April 01, 2023, 09:44:08 PM

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Exterior Modifications / Re: Fresh Meat
« Last post by Dxlnt1 on March 31, 2023, 10:57:48 AM »
Firestone fire hawk 275/40-20
General Discussion / Possible RFA module/key fob issue
« Last post by Mml665 on March 30, 2023, 09:38:20 AM »
I am getting the key fob not detected error.  The key fob will not lock or unlock the doors, and the lock button on the drivers door is not working.  The passenger door lock button is working. I changed the key fob battery and still it would not start. The car will start when the key fob is placed in the slot in the glovebox. I have ordered two new keys on ebay.  Upon some googling i found mention of a RFA module, is that something i could source used? If i source a used module does it need to be programmed to the car or is it plug and play? Any other thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated.  I apologize for my previous post attempts it seems whenever I try to post using my iphone it complete post does not go through.
General Discussion / Possible RFA module/key fob issue
« Last post by Mml665 on March 30, 2023, 09:28:53 AM »
I apologize for the double post but the first post I attempted using Tapatalk app and for sone reason only a few words posted. The other day the 2011 MKS EB wouldn
General Discussion / Key Fob Issue possible rfa module
« Last post by Mml665 on March 30, 2023, 09:13:46 AM »
The other day MKS wouldn
Maintenance, Fluids, and Technical Articles / Pcv issue or turbo seals?
« Last post by 13shonuff on March 07, 2023, 04:51:15 PM »
I have a 2013 SHO. after my atp turbos blew up from turbine housing cracking and atp not servicing or selling these sets anymore I was left with $2500 oily paper weights I decided to hold off on upgrading the turbos again. I got billet chra for a set of blown stockers from work.(19 years auto tech) I had a lot of smoke which was expected, turbo blew and was down 3 qts that went directly into the down pipe and so on, it was leaking out the tail pipe going on The flatbed when it blew and then sat Al winter. Anyways after driving hard and normal it got better. Now it only smokes on decal. Bad like I just did a top end cleaning service(like sea foam). After a couple minutes of no boost driving it is gone but a hint of oil burning is still there… I go under car and investigate the new turbos.. rear right looks good, no signs of oil around turbo or in the pipes. The front left turbo is leaking around the band clamp, and the lower pipe is pooling with oil. My question how common Is it to get a bad chra, or turbo. Also could it be that I’m building up pressure in the crank case and it’s pushing oil up the return line? Or another issue with the Pcv system. When I take of the line to the Pcv valve it is oily more than normal.. I have great compression, no leaks In leak down test. Feed and drain oil lines clear. I am leaning towards a new chra because correct me if I’m wrong if I was building excess pressure in the crank case it would be pooling out of both turbos? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Car has hpfp, lpfp, Catless dp, cai, magnaflow exhaust with third car delete, plugs, thermostat, custom intercooler and piping and big, 50/50 meth, e30, 3 bar, oil separator on left bank And billet wheel stock turbos now
Troubleshooting / Re: P0016 code, But cam positions in range.
« Last post by SHOdded on March 05, 2023, 10:02:43 AM »
still not seeing the adverr values. but i checked my logs for our 2007 edge, and on cold startup or warm, vct advance should pretty much be 0. as you get moving, you will see vct advance values rise and fall significantly as you accelerate and decelerate.

again it is the error values / deviation from desired that are significant. so from the pics posted, the errors are 12.5 and 7.5 degrees? that is significant deviation, and since in a previous incident you were able to cycle the ignition to get it to behave, could very well be caused by the solenoids, wiring, or pcm.

there have been previous reports of wiring pins being loose in the solenoid connectors, so a good place to start. then check the resistance between the solenoid harness and the corresponding pins on the pcm. might be a short in there somewhere. clean and grease the pcm pins.  and check battery voltage / cold cranking amps.

i am sure the manual provides a more thorough step by step for checking wiring issues, if the tips above do not work, time to go full out.

there have been tsbs for later MYs for other model lines saying codes pop when dirt gets into the solenoids, and is fixed by cycling them 10 times iirc. have not heard it in the SHO context tho.
New Member Introductions / Re: New from the Puget sound Washington area
« Last post by PDSHO on March 03, 2023, 09:57:38 PM »
Greetings from Nebraska.

New Member Introductions / Re: SHO'Nuff
« Last post by PDSHO on March 03, 2023, 09:56:14 PM »
Greetings from Nebraska.

yes recheck the timing chain marks, make sure they line up perfectly.  if phasers are worn, that can make it difficult without replacing phasers.  even if phasers are good, sometimes you have to fiddle with the cams and timing chain to get them all to work in synchrony.

should also change the vct solenoids while in there. all metal shavings accumulate in their filter baskets and since you have to take the valve covers off anyway, do them this time around.
Maintenance and Troubleshooting / Re: That's the Brakes
« Last post by SHOdded on February 11, 2023, 04:34:03 AM »
Thank you all for your valuable input. I successfully bought & replaced the rear brakes w/a PP brake pkg. everything went smoothly.
any pics 2 share pre and post?
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