3D Carbon made a specific body kit for the 2010 - 2012 MKS. It was full body and came in a 10 or 11 piece kit.


It was excellent! There were pics from one member years ago who had one put on his MKS in a cinnamon color.


I've looked, but it seems 3D Carbon is no longer producing them. However, if you really want a body kit, I would give them a call and see what options they may still have.

Looks like it will be bada$$. I'm sure you wanting to drive your car after all this is the understatement of the decade...

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Great news thanks for sharing the pictures... looks like its coming along even with the setback.

It's been a few months.

So a lot of the little missing bolts and bits and pieces previously ordered since the last update have been slowly trickling their way in (no thanks to the ongoing national UAW Labor strike).

Another hiccup that was discovered had to do with the custom flywheel. When mating the custom trans, the flywheel, and the GH TC together, their wasn't sufficient clearance between the 3, which caused the TC to be locked up and not spin freely.

Soooooo...... MaxPower contacted and spoke with the flywheel vendor (Reactor Products out in Cali) and got approval to modify ever so slightly, the mounting holes on the flywheel itself, in order to provide the proper clearance (backspacing I believe was the word) to permit the TC to spin freely.

With that out of the way, coupled with the delivery of most (but not quite all) of the missing do dads, reassembly is continuing to see forward momentum.

Again, still LOTS remains to be done/accomplished, but Max Power was gracious enough to provide me with more assembly pics just this late afternoon, so I wanted to fire these off and get them uploaded for members to see.

Hope all is well with everyone. Hope everyone enjoys their weekend.

Oh, and regarding those seals on the valve covers since they were PC'd, I inquired about them and was told no worries that they've been accounted for and can be ordered.

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My 2016 Explorer is at the dealership and they're saying all my cats are bad.  I think the performance tune may have contributed, but that's another story.  They said my vehicle has 3 cats and prices are quite high.  In looking for alternatives, 2 other dealers I spoke with say my vehicle only has 2 cat converters.  I'm thinking the third is the resonator?

Besides for my personal clarification, the reason I'm asking is because I'm thinking of the with the PPE catted downpipes instead of the oem cats in the front.  But those look like they only include the front cats.  Will I need the 3rd cat/resonator?  I'm in Maryland and want to pass emissions.  Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Welcome to the madness!

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I picked up a 2016 PIU with the 3.5 EB about a year ago.  I hope to learn a lot, seems like there's a lot of information here.

Geez I have not updated this:

So I had an update a while back and apparently didn't post.  Here's my final update before I post about offering these as a mounting kit:


I've been driving around with these on for about a month now and cannot be happier with how they ended up.  I will get some pictures posted to show how everything ended up, but I'll give the jist of the "issues" I ran into:


#1 was rotor spacing, so I needed to get them moved out about 5mm, which I ended up designing spacers that necked down to engage both the rotor pilot and the smaller wheel pilot that ended up being where the rotor was spaced out to.


#2 was wheel spacing, which I found out a 15mm should work on the later "flower" wheels and even the double 5 spokes.  The earlier 10-12 will require at least an 18mm spacer.  Also add in the 5mm rotor spacer and subtract .5mm for the difference in hat thickness and it's around a 22-23mm difference of wheel/tire position with the earlier 20s.  I have them on mine and even with my coilovers set too low, I had no rub bottoming out, so that was nice.  I've since raised the car about 3/4" and it's a better ride and still looks good.


#3 and final issue was the hose:  nothing OEM will work and even finding a fitting to work on the front chassis proved to be difficult until the hose guy I use suggested a simple round one with a flange to hold it behind the bracket, but round so it doesn't need to be "clocked" any specific way.  The fitting still uses the OEM clip to hold it in place.  This worked perfectly since the caliper fittings are a L or R and would require me getting the hoses set up perfectly to minimize any static binding once installed.


I am currently getting hoses made by my local Brake Quip dealer.  Planning on the low profile, but might have to be the OEM.  These will be DOT Stainless PTFE hoses.  I can get rubber made if someone desires that, but will have to be made to order and not sure on the cost for the one-offs.  Probably the same as the PTFE lines.


Once everything is in I will make a new post with the offering and with some instructions as to what is needed and how to install.  Below are some pictures of how it looks.  The chassis fitting might be a little bit longer at the threaded part so it'll more match the oem length, but the hard lines do have a little bit of adjustment in that location since the bracket is designed to hold them there.

it is a labor of love, slow brewed indeed.

Thank you VERY MUCH to both of you. Truly appreciated.

Still working on this latest motor build. Progress is being made, but the builder's encountered a couple of issues to date.

They've resolved a few of them, and are working on others.

Fingers Crossed

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