Going through suspension parts while rotating the tires and noticed my driver side rear lateral link has some significant play at the ball joint and I'd like to replace it. It's a dealer only part and it costs about $150 for a 10 mks with shipping.
http://www.tascaparts.com/lincoln/mks/8a5z5a972b/2010-year/ecoboost-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/rear-suspension-cat/rear-suspension-scat/?part_name=lateral-link (http://www.tascaparts.com/lincoln/mks/8a5z5a972b/2010-year/ecoboost-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/rear-suspension-cat/rear-suspension-scat/?part_name=lateral-link)
I found for the 13+ Taurus, they've got an updated part but for much cheaper. Looks exactly the same to me. Part number is very close minus the first four number/letters. Would I be crazy to buy this part for 1/3 of the price?
http://www.tascaparts.com/lincoln/mks/de9z5a972b/2010-year/ecoboost-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/rear-suspension-cat/rear-suspension-scat/?part_name=link (http://www.tascaparts.com/lincoln/mks/de9z5a972b/2010-year/ecoboost-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/rear-suspension-cat/rear-suspension-scat/?part_name=link)
Whats your build date? Funny cause both have the same Callout name 5A972. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on March 04, 2017, 05:35:07 PM
Whats your build date? Z
Don't have a specific build date, but my parts are always "to 1/10/10".
This cheaper link fits a lot of different builds. The MKT ecoboost, Taurus, Flex, etc, but all 2013 and up. I can't see how much different this part can be from the one specifically for my car. It's an adjustable link.
Quote from: pmezo33 on March 04, 2017, 05:38:55 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on March 04, 2017, 05:35:07 PM
Whats your build date? Z
Don't have a specific build date, but my parts are always "to 1/10/10".
This cheaper link fits a lot of different builds. The MKT ecoboost, Taurus, Flex, etc, but all 2013 and up. I can't see how much different this part can be from the one specifically for my car. It's an adjustable link.
I guess for 40.00 you can just order
one and see if it fits and as mentioned above they do have the same callout name 5A972. Z
(http://i.imgur.com/tPc7QKIh.jpg)
[PDF Below].
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u3aNz_Uo3BWKp8gsZYLJKRUkD9Ziw_xwShgX85Jp9OziPRIN81ckWFVgikaBlwYvspZB-TccNmGMMd5L/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u3aNz_Uo3BWKp8gsZYLJKRUkD9Ziw_xwShgX85Jp9OziPRIN81ckWFVgikaBlwYvspZB-TccNmGMMd5L/view?usp=sharing)
All i need is one. The other side is fine. I'll probably give it a shot.
It is not uncommon to have the same physical part labeled with different numbers for different model lines and with different pricing. Some Ford parts can also be found under Mazda parts listings, and for less cost.
Looks like the cheaper part IS the updated part.
Manufacturer: Ford
Part Number: 8A5Z-5A972-B
Part: Lateral Link Part
Notes: MKS. MKT. 3.7l. Without awd, 2009-12, to 09/19/2010.
Manufacturer: Ford
Part Number: DE9Z-5A972-B
Part: Lateral Link Part
Notes: MKT. Mid version, sel. Without awd, from 09/20/2010
So i've had the new part for about a week now, but have been too lazy to put it in. Not really for the install, but having to get the alignment. So i was backing out of my driveway last night and the rear end just drops and i hear scraping. Figured I knew what the culprit was, so i put the car back in the garage for the morning.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/10qjt4k.jpg)
Yeah, that ball joint has definitely seen better days. It was completely disconnected. The new (and cheaper) link fit perfectly.
:o Blame OEM quality for the breakdown LOL!
130k miles out of that link. Can't really complain too much. At least the install was fairly easy.
I'm Glad they fit and might as well do the other side or at least order the part before they raise the price's. Z :)
So I stumbled across this thread while researching lateral links.
Found some slight play in one of mine, and went online to find a replacement for my '14 Taurus Limited
Two show up. One for $150 and one for about $40
DE9Z-5A972-B has been discontinued and replaced with : DE9Z-5A972-C which is slightly different. The 2 piece welded bushing end is now a one piece cast end.
Still looks like it will work, so going to install.
I took a crack at this and what happened to me I would dare say has never happened to anyone? Driver side rear lateral link. The nut holding th ball joint is 18mm. The bolt to the lateral link is 15mm. I jacked the car up, took my wheel off. Tried to get the nut off the ball joint...just spun....took a long prybar, put leverage on it...tightened it and backed it out. Ok good. Bolt holding the other end in the frame....bought a 1/2 extension, got my impact on it...backed it out but it almost immediately started just flipping around(bolt). Checked it..spinning freely..near 100%. Thought it was loose...tried for nearly a couple hours to get it out ...nothing. Went to store bought long needle nose pliers and long bendable magnet with a light. After another hour..nothing...bolt not free but spins.....about to give up... Tried to tighten it and have someone else do it...cant tighten it either...just spins and the tiny bit of threads it did loosen are unchanged. Still loose but not free. What the heck? Must be something in the other end of the bolt that's hurried inside the frame. Get down there and shine that tiny magnet light into the hole...can see the end of the bolt...with just the socket and extension on the bolt head, I turn the bolt and watch .....there is a nut...sitting on the end of the bolt..spinning with the bolt...and it appears the nut is encased in a molded "slot" so that it doesn't move and you can thread the bolt...well my "slot" is now deformed and the nut moves freely with the bolt and is now not a square nut, its stripped. Looking on Tasca there isnt even a part number for that nut attached inside the frame. 4 hours elapsed time...as I slent another hour trying to wedge a flat head screw driver into the "slot" to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt. Couple things come to mind......no matter what I do moving forward...how can I repair that "slot" for the nut and even replace the nut inside of it? I think that but is unserviceable and my only option moving forward is an alternative option. Trying not to over think this. I just need a bolt and nut holding the link in...very very simple. I need the inside of the frame "slot" removed at this point. I am thinking but notching another hole in the frame or making one of the various tiny openings larger...but I need enough room to get a sazall in there to lop the end of that "slot" off so I can remove the leftover bolt and nut...and simply install my new lateral link and manually hold a nut on the end of it inside the frame and get a socket on it to tighten. Until I get this sorted out my SHO is not going anywhere. Pics for reference. You'll see the backside of the inside of the frame and the "slot" I'll label that picture T at the top so you look at it properly...i posted it before and it posted upside down. I ended up cutting the bolt just after the nut to remove the lateral link and some of the bolt. The bolt is covered in red loctite.
Those are indeed new updated parts/part numbers with updated Bolts and Bore depending on your Build date! Need to make sure you get the correct bolt.
Need to add a (sleeve) inside the bore to prevent the Bolt from turning!
Don't have access to FSM until Monday! :( Im just TOL! Z
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IdtOKyVO_NQ5I6NIWSU2UvI18D894Sur/view?usp=drivesdk
https://youtu.be/QcAkCdyDdKQ
As I told you buddy I'm thinking a small window into the frame is your only option. It's hard to say without seeing it. If that doesn't work I have a Remington 870 tactical you can borrow.
Oh boy there's going to be sparks flying! One well deserved peekaboo hole coming up!
I win! That lateral link nut clearly didn't know who it was messing with. What? You don't think I'll cut you? Meet cut off wheel and sazall! You nasty little bugger....look at it...its ugly too. Glad that thing is gone to say the least. Now I can get to ordering the correct bolt per ZSHO! And I'll happily attach a nut on the end by hand and with a socket.
Big win right there! Woo Hoo!!!
Its really noticeable to put my wheel back on and lower the car to the ground....the toe is wayyy off! Is it safe to start the car and drive it 20 ft? It would be nice to clean out my garage this weekend.
Smooth 20 feet? Not requiring any real suspension travel? Then sure, safe.
Quote from: SHOdded on July 06, 2019, 07:56:49 AM
Smooth 20 feet? Not requiring any real suspension travel? Then sure, safe.
Cool! I thought so but I wanted someone with a higher IQ than me to give me the go ahead! Thanks Manu
I dont know about the IQ part lol.
Quote from: SHOdded on July 06, 2019, 09:18:06 AM
I dont know about the IQ part lol.
You're too kind. I would have said...for a low IQ you seem to manage well!
LR lateral link is now replaced and the install is complete. Couple things come to mind why I ended up with so much trouble. I probably should have not used my 1/2 drive air impact to back it out. If I could do it all over again I would have PB blasted that rear nut and turned a ratchet by hand to remove.
After getting the nut and nut casing removed I was in the process of getting ready to order the correct bolt when I decided it wasn't necessary to get the fancy OEM bolt as I had destroyed the nut. I was able to replace with whatever I wanted at this point. I went to Advance and bought a grade 8 bolt, lock washers and nuts. I brought the original bolt to match something up to it. Went home, cut the bolt down a little and installed the new lateral link. I did what mema taught us and adjusted the lateral link to pretty darn close to what the original link length was. Will be good enough to drive to get an alignment. After getting the bolt tightened to spec(1 on my impact, couple pulls of the trigger on 2) I then lowered the car slowly on a jack stand to make the suspension travel to where the ball joint slipped into place like a glove.
Unless I get a nut welded to the inside of the frame I'll leave the opening the way it is....now it is surrounded by a few other openings so I don't anticipate the one I cut to amount to any advance degrading of the metal. I also don't drive it in winter. But I will spray some fluid film in there anyway.
I would at least jbweld the nick you made, if not properly weld it. Twisting forces can get nasty.
Quote from: SHOdded on July 07, 2019, 10:42:49 AM
I would at least jbweld the nick you made, if not properly weld it. Twisting forces can get nasty.
Id like to but unless I get that nut welded in there, it would have to be cut open again to replace down the road. Although cutting it was fun so that means more fun down the road? Lol
Yeah, it would be more "fun" down the road alright :D If you put jbweld on there, you can see how it holds up over time, plus you will have the section identified should you need to remove it again.
Sounds like a plan
You can prolly be safe if you keep it open but "box" out the area with metal to reinforce it ?
Quote from: Macgyver on July 07, 2019, 08:29:17 PM
You can prolly be safe if you keep it open but "box" out the area with metal to reinforce it ?
If I can get my hands on some fairly thick metal what if I cut a "cover" to overlap the hole, and attach with self tapers? That would cover it and reinforce it? Then I could simply unscrew to remove as needed.