I picked up my vehicle bone stock with 22,000 miles on the clock, due to this the car always seemed crisp in both acceleration and shifting from the moment I got it. After getting tuned and doing a couple other supporting mods the instant power and smoothness of how it came on was magnified even more. Fast forward to 10,000 miles of spirited driving and I've began to notice the car getting sluggish.
At first I thought it was due to carbon buildup so I had a complete intake manifold cleaning done via the 3M Tune Up Kit. This brought back some power but the most notable difference was swapping PTU fluids. I picked up a bottle of Royal Purple 75w140 gear oil locally for $18 and a Penzoil hand pump for $9, best $27 I ever spent. Immediately I noticed the power and crispness come back.
Now I honestly believe everyone who owns a PTU equipped vehicle needs to swap the fluid at least once a year. I remember hearing people on here state that the car is quicker in Auto v.s manual shifting via the paddles, though I recall when I first got my vehicle that using the paddle shifters made the car drive noticeably better. Not only do you have more control it just felt more powerful, and swapping fluids to the RP definitely brought this back.
So my consensus? Driving the car hard (as in any other driving style aside from grandma style) put's accelerated wear on the oil in the PTU. When I swapped the fluid, the PTU case was significantly hotter than anything else on the car (engine, down pipe cats, etc.) and upon unscrewing the fill plug there was a quarter inch of sludge/grease on the end of the plug. The fluid was pitch black and smelled horrible, almost nauseating, as compared to the sweet smelling, more fluid and translucent purple color of the Royal Purple oil. Not only was the "lifetime" fluid destroyed it was probably around 40% empty.
You have to pay to play, no other way around it. If you want to do yourself and the future owner of your ecoboost powered vehicle a favor then spend the sub $100 a year to get this done.
Royal Purple 75w140 Gear Oil = $18-20
Penzoil Fluid Pump = $9
Labor = $0-80
All you need to do this is a socket wrench and 1-1.5 feet of extensions and the items listed above. It took me 15 minutes to unplug the screw, then 5 minutes each to suck out the old fluid and pump in the new. If you buy all the items above and go to a local mechanic with a photo of the drain plug I doubt they will charge you more than $40 to perform this 15 minute service, especially since having a lift would be much easier.
The PTU is fragile when compared to the transmission. Keep it happy and enjoy your ride :D
Quote from: SHOdded on July 07, 2014, 10:46:47 AM
The PTU is fragile when compared to the transmission. Keep it happy and enjoy your ride :D
It can also confuse one to think they have transmission issues. I recently thought that there was a TSB not done or a developing issue with the transmission, completely went away after the PTU fluid swap. It make sense when you think about it, the PTU sends the power to all the wheels!
Excellent write up. Important topic for sure. And when the oil capacity of the case is no more than a tease, no wonder it overheats so badly.
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Glad to hear this. I'm at 22k now so I better change it. Do you have a picture of where it's at? Or is it just the farthest rearward gear box.
Hopefully the PTU cooler on the Performance Package helps.
I thought you have to drop the exhaust to access the drain hole? Maybe only on '13 PP SHOs? I'll add this to my 30k service intervals.
All I did was look at the photo in the how-to, its located next to the down pipe cat, and then lift the car with the included jack and removed the wheel. After that you'll maneuver the extensions through the sway bar/o2 sensor, if you get a flashlight it'll be the only bolt with the square socket type hole.
So is the rear diff the acting force that moderates awd? Does the PTU always spin? I havent lifted all four wheels off the ground to see how it all comes into play.
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 07, 2014, 03:49:07 PM
So is the rear diff the acting force that moderates awd? Does the PTU always spin? I havent lifted all four wheels off the ground to see how it all comes into play.
I believe previously it was determined that the PTU always spins and there is an electrically modulated clutch in the rear drive that engages the rear wheels based on various inputs (wheel speeds, throttle, etc...)
Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 07, 2014, 03:51:35 PM
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 07, 2014, 03:49:07 PM
So is the rear diff the acting force that moderates awd? Does the PTU always spin? I havent lifted all four wheels off the ground to see how it all comes into play.
I believe previously it was determined that the PTU always spins and there is an electrically modulated clutch in the rear drive that engages the rear wheels based on various inputs (wheel speeds, throttle, etc...)
Excellent! I was hoping for it to work that way. I wonder if it's a wet clutch of some kind in the diff. I also wonder if it can modulate which wheel gets power. So many questions hah.
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 07, 2014, 03:56:42 PM
Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 07, 2014, 03:51:35 PM
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 07, 2014, 03:49:07 PM
So is the rear diff the acting force that moderates awd? Does the PTU always spin? I havent lifted all four wheels off the ground to see how it all comes into play.
I believe previously it was determined that the PTU always spins and there is an electrically modulated clutch in the rear drive that engages the rear wheels based on various inputs (wheel speeds, throttle, etc...)
Excellent! I was hoping for it to work that way. I wonder if it's a wet clutch of some kind in the diff. I also wonder if it can modulate which wheel gets power. So many questions hah.
There is a discussion on another forum about it previously. I PM'd you.
good luck on '13 PP PTU's...... I tried and gave up. I took it to the dealer they told me it was not servicable, and to leave it alone. They suggested I go to a more performance oriented dealer. I don't know what to do. I'm at 38K miles, and mine runs strong though. Maybe the cooler on the PP helps !?
Quote from: 68_GT on July 07, 2014, 07:36:45 PM
good luck on '13 PP PTU's...... I tried and gave up. I took it to the dealer they told me it was not servicable, and to leave it alone. They suggested I go to a more performance oriented dealer. I don't know what to do. I'm at 38K miles, and mine runs strong though. Maybe the cooler on the PP helps !?
That's poor service from the dealer. The PP even has a drain plug.
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Oh and I should add the factory service manual details how to change the fluid.
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It does, it says the PTU has to be removed. I had found much of the same findings the OP had when I 1st changed mine, the PTU was much hotter then anything else under there. Even the cat was cooler then the PTU. For all you 13+ PP cars I am sure someone will eventually post a how-to. I personally don't see it being no more harder to do, then the earlier cars. But since I haven't personally done one that is easy to say.
does the explorer have a PTU? what is it?
Soon. I'm at 14.5K miles now. I plan to tackle this before the oil has degradated to the point it has sludged.
I'll throw together a how to. I have a '13 with PP.
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I put the 2013 SM section on draining and filling on my FTP.
FTP:kb9kst.com:29440. User is "Taurus Club" and password is "2013"
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Man.....70k on mine.....I'm scared
Quote from: explorergotoluvit on July 07, 2014, 11:03:07 PM
does the explorer have a PTU? what is it?
I added the same SM section for the 2014 Explorer. You have a PTU if you have AWD.
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Are there any additives that will help prevent oil degradation in the PTU?
Is there a temp sensor for the PTU?
Yes there is a temp sensor. The car becomes front wheel drive when you overheat it. Lol don't ask how I know.
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Yeah, VI improvers are added to base stock oils by the manufacturer. I think the design of the PTU is what needs improvement. It is delivering torque to the front axles and the the rear driveshaft continuously of a 4500 lb car, using only a pint or whatever ridiculous capacity of oil. What remains to be seen I think is the effect on oil longevity with auxiliary water cooling equipped on interceptors and PP trim SHOs vs. non-cooled. Water cooling isn't even necessity. If you've got decent capacity, you can rely on a cooler, or even just cooling vanes on the housing to keep things cool. I've heard it's a headache to add the aux water cooling after-the-fact. Maybe it'd be easier to plumb in an inductive auxiliary oil cooler/radiator?
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There is a procedure for the 13+ PP cars with liquid cooling. There is a fill and drain plug. According to the shop manual you have to remove the passenger cat to access the fill plug. I have yet to try this. I'm going to attempt it this weekend.
I have seen in FORScan the PID for the PTU temp gauge and the Lube life monitor (only available on 13+ PP) . I am still working on the equation for Torque Pro.
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Quote from: jmr061 on July 08, 2014, 01:10:36 AM
Yes there is a temp sensor. The car becomes front wheel drive when you overheat it. Lol don't ask how I know.
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Hah. Sounds like a good time. Does it display any warning light? Or are we just left to figure it out on our own?
Quote from: ShoBoat on July 08, 2014, 08:36:45 AM
There is a procedure for the 13+ PP cars with liquid cooling. There is a fill and drain plug. According to the shop manual you have to remove the passenger cat to access the fill plug. I have yet to try this. I'm going to attempt it this weekend.
I have seen in FORScan the PID for the PTU temp gauge and the Lube life monitor (only available on 13+ PP) . I am still working on the equation for Torque Pro.
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Would the non PP guys be able to use a PID for the temp?
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 08, 2014, 09:01:11 AM
Quote from: ShoBoat on July 08, 2014, 08:36:45 AM
There is a procedure for the 13+ PP cars with liquid cooling. There is a fill and drain plug. According to the shop manual you have to remove the passenger cat to access the fill plug. I have yet to try this. I'm going to attempt it this weekend.
I have seen in FORScan the PID for the PTU temp gauge and the Lube life monitor (only available on 13+ PP) . I am still working on the equation for Torque Pro.
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Would the non PP guys be able to use a PID for the temp?
Nope...there isn't a sensor to even read the temperature. I have a 2011 PP and it doesn't have a sensor either. The cooling and temp sensor was only added to the 2013+ PP
Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 08, 2014, 09:07:19 AM
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 08, 2014, 09:01:11 AM
Quote from: ShoBoat on July 08, 2014, 08:36:45 AM
There is a procedure for the 13+ PP cars with liquid cooling. There is a fill and drain plug. According to the shop manual you have to remove the passenger cat to access the fill plug. I have yet to try this. I'm going to attempt it this weekend.
I have seen in FORScan the PID for the PTU temp gauge and the Lube life monitor (only available on 13+ PP) . I am still working on the equation for Torque Pro.
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Would the non PP guys be able to use a PID for the temp?
Nope...there isn't a sensor to even read the temperature. I have a 2011 PP and it doesn't have a sensor either. The cooling and temp sensor was only added to the 2013+ PP
Lovely.... is it that much to as for a temp sensor in for something so fragile yet important. >:(
I wonder if they would deny a warranty claim on this part if they dig to see if it has been tuned.
To me not having a temp sensor is odd. How would it know it's overheating. Let me look into the 13 SM.
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With mine that has the cooling, I have seen temps as high as 95c (208f) when I'm driving a little harder. But most of the time is slightly below engine temps.
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Quote from: jmr061 on July 08, 2014, 10:11:18 AM
To me not having a temp sensor is odd. How would it know it's overheating. Let me look into the 13 SM.
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It could be that it's a different PID number for non PP cars. If someone with access to FORScan could take a look into the PCM and see if you get a reeding.
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I'm going to poke around with FORScan tonight and see. I might need some help finding it but I'll let you know when I try tonight.
I took a look and in several places the 2013 Service Manual states "if equipped" when referring to the PTU temp sensor. I believe it only exists if the car has a PTU cooling system.
I did see this in the service manual as well:
"Heat Protection Mode
During very extreme off-road operation, the AWD system utilizes a heat protection mode to protect the ATC solenoid (part of rear axle) from damage. If the system detects an overheat condition, it enters a locked mode. If the heat in the system continues to rise once in the locked mode, the 4X4 control module disables the ATC solenoid. Allow the system to cool down at least 10 minutes with the ignition switch in the ON position. "
Quote from: jmr061 on July 08, 2014, 10:26:13 AM
I took a look and in several places the 2013 Service Manual states "if equipped" when referring to the PTU temp sensor. I believe it only exists if the car has a PTU cooling system.
I did see this in the service manual as well:
"Heat Protection Mode
During very extreme off-road operation, the AWD system utilizes a heat protection mode to protect the ATC solenoid (part of rear axle) from damage. If the system detects an overheat condition, it enters a locked mode. If the heat in the system continues to rise once in the locked mode, the 4X4 control module disables the ATC solenoid. Allow the system to cool down at least 10 minutes with the ignition switch in the ON position. "
The second statement seems to point to temp sensor (or limit switch?) somewhere. It could be similar to the oil pressure switch, that simply reads low (or in this case hot) if it's triggered.
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Last I heard the cooling system is on there if you have either the PP or Police version. Out of luck if you have the non-PP version.
Quote from: SHOdded on July 08, 2014, 01:58:43 PM
Last I heard the cooling system is on there if you have either the PP or Police version. Out of luck if you have the non-PP version.
True, however I was thinking if there is some sort of thermal protection on the units for non pp and pre 2013 it must have a temp sensor on it? Well you would think, maybe in the rdu?
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I think there is only thermal protection on the 2013 + cooled units...aka PP. Not positive though and would be happy to be proved wrong!
Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 08, 2014, 07:12:22 PM
I think there is only thermal protection on the 2013 + cooled units...aka PP. Not positive though and would be happy to be proved wrong!
Go get it stuck and heat the heck up out of the drivetrain trying to get out. That will tell u lol
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Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 08, 2014, 07:12:22 PM
I think there is only thermal protection on the 2013 + cooled units...aka PP. Not positive though and would be happy to be proved wrong!
Thermal protection and a cooler for the fluid would be nice but honestly the best form of preventative maintenance would be to spend $100 a year on a high quality fluid swap. For a measly $100 or less a year you can have fresh, high quality gear oil and the peace of mind that comes along with it. Not to mention not only will your car perform better but <$100 is a lot better than $1,000+ for a new PTU.
How often are we thinking the oil should be changed? I'm quite hard on my car. Lots of data logs back to back at wot ect... I'm going to change mine tonight and see how degraded the oil is.
The most i can get out of this thing is like 3 ounces..... wheres it all hiding at....
I assume it just turned into a paste and its sticking to the walls.
That's not sounding to good
How many miles are on this fluid? 3 ounces? That's insane.
Certainly a possibility that it is heavy sludged. I can't think of anything else to try, other than to fill it as much as possible, run it for a hundred or two hundred miles, and then attempt to drain again.
If it really is that bad, it may take a few drains and refills to flush it out.
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Quote from: IHeartGroceries on July 09, 2014, 10:56:46 PM
How many miles are on this fluid? 3 ounces? That's insane.
Certainly a possibility that it is heavy sludged. I can't think of anything else to try, other than to fill it as much as possible, run it for a hundred or two hundred miles, and then attempt to drain again.
If it really is that bad, it may take a few drains and refills to flush it out.
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I managed to get 8 ounces out of it. Maybe 9 with what in the hose. I put a camera in and looked around. It was bone dry after the 8 ounces i pulled out.
I managed to get 10 ounces in. So idk where the other 8 ounces are supposed to go. Manual says 18 ounces.
My car is at 21,xxx right now. Sludge was thick on the cap as well.
Can you record the video?
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That's unusual. At 10 ounces, you're only at 55 percent of what the manual calls for. That'd make me a little uneasy. Are you in a position to somehow rotate the wheels/drive axles, to see if you can turn the gearsets, and maybe "burp" any air out of the case?
I'd still consider running a flush cycle, considering how well renowned these cases are for sludging.
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Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 09, 2014, 11:06:39 PM
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on July 09, 2014, 10:56:46 PM
How many miles are on this fluid? 3 ounces? That's insane.
Certainly a possibility that it is heavy sludged. I can't think of anything else to try, other than to fill it as much as possible, run it for a hundred or two hundred miles, and then attempt to drain again.
If it really is that bad, it may take a few drains and refills to flush it out.
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I managed to get 8 ounces out of it. Maybe 9 with what in the hose. I put a camera in and looked around. It was bone dry after the 8 ounces i pulled out.
I managed to get 10 ounces in. So idk where the other 8 ounces are supposed to go. Manual says 18 ounces.
My car is at 21,xxx right now. Sludge was thick on the cap as well.
This might be a silly question, but if yours is a PP car how were you able to access the fill plug without removing the down pipe?
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Quote from: ShoBoat on July 09, 2014, 11:24:15 PM
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 09, 2014, 11:06:39 PM
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on July 09, 2014, 10:56:46 PM
How many miles are on this fluid? 3 ounces? That's insane.
Certainly a possibility that it is heavy sludged. I can't think of anything else to try, other than to fill it as much as possible, run it for a hundred or two hundred miles, and then attempt to drain again.
If it really is that bad, it may take a few drains and refills to flush it out.
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I managed to get 8 ounces out of it. Maybe 9 with what in the hose. I put a camera in and looked around. It was bone dry after the 8 ounces i pulled out.
I managed to get 10 ounces in. So idk where the other 8 ounces are supposed to go. Manual says 18 ounces.
My car is at 21,xxx right now. Sludge was thick on the cap as well.
This might be a silly question, but if yours is a PP car how were you able to access the fill plug without removing the down pipe?
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My car is not a PP. In my sig I have -PP. Which I guess is not the correct way to put it lol. "-" as in minus. Maybe in my head it looked right.
Quote from: IHeartGroceries on July 09, 2014, 11:18:04 PM
That's unusual. At 10 ounces, you're only at 55 percent of what the manual calls for. That'd make me a little uneasy. Are you in a position to somehow rotate the wheels/drive axles, to see if you can turn the gearsets, and maybe "burp" any air out of the case?
I'd still consider running a flush cycle, considering how well renowned these cases are for sludging.
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I put the plug back in after letting it sit for 30 min at exactly level. Measured the hight from the ground on both sides of the car to get it there. I did not however spin the wheels but when I looked in with the camera it doesn't look as if air could catch on Anything.
After a test drive I will reluctantly pull the plug and see how it looks.
Quote from: jmr061 on July 09, 2014, 11:10:58 PM
Can you record the video?
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I can but I didn't. I was in a hurry under the car to just get it over with. I can get some next time I pull it open.
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 09, 2014, 08:43:05 PM
The most i can get out of this thing is like 3 ounces..... wheres it all hiding at....
I assume it just turned into a paste and its sticking to the walls.
This is exactly what I experienced and why I felt compelled to say something about it. I suppose Ford's idea of "lifetime" is 36 months/36,000 miles, in the manual it states the fluid should be changed for vehicles over in the Middle East doing sand driving every 20,000 miles. Most of us should average between 10-20,000 miles a year so that's where my recommendation of an annual fluid change arose from.
All you need is a good brand, Royal Purple or AMS Oil, etc. at around $20 which can be found locally (Royal Purple at least).
If the fluid is that sludgy, and you do not get a sufficient quantity out, you should
a) do repeated flushes with fresh fluid till it all comes out (maybe 2-3 times), or
c) repeat the drain & fill at shorter intervals till you start getting full volume out, or
b) run some solvent like kerosene (not too much of course; saw this done over on the Edge forum)
What kind of pump were you using, wasinger?
Quote from: SHOdded on July 10, 2014, 04:33:02 AM
If the fluid is that sludgy, and you do not get a sufficient quantity out, you should
a) do repeated flushes with fresh fluid till it all comes out (maybe 2-3 times), or
c) repeat the drain & fill at shorter intervals till you start getting full volume out, or
b) run some solvent like kerosene (not too much of course; saw this done over on the Edge forum)
What kind of pump were you using, wasinger?
I'm going to check back in 50 miles and see how everything looks. I'll pull a little oil and use my camera to see if it is any cleaner. If nessasary I'll use a compressed air solvent sprayer to clean it out.
Here is what I used to remove the oil.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/ebaqaheh.jpg)
Just drove the car. First thing I noticed is how much quieter it is in reverse. Before I could hear a mechanical gear like noise. Now it's silent. Feels smoother in drive now as well. I'm impressed.
Did you go WOT yet on the new fluid? :D
Quote from: SHOdded on July 10, 2014, 01:53:43 PM
Did you go WOT yet on the new fluid? :D
Hah I had to resist. I didn't want anything to grenade on me. I'm going to check the fluid level again then go out and play.
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 10, 2014, 02:18:53 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on July 10, 2014, 01:53:43 PM
Did you go WOT yet on the new fluid? :D
Hah I had to resist. I didn't want anything to grenade on me. I'm going to check the fluid level again then go out and play.
Your making it sound like this was a fairly easy project? How would u rate the difficulty and how long did it take?
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Quote from: jmr061 on July 10, 2014, 02:20:49 PM
Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 10, 2014, 02:18:53 PM
Quote from: SHOdded on July 10, 2014, 01:53:43 PM
Did you go WOT yet on the new fluid? :D
Hah I had to resist. I didn't want anything to grenade on me. I'm going to check the fluid level again then go out and play.
Your making it sound like this was a fairly easy project? How would u rate the difficulty and how long did it take?
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The only thing that's hard about it is getting your hands in the right place. It's a tight spot. The plug is easy to deal with. Just the process of getting the fluid out is time consuming. It took me about an hour.
Any reviews on the performance after this yet? Smoother maybe?
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 12, 2014, 11:21:10 PM
Any reviews on the performance after this yet? Smoother maybe?
Not huge by any means. Just feels quicker in a wot shift. Mostly the first 2 gears. Most likely since awd is in use.
Anything down there is nice...
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 12, 2014, 11:21:10 PM
Any reviews on the performance after this yet? Smoother maybe?
I do 80-90% highway driving. I instantly noticed less drivetrain lag, coasting feels like its gliding on ice (that new car coast). Also there seems to be less lag in the shifting of the transmission, feels much crisper.
Quote from: Spartn27 on July 14, 2014, 12:30:35 AM
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 12, 2014, 11:21:10 PM
Any reviews on the performance after this yet? Smoother maybe?
I do 80-90% highway driving. I instantly noticed less drivetrain lag, coasting feels like its gliding on ice (that new car coast). Also there seems to be less lag in the shifting of the transmission, feels much crisper.
I agree with you on the shift feel. I think your oil was worse than mine. I'm glad I did it when. I did though.
Thank you for the heads up on this. I appreciate it!
Quote from: Spartn27 on July 14, 2014, 12:30:35 AM
Quote from: SHOnUup on July 12, 2014, 11:21:10 PM
Any reviews on the performance after this yet? Smoother maybe?
I do 80-90% highway driving. I instantly noticed less drivetrain lag, coasting feels like its gliding on ice (that new car coast). Also there seems to be less lag in the shifting of the transmission, feels much crisper.
The list of to do's is growing. Appreciate the feedback.
This is an old thread but I thought I'd mention that Autoweek's review of the 2013 SHO showed a nice thermal snapshot of the PTU with and without the cooler. The max temp on the non-cooled PTU was about 284F and the cooled PTU was about 266F, and the chart showed that the cooler just lowers the temps by 16% on average which isn't a whole lot. Certainly not enough to prevent the oil from coking in the long-term. But the Fusion Sport comes with a PTU cooler and has drain/fill plugs but is a different PTU from the ones used in the Edge and D3/D4 vehicles.
A little FYI. I am sorry if this has been mentioned before. For those that want extra cooling of the PTU and rear turbo go and get a Flex (with ecoboost option) under panel. It has air scoops that will help with cooling. Not a bad upgrade for under 150 buck.
It fits the SHO?
Explorers have that scoop even without ecoboost
Quote from: TimmyATL on February 28, 2018, 08:03:48 AM
A little FYI. I am sorry if this has been mentioned before. For those that want extra cooling of the PTU and rear turbo go and get a Flex (with ecoboost option) under panel. It has air scoops that will help with cooling. Not a bad upgrade for under 150 buck.
Maybe if you could post a link to said product it would help folks out more.
Quote from: metroplex on February 28, 2018, 08:55:27 AM
Explorers have that scoop even without ecoboost
Probably due to the Police Utility.
Quote from: SHOdded on February 28, 2018, 09:27:33 AM
Quote from: metroplex on February 28, 2018, 08:55:27 AM
Explorers have that scoop even without ecoboost
Probably due to the Police Utility.
My XLT 4WD with class 3 tow PKG has it, no EcoBoost . All towin pkg Explorrs have it.
Part# is DA8Z-9910494-B is for a 13 Flex with 3.5l Ecoboost it fits with no concerns even with 2.5 inch downpipes.
Quote from: TimmyATL on February 28, 2018, 10:49:26 AM
Part# is DA8Z-9910494-B is for a 13 Flex with 3.5l Ecoboost it fits with no concerns even with 2.5 inch downpipes.
That looks like the standard shield on all SHOS
They look the same but the slots are open and the air diverter are riveted into the panel. I do not have the pictures on this computer to post sorry.
The Explorer uses an actual scoop. If you see a cutout on the front airdam on the passenger side, it has the scoop. There's no shield for the Explorer
I see the pics of your shield. They are used on Flex and MKT. Looks interesting. No insulation and has the cutouts with diverters at those 2 scoop shapes. After seeing ny Explorer without a shield, I'd probably just take it off entirely on the SHO. It just traps salt.
I live in the Deep South. So the winters are very fair and no salt. I use to run with my underbody panel off during the summer and only install it when I take road trips. But with this one having the opening and scoops I feel it is better than not having it all.
I always wondered why my SHO's shield had those 2 "scoop" shapes. Never thought to cut them open and run diverters. I always thought it was for sound insulation and air flow, as there's a huge pad on it and it does smooth out the underside. If I still had my SHO, I'd definitely try the MKT/Flex shield with the scoops.
But after crawling around my 2018 Explorer XLT, I'd probably be just as happy removing that shield altogether. The Explorer only has that front air dam/lip at least for the N/A 3.5 V6.
What about atmospheric salt in the south? If you live by the ocean, the salt spray is almost as bad (but not nearly as bad).
Under Cover ? Belly pan cover ? .Z
The SHO Under Cover is a bit cheaper with the same,replaced part number.
DA8Z-9910494-A
Part: Rear Deflector
Replaces: DE9Z*9910494*B
$103.02
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-under-cover-da8z9910494a/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9cmFkaWF0b3Itc3VwcG9ydCZpPUtEMDkwMjU1JnI9bGF5ZXJfMTUmYT1mb3JkJm89dGF1cnVzJnk9MjAxMyZ0PXNobyZlPTMtNWwtdjYtZ2Fz
$108.96
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-under-cover-da8z9910494b/?c=aT1LRzEwMDMwNSZyPWxheWVyXzE1
so.......anyone in the Seattle area willing to help me with this, haha. I have a newly acquired 2011 with 120K+ miles and this of course needs done. Local shop I use quoted around $180.
Added a hose to the breather tube to make it easy to add oil to the PTU. Suck out the old and add using the tube, when it over flows, button up.
You should do the PTU every 30k and drain the transmission by the lower mini plug. Measure carefully (4.1qts) of motorcraft LV. Don't mix brands! RockAuto the cheapest by the case. No filter required, its internal.
After seeing all the failures over the years and knowing my own strict regimen has kept mine in my 2010 robust and trouble free.....
I'd highly recommend a much more brisk interval than 30k.
Me personally, I do mine 2x per year, regardless of mileage. Once in the Spring, once in the Fall.
Now granted, that may be extreme for some, but I'd HIGHLY recommend performing the PTU service AT LEAST once per year.
Regardless of mileage.
The mere peanuts it costs in fluid, and the less than 30min time to perform it, makes it an absolute no brainer.