Title: Spark plug replacement tips?
Post by: Mml665 on November 27, 2022, 11:11:56 AM
Post by: Mml665 on November 27, 2022, 11:11:56 AM
I purchased new spark plugs, the expert at Autozone emphatically stayed the Delco plugs were oem. I said why not Motorcraft?
Nope he said Delco was what is called for. Now let me say two people assisted me that day in that location and both were rude. First question I have is should I exchange these Delco plugs for Motorcraft? I searched online for some instructions on plug change, however never really found any good instructions. The plugs on the front of motor seem simple enough, any tips for the plugs near the firewall? So far my research has yielded that the gap range is .30 - .37. If anyone can share a link to video or instructions that I could print out I would greatly appreciate it.
It doesn
Nope he said Delco was what is called for. Now let me say two people assisted me that day in that location and both were rude. First question I have is should I exchange these Delco plugs for Motorcraft? I searched online for some instructions on plug change, however never really found any good instructions. The plugs on the front of motor seem simple enough, any tips for the plugs near the firewall? So far my research has yielded that the gap range is .30 - .37. If anyone can share a link to video or instructions that I could print out I would greatly appreciate it.
It doesn
Title: Re: Spark plug replacement tips?
Post by: ridered74 on December 01, 2022, 12:03:29 AM
Post by: ridered74 on December 01, 2022, 12:03:29 AM
I would only use motorcraft. You can get them from any dealer. I believe the stock ones are SP580 and should be gapped at .032
As long as the coils aren't frozen onto the plugs, it's relatively easy. My first SHO I bought with 100K miles and the coils had probably never been removed, they were an absolute pain in the butt to get off. Test the front ones, if they come easy you should be fine. If they are stuck, the back ones will be a load of fun.
For the back plugs, it helps to remove the bolt holding the rear charge pipe down. It's about 6 inches behind your front furthest right cylinder. Once that bolt is off, you can lift the charge pipe off the stud and it will give you a little more room to work. A variety of different length wobble extensions will make the job a little easier as well.
When you tighten the coil bolts back down, do not over tighten them or you will strip them. The only way to fix that is replacing the valve cover, so baby strength tight is good.
As long as the coils aren't frozen onto the plugs, it's relatively easy. My first SHO I bought with 100K miles and the coils had probably never been removed, they were an absolute pain in the butt to get off. Test the front ones, if they come easy you should be fine. If they are stuck, the back ones will be a load of fun.
For the back plugs, it helps to remove the bolt holding the rear charge pipe down. It's about 6 inches behind your front furthest right cylinder. Once that bolt is off, you can lift the charge pipe off the stud and it will give you a little more room to work. A variety of different length wobble extensions will make the job a little easier as well.
When you tighten the coil bolts back down, do not over tighten them or you will strip them. The only way to fix that is replacing the valve cover, so baby strength tight is good.
Title: Re: Spark plug replacement tips?
Post by: Mml665 on December 22, 2022, 01:28:18 PM
Post by: Mml665 on December 22, 2022, 01:28:18 PM
Quote from: ridered74 on December 01, 2022, 12:03:29 AMThank you
I would only use motorcraft. You can get them from any dealer. I believe the stock ones are SP580 and should be gapped at .032
As long as the coils aren't frozen onto the plugs, it's relatively easy. My first SHO I bought with 100K miles and the coils had probably never been removed, they were an absolute pain in the butt to get off. Test the front ones, if they come easy you should be fine. If they are stuck, the back ones will be a load of fun.
For the back plugs, it helps to remove the bolt holding the rear charge pipe down. It's about 6 inches behind your front furthest right cylinder. Once that bolt is off, you can lift the charge pipe off the stud and it will give you a little more room to work. A variety of different length wobble extensions will make the job a little easier as well.
When you tighten the coil bolts back down, do not over tighten them or you will strip them. The only way to fix that is replacing the valve cover, so baby strength tight is good.
