thermostat on it? Are the PP and non PP valves different?
the only difference in the PP and non PP valves IS the Tstat. and you change the t stat because it's a hell of a lot easier than changing the whole by pass valve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Maybe I'm missing something which is possible. The doohickey in the picture with the 2 lines on one end is the bypass valve? Correct?
Once it's out you swap the thermostat?
If the cost is minimal like it seems couldn't you just swap the whole doohickey? Just insurance and a new bypass valve just in case.
you don't remove the by-pass valve block doo hickey in the pic. it stays in the car and you just swap the cooler thermostat in. much easier than disconnecting your trans lines and replacing the whole block- that would be like removing your intake manifold to swap thermostats lol
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Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 06, 2017, 09:22:32 PM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on October 06, 2017, 08:53:18 PM
Quote from: Colorado-SHOBro on October 06, 2017, 04:51:12 PM
Quote from: Dxlnt1 on October 06, 2017, 04:21:51 PM
If you are buying the PP bypass valve, then why do you need to swap the thermostat on it? Are the PP and non PP valves different?
the only difference in the PP and non PP valves IS the Tstat. and you change the t stat because it's a hell of a lot easier than changing the whole by pass valve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Maybe I'm missing something which is possible. The doohickey in the picture with the 2 lines on one end is the bypass valve? Correct?
Once it's out you swap the thermostat?
If the cost is minimal like it seems couldn't you just swap the whole doohickey? Just insurance and a new bypass valve just in case.
you don't remove the by-pass valve block doo hickey in the pic. it stays in the car and you just swap the cooler thermostat in. much easier than disconnecting your trans lines and replacing the whole block- that would be like removing your intake manifold to swap thermostats lol
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Got it. Thanks for clearing that up for me!
I cannot find that part number with Tasca. They gave the DG9Z-H322-A. Ims it the same specs?
This part is pointing to the Escape, MKZ, etc. not the Taurus. So IDK if it will fit.
THIS PART (https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-by-pass-valve-dg9z7h322a/) FITS
Make Model Year Body & Trim Engine & Transmission
Ford Escape 2017 SE, Titanium 1.5L L4 - Gas, 2.0L L4 - Gas
Ford Escape 2016 S, SE 2.5L L4 - Gas
Ford Escape 2015 S, SE 2.5L L4 - Gas
Ford Escape 2014 S 2.5L L4 - Gas
Ford Fusion 2017 Platinum, S, SE, Sport, Titanium 1.5L L4 - Gas, 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - Flex, 2.5L L4 - Gas, 2.7L V6 - Gas
Ford Fusion 2016 S, SE, Titanium 1.5L L4 - Gas, 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - Gas
Ford Fusion 2015 S, SE, Titanium 1.5L L4 - Gas, 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - Gas
Ford Fusion 2014 S, SE, Titanium 1.5L L4 - Gas, 1.6L L4 - Gas, 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - Gas
Ford Transit Connect 2017 Titanium, XL, XLT 2.5L L4 - CNG, 2.5L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - LPG
Ford Transit Connect 2016 Titanium, XL, XLT 2.5L L4 - CNG, 2.5L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - LPG
Ford Transit Connect 2015 Titanium, XL, XLT 2.5L L4 - CNG, 2.5L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - LPG
Ford Transit Connect 2014 Titanium, XL, XLT 2.5L L4 - CNG, 2.5L L4 - Gas, 2.5L L4 - LPG
Lincoln Continental 2017 Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.7L V6 - Gas, 3.0L V6 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
Lincoln MKC 2017 Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.3L L4 - Gas
Lincoln MKC 2016 Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.3L L4 - Gas
Lincoln MKC 2015 Base, Black Label 2.0L L4 - Gas, 2.3L L4 - Gas
Lincoln MKZ 2017 Black Label, Premiere, Reserve, Select 2.0L L4 - Gas
Lincoln MKZ 2016 Base, Black Label 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
Lincoln MKZ 2015 Base, Black Label 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
Lincoln MKZ 2014 Base 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.7L V6 - Gas
I just have to change the thermostat I